Stewy's 08 D4D

[Madkore Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Madkore]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

Great stuff stewy!

Unlike most you have waited til the end to do the suspension, which is the correct thing to do so you have all the extra weight sorted.

[OldGreyGuy Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close OldGreyGuy]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

Great stuff stewy!

Unlike most you have waited til the end to do the suspension, which is the correct thing to do so you have all the extra weight sorted.

Exactly! That is my plan as well.

OldGreyGuy

[stewy Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close stewy]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

Thanks Madkore.

I must admit that I didn't plan the suspension that way, but what you have said makes good sense.

I figured it was just about time to do it, as I had worked out the parts required for the OME setup from talking to lots of people and from the good people on this forum.
PP has been a wealth of knowledge with the different suspension setups.
The fellow at ARB just confimed my findings with what to go with.

I learnt that the 896 rear springs have 2 possibilites for shocks.
The 60004 and the 60005. I went with the 60005 as it has heavier valving.
I carry a bit of weight all the time so the 60005 shocks should be just O.K. , and hope it won't be too stiff.
The real benefit will come into effect when I load up for trips, as I carry about 40-60kg on the roof and the rear is heavier with a fridge and other camping gear.
It's so close - now that the parts have ordered. I can't wait to fit it all up.

Depending on how it all looks after the install and a short test drive, we may even use spacers in the front to lift the nose if need be, as I want it to be as level as possible.


Cheers

[Sunday Member Find all posts View Profile Close Sunday]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

Stewy, I've really enjoyed this whole build-up thread, you've given me some great ideas! I agree you're doing your suspension at the right end of the build up. Just curious: did you consider OME895 & 60004 with airbags to assist before deciding on the OME896 / 60005 combo for the rear end?

I've decided to go for the former combo (will be fitted up in a couple of weeks time I hope) because most of my running will be around town (including with little 'uns in the dicky seats from time to time). Then there'll be the few times a year when I hook up the camper trailer, load up the Engel etc. & hit the roads (I'll likely make up an easily removable drawer system & fit a cargo barrier for this). I figure this should give me acceptable lift & slightly firmer, better controlled ride for everyday driving with the airbags to pump up when the load is on.

Acutally, I've probably just answered my own question: given your mods & load will be in situ pretty much all of the time the firmer package will work well for you. I'll be very interested to hear your (no doubt honest) impressions of ride however. I suspect many of the suspension combos featured on the more off-road capable builds on this site would be pretty tiresome for normal urban use...

Cheers,
Sunday

[stewy Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close stewy]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

No worries Sunday. I will give some feedback once fitted.
I really felt that the 896 would be a better fit.
I've heard that airbags will hinder wheel travel somewhat whilst offroad and they will deteriorate if they don't get used.
As I don't tow a camper or van, I didn't consider them at this stage.
The loads I carry day in-day out are the rear draws which happens to be loaded with recovery gear, tools and camping bits and pieces all the time. Another is the AGM Battery. This alone puts it borderline for the 60005 shocks as it was a bit of a toss up for using the 60004 instead. (I hope it won't be too firm)
I do believe it will be the right choice once loaded up for trips.

I have driven LFaR's vehicle and he runs the same rear spring and shock combo with added airbags.
I thought his felt a little firm with the bags at about 5psi with no real weight in rear, but overall it wasn't too bad.

The only downside to fitting up the suspension will be that I will have problems with some undercover carparks and shopping centres around suburbs and the City.
I'll have to measure the new height once its all done and keep it in mind I spose

Cheers

[stewy Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close stewy]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

Build Up - Suspension

:arrow: Next on the list was to fit aftermarket suspension

Fitted up new OME Sports Suspension over the weekend with fellow PP member PML120R.

" Thanks again to Peter for his expert help with this and for doing the fittout "

Parts fitted were :-

90000 OME Sports Struts
884 Front Springs
60005 Rear OME Sports Shocks
896 Rear Springs
Rear Shock Stone Guard Kit

Measurements taken before hand were:-
Front Driver – 745mm
Front Passenger – 740mm
Rear Driver – 750mm
Rear Passenger – 755mm

Note:-This is on 2 full tanks of fuel, the draw system is still full of stuff in the back as it always is,
and a Waeco 60ltr Fridge with half a slab inside, plus the 100amp/hr AGM Battery lives in the rear also

Straight after the lift on terrafirmer the Front measured 820mm,....if only it stayed that way
We took it for a quick spin on the blacktop,... then some dirt roads.

Measurements after a test drive to settle the suspension in, were as follows:-
Front Driver – 801mm
Front Passenger – 796mm
Rear Driver – 830mm
Rear Passenger – 825mm

Averaged Gain Height for Front was 56mm
Averaged Gain Height for Rear was 75mm

:arrow: Post Update - 2/12/09 - 5 days on now and the heights as above hasn't really changed. 8)
The only change I can tell of is that the front has dropped 1mm Left and Right, the rear stayed the same

:arrow: Post Update - 20/1/10 - nearly a couple of months on now and I would think its all settled in a bit more.
Passenger Front - 790mm
Driver Front - 800mm
Passenger Rear - 830mm
Driver Rear - 830mm

Overall I’m very happy with it.
The ride isn’t too firm and feels just right.
The vehicle also corners better with less roll.

Now the Mrs tells me that it needs bigger rubber to fill the guards a bit more.
.........."I have absolutely no problem with doing at"

So long after a several beers and a nights sleep it was time to get the wheels aligned properly.
So it was off to the Steering and Suspension Specialist to get it sorted.

An hour later I returned to get the wheel alignment report.
I was told that the Camber and Castor adjustments were at their maximum limit now.
Aparently, Series 2 Prado’s end up with no more adjustment left in them, where as a Series 1 usually has a little bit more adjustment to go if needed.

Camber, Caster and Toe were all adjusted and is now better than spec.
It was quite clear from the report that the Camber had never been touched from previous wheel alignments.



Here are PICS from the fittout, with Before and After shots.

Pics shown of the front jacked and removing the struts, and Peter hiding in the background.


Comparison of Standard Struts/Springs and OME Nitrocharger Sports Struts and Springs.


Front Springs compressed and almost ready to install


Below is the comparison of the standard Tojo rear spring against the OME 896 Springs.
Note the difference in thickness of the coil.
That red dirt is left overs from the 2009GTG,... I'm still getting it out of car.



Rear Shock and Spring fitted up with Stone Guards on.



Some more pics from front on

Before


and After OME fitted.


Side on Front Before


and After



Rear Before


Rear After OME Fitted



Overall PIC of car before suspension fitted


Here is after OME fitted.





It's also worth mentioning that the overall height from ground to top of the roof rails is 1.95mtrs.
This was taken after the initial settling in.
It may drop a little further in weeks to come.

The new suspension now makes some undercover parking spots I visit a big no no, as some I used to use are only 1.85mtrs.
......But its a compromise I was willing to make.

Cheers

[stewy Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close stewy]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

:arrow: i-pod interface to suit 120series with 6disc stacker

I figured it was about time to do someting new to the Prado, as it has been a while since my last post to my build up page.

Over the past few weeks I've been following a thread on this forum from Travelman, regarding an ipod interface for the 120series.

I figured that having an i-pod interface would be handy, as it would be be a better way than just running the stereo cable to the front face of the stereo unit.

I was also starting to get annoyed when I went to use the i-pod in the car, as it was :-

1. usually flat, from the Mrs using it and not re-charging it
2. trying to muck around with the correct balance of volume between the stereo and i-pod can be a pain
3. track selection when driving can be a hassel.

This new interface seemed that it would fix all of this and do the trick.

The interface plugs direclty into the back of the factory unit and allows you to charge the i-pod as well as giving you control over the i-pod from the stereo itself, ie. volume adjustment and track selection.

The company thats sells them just recently listed this new interface for Toyota models that have the 6disc stacker for the factory unit.
I checked out all the details for the product and sent them an email just to confirm if it would suit the Prado.
They responded quickly saying yes it would, providing the factory unit had no SatNav.
As I have a GXL,.... this was no problem, so I ordered one.

You can check out the product on this website carIPODcables

It arrived yesterday so I openned it all up and began the installation. See below for how I installed it, then connected it to my i-pod Nano




There's quite a few cables inside but you will only use 2.
1 for the connection to the stereo and the 2nd is the i-pod cable itself



Step 1- Make sure the IGNITION ACCESSORY is Off and set about pulling the centre dash apart, I've done this b4 so I know how to go about it this time.
Remove the silver plastic panels on each side of the console.

Tip - You can do this by lifting the bottom corners around the shifter and carefully pulling up to release the clips.
Don't worry if they are tight, they are meant to be, and will pop to release.

You can then remove the plastic surround where the air vents are, they will pop and the vents come out as one.
Just remeber to unclip the hazzard light button and the other switch on the opposite side.





Step2 - unscrew the four nuts surrouding the stereo, then take out the ash tray and unclip that panel section.
Note: You will aslo notice a large eletrical plug in the bottom left corner with a screw in the midde. It also has a white cover.

Unscrew this one aswell and pull the end of the plug towards you to release it.
You can now pull the whole unit forward a bit to access the rear of the stereo.








Step3 - Grab this cable and connect the white end to the back of the stereo. There is only 1 spot for it.








Step4 - Once plugged in, you now have to work out where to run the cable to. :?:

This depends on the where you want the i-pod to live.
You could go either in the glove box or somewhere around the dash etc.

:idea: I decided that I wanted to run it to the centre console storage compartment,
so I ran the cable across the back of the stereo to the left and tested the connections with the i-pod Nano to see if it would work.




Step5 - put the stereo back in temporarily, and plug it all in.
Note: - remember to plug in that big plug in the bottom left corner and put the scew back in or the stereo won't work.






Step6 - Turn on Ignition Accessory, the Stereo and press the Disc button twice, make sure you hit PLAY on your i-pod.

You can now select tracks and control the volume from the steering wheel controls or the stereo itself.

Alright, turn it all off and disconnect the i-pod and the control box.


Step7 - Run the cable down the left side until it pops out at the bottom of the console.




Step8 - I wanted to use the center console to keep the i-pod stored away.
I removed everything from the storage compartment then unscrewed the 2 screws at the bottom and lifted the console a bit to feel around underneath.

The aircon pipes and some electrical is under this,.. so be carefull.

I drilled a 12mm hole then ran the i-pod cable through, and sealed up the hole with a rubber grommet, just to keep it neat and tidy .






Step9 - Lift the console again and feed the i-pod cable through underneath and pop it out the left side around where the front left seat is.

You can now screw everything back into place, screw the stereo in fully, and put all the plastic surrounds and ash tray back into place.


Step10 - Plug the black box into both cables ends and hide it by positioning it behind the side of the center console away from harm.





Hide it fully behind the the trim.

Job is now done... Enjoy

cheers

[Schaffer Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Schaffer]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

Good job there Stewy. Looks nice and neat and professional. Best of all the ipod is kept out of prying eyes

[bolo125 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close bolo125]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

Stew,

Are you still able to use your CD stacker?? Or does this interface goes in the place where the stacker connection should be going?

If so how do you use the new interface? change disc to '7'?

[Schaffer Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Schaffer]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

Stew,

Are you still able to use your CD stacker?? Or does this interface goes in the place where the stacker connection should be going?

If so how do you use the new interface? change disc to '7'?

I believe there is an additional socket in the back of the head unit and from memory you press the CD button once to select the CD input and a second time to select the alternative input (in this case the ipod)

[stewy Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close stewy]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

Yes Bolo125,

Schaffer is correct.

It doesn't interfere with the 6Disc CD stack function at all.
The cable is connected to a spare socket in the back of the stereo unit.
You press the Disc Button once for CD use, press it again and it switches to the IPOD.
Best of all you can control volume and track changes from the steering wheel controls also.

I've been playing with it today and noticed that the IPOD turns off when not in use and will pause where it was up to when you switch stereo modes or turn the ignition off.

cheers

[bolo125 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close bolo125]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

thanks Stewy...I see you're into Eric Clapton

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

Nice job - just got the Nano for my birthday and didn't want any unnecessary brackets.

Looks like you got the free steak - knife with the kit too!

[LiveFreeAndRoam Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LiveFreeAndRoam]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

Very nice job Stewy... You've been busy.

Cool step-by-step picture guide too, even a blind-man could follow that 8) .

LFaR.

[404pug Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 404pug]

Re: Stewy's 08 D4D

Great instructions-just put mine in and it works a treat.I found it was best to take the plastic surrounds off from the top rather than the bottom. I had 1 worry when I found an extra plug floating around behind the radio [covered in foamy stuff and looking like a radio antenna plug.There was nowhere to plug it in so I could not find where it puilled out from. Hmmm. but everything works-AM, FM, all 6 discs in the stacker.And best of all the iPod works fine with great sound. The company was good to deal with- answered emails etc and 2 days from order to fitted into car!Neil