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Thread: How to read ECU fault codes. 1KZ-TE & D4D

  1. #1
    Addicted PP Member MickL's Avatar
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    How to read ECU fault codes. 1KZ-TE & D4D

    The ability to self diagnose and store faults as an extractable code is a great feature of modern engine management systems.

    It assists us to trouble shoot what is an increasingly complex system and is especially handy for finding the cause of those intermittent problems that would otherwise drive us insane trying to find.

    Despite the 1kz-te being an old school technology engine its engine management is relatively sophisticated (It can be thought of as single point electronic fuel injection)

    The codes stored in the ECU can be easily extracted at home and are displayed via the engine check light on the instrument cluster.

    The codes can be read by shorting out pin 4 and 13 on the (16 pin) DLC3 connector located under the fuse box on the drivers side of the dash.

    A short piece of wire can be used to short the pins (tin the ends with solder and keep it in your tool kit)




    Steps:

    1) Make sure the ignition is OFF, throttle closed, Aircon OFF and if its automatic have it in P.
    2) Turn the ignition ON but dont crank or start the engine.
    3) Put the jumper wire across the connector pins. (pin 4 and pin 13)
    4) Read codes displayed via the engine check light.
    5) Disconnect the wire when finished extracting codes and turn the ignition off.

    Reading Codes:

    Codes are read by the flashing of the Check Engine light on the instrument cluster.




    If there are no codes held in the ECU then the light will have a continuous flash, on for second, off for second.

    All the codes are two digit numbers. The first flash is 4.5 seconds from when you short the pins. It stays on for a second then off for a second. Then the first digit of the code will flash, followed by a 1.5 second pause then the second digit will flash.

    Example:

    4x flashes. 1.5 second pause2x flashes. Would be code 42.


    If there is only one code the there will be a 4.5 second pause before the code will be repeated.

    If more codes are present the codes the pause between codes will be 2.5 seconds.

    To clear the codes from the memory of the ECU remove the fuse labeled ECD from the fuse box in the engine bay. Leave it out for 60 seconds.
    (Dont clear the memory by removing the battery or you will have to reset the clock, radio and windows)


    Codes and what sensor/circuit it relates too:

    1KZ-TE diagnostic codes:

    12 = No RPM signal during cranking.
    13 = No RPM signal after cranking and engine reaches 680rpm+
    14 = Timing control signal (crankshaft angle 7 deg or more out from target)
    15 = Throttle control motor (no signal)
    16 = Auto trans control signal
    18 = Spill control valve (no signal)
    19 = Accel pedal position sensor (no signal)
    22 = Coolant temp sensor
    24 = Intake air temp sensor.
    32 = Correction resistor signal.
    33 = Intake constrictor control signal.
    35 = Boost pressure sensor.
    39 = Fuel temp sensor.
    41 = Throttle position sensor.
    42 = Vehicle speed sensor.
    43 = Starter signal to ECU.
    51 = Switch control system
    96 = EGR valve lift sensor.
    99 = Engine immobilizer.


    D4D diagnostic codes:

    Extracting ECU trouble codes from D4D powered Prados via the engine check light uses exactly the same method as shown for the 1KZ-TE above.

    Those of you with a Scan Gauge or similar OBD reader will get codes displayed on the screen of the unit. These codes are in a slightly different format (letter P followed by a four digit number).

    D4D engine management fault codes:

    The first code is that shown via an OBD reader, the second code shown (in brackets) is shown via the engine check light.

    P0045 (34) - Boost control solenoid circuit malfunction

    P0087 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor or rail pressure too low.

    P0088 (49) - Fuel rail pressure too high.

    P0093 (78) - Fuel system leak (Large leak)

    P0095 (23) - Intake air temperature sensor circuit (open/short/failure)

    P0097 (23) - Intake air temp circuit low input.

    P0098 (23) - Intake temperature sensor circuit high input.

    P0100 (31) - Mass air flow meter or circuit (open/short/failure)

    P0102 (31) - Air flow meter circuit low input.

    P0103 (31) - Air flow meter circuit high input.

    P0105 (31) - Manifold absolute pressure sensor circuit (short/open/failure)

    P0107 (31) - Manifold absolute pressure sensor circuit low input.

    P0108 (31) - Manifold absolute pressure sensor circuit high input.

    P0110 (24) - Intake air temperature circuit (open/short/failure)

    P0112 (24) - Intake air temperature circuit low input

    P0113 (24) - Intake air temperature circuit high input.

    P0115 (22) - Coolant temperature circuit (open/short/failure).

    P0117 (22) - Coolant temperature circuit low input.

    P0118 (22) - Coolant temperature circuit high input.

    P0168 (39) - Fuel temperature too high.

    P0180 (39) - Fuel temp sensor A (open/short/failure)

    P0182 (39) - Fuel temp sensor A low input.

    P0183 (39) - Fuel temp sensor A high input.

    P0190 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit (open/short/failure)

    P0191 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit performance/range

    P0192 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit input low.

    P0193 (49) - Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit high input.

    P0200 (97) - Injector circuit (open/short/failure)

    P0234 (34) - Turbo over boost condition.

    P0299 (34) - Turbo under boost condition.

    P0335 (12,13) - Crankshaft position sensor circuit A (open/short/failure).

    P0339 (13) - Crankshaft position sensor circuit A intermittent fault.

    P0340 (12) - Crankshaft position sensor circuit A no signal after cranking.

    P0400 (71) - EGR position sensor (valve out of position)

    P0405 (96) - EGR position sensor low input.

    P0406 (96) - EGR position sensor high input.

    P0488 (15) - EGR throttle position sensor/motor/circuit fault.

    P0500 (42) - Vehicle speed sensor A (open/short/failure)

    P0504 (51) - Brake switch.

    P0607 (89) - Control module fault (ECM internal fault)

    P0627 (78) - Fuel pump control circuit (open/short/failure)

    P1229 (78) - Fuel pump fail.

    P1251 (34) - Turbocharger stepper motor circuit (intermittent fault)

    P1271 - Fuel regulator circuit malfunction. (open/short/failure)

    P1272 - Fuel pressure regulator malfunction (simultaneously with P1271)

    P1601 (89) - Injector correction circuit (E-prom)

    P1611 (17) - ECM run pulse.

    P2008 (58) - Intake manifold runner control circuit (open/short/failure)

    P2120 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor D (open/short/fail)

    P2121 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor D (range/performance)

    P2122 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor D low input.

    P2123 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor D input high.

    P2125 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor E (open/short/fail)

    P2127 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor E low input.

    P2128 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor E high input.

    P2138 (19) - Throttle/pedal position sensor D and E voltage correlation.

    P2226 (105) - ECM barometric pressure circuit.

    P2228 (105) - ECM barometric pressure circuit low input.

    P2229 (105) - ECM barometric pressure circuit high input.

    U0001 (102) - ECM open or short.

    B2799 (99) - Engine immobilizer malfunction.



    Mick
    1KZ-TE Turbo Diesel, 5 speed manual, 3.5 inch lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson MTZ, D-Tronic chip, Boost controller, mandrel exhaust, dump pipe, modified intake, ARB steel bar, Magnum winch, Safari snorkel, rear drawers, half cargo barrier, dual batteries, Uniden UHF, Sat Nav, reverse camera, Magellan XL , Tjm bash plates, ARB alloy roof rack, rear telescopic work light and numerous other modifications!!!
    Now with 3BAR MAP sensor & 18PSI Boost!

  2. #2
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    Re: How to read ECU fault codes. 1KZ-TE

    Good one MickL. Will print this and put in glovebox with a paperclip.......

    This is pretty much the same technology that has been on petrol ECU systems for last 20 yrs, used by Holden, Nissan etc.
    Commodores started with the VK Commodores in 1984, and has been slowly evolving over the years, and soon found itself on just about everything, including trucks, tractors, earthmoving machinary etc.
    Cheers

    Daz

    2004 TD GXL Auto Prado

  3. #3
    Avid PP Poster! joey's Avatar
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    Re: How to read ECU fault codes. 1KZ-TE

    Thanks Mick,

    top bit of information mate .this will be real handy especially with the boost mods and additions...

    thanks

    joey
    Featured - issue 140 Australian 4wd Action.
    -issue 52 Modified 4wds .
    Locked ,Lifted, boosted Brut---"Pradzilla".
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  4. #4
    Addicted PP Member MickL's Avatar
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    Re: How to read ECU fault codes. 1KZ-TE

    I'll do the same write for the petrol and d4d engines when I get all the codes together and time :!:

    Hopefully a helpfull resource.

    Mick
    1KZ-TE Turbo Diesel, 5 speed manual, 3.5 inch lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson MTZ, D-Tronic chip, Boost controller, mandrel exhaust, dump pipe, modified intake, ARB steel bar, Magnum winch, Safari snorkel, rear drawers, half cargo barrier, dual batteries, Uniden UHF, Sat Nav, reverse camera, Magellan XL , Tjm bash plates, ARB alloy roof rack, rear telescopic work light and numerous other modifications!!!
    Now with 3BAR MAP sensor & 18PSI Boost!

  5. #5
    Addicted PP Member MickL's Avatar
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    Re: How to read ECU fault codes. 1KZ-TE & D4D

    Updated with D4D engine management codes....


    Transmission/ABS/SRS/A.C codes to follow.....

    Mick
    1KZ-TE Turbo Diesel, 5 speed manual, 3.5 inch lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson MTZ, D-Tronic chip, Boost controller, mandrel exhaust, dump pipe, modified intake, ARB steel bar, Magnum winch, Safari snorkel, rear drawers, half cargo barrier, dual batteries, Uniden UHF, Sat Nav, reverse camera, Magellan XL , Tjm bash plates, ARB alloy roof rack, rear telescopic work light and numerous other modifications!!!
    Now with 3BAR MAP sensor & 18PSI Boost!

  6. #6

    Re: How to read ECU fault codes. 1KZ-TE & D4D

    Hi Mick,

    Thanks very much for this. I think it would be desirable to jumper from pins 4 to 13 before power is applied in order to mitigate against a short circuit. Do you see any problem with this change in the sequence? I too will put a copy of your work in the glovebox.

    Regards
    Glenn

  7. #7
    Addicted PP Member MickL's Avatar
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    Re: How to read ECU fault codes. 1KZ-TE & D4D

    I think it would be desirable to jumper from pins 4 to 13 before power is applied in order to mitigate against a short circuit. Do you see any problem with this change in the sequence
    The sequence is as per "Toyota" specify.

    The only issue I can see is powering up with the jumper wire in place is that that may in its self cause a fault code, but I would have to test that theory.

    One of the pins is an earth and one is the powered up diagnostic circuit. By adding the jumper wire you are completing the circuit so there is not really a potential for a short circuit as such, the diagnostic circut also is very low current drawing (milliamps) so there is no chance of arcing either. Most of the other pins are not connected (blank) and the connector is numbered also, so getting it wrong would be quite unlikely.

    I'll get a better picture of the plug so it is clear which pins are which.


    Mick
    1KZ-TE Turbo Diesel, 5 speed manual, 3.5 inch lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson MTZ, D-Tronic chip, Boost controller, mandrel exhaust, dump pipe, modified intake, ARB steel bar, Magnum winch, Safari snorkel, rear drawers, half cargo barrier, dual batteries, Uniden UHF, Sat Nav, reverse camera, Magellan XL , Tjm bash plates, ARB alloy roof rack, rear telescopic work light and numerous other modifications!!!
    Now with 3BAR MAP sensor & 18PSI Boost!

  8. #8
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    Hi Mick, Any chance you can get the photos to work again for this? just had my light come up after cleaning my throttle body and want to know what its for. cheers

  9. #9
    Addicted PP Member MickL's Avatar
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    Hi Barken,

    Sorry I didn't reply, I've been out of the Pradopoint loop for some time. Looks like my Photobucket account is cactus. I assume that by now you have sorted your issues, if not drop me a PM with your Email address.

    Regards,

    Mick
    1KZ-TE Turbo Diesel, 5 speed manual, 3.5 inch lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson MTZ, D-Tronic chip, Boost controller, mandrel exhaust, dump pipe, modified intake, ARB steel bar, Magnum winch, Safari snorkel, rear drawers, half cargo barrier, dual batteries, Uniden UHF, Sat Nav, reverse camera, Magellan XL , Tjm bash plates, ARB alloy roof rack, rear telescopic work light and numerous other modifications!!!
    Now with 3BAR MAP sensor & 18PSI Boost!

  10. #10
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    Hey Mick, you coming back into the circle or just popped in to say g'day?
    2004 Silver GXL 3lt 4spd Auto - ARB Bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Redarc Dual Battery System, BFG ATR, Dark Tint, IPF900XS spots, Raised Bilstein/Kings Suspension/Firestone Airbags, Autosafe Cargo Barrier, Sandgrabbers, Rola Roof Rack Stuff, Insect Screen, Dust/Wind Deflectors, Sheepskin/Black Duck Seatcovers, GME TX3510, ARB Recovery gear, ARB Awning, ARB underbonnet compressor, Allied Hammer Rims, ARB UVP, ARB Fridge, AJ Sliders

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    It would be good to see you back on here Mick.
    The Roo.

  12. #12
    Hi All,

    Has anyone had a fault code starting with "C" not "P" for a D4D using the scan gauge?

    I had trouble starting mine before, pressed start button and it would flash green but not start. After a few tries it started and now is logging a lot of fault code events.

    Cheers

    Dave


    Cheers

    Dave

  13. #13
    Member Hibbo's Avatar
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    Hi Dave,

    My partner had a corolla with the push start button, and there was a time when she pushed the button, the car tried to start but didn't. after a few attempts, the battery went flat. Turns out it was flooded! Don't know if this can happen to the D4Ds', just thought that maybe its something that could happen to these new "key less" start buttons??

  14. #14
    Hi Hibbo,

    Thanks for the reply, it turns out that any code starting with C is related to the chassis where P is only for the engine.

    The tech guys aren't sure, once I started it a second time it stopped throwing fault codes. They claim they have had an issue when steering wheels are locked on at full lock.. Time will tell, I just hope it's not when we are half way across the Simmo!!

    Cheers

    Dave


    Quote Originally Posted by Hibbo View Post
    Hi Dave,

    My partner had a corolla with the push start button, and there was a time when she pushed the button, the car tried to start but didn't. after a few attempts, the battery went flat. Turns out it was flooded! Don't know if this can happen to the D4Ds', just thought that maybe its something that could happen to these new "key less" start buttons??

  15. #15
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    And thus, one of the problems with the modern day 4wd vehicles. That's why for a good condition diesel 80 you are paying upwards of $20,000 still on the secondhand market.
    The Roo.

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