I joined the forum to get an insight on how to wire up and run the cable for the brake controller. It is the Tekonsha P3.
Thanks to all the good posters.
I ended up installing mine in the glove compartment, removing the pointless credit card box. I was a bit dubious as to how it would end up, and whether it ws a safe best for the operation of the brake controller. Thankfully all went well and works a treat.
Again, thanks to all who posted and gave me some insight in running cables and what to expect!
Gaz[ATTACH=CONFIG]19444[/ATTACH]
Looks good mate , neat install.
Matt
2008 120 GX D4D with a few extras
Rig build here
[url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33115-Mattfunk-s-120[/url]
It does look neat, how do you go reaching the override if needed though? Better question, how does your wife go reaching the override if needed? Just sayin....
[LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]
Must admit that's why I like the controller mounted to the left of steering wheel, if the wife panicks while she is towing (which I must say is very rare) it still gives me the option of reaching over and throwing the over ride on if needed. Unless your controller has a seperate over ride switch ??... Cheers Steve
G'Day All,
My first post, Picked up my diesel GXL 150 this week.
Firstly thanks to all the regular posters. Reading your experiences has helped pass the time during the long wait for the new 150.
I had the factory tow bar fitted and now need to add the break controller. I like the (hidden) look of the RedArc remote unit, but I'm concerned about the no proportional breaking. I'll be towing a 1200kg (when empty) A-van Ray 14'. Does any one have any experience and comments? I see a few have been added according to other posts. The P3 would be a second choice but only if the no proportional breaking is an issue.
I'm also a bit unclear as to the use of the (very small) blue wire in the R/Left compartment from the end of the factory harness. Are people using this or rewiring direct to the plug with something bigger.
Thanks,
Mark,
VK2JMA
Have had my 150 for 12 months now and have had RedArc controller fitted from new. I use it in AUTO mode and can upgrade braking by simply by turning up the dial as required. The best part of this unit is that it auto adjusts each time you start towing
The earlier version of the Redarc controller doesn't have proportional breaking but the latest version does.
This is the Tow-Pro and is compatible with ESC on new caravans.
I have fitted one and quite impressed
The earlier version of the Redarc controller doesn't have proportional breaking but the latest version does.
This is the Tow-Pro and is compatible with ESC on new caravans.
I have fitted one and quite impressed
And the remote head looks great and can be installed almost anywhere in the dash.
My white GX auto build thread - [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?35075-Early-s-150-TD-Prado"][U][B][COLOR="#0000FF"]clicky[/COLOR][/B][/U][/URL]
Thanks for all the info.
I have a new GXL 150 and completed the installation of a P2 controller yesterday.
All the colours and locations of the wires and fuse made it easy to connect.
Used the grey wire in the LHS footwell for the power and conncted it to the brake wire in the tow bar loom at the rear.
i located it in the same place as Dingle looks neat, close the door and it's out of site.
Thanks again
Fred
Hi Fred,
I am a bit overwhelmed and confused about the whole installation.
on other posts at pradopoint i was told to connect the blue wire from the ps3 to the hanging blue wire of the harness in the back of the car. Is that correct? By seeing other posts people are saying that blue loose wire shouldn't be used. what is the right way of doing it?
Another thing that is confusing me is that some people are recommending sourcing the power straight from the battery using a circuit breaker and that is what I have done but the problem i have is that the PS3 is constantly on and will drain my battery. can you explore a bit more in what other alternative i have to make the PS3 turn on only when the car is turned on.
thank you
I am a bit overwhelmed and confused about the whole installation.
on other posts at pradopoint i was told to connect the blue wire from the ps3 to the hanging blue wire of the harness in the back of the car. Is that correct? By seeing other posts people are saying that blue loose wire shouldn't be used. what is the right way of doing it?
Another thing that is confusing me is that some people are recommending sourcing the power straight from the battery using a circuit breaker and that is what I have done but the problem i have is that the PS3 is constantly on and will drain my battery. can you explore a bit more in what other alternative i have to make the PS3 turn on only when the car is turned on.
thank you
kind regards
Rod
Hi
I installed a PS3 much like you describe. I ran a separate power wire direct from the battery to the PS3 and ran two cables to the rear - one connected to the harness blue wire which is the brake control wire, and the second cable as a sense wire connected to the trailer brake light wire.
The standard harness blue wire might be a little light for tandem axles, but I only have a single axle trailer.
The PS3 is always powered but goes to into a standby mode when the car is not moving. I measured the current draw and it is miniscule, even when 'on'. It won't drain your battery.
Pretty sure when I installed mine the guide recommended that the unit should be horizontal!
Yep, I fitted a PS3 to my old car, and instructions clearly state that it must be parallel to the direction of travel. (just as the picture above shows..)
It can be angled up to 30degrees front-to-back, provided it remains parallel and not tilted side to side.
In the real world mine occasionally was at 45deg front to back and still seemed to work just fine.
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