With dual sense, if either battery has a charging voltage applied it will link the batteries.
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HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others
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Originally posted by mjrandom View PostAndrew you can get the manual crimpers for about $30.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ANDERSON-...c63129e&_uhb=1
I would and do charge the batteries separately with the battery charger (I have the 20A or 25A? Projector).
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Originally posted by LeighW View PostWith dual sense, if either battery has a charging voltage applied it will link the batteries.
Which mode is best or should the batteries be charged separately?
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That's the tool I used until I was gifted the unobtainium version.My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic
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For what its worth I have a very old cheap nasty 4 amp battery charger, I often whack that on the crank battery, when that gets up to voltage it charges the second battery at the same time, also had the camper hooked up quite a few times which is effectively a direct feed from the crank battery, all charge at the same time and if there is an issue I cant pick it.
If you want to select a voltage then just make sure its lower than the highest charge rate any of your batteries can take, it might just take a little longer that's all.
You could borrow my crimper if you want, probably cost more to get it back and forth than buying one would cost.
Cant comment on that VSR in particular, but cheaper ones don't like heat in my experience, seen a couple play up when you needed them the most in stinking hot weather.
Cheers Andrew[COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]
[url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]
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Originally posted by amts View PostAre there any issues with the Projecta charger charging an AGM and a wet cell battery? There are 4 battery types on the charger: 14.1V (GEL), 14.4V (AGM), 14.7V (WET), 16.0V (Calcium)
Which mode is best or should the batteries be charged separately?
why the chargers have a wet setting of around 14.7V anymore, most modern
AGM's and wet cells will charge quite happily at 14.2V - 14.4V, I would just leave
on AGM for both. Only time I would change it would be for a GEL or full calcium battery.
Cheers
LeighHKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others
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Originally posted by AJ120 View PostIf you want to select a voltage then just make sure its lower than the highest charge rate any of your batteries can take, it might just take a little longer that's all.
You could borrow my crimper if you want, probably cost more to get it back and forth than buying one would cost.
Cant comment on that VSR in particular, but cheaper ones don't like heat in my experience, seen a couple play up when you needed them the most in stinking hot weather.
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Originally posted by LeighW View PostI assume you your referring to charging a wet and AGM batteries, I don't know
why the chargers have a wet setting of around 14.7V anymore, most modern
AGM's and wet cells will charge quite happily at 14.2V - 14.4V,
I would just leave
on AGM for both. Only time I would change it would be for a GEL or full calcium battery.
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I only would If you suitably fuse your cable feeding your power pole as 18wg has a lower current carrying capacity than 6b&s. Your fuse will then have to be of equal or lower value than the ccc of the 18 wg cable. Amperage will also depend on the length of cable as voltage drop may be a factor and voltage is relative to amps2008 120 GX D4D with a few extras
Rig build here
[url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33115-Mattfunk-s-120[/url]
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Originally posted by Mattfunk 120 View PostI only would If you suitably fuse your cable feeding your power pole as 18wg has a lower current carrying capacity than 6b&s. Your fuse will then have to be of equal or lower value than the ccc of the 18 wg cable. Amperage will also depend on the length of cable as voltage drop may be a factor and voltage is relative to amps
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Originally posted by amts View PostMy concern is whether the additional 18awg wire can fit into the SB50 terminals which are suited for 6B&S.
The solder will wick up both cables and the solder, while having a slightly higher resistance, because it thickens the cable, the 6B&S will still have the same or marginally better current carrying capacity.
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Hi Amts , from looking at the specs on the SB50 you may not fit both cables in. I don't have a part no of my plug but the tunnels took up to 16mm2 cable. These size Anderson plugs would fit both cables. I'll go & have a look if part no on plugs as I also made a 5m 16mm2 lead which is great to connect between trailer and vehicle when parked beside trailer when unhooked as whether solar or 240 you can charge crank aux & camper batteries at the same time .2008 120 GX D4D with a few extras
Rig build here
[url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33115-Mattfunk-s-120[/url]
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