12V socket problems

[Mikey Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Mikey]

I'm currently driving a new middle east spec TX, wich is the base model in this part of the world (2.7ltr engine). It's a company car, that I'm currently driving around Riyadh, as it has an automatic, and my Own Prado (2006) hasn't (you won't believe the traffic overhere, like India, only with higher speeds). Anyway, when I transfered from my own Prado to this one, I put my small Weaco fridge (CF-18) on the backseat, and plugged it in the back of the centre console. After some driving, I noticed, the compressor, was contineously trying to start unsuccesfully. I subsequently tried the socket on the right of the back door (were you have your 220V invertor), and got the same result. I feared, my fridge had broken down. As last resort,a ran the cable to the front of the car, and plugged it in the centre console, and what do you know, working perfectly!. So now I'm driving with the fridge in the front socket, and the satnav, in the rear socket.
Does anyone have an explanation for this?

I'm asking since I'm getting a new TX-L V6 pretty soon, and want to now how to solve the problem if there is one.

thanks,

[ozwapet2 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close ozwapet2]

Re: 12V socket problems

Standard "cigarette lighter" type 12V sockets are notorious for being unreliable for running anything that requires a higher current. For the life of me I can't understand why car makers persist with that design.
The problem is that maintaining electrical contacts on the front + pin relies on pressure from the small springs on the side of the plug, and it can easily become loose. Then you start gettinng arcing of the contacts which makes an even poorer connection.
Also the wiring to the rear socket is quite thin and probably can't handle the start up load of the fridge.

Most of us here in Australia will run seperate 12V wiring direct from the battery to run the fridge. ( we NEED the fridges to be reliable for the beer ) :wink: Then install a Hella type connector socket, which has a locking push fit. Your Waeco fridge lead probably has a combo cig lighter/ Hella plug. You remove the red ring and it becomes a Hella plug.

Your CF-18 is a smaller fridge than we use but it is still a compressor fridge, which will have a highish start up current load.

[Mikey Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Mikey]

Re: 12V socket problems

So, Toyota have been saving on the wiring of the 12volt sockets in the rear? Nevertheless, all three sockets in the car are labelled "12V/120W". I never would have figured this small fridge would be pulling 10amps. Anyway, I'll try and fit a dual battery to my next Prado, so I'll need to run new wiring to the back of the car anyway.
It's still strange though, especialy since the fridge has always been plugged in the rear socket of my 2006 Prado without issues.

[NewK Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close NewK]

Re: 12V socket problems

I burnt out two 12v sockets in my Suzuki Grand Vitara plugging a fridge in. All manufacturers use small wiring that is why waeco, engel and others sell gear for you run from your battery to ensure your fridge keeps running.

[drivesafe Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close drivesafe]

Re: 12V socket problems

None of the vehicle manufacturers allow for voltage drop when they install the wiring for cigarette power sockets.

The existing wiring will carry the required load of 10 amps but the voltage drop that occurs when any load greater than an amp or two is pulled through any of the power sockets can make fridge operations very unreliable.

The only effective way to fix this problem is to install heavier cable, both positive and negative, running from the cranking battery, or the auxiliary battery when a dual battery system is fitted.

For a single power socket, use 6mm AUTO ( 4.5mm2 ) twin cable and if you have two sockets fitted, run 8B&S ( 7.9mm2 ) twin to the rear cargo area and then branch to each power socket using 6mm AUTO twin.

You need to fit a 20 amp fuse or circuit breaker at the battery end of the new cabling or if you use 8B&S, you need to fit a 30 amp fuse or circuit breaker at the battery end of the new cabling.