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front and rear diff oil changes

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  • #16
    thanks mate
    Prado 2008 d4d Auto, Redarc dual battery, 285/70/17 mad hogs, ironman bull bar, Mako TDS 12,000Lb Winch with synthetic rope, MAXTRAX on TraxRax, AJ120 Rock sliders , ironman bashplate, Front and rear ARB air locker,3'LEGENDEX EXHAUST SYSTEM

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    • #17
      Originally posted by MickL View Post
      49 Nm front and rear, drain and fill.

      Mick
      Might have this wrong but thought Front fill and drain was 65Nm?
      2004 GXL V6, 5 Sp Auto

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Talktheroo View Post
        I forgot. 24mm socket, 1/2" I reckon, with a breaker bar. One of those cheap torque wrenches are the go because of the ratchet. 10mm hex socket for the two front plugs, fellow members.
        The Roo.
        Can't stand those hex plugs on the front diff. they always seems to get slightly damaged during removal then over time the hex just strips. For some reason they are often super hard to get out even when torqued to spec. I've already had to replace mine. Anyone found an alternative plug with a decent nut fitting that won't break down under regular service?
        2004 GXL V6, 5 Sp Auto

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Offroader View Post
          Can't stand those hex plugs on the front diff. they always seems to get slightly damaged during removal then over time the hex just strips. For some reason they are often super hard to get out even when torqued to spec. I've already had to replace mine. Anyone found an alternative plug with a decent nut fitting that won't break down under regular service?
          I've been trying to find an alternative but I think the issue is the space around the plugs??? Can't remember now.

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          • #20
            Changed my rear diff, no issues, but I used an old tomato sauce bottle (Cleaned) get the oil in the diff. Front Diff, however, I discovered that that when I removed the bash plate the front diff drain hex bolt was totally stripped. Any ideas on how to get it out? I bought new filler and drain plugs from Toyota.

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            • #21
              Try tapping in a hex socket with a hammer. You might be lucky and only have the first few mm of the hex rounded. The plugs get tight if when they were opened and the copper washer was re-used or new one over tightened, the copper has flowed round the first thread and expanded into the casting where the plugs head sits.

              If this fails, you may need to weld in an allen key then put a breaker bar on it. Or may be try an air chisel.
              2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

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              • #22
                for these hex plugs i use a ball peen hammer
                first use the flat side, a few hits first will help loosen any compounds in the threads and squashes the washer to take the pressure off
                then a few with the ball side
                the line up the allen key and use the hammer to drive it in
                while putting pressure on the allen key keep tapping the allen key with the hammer
                and it should just come undone without rounding

                if you have already rounded same method just use the ball side to squash in the edges, hit the key in then keep tapping the key while under pressure
                2008 Dune D4D manual GXL update - with lots of fruit !! + Roma Razorback Off Road Van

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                • #23
                  I would use a punch to knock a hole around the outside then using that hole use the punch to knock it around. Done it plenty of times at work most successful for me

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                  • #24
                    Thanks guys, from the build up of dirt around the diff drain, I think it may be leaking anyway. I'll try your advice. Beats me why Toyota would use a different design to the rear diff.

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                    • #25
                      On my 98 Prado I welded big nuts onto the plugs. Easy fix.
                      Dave
                      Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
                      Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

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                      • #26
                        You'll find that the front and rear diff filler bolts are the same size. I used a rear filler bolt on the front filler. Keep the hex drain bolt though as it has the magnet to catch any stray metal.
                        04 GXL - Red Centa dual battery, Alloy B/bar, BFG AT's, Rhino Rack commercial bars x 3, GME TX3540, TJM roof cage, Outback Ideas recovery points, LHS rear drawer, 2" Dobinsons/Bilstein lift, ARB CKMA12 air compressor, CoilRite airbags, ARB 2.5m awning, MCC Dual Wheel Carrier, Eagle Eye headlights with 55w hid lo beam.

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                        • #27
                          Thanks for the advice, in the end it was a garage job, but it's running now. As I had the filler and drain plugs replaced I should be able to do it myself next time.

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                          • #28
                            Is it hard work to get to the front diff? I'm due for gear oil change and was considering doing it myself, If I get some spare drain plugs/nuts and some LS90, anything else to remember? cheers
                            120 GXL, D4D Auto 2007 - ARB Deluxe Bar, Warn Tabor 10K and Rec Kit, Safari Snorkel, GME UHF, BFG AT's, Lightforce Spots, Eclipse Sat Nav, Waeco CF40, Optima D27, Redarc Sbi12, Leigh W Diode, Voltmeters, Rhino Pioneer platform, ARB compressor, DIY Trek Table & drawers, HiLux Jets, Breathers, Water pump, rear custom fused electrical system, camp lights, LED's, ARB Roof top tent Annex and Awning, Maxtrax, Hi-Lift, Shovel. [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27929-DJ-D-s-D4D-120-GXL"]My Build Thread[/URL]

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                            • #29
                              Yeah, your sense of humour
                              Marc, 2003 Grande V6, Just a Bit of Stuff Done..........Work in progress.
                              [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?21168-1Coolbanana-s-Grande-Build-Up]1Coolbanana's rig build up[/url]

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                              • #30
                                Lets get technical

                                IF YOU HAVE ARB AIR LOCKERS.

                                I know some old posts here, people doing the wrong thing, just wanted to let ya-all know something more.

                                Arb recommend against using LSD oil in their lockers, they say the additives cause problems with the seal, yes the seal
                                They use & recommend castrol multitrax. I believe nulon smooth shift 75w 90 would be good too.

                                Nothing wrong with the front diff nut set up, it's people using the wrong tools the wrong way & over tightening is the issue.
                                A good 10mm hex socket 1/2 drive is required. If its been pre butchered, you need to be creative & a new plug.

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