The 150 series Dual Battery Guide

[Benny's Tuff* 150 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Benny's Tuff* 150]

Spent last night reading through the 30 odd pages here and Im not sure if Im more confused or informed.

I have a 2015 D4D and I want to fit up dual batteries, uhf, tow controller, lightbars in one hit. I would like to incorporate volt meter, usb out puts, 12v outputs, and 240v output, dedicated hard wired engel lead and an anderson plug for solar charging as well as one for output.

Any information/links on the latest and greatest options for some of these things would be much appreciated.

Would also be great if anyone could just confirm the basic gear I need on the dual battery side.. ie; good quality tray and battery (part number) that avoids bending aircon, redarc smart solenoid (part number), booster fuse..

Hi all, my first post.

Looking to pretty much do the same as above. Have the older shape 2013 GXL. Looking to install a DBS. Have been told Optima are on one of the best and after reading through these posts that opinions seems to concur. Although I was a little confused as to the difference between red and yellow. Yellow seems to be the popular one, or most referred to. I live in hot NW Qld so wasn't sure which one wouldn't suit the hot dry conditions.

Saw an image of a battery volt meter with 3 x 12V plugs, 1 of which I think was for an Engel. To which I intend on buying this year. I believe the 80L fridge/freezer said it didn't draw more 4.2A. I have plenty of LED/HID lights I wish to install mainly for driving and some for camping. I do intend on buying an air compressor, though not interested in buying lockers just yet as I don't intend on doing any major off-roading.

I have noted that LeighW does sell DBS components, and it seems generates good feedback with the quality of his product at a reasonable price. I haven't heard much about TJM or other frequently referred to companies other than ARB (which everyone seems to allow autocorrect to change it, or I've become dyslexic from reading it so many times).

So in terms of manufacturer or self install, I'm open for suggestions. I'm not electrical savvy, but I have been reading and playing with my old car to know a little. I do have a local bloke who is meticulous and could help me install it in drinking currency. I would consider doing it myself (with assistance) if I could save (say 20% of total cost) by buying parts through individual resources (eBay, or 4wd stores).

Alternatively, as they say, time is money. So I could buy a kit and get the local 4wd store to fit it, but where's the fun in that. Atm I have 2 quotes (so I have an understanding of anticipated costs), 1 from TJM and one from ARB (well there brochure with prices). Most seem to encompass what's been suggested already, I guess I'm trying to ask is there a big enough cost incentive to DIY? Whether buy a kit, or buy bits of components from everywhere and DIY install?

Sorry if I've dribbled on, just trying to clear up some things that I am not sure have been entirely transparent to newbies :-)

Cheers,
Ben

[skips80 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close skips80]

Christ theres some heated stuff on here about batteries!! What happened to just connecting up a coupla batteries, plugging in the engel and enjoying a coupla frothy ones after a long day of adventuring.

I've just bought a 2011 GX and am a little disappointed to read that the Fullriver 105Ah I was hoping to pull out of my hilux and stick under the bonnet of the prado might be a tad too heavy (30kg) with the ARB battery trays only being rated to 21kgs.

Anyone got a heavy battery under the bonnet?

Cheers

[GEEEXL Member Find all posts View Profile Close GEEEXL]

looking for a recommended sparkie in adelaide to sort out my 2014 150
I am a fussy mofo and want a neat job that looks as factory as possible

G

[brogers Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close brogers]

Christ theres some heated stuff on here about batteries!! What happened to just connecting up a coupla batteries, plugging in the engel and enjoying a coupla frothy ones after a long day of adventuring.

I've just bought a 2011 GX and am a little disappointed to read that the Fullriver 105Ah I was hoping to pull out of my hilux and stick under the bonnet of the prado might be a tad too heavy (30kg) with the ARB battery trays only being rated to 21kgs.

Anyone got a heavy battery under the bonnet?

Cheers

Hi Skips, I had a heavy 28kg battery (AGM) under the bonnet in a 2010 GXL and I cracked the inner guard..which is a pain to repair. I won't be putting a heavy battery under my Prado bonnet again... I know in later models (perhaps from the "facelift" version onward) have beefed up the guards.. somewhat, but some folk are very cautious about putting a heavy battery under the bonnet..especially if you travel off road or over corrugations..and no matter what battery you use under the bonnet, I recon you can reduce the risk of a cracked inner guard if you have a battery tray with an upper "brace"...(I know the TJM battery tray has an upper brace, so have a look at an image of a TJM tray to see what I mean)...the upper battery tray brace seems to help prevent the battery rocking slightly backwards and forwards... which seems to contribute to the guard cracking. I guess it all depends on battery weight, how much and what sort of off road driving you do, and whether or not you are prepared to get the inner guard repaired....let us know what you end up doing.

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

I have the patch kit on both guards and no problems with batteries It's just disappointing that they aren't strong enough straight from the factory. Some European models come from the factory with dual batteries due to low temperatures.

[nanbar Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close nanbar]

Got quoted (by a reputable 4x4 place here in Melb) $1700 for a Red Arc set up, incl battery, holder, two outlets in the rear, voltage read out, special set up because of the 150 alternator (lost me with the tech stuff). Thoughts on the price? I wouldn't dare attempt it myself because as I have stated before, I am an electrical retard.

[skips80 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close skips80]

Cheers Brogers, Ill take a look at the TJM gear and will likely downgrade the battery to save the hassle of cracks later.

[InnerCityBoy Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close InnerCityBoy]

Thoughts on the price?

Depends what a 'redarc' setup means - a redarc isolator, or a redarc DC charger? And what size / type of battery?

If just an isolator and regular battery, it sounds expensive ... I got a DBS (redarc isolator), 75 Ah battery, rear sockets and a tow pro brake controller supplied and installed for a good $500 less than that in Sydney.

Mind you, the work was dodgy ... but that's another story

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Got quoted (by a reputable 4x4 place here in Melb) $1700 for a Red Arc set up, incl battery, holder, two outlets in the rear, voltage read out, special set up because of the 150 alternator (lost me with the tech stuff). Thoughts on the price? I wouldn't dare attempt it myself because as I have stated before, I am an electrical retard.

Post up an itemised list of bits. Very hard to tell without that.

[drivesafe Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close drivesafe]

Post up an itemised list of bits. Very hard to tell without that.

There can be a huge difference in what you pay for in a kit or a full installation.

For instance, some kits have a few bits of wire and an isolator and this is what the sell constitutes as being a dual battery kit, but you need to go and buy lots more hardware before you can actually fit the kit. While other kits have everything you need in one go yet are the same or slightly dearer price but you save a fortune by not having to source any additional parts.

Full installations can be done with grossly undersized cabling ( wire in many cases ) fitted in a rough way from one installer, yet for around the same cost from another installer, you get correct sized cabling, fitted in split tube for better protection and so on

Same prices but totally different end results.

[nanbar Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close nanbar]

Post up an itemised list of bits. Very hard to tell without that.

It was over the phone, I will go in and talk them at some stage and get a itemised quote. HE said the battery was a deep cycle battery, cant remember the brand. He sad something about the red arc thingy being able to be changed (ie setting) depending on the type of battery. My mate got his 200 Series done there and he is wrapped with the job, he got an optima battery on his.

[5logs Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 5logs]

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[Nik83 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Nik83]

Hi there!

What sort of clearances does an agm battery require if I were to put one in the back of the Prado? Ie. Does it need breathing space?

Does an isolator and voltage boosting diode charge the a 170ah battery as well as a 55ah battery (given more time)?

I'm contemplating putting a kickass slimline AGM battery in the back when I build my drawer system.

http://www.australiandirect.com.au/buy/kickass-120ah-slim-deep-cycle-agm-battery/KA12120Slim

[P W Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close P W]

Hi Nik83,
I am doing the same thing with the Kickass 120Ahr slime line also. Just had an ORS system installed and am trying to get a cradle built to hold the battery. No spacing needed for the battery. You could lay it on it's side if necessary. It will charge OK from the Alt., just as you said, will need a little more time.

Phil

[Nik83 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Nik83]

Cheers Phil! Great to know!

Hi Nik83,
I am doing the same thing with the Kickass 120Ahr slime line also. Just had an ORS system installed and am trying to get a cradle built to hold the battery. No spacing needed for the battery. You could lay it on it's side if necessary. It will charge OK from the Alt., just as you said, will need a little more time.

Phil