AT cooler and filter installation

[Mefestofel Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mefestofel]

Hey guys,

Any one did this installation on their PRADO 95 series? Please post pics. I have ordered the cooloer and filter - just curious of installation points.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

Maxim

[Surf5l Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Surf5l]

Re: AT cooler and filter installation

Hey Maxim, how did you go with this? I would also be interested in doing this as we tow a camper plus for beach driving I thought it might be worth adding.

[Torrie 72 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Torrie 72]

If you guys are still interested I can take some pics of my cooler install. I expect you've well and truly done it and moved on now though

[letsgoplaces Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close letsgoplaces]

Maybe they have Torrie, but there are more of us out here that could be interested

[grimreaper Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close grimreaper]

i know this is a old thread but has anyone done this mod yet as i have just got a 95 series td with the auto and want to put a trans cooler on it

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

Yes and there's a couple pics in my build up. Check my index on the first page.

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?p=444973

[Ken in Cairns Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ken in Cairns]

Yep I fitted one, easy as.
I used the biggest one Supercheap sold, and it is held on with nylon clips, just take care when you put the tails through your radiator.

Just make sure you protect the lines going up to the air cooler, I ran them inside some bigger ID hose I had lying around, didn't want them chafing anywhere.

The filter in the auto is reusable, well mine was, it is a fine mesh type, just wash it with kerosene and then clean that out with water, dry well and then oil with clean ATF to stop it rusting.

When you have it all back together, leave the hoses off, fill the auto with 3 litres of clean ATF, get someone to start it up and drain 2 litres of the dirty oil into a bucket, stop the engine and repeat until nice clean oil comes out. I filled a normal house hold bucket about 3/4 full before the nice new oil came flowing out.

Most of the oil is in the torque converter and this is the only was to get it out, just make sure you only drain out 2 litres at a time and put in the same or a little more, you don't want to run it dry.
The system holds 11 litres all up if my memory serves me right, and the pan holds about 3, the rest is in the converter as I said before.

I set mine up so it comes from the auto, through the standard radiator cooling points, then to the new air cooler and then back to the auto.

Cleaning the sump pan and filter, with all the old oil flushed out and the extra cooler have defiantly made a difference, smoother gear changes and it runs a lot cooler now.

I thought I had some photos of it fitted in my Rig build up post see here.
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ghlight=Cairns

But I've been slack and haven't updated photobucket.

Hope that helps
Ken

[scottkz Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close scottkz]

Yep I fitted one, easy as.
I used the biggest one Supercheap sold, and it is held on with nylon clips, just take care when you put the tails through your radiator.

Just make sure you protect the lines going up to the air cooler, I ran them inside some bigger ID hose I had lying around, didn't want them chafing anywhere.

The filter in the auto is reusable, well mine was, it is a fine mesh type, just wash it with kerosene and then clean that out with water, dry well and then oil with clean ATF to stop it rusting.

When you have it all back together, leave the hoses off, fill the auto with 3 litres of clean ATF, get someone to start it up and drain 2 litres of the dirty oil into a bucket, stop the engine and repeat until nice clean oil comes out. I filled a normal house hold bucket about 3/4 full before the nice new oil came flowing out.

Most of the oil is in the torque converter and this is the only was to get it out, just make sure you only drain out 2 litres at a time and put in the same or a little more, you don't want to run it dry.
The system holds 11 litres all up if my memory serves me right, and the pan holds about 3, the rest is in the converter as I said before.

I set mine up so it comes from the auto, through the standard radiator cooling points, then to the new air cooler and then back to the auto.

Cleaning the sump pan and filter, with all the old oil flushed out and the extra cooler have defiantly made a difference, smoother gear changes and it runs a lot cooler now.

I thought I had some photos of it fitted in my Rig build up post see here.
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ghlight=Cairns

But I've been slack and haven't updated photobucket.

Hope that helps
Ken

exactly what Ken said ... look on ebay also for big oil coolers much cheaper i did just this but mounted mine off the side of the rad support.
but you MUST run the factory cooler aswell many people might say the factory cooler heats the oil up... well average coolant running temp is no more than 110'ish average auto oil running temp is well over a few 100' so do the maths

scott.

[Ken in Cairns Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ken in Cairns]

Thanks Scot, but I don't think you want the oil getting to a few hundreds, I think the Temp light is 150 or 160, which is WAY to high really.
Temp is the killer for sure, and that sort of temp spells death for an auto.
If your oil is dark red your OK, if it is dark brown or black and smells like burnt cork you are in deep trouble, the auto has been cooked, and will fail sooner rather than later.

Some people by-pass the old radiator cooling because they believe either that the new air cooler has enough cooling capacity by itself, which isn't really possible unless you live in a bloody cold climate and / or have a huge air cooler, or they are trying to reduce the heat load on the engine cooling system.
If the engine cooling system is not coping with the load from the auto, this points to other inherent problems with the vehicle. The radiator might be scaled up or partially blocked, the water pump might not be delivering it's rated capacity, the thermostat might be faulty, the thermo fan might not be engaging both fans or at too high a temperature, the clutch fan might have low silicon oil level (mine was nearly empty) and so on.

I know my engine cooling system is up to snuff, it had better be now after all the work I have done on it !!
So I use the standard water cooling system to bring the temp from say 110 or so to 85 or so ( the engine intake temp roughly) and the air cooler should drop that to maybe 50 or 60, not sure exactly as I haven't measured it, but if it doesn't drop it another 20 or 30 degrees at least I'd be surprised.


As an afterthought did you know most of the new vehicles fitted with autos are sealed for life !!!! No drain plug, nada servicing, I bet that is gonna cost a lot of people a lot of cash down the road !.

Stay Safe

Ken

[sae70 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close sae70]

I inherited a remote AT cooler install on my latest truck, but was not happy with how it had been installed! So I re-installed it myself

Here are some photos of how it looked before and how it looks now

[scottkz Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close scottkz]

Thanks Scot, but I don't think you want the oil getting to a few hundreds, I think the Temp light is 150 or 160, which is WAY to high really.
Temp is the killer for sure, and that sort of temp spells death for an auto.
If your oil is dark red your OK, if it is dark brown or black and smells like burnt cork you are in deep trouble, the auto has been cooked, and will fail sooner rather than later.

Some people by-pass the old radiator cooling because they believe either that the new air cooler has enough cooling capacity by itself, which isn't really possible unless you live in a bloody cold climate and / or have a huge air cooler, or they are trying to reduce the heat load on the engine cooling system.
If the engine cooling system is not coping with the load from the auto, this points to other inherent problems with the vehicle. The radiator might be scaled up or partially blocked, the water pump might not be delivering it's rated capacity, the thermostat might be faulty, the thermo fan might not be engaging both fans or at too high a temperature, the clutch fan might have low silicon oil level (mine was nearly empty) and so on.

I know my engine cooling system is up to snuff, it had better be now after all the work I have done on it !!
So I use the standard water cooling system to bring the temp from say 110 or so to 85 or so ( the engine intake temp roughly) and the air cooler should drop that to maybe 50 or 60, not sure exactly as I haven't measured it, but if it doesn't drop it another 20 or 30 degrees at least I'd be surprised.


As an afterthought did you know most of the new vehicles fitted with autos are sealed for life !!!! No drain plug, nada servicing, I bet that is gonna cost a lot of people a lot of cash down the road !.

Stay Safe

Ken

Yeah wasn't too sure on actual temps on the auto !

[Ken in Cairns Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ken in Cairns]

Nice use of threaded rod Sae70. Just be careful that you haven't put stress cracks in the bends, that stuff doesn't like to be bent far cold.
I didn't think of mounting mine like that, I just used the clip ties in the kit.
Might be worth putting some rubber between the nuts and the mounts too mate, give the alloy a little vibration protection.

[sae70 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close sae70]

Cheers Ken

Used Mapp gas tourch to heat the rod when bending it, so hopefully no stress cracks! Did not consider any vibration protection! I just wanted to get it moved from where it was as the previous location required the removal of one of the intercooler scoops and in my mind that was a big no no!

[Ken in Cairns Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ken in Cairns]

If you heated it you should be OK, you usually can see cracks at the root of the threads if you bent the bar cold.
I have a petrol, so no intercooler mate.

I think the rubber inserts would not be a waste of time or effort, alloy gets work hardened quite quickly, and this will lead to cracking with vibrations.

My cooler is about twice the size of the one you have, and it wasn't a lot dearer than the size you have, but it gets fairly hot up this neck of the woods and I wanted the largest cooler I could fit.