Dual Battery TD 150 GXL

[MNK Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close MNK]

Brogers,
Now that makes some very valid points and I believe now that I really dont need a dcdc, just go with solar when on site. Do you leave anderson plug in & use AUX batt & camper batt or just run purely off camper batt when camping?? I will mainly use the batt in camper for water pump to sink, led light srips (5 x 1200mm), and fridge. i guess I have a fairly heavy requirements. what sort of solar should I run?? 120w+???
P.S: sorry fellas for getting off dual batt set-up a bit for the 150!!

[brogers Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close brogers]

Non Genuine Anderson Plugs....make of it what you will, but worth thinking about perhaps?

http://andersonpower.com.au/fake-and...os-ezp-19.html

[Coolcol Moderated member Find all posts View Profile Close Coolcol]

Another Duel battery set up.;

Hi all, I have read and read and in the end I did:
I installed a 70ah Fullriver AGM under bonnet to run the 40Lt Engle fridge and some LED lights max 2-3 day is all I need.
Used a voltage sensitive relay to do the auto isolation cuts in at 13.3 volts (opens) cuts out at 12.8 volts (closes). Put this on the passenger side to reduce the amount of live cables when its turned off and the supplier said put it near the cranking battery. (seemed like a good idea and wasn't too difficult)
Wired positive and negative between both batteries in 25 mm cable with a 100 amp circuit breaker each end (they both feed this cable).
Pushed and shoved the air-conditioning pipe forward and to the passenger side about 2-3 cm to make some room.
Bought a small battery box and cut the bottom out to make a poly tray. Used the existing mounting platform on the driver side (good enough for Toyota in Europe) with a plastic plate bolted down underneath to give me a new mounting point for the air-conditioning pipe.
Ran two 6mm double cables to the driver side rear and installed a power outlet. One cable is spare for the future. The one in service has a inline 25Amp fuse at the Aux battery.
So early days has now been running for one week with just the fridge in the back going to and from work. The Aux battery has 12.7- 12.8 volts about one hour after I get to work with the fridge still running. Commute time to work is around 30 minutes.

Over night the fridge runs the battery down to 12.6 to 12.5 volts with the amps draw around 2.5 amps with the fridge set at 1.0 degree. Today at the same setting I monitored the amps drawing 3.5 and running the battery down to 12.4 volts after 9 hours in the sun with a max temp of 29 degrees out side.
I have not fitted the voltage boosting fuse / resister. I will see how it goes but at present seeing 12.7 -12.8 after a short run I think this is charging fine. I measure the charging voltage when at a fast idile at 13.8 volts.
Any way I'm happy and I did it my way.

[shodown Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close shodown]

Hi All,

Thought I would post here rather than create a new thread.

Looking at all the info for dual battery setups - must say rather confused.

My requirements for dual battery are:
- power to cargo area for fridge
- power dash cam
- power ancillary lighting (eventually)
- backup for emergency start

I've already picked up the ARB tray (liked the bracket for Redarc). Already grabbed myself Leigh's booster diode.

It seems like the consensus that 6B&S 13mm is the minimum required, though according to the Redarc SBI12 manual http://www.redarc.com.au/images/uplo...ion_Manual.pdf the Start Feature with Pushbutton Override requires 4B&S 19mm ?

Brains: is this why you used 3B&S 25mm?

Questions I have about the Redarc:
- Does the minimum wiring jump from 6B&S 13mm to 4B&S 19mm if you want to bridge the batteries?
- Does the momentary push button only bridge the batteries whilst being held?
- What if I wanted to bridge the two batteries permanently (say winching)
- Can you run a single LED pushbutton for both LED indicator and pushbutton?
- Would I be better served installing the ABR or Projecta battery monitor that gives ultimate control of the "override" switch function rather than the push button override on the Redarc?

Cheers,
Kevin

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

showdown Redarc have some guides on their site that helps you decide.

http://www.redarc.com.au/handy-hints...oth_batteries/

http://www.redarc.com.au/products/ca...tery-isolator/

[shodown Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close shodown]

showdown Redarc have some guides on their site that helps you decide.

http://www.redarc.com.au/handy-hints...oth_batteries/

http://www.redarc.com.au/products/ca...tery-isolator/

I guess I could obviously use a relay for bridging the batteries when winching etc, but I would prefer manual control over the bridging.

And none of the material I have read answers the previous questions of mine.

[Vk3zgw Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Vk3zgw]

1. Size of the wiring depends how much current. So bigger the better if starting current is required from the aux. battery with a badly depleted starting batt. Also bigger means less voltage drop. I prefer to use jumper leads if the starting batt. is low bridging both batteries +ve.
2. Yes
3. Use a switch instead of a push button
4. Yes. Have a look at the Redarc drawing
5. Whatever way, you should have a system of monitoring both battery voltages. I do it with a smal LCD volt meter (ebay, fitted to a switch blank) and switch to select each battery. The two voltage wires go one on each of the Redarc terminals. Don't forget to fuse/circuit breaker protect them.

[rodney Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close rodney]

Could I ask why you do not use the 100w outlet in the back of the Prado for your fridge, you have put a 12v under it ....... are they not suitable ?
Thank you cheers Rod

[Rdae1981 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rdae1981]

Could I ask why you do not use the 100w outlet in the back of the Prado for your fridge, you have put a 12v under it ....... are they not suitable ?
Thank you cheers Rod

The 100w outlet is not something l would rely upon to run a fridge off constantly as some fridges may work ok, others may draw more than 100w when starting the compressor causing the fridge the trip in and out but also it is only powered when the ignition is on, where as running a seperate 12v from an aux battery will be much more reliable and will conitinue to provide power to the fridge while engine is off.
Cheers Ryan

[carl1965 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close carl1965]

I leave my 40ltr engel plugged into both.
When the cars running its on the inverter when stopped on 12v with solar panel. Been running for 5 years hasnt missed a beat.