Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Leaking transfer case seals on 2007 Prado 120?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Leaking transfer case seals on 2007 Prado 120?

    Hi all, have looked on the 'drivetrain' and 'general' section for any existing threads but couldn't find any information. Also have submitted a search using terms, "transfer case seals 120"- no luck either.

    I'd appreciate any info/insight on the leaking seals on the input and output transfer case shaft seals. How long should they last, are there others who are experiencing leaking, and most importantly are they easy to replace by a non workshop mechanic (i.e. are special tools required)?

    Just a bit of background info, I had the output shaft seal replaced under warranty at 90,000km after leaking badly. Have just returned from a trip having completed 7200km and both seals are now leaking/weeping. I did a pre-trip inspection and noticed the output shaft seal was leaking again. I kept an eye on it during our trip away and was prepared to top up with the correct oil as I didn't have time to change the seals before we went away. The car km are now just over 114,000km. I'm very surprised the output shaft seal has gone again and will be calling the dealership to query the warranty on the output seal. I'd expect that it should be replaced even though the car has now done more than 100,000km the failure has occurred within 40,000km and less than 12 months.

    Since the output seal replacement, the car had done most of it's km on sealed roads, and nothing extreme off road, just gravel outback roads. Our recent trip involved around 2,500km on dirt roads (average 80-90km/h) and the remainder on bitumen (average 120km/h on bitumen)

    Any insight regarding the seals, failures, replacements etc would be much appreciated.
    Cheers,
    Tim
    2007 GX, Gold colour, Koni raid shocks, Kings progressive springs, polyair red in rear springs; 2" lift; MT ATZ 5 rib tyres. RanOx unit, home made rear storage system.

  • #2
    I had mine replaced at the 80k service. Cost $125 and took 1 hour to do. It isn't hard. There was a thread that had a good how to here but I can't get to it anymore either. Parts were on around $35-$40 then add oil and labour.

    It is a bit fiddlely and messy but an easy job. Small thread here
    [B]Cheers
    Bomber[/B]
    '07 Silver Ash GXL D4D manual, 2" lift (Ridepro Bilstiens), Polyairs, Colour coded ARB Deluxe Winch bar, Safari Snorkel, Toyota Tow Bar, Sandgrabba Mats, Michelle's Sacs seat covers, Rhino Aero Bars, Rola Vortex Roof Rack, ARB dual Batteries, 40L Engel

    Comment


    • #3
      I have just replaced the seal on mine.

      I wouldn't be driving to much further without checking the Oil, The transfer case only holds 1.4 litres.

      The whole process took about 45mins and was made a lot easier with my rattle gun, I dont think I would have gotten the main nut off the output shaft without the gun.
      just make sure you put marks on everything so that it goes back in the same spot and dont over tighten the output shaft nut when putting it back together, try and do it up to the same position (if that makes sense).

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for replies so far. When the output seal failed I suspected it may have been from driving down the Birdsville track last year. There were a plenty of water crossings and lots of mud on the track which I thought may have worked it's way around the seal to chew it up. Now it's failed again and the input shaft has gone too after not doing that sort of driving again i'm surprised and am beginning to wonder if the shaft may have score marks (I'll check this when I replace the seals). I had hoped this wasn't the case and thought other PP'ers would undoubtedly have some experience in this matter, thanks for replies so far.

        I have a motorbike that has a clutch shaft seal problem. The shaft wasn't chromed/hardened enough, the seal wears and then it all starts to leak. It was a design fault by the manufacturer (European brand) that was rectified by them on subsequent models so I was initially thinking it might be an ongoing problem. My other concern was buying the vehicle with 80,000km on the clock I didn't know it's history, it has log book servicing so that was pretty much all I could go on.

        Before heading away, I checked the service book and know it holds 1.4 litres; when you see it flung out on the underside of the body it looks a lot more than it really is. I'm pretty good on maintenance so will have a go at this repair myself.
        Cheers,
        Tim
        2007 GX, Gold colour, Koni raid shocks, Kings progressive springs, polyair red in rear springs; 2" lift; MT ATZ 5 rib tyres. RanOx unit, home made rear storage system.

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi all, thanks to Bomber and others for helpful info. I decided to have the seal installed by my Toyota dealer as the other one (which was leaking after having been replaced) was covered by warranty. Cost $140 and is covered for 20,000km or 12months. I'll be keeping an eye on it and if it goes again at least it's covered by the dealership. I asked them to check the shaft for scoring as it was strange the first seal had failed so quickly. It seemed to be ok and may have not been seated properly the first time.
          All good now, Cheers, Tim.
          2007 GX, Gold colour, Koni raid shocks, Kings progressive springs, polyair red in rear springs; 2" lift; MT ATZ 5 rib tyres. RanOx unit, home made rear storage system.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by tj5233 View Post
            Thanks for replies so far. When the output seal failed I suspected it may have been from driving down the Birdsville track last year.
            I blew my transfer seal on my way back after crossing the Simpson this time last year... Noticed a slight oil smell just out of Marree, but though it might be because of the freshly tarred road. By the time I got to Leigh Creek and had a proper look, the transfer had emptied itself all down the undercarriage! At that stage my D4D was just over 2yrs old with about 28,000kms on it.

            Luckily a warranty job for me.

            Cheers,
            AJ
            [i][size=2][color=#008000]2008 D4D GXL Auto [/color]- [u]BLACK[/u][/size]
            [size=2][color=#0000FF]- ARB Deluxe Bullbar - TJM Airtek Snorkel - Pirhana Dual Battery - BFG A/T's - Waeco 60L - Canvas Seat Covers - LED Spotties - Bilstein/Ridepro Lift - TJM Bashplate - GME TX3440 UHF - Rhino Roof Bars - Rooftop Tent & Awning - Poly-Airbags - ScanGauge II - Beaudesert 2.75" Exhaust - ARB Twin Motor Compressor [/color][/size][/i]

            Comment

            canli bahis siteleri bahis siteleri ecebet.net
            mencisport.com
            antalya escort
            tsyd.org deneme bonusu veren siteler
            deneme bonusu veren siteler
            gaziantep escort
            gaziantep escort
            asyabahis maltcasino olabahis olabahis
            erotik film izle Rus escort gaziantep rus escort
            atasehir escort tuzla escort
            sikis sex hatti
            en iyi casino siteleri
            deneme bonusu veren siteler
            casibom
            deneme bonusu veren siteler
            deneme bonusu veren siteler
            betticket istanbulbahis
            Working...
            X