Factory Inverter

[LeighW]

Regarding fridge, I wrote this for another discussion but it is relevant here also:

"They fact you can doesn't mean it's a good idea, the inverter has the advantage that it will enable the fridge to startup
happily will the light duty cable running to it where if you were to try and run the fridge on 12V using the same cabling it most likely wouldn't start.

Now the down side, we'll assume the fridge uses about 3A (36Watts at 12V) when running. The power supply for the fridge when running
on 240V would only be about 75% efficient therefore it would be taking about 3.75A form the inverter. The inverter is again proberly about
75% efficient so the inverter would be pulling around 4.7A from the battery when it's running. Not very efficent!
To make matters worse when the fridge runs on 12V and the motor turns off it draws practically nothing from the 12Volts.
When the fridge turns off when running on 240V you still have the Inverter and the fridge power supply idling and wasting
power which is why we put dual battery systems in!"

Cheers
LeighW

[D4Dazz]

YEP!

Confused :roll: :roll:

The 150 has a 220V plug that runs through an inverter. The 120 has a cigy plug that has printed on it's cover 12V 120W.

Whats the difference? You guys seem to know what you are talking about..

I'm confused because I know that a dual battery system is the way to go ....no doubt, no argument. However I have been running my Engel 40lt from the cigy socket for the past 6 years (over 2 vehicles) and had no isses with flat batteries. 2 weeks on Fraser, 2 weeks in the high Country, 2 week around Mildura and the Flinders no issues.

My question real is, what the diffence between the system in the 150 and 120? Is one better than the other?

Many Thanks!

[LeighW]

D4Dazz,

If your comparing a 120 D4D with a 150D4D there is no difference.

If you are able to run your fridge for two weeks off the batteries you are doing nothing wrong. You are a legend!

120Watts is 120Watts! At 12 volts this would equate to a circuit current of 10A. At 220V the current
in the circuit would be .545A

It is better to run the fridge from 12V as the inverter and the 240V power supply in the fridge
are not 100% efficient. Therefore battery power is wasted stepping the voltage up then down
again.

The problem with the factory outlets is they use thin gauge wire. This results in a voltage drop and
loss of efficency. The current Instead of running your fridge is wasted as heat in the wiring loom.

The bottom line though is, if your current system works well for you don't change it!

Cheers

LeighW

[D4Dazz]

Thanks Leigh.

The long term objective is to fit a dual battery system. In the meantime I wanted to use what is alreay fitted in the 150. And my 120 is the D4D and yes the 150 will be a deisel too.

Thanks for the info.

[tp1]

I just came across this thread as I am in the process of getting a new Prado myself.

I'm not so sure that using the 220v outlet on the Prado will be inefficient for an Engel Fridge. As I understand it, my Engel fridge ( and others may as well) has an inverter in it for conversion of the 12v current to 240v. A 220/240v supply is passed through unchanged. If you take the power from the outlet ( provided it is sufficient) there should be no further inefficiencies from voltage conversion than there would be by feeding 12v to the fridge.

[Bruffy]

Hi guys,

would it be possible to run a new wire from a 2nd battery to the inverter so it can be used while the vehicles not running?

[Corigator]

Hi guys,

would it be possible to run a new wire from a 2nd battery to the inverter so it can be used while the vehicles not running?

All things are possible.

[VXWesty]

Hi guys,

would it be possible to run a new wire from a 2nd battery to the inverter so it can be used while the vehicles not running?

Yes, I have done exactly that on my car. Now I can use the 240 outlet at any time.

VXWesty

[bilmar72]

I presume everyone is aware that for those who would like a simple 12 volt socket in the back, in place of the 220 volt unit, Toyota sell the parts for A$121.00. The 12 volt parts replace the 220 volt panel and the 12 volt wiring is already in place behind the 220 volt socket, so it is plug and play. Therefore there is no need to remove the side trim panel, the changeover can be easily carried out by simply prising out the 220 volt panel.

Obviously the 12 volt socket remains at 10 amps as per the factory wiring but this is ample if you just want to run a fridge more reliably. I have converetd my Kakadu and it works perfectly.

The parts needed will come from Japan (mine took only two weeks) and are Bezel Part Number 8553660040A0, Power outlet cover Part Number 8553535080A0 and Socket Part Number 8553042010. These are the part numbers for the tan trim, the A becomes B in the first two items for the grey trim.

Just thought I would note this in case anyone is not aware.

2012-02-25 11.08.00.jpg

[wooley]

nifty.






(making up character limit)