DIY - front disc and rotor replacement

[LargeInAPrado Member Find all posts View Profile Close LargeInAPrado]

Java if pushing back the pistons you didn't crack the bleed nipple to expel the fluid and rather pushed it all the way back up the system through the ABS unit and into the master cylinder it can make for a fairly resisted job due to the multiple small ports the fluid has to travel through and the comparatively large piston your pressing

[javaman Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close javaman]

Yes, I did open the nipple and let the fluid out.

Of course I did this after finding out the "effect" when done otherwise, from doing the rear

[Mark90s Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mark90s]

Rotor removal

Hi everyone,

I am replacing the front pads and rotors tonight and had to abandon it for the night as I am unable to removal the rotors!? Caliper and pads are off. Are the rotors meant to just pull off? I gave the rotor a bit of a tap from the back with a rubber mallet but not getting any sign I movement.
This write up doesn't go into detail about the actual rotor removal so I assumed it must just pull off.

Thanks in advance,

Mark

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

If you have removed the entire calipers, there is nothing left which holds the rotors in place. They do get a little stuck to the hub, so requiring a tap from behind is normal. If yours haven't been removed for a long time it may need some heavier hitting. With the rear, be sure to release the handbrake first ;-)

[Brett1979 Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Brett1979]

They can be a complete pain in the **** to remove, even when hitting from behind with a hammer on all angles. Remove two of the bash plate bolts and screw them into the holes on the face of the rotor opposite each other to seperate it from the hub behind (they should be a perfect fit). Screw one bolt in a little, then the other, then the previous bolt.... Bit by bit at a time. That will crack the bond that can seal a rotor to the hub and will space it off enough to then be able to gently tap it with a hammer to further remove it to the point where you can then pull it off (this is the part where stress turns into joy). This will make what has been a stressful job very easy. I too found out the hard way with difficult to remove rotors the first time I removed mine. I had to abandon the job after an afternoon of trying and leave the car in the garage with the calipers removed for the night until I found out how to remove the rotors the next day. Those holes on the outside of the rotor were staring me in the face the whole time too the buggers. I just wish I noticed them earlier.

[Mark90s Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mark90s]

Thanks for the reply guys. I ended up cleaning and painting the calipers then gave the rotors a few smacks with a metal mallet in the morning and popped right off
I'll try and post a couple of pics later.

Mark

[David Riddel Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close David Riddel]

Quick question -- can the front pads be removed WITHOUT removing the wheels?

I ask, as I was billed for front pad replacement, amongst other things, but then realised that I hadn't given the mechanic the wheel lock nut. Was I ripped off?

[Wagon Man Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wagon Man]

Quick question -- can the front pads be removed WITHOUT removing the wheels?

I ask, as I was billed for front pad replacement, amongst other things, but then realised that I hadn't given the mechanic the wheel lock nut. Was I ripped off?

Mate the wheels MUST be removed to replace any brake pads front or rear.

[Guest Close Guest]

Unless they removed the lock nuts a different way ( seen this done before).
But yes wheels off for any brake work.
Was the lock but in the car and they found it? It would be odd for it to be kept elsewhere usually?

[treesmith Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close treesmith]

I believe there are special tools out there for removing locking wheel nuts, as well as not so special tools!

[RobboMC Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RobboMC]

I have some really nice brake tools that make pad and rotor replacement easier.
One is a G-clamp arrangement that is used to push the pistons back into the bores.
The other is a ROUNDED clamp that is used to squeeze the flexible brake hose.

So you squeeze the hose, open the nipple. No fluid can come out is it's in a sort of vacuum.
Then you use the clamp device to wind the pistons back and the fluid comes out the nipple ( which of course you have a bleed hose on by now )

When the pistons are in far enough, close the nipple, release the hose clamp and fit the calliper.
Then of course pump up the pressure and top up the fluid reservoir.

These cheap little tools cost me about $15 each at Supercheap, and are worth every cent.

I have so far done 4 wheel pad and rotor replacement on our Zafira, 4 wheel pad replacement on the Prado
and am about to do front wheel pads and rotors on my lady's MG. Tools well and truly paid for themselves with just one car's worth.


I'm doing the Prado rotors soon so I'll make some pics of the tools in use.

Question: My front rotors have a medium level vibration. Should I bother with getting them machined or just fit new ones?
Price: machining is about $40 per rotor, new ones start at around $75????