Great photos guys. Very clear.
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Aftermarket front recovery points for 150 Series
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My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic
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Now that is what a simpleton like me has been waiting for - many thanks to the collective group who've gone to the effort to document their installs. Cheers!Prado 150 D4D AUTO GXL with ARB Deluxe Winchbar, Brains' TG150 Transfer Case Actuator Guard, Bilstein/Ridepro 50mm Lift, Safari Snorkel, D697 265/65/17 LTs, Dual Battery Setup with REDARC Controller, REDARC Tow Pro, Toyota Tow Bar, Maxtrax - towing a Camprite TL8s fitted with GXL wheels and D697s.
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I may have lead you astray with my bottom bolt. As AMTS said, it should have been an M12 thread in the chassis and therefore the bolts supplied with the Roadsafe kit would fit straight in. For some reason my lower bolts were M14s and were too short to use with the Roadsafe bracket. By the looks of it ARB have increased the size by drilling and tapping and bigger thread into the chassis (And they did a terrible job of that too by the way!). Anyway the bolts tightened up OK so I don't think it's going anywhere. But yes, ARB should have told me they'd done that, but then again they should have also told me they cracked my grill when installing the bullbar, that they left two bolts out and that they broke two locating tabs off the bottom of my grill too! This is why I try to do my own work wherever I can. The 'she'll be right mate' attitude of many tradesmen and fitters these days just astounds me.[B]2010 GXL Prado D4D Auto[/B] - ARB Deluxe winch bar, Roadsafe recovery points, Rhinorack Pioneer platform, AMTS fuel filter/compressor combo bracket with FM100 filter and ARB compressor, Maxtrax, TIN175 transmission oil cooler bracket and tranny cooler. I'm sure I'll find something else....
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Something else I noticed with regard to the ARB captive nuts on my vehicle.
If I was fitting them I would put them this way around so that the piece of flat acted as a washer under the nut inside the chassis rail...
Mine were fitted by ARB like this...
Does anyone know if there's a reason why they would put them this way around?[B]2010 GXL Prado D4D Auto[/B] - ARB Deluxe winch bar, Roadsafe recovery points, Rhinorack Pioneer platform, AMTS fuel filter/compressor combo bracket with FM100 filter and ARB compressor, Maxtrax, TIN175 transmission oil cooler bracket and tranny cooler. I'm sure I'll find something else....
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Looks like you managed to get some knuckle dragger working on your car Hollywood, I would fit them the same way you would. I can completely agree with fitting stuff yourself, since delivery the only person other than me to work on mine has been a tyre fitter, only cause I can't be bothered to fit tyres. That workmanship from ARB really is especially poor though, retapping threads, cracking your grille, amateur hour![LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]
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The retapped threads are bugging me now as the 'new' threads weren't all that flash. I think I'll end up putting a helicoil in there for peace of mind![B]2010 GXL Prado D4D Auto[/B] - ARB Deluxe winch bar, Roadsafe recovery points, Rhinorack Pioneer platform, AMTS fuel filter/compressor combo bracket with FM100 filter and ARB compressor, Maxtrax, TIN175 transmission oil cooler bracket and tranny cooler. I'm sure I'll find something else....
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Just completed this exercise today - I'd say 30 mins per side, but only cause of the excellent advice from the above contributors. My ARB captive nuts were orientated the same as Holywood's - i.e. the long end towards the front of the car and I would say this made extraction easier - I did't have the same issues as Hollywood getting them out, just some bending and wiggling and they came free. In case anyone is wondering, the forward nuts in chassis for the recovery point is welded (or at least very securely "captured") and there's no risk of loosing them - I was worried about this, but all was ok. If anyone in Perth wants assistance with this process, having done it once, I reckon we could knock the job over easily over a beer - let me know!
Sincere thanks again for those that have gone before me and done such a top job photographing and recording the process. Cheers!Prado 150 D4D AUTO GXL with ARB Deluxe Winchbar, Brains' TG150 Transfer Case Actuator Guard, Bilstein/Ridepro 50mm Lift, Safari Snorkel, D697 265/65/17 LTs, Dual Battery Setup with REDARC Controller, REDARC Tow Pro, Toyota Tow Bar, Maxtrax - towing a Camprite TL8s fitted with GXL wheels and D697s.
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Can I just ask, using the roadsafe wire-nuts, as I'm useless (but trying to become less useless), if I were feeding the wire nuts through the chassis, do I want to put the flat/plate side against the inside of the chassis, or the nut side against the inside of the chassis for the bolt to thread through? My logic would say the flat side but the wires are all bent so that the nut side is the first side that the bolt touches... The other night I was following the bend and trying to put the nut side but couldn't get the threads to connect (after reading this thread, I have a few ideas on how to fix that though ).
Unfortunately searching for wire-nut in google brings up a completely different piece of hardware to what I'm looking for :-/
I apologise in advance - I'm a domesticated male, we're becoming more frequent in these parts, you can view our species among the concrete jungle, but, I am trying to build up my tool kit and become more man-ly-like... 10yrs ago I was pulling apart a small block engine, now I don't even know how to bolt up a recovery point
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