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  • Thanks. Torque wrench has both and I was using the nm. Reckon I might borrow my sons torque wrench that I gave him and check the tightness as I gave him a better one than I have myself.
    Cheers.....Wayne
    White 2012 GXL 150 TD Auto. Work in progress. Aiming to spend less than when I kitted out the 120!

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Dusty74 View Post
      Hey fido666,
      As already answered, yep one 'nut on wire' for each side. I've got an ARB bar which had a nut on a length of flat bar that is replaced by this nut. I found the easiest way to get this out is to work it back to were the chassis rails drop down and turn in a bit. There is a hole here which, with the change in angle of the chassis rail makes it relatively easy to remove. I might add it took me about 45 mins to work this out on the first one, but once I did, the second one only took a couple of minutes.
      Another thing to, just fit the new nut first, then work the wire so it breaks off, the use this wire to fashion a hook to fish out the old nut. Sounds fiddly, and it is, but beats taking off the bar!

      Good luck,
      Dusty
      I found this thread very handy when installing some RoadSafe recovery point to our prado with ARB bar. I've included two photos (sorry about the quality) to indicate where I recovered the ARB bolt that falls into the chassis. Although Rusty has a pic of the redundant ARB nuts I didn't realise they had the long 'tail' on them. I recovered them from the same hole where you slot the Roadsafe nut through. Similar to Rusty, took a while on the first one, second was much quicker. Tools used : the wire tail to fashion a hook, a magnet on extendable pointer, needle nose plyers, a number of choice swear words. I worked the old ARB nut back along the inside of the chassis, then when the end was near the hole grabbed with plyers and worked in out of the hole. Took around 3 hours with a mate but we weren't rushing.

      Hope this helps others on this task.

      Cheers,
      Leigh
      Attached Files

      Comment


      • Fitting RoadSafe recovery points with 2014 Facelift TJM T13 bar

        Hi folks,

        A few points I learned having just fitted RoadSafe recovery points in conjunction with a 2014 Facelift TJM13 bar.
        • TJM use a single backing plate for the two rear-most mounting bolts;
        • RoadSafe bolts are too large to screw into the TJM backing plate
        • The TJM backing plate is (from what I can tell) too large to extricate from the chassis unless bulbar is removed
        • Retain the TJM backing plate for rear-most bolt, but use the RoadSafe nut/plate at the other point where the recovery point is attached;
        • The TJM plate must be rotated to make room for the RoadSafe nut/plate


        See pics for further explanation:

        http://s27.postimg.org/cznoh4z0z/First.jpg
        http://s28.postimg.org/u9usnoc7h/Second.jpg
        http://s13.postimg.org/dmgay5q13/third.jpg


        A couple of points:
        Firstly, I'd like to thank Amanda at TJM Brendale for explaining the above to me. I went into their store on Saturday morning seeking advice. They rang their guru Amanda who was not working that morning but said she would be driving by soon so would drop in to talk to me - in her own time. Great customer service!

        Final point. I really question whether these recovery points add much capability beyond the factory suppled towing hooks! Having now seen the factory points up close I can attest that they are quite beefy units. Now I'm no engineer (actually I am, but this isn't my field) but I would say that the towing hooks would do the job most of the time for most people (See Off-road Driving Owner's Manual)

        So if you think that you need RoadSafe points installed before you take your family for a run up the beach (like I thought) you are wrong IMHO... but do make sure you have 2 bow shackles and an equaliser strap.

        In closing - whatever happens to be the maximum force that the factory towing points can handle - I wouldn't want to be putting that force into my chassis, regardless of through what points the force was transmitted.

        Comment


        • In your third photo, have a look at the spring washer in the top bolt - it has deformed badly. You need to replace that and retorque the bolt (and check the others).

          The factory "tie down" points are certainly better designed and constructed than the early 120's but you still have a moment of rotation at a point above them which could lead to failure. Adding the roadsafe or other similar designed points is spreading that stress significantly further along the chassis. There's a good video of a 120 in the desert with a "front end removal" that has been posted many times now on this forum.
          Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

          Comment


          • Originally posted by adrian5800 View Post
            In your third photo, have a look at the spring washer in the top bolt - it has deformed badly. You need to replace that and retorque the bolt (and check the others).

            The factory "tie down" points are certainly better designed and constructed than the early 120's but you still have a moment of rotation at a point above them which could lead to failure. Adding the roadsafe or other similar designed points is spreading that stress significantly further along the chassis. There's a good video of a 120 in the desert with a "front end removal" that has been posted many times now on this forum.
            We'll spotted Adrian. Happened to me both sides. They are definitely getting replaced.

            Not sure what I'm doing wrong to have the spring washers fail like that? Can anyone suggest?

            If the Roadsafe point was welded into position I would be entirely confident that , as you say, it would brace that corner nicely and support that lever arm you mention. Instead of welded though it is held by the squeeze between the ends of the bolt - good reason to have all your washer working right I wonder if the squeeze can handle "front end removal" forces?

            Comment


            • The TJM plate and the Roadsafe plate are tapped the same diameter but different pitch. The Roadsafe is metric fine and a grade 12.9 bolt is supplied. You can get this grade 12.9 bolt in coarse thread and use the TJM plate. The lock washer is picking up the head of the bolt and failing. Either get better lock washers or forget about the lock washer and just use loctite.
              My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

              Comment


              • Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
                The TJM plate and the Roadsafe plate are tapped the same diameter but different pitch. The Roadsafe is metric fine and a grade 12.9 bolt is supplied. You can get this grade 12.9 bolt in coarse thread and use the TJM plate. The lock washer is picking up the head of the bolt and failing. Either get better lock washers or forget about the lock washer and just use loctite.
                I my case the TJM bolts and plate were definitely smaller diameter, approx 9mm vs 12mm of the Roadsafe set. I guess that TJM could have a bunch of different sizes they uses.

                Ditch the spring washer and use loctite - nice and simple - I like it. Thanks.

                Comment


                • Hi guys, with my recently fitted TJM bar, there are bash plates/wings under the bar that seem to block access to the mounting area for recovery points.
                  Have you removed those or cut them ?

                  Thanks

                  Comment


                  • The wings had to come off to fit the points on my TJM T13 bar but they are just held on with bolts, no cutting required.

                    Comment


                    • thanks fido666. I guess I meant cut them to put them back on around the recovery points.
                      or did you leave them off ? I can't recall what they cover, are they worth having on ?

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by maulbeagle View Post
                        thanks fido666. I guess I meant cut them to put them back on around the recovery points.
                        or did you leave them off ? I can't recall what they cover, are they worth having on ?
                        The plates come off to fit the Outback recovery points and then go back on. No cutting required.

                        Comment


                        • Thanks REV. Are the 'Outback' recovery points the same as the 'Roadsafe' ones ?

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by maulbeagle View Post
                            thanks fido666. I guess I meant cut them to put them back on around the recovery points.
                            or did you leave them off ?
                            Well I have the yellow recovery points made by RoadSafe and they didn't require any notching out or cutting of the wing plates to refit them after installing the points. They don't intefere with the TJM under radiator plate either.

                            I can't recall what they cover, are they worth having on ?
                            The wing plates just cover the side bits of the bar and yes they are worth having on to protect the underside of some parts like the washer bottle and lights on the bullbar. The center plate under the radiator is a must.

                            Comment


                            • Hi all
                              Do the roadsafe fit a 2014 gxl with factory bar without problems?
                              I tried to find it in the thread but all i see is tjm and arb bars being mentioned.

                              Any info would be great before i buy some.

                              Thanks.

                              Comment


                              • Mine are fitted to a factory bar but it is the 2013 GXL model. I had to take the spacer off the bullbar and use it to level the recovery points.

                                Comment

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