Useful Wire Colors and locations

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Black wire in the light harness is the +ve switching wire.

[Wagon Man Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wagon Man]

Thanks mate

[DroversDog Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close DroversDog]

I have a 2012 GXL Diesel. The is a 2 pin plug below the engine bay fuel filter that is used for the diesel fuel heater in other parts of the world. If you place a relay into the 'FUEL HTR' socket in the fuse box then you will have a 25 amp ignition fed connection at this fuel heater socket. The fuse is already there so just a micro relay can be installed to use this circuit. Very handy for DRLs or any other ignition sourced circuit. The circuit is not active in accessory mode but is active during cranking.

ko762, thank you for this invaluable information. I used these wires with a Jaycar 30A micro horn relay installed in the engine bay fuse box to operate another 30A relay mounted in the engine bay to connect an 8 B&S wire directly (via a 30A in-line fuse) from the battery +ve to the trailer socket to operate the 3-way fridge in my van. I was reluctant to tap directly off the fuel heater wire even though it probably could have safely carried the 15A fridge current. Besides, I can use this wire to operate any other relays with the IGN on for other purposes if I wish.

As a matter of interest, I tried to get the correct Denso (blue) relay for the heater from the Toyota but they said it wasn't listed as available in Oz because it isn't used here. The same type of relay used in other positions in the fuse box was $120 so I decided to use the Jaycar relay at $5.95! These relays do all have a resistor across the coil to absorb the back EMF but I still may try to get a Toyota relay from a wrecker when I get a chance.

As Toyota confirmed the heater is not used here, I felt more comfortable snipping off the strange connector and crimping on extra wire to reach the relay. Don't like doing such things to my brand new 2013 Prado Altitude but I don't like tapping into harness wiring just to leave an unused connector in place either.

While running the fridge cable, I ran an extra fused cable to the boot compartment for a permanently live 12V socket for running a compressor fridge while parked or for charging phones, etc. overnight. I located the socket on the opposite side of the 220V socket, just forward of the cover for the jack.

This thread is the best idea ever.

[Vk3zgw Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Vk3zgw]

Make your own relay!

Don't worry too much about if a relay has an internal back EMF device fitted just for the sake of it being a exorbitantly priced OEM part. The diode can be fitted to any suitable relay that has both coil and contact ratings the same or close to the original, and that you can pull the cover off to get to the relay's insides. If its sealed, I have been able to open them up with careful use of a razor blade.

The resistor ( or more correctly the Voltage Dependant Resistor, VDR) or the 'quench' diode used in the OEM relay can be fitted to your cheap or similar relay across the coil. If for a DC circuit, which is what we have in our Prados, a diode with a goodly Peak Inverse Voltage PIV rating can be got from Jaycar for literally cents. A 1N4004 (that's 'one' N not i N) has a PIV of 400 volts and Jaycar has a pack of 4 for $0.50.

The diode has a line marked on one end, this is the cathode. Connect this end to the side of the coil that will have the +12V on it. If the circuit you are using it on switches an earth to the relay to cause it to operate, then there will be +12V on one of the relay's socket pins all the time (allowing for IGN and ACC type devices that the relay will be controlling). The easiest way to see which one is + and which is - is to connect a volt meter to the socket without the relay in, and operate the control which drives the relay.

Reseal the relay cover with a dab or two of super glue when you're done soldering the diode across the coil posts.

Cheers
Geoff

[ko7624 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close ko7624]

Geoff,

I think the Jaycar micro-relay that is being used by others has EMF suppression in it anyway. The picture on their website shows a resistor in the circuit so it should be quite fine to use with the Prado electrics.

DroversDog,

Glad it has helped you with your accessories. It can be daunting snipping off a perfectly good plug in a brand new car.....just wait till you fit a snorkel and take a huge holesaw to the front guard!!!! That'll get you over 'new car syndrome' hehe.

Cheers,

Ken

[Vk3zgw Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Vk3zgw]

Yep Ken, looks like that's a go.

Geoff

[Prone Member Find all posts View Profile Close Prone]

Further to my post #35 on this topic of Easy 12Volts access at rear of car.

It is possible to buy terminals with short leads on them from Mr Toyota (for a largish sum unfortunately, but less than $10 I think). This then enables you to insert the "repair wire" into the trailer socket and get easy connection to the unused wires that have 12V at R23.

The part numbers are -
Repair wire 4.8mm 160mm 82998-12370
Repair wire 2.3II 160mm 82998-12330

These will fit into the trailer side plug that fits into the trailer wiring socket R23.

They will allow easy connection to the two grey wires in the towing harness Socket R23.

The grey wire with the smaller 2.3mm connector is only at 12V when the ign is on, but not at the accessory position. It is protected by a 7.5A fuse and this circuit is used by quite a few other important circuits. Probably best not to try to draw much power from this circuit. I will use it to switch a relay connected to the larger diameter grey wire.

The grey wire with the larger 4.8mm connector is permanently at 12V and is protected by its own 30A fuse "Towing Brake".

Cheers
Prone

[Dingle Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Dingle]

Further to Prone's info above I've traced the thicker grey wire and tested it along the way. From me on another thread:

The grey wire indeed runs right from the LHS rear R23 socket through socket AR2 in the LHS footwell to a 30A fuse in the engine bay. My fuse however is marked 'Towing' (facelifted MY14 GXL). I haven't checked the green wire you mention.

White/black is an earth wire as described.

After confirming that this circuit doesn't power anything else (my CD is in the mail) I'd be happy to split this Grey wire prior to the footwell connector (see pics); use the live side to power the controller; and the tail as the 'blue' wire to the rear plug. One of those 'repair tails' would be handy here prone for a very neat install straight into the connector. I'll pick up the purple at the brake peddle for signal. Missed anything?

[peterpanner Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close peterpanner]

Does any one know what the following connectors are used for in the 150?

1. White plug right at the bottom of the driver's side front panel (in front of knees) under the knee airbag and switches. One tiny socket is battery power.
2. Grey socket inside engine bay, right hand side about 40cm or so from the rear of the engine area. This grey plug arrangement, connected to the RH side wall has two fat wires plus 2 small, one being green. Connected to the big wiring tube coming from inside the car interior.

I am wanting ignition on power in the right hand side engine bay to trigger a relay to power a front camera I installed. I do not want to use wires inside driver's area / dash.

[ko7624 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close ko7624]

Does any one know what the following connectors are used for in the 150?

1. White plug right at the bottom of the driver's side front panel (in front of knees) under the knee airbag and switches. One tiny socket is battery power.
2. Grey socket inside engine bay, right hand side about 40cm or so from the rear of the engine area. This grey plug arrangement, connected to the RH side wall has two fat wires plus 2 small, one being green. Connected to the big wiring tube coming from inside the car interior.

I am wanting ignition on power in the right hand side engine bay to trigger a relay to power a front camera I installed. I do not want to use wires inside driver's area / dash.

1. The first plug your asking about is the vehicle diagnostic plug by the sound of it. I would NOT recommend wiring anything to it except diagnostic tools or scanguage type equipment as its a direct 'feed' from the ECU.

2. Im not sure of the second plug your asking about but if you need an ignition feed try the un-used diesel heater socket on the other side of the engine bay. See earlier posts in this thread for further info.

Cheers

Ken

[peterpanner Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close peterpanner]

Thought this might interest folks loking for an easy ignition activated wire.
Was searching for an ignition activated wire to switch a relay for a front camera. It was recommended to use the fuel heater fuse socket in the relay/fuse box in the engine bay. This is not used in Australian models. The live socket (once ignition is on) was easily found by reading the relay locations under the plastic box lid. Filed down a male wire spade connector, drilled a hole in the side of the relay/fuse box top the same size as the wire, poked the wire through and connected to the spade by crimping plus a little solder.

I now have a live positive wire running from the battery to a 4 fuse box arrangement at the rhs rear of the engine compartment. Also have the ignition activiated wire running around the rear of the engine compartment, all encased in black split tube (not sure what it is called). I am now accessory ready!

[martink Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close martink]

Hi Everyone,
Has anybody mounted driving lights on their roof rack?
If so, how did you run the cableing for the lights to the roofrack?
Any and all ideas are appreciated.
Regards
Martin

[mumstruk Member Find all posts View Profile Close mumstruk]

Found this one when ginning around fitting my 2 way. In the second relay box is a relay space marked PTC 3. Not sure how to actually fire this relay up but I have spliced a wire to feed the relay coil once the ignition is on. It gives you 30 amps at the passenger footwell, to a heavy black wire in a connector block. This wire is not connected as far as I can tell to anything. I was going to use it to supply power to my trailer brakes via the P3 Prodigy. Earlier reading in this thread has given me the fuel heater to power my brakes, easy as.

What is or does a PTC do? I can only imagine they are fuel tank and sump heaters for cold climate vehicles.

[mumstruk Member Find all posts View Profile Close mumstruk]

Here's another
Large connector block, black socket, drivers side behind lower right hand switch panel
Red wire, blue trace , 12 volt when motor running.

Wire is a half decent gauge , not sure what or where it goes.
Maybe someone knows what this wire feeds.

[lippa Member Find all posts View Profile Close lippa]

Hi Everyone,
Has anybody mounted driving lights on their roof rack?
If so, how did you run the cableing for the lights to the roofrack?
Any and all ideas are appreciated.
Regards
Martin

easy if you have a snorkel. using gland nuts feed wire through your airbox, up the snorkel and exit it (using a gland nut again at the most convient location at the top of your snorkel.

simples