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In 2008, I traded in my LowLux on a new 08 GXL D4D 6spd manual.
After much consultation with Nissan and Toyota, and with persuasion from the Mrs.
The Prado seemed to make a good all-round 4x4 and was the preferred choice.
My old Hilux was a 2005 V6 4.0ltr SR Manual Dual Cab. It was a great 4x4 vehicle with plenty of load carrying for camping etc.
The Prado on the other hand was more comfortable and had the long range tanks for some serious touring that myself and Mrs were keen to undertake in the near future.
I went from this
To This
So far the add-ons include:-
:arrow: ARB Deluxe Winch Bar with IPF Fog Lights
:arrow: IPF 900XS Spots (converted to HID)
:arrow: Navman N40i GPS
:arrow: UHF GME 3400TX for communications
:arrow: Safari Snorkel
:arrow: Colour Coded Hard Cover for the spare
:arrow: Typhoon twin cylinder air compressor
:arrow: Rust Proofing
:arrow: Electronic Rust Protection
:arrow: Hot wired 50amp Anderson Plug fuzzed at 10amps to run external lights etc.
:arrow: Factory tow bar
In the future, I’ll fit a few more accessories just to make things a bit comfortable and to enhance the cars 4x4 capabilities off-road.
:arrow: Cargo Drawers
:arrow: Upgrade the suspension
:arrow: Beefier AT Rubber
:arrow: AGM Auxiliary Battery
:arrow: Ranox charging system
:arrow: Fridge/Freezer
:arrow: Rhino roof cross bars
:arrow: Rhino Rack
:arrow: Pullout roof awning
UHF Install
The first option to fit after I picked it up was to install the old GME UHF 3400 radio from the Hilux.
It took a while to run the coax and cables, mount the antenna etc. But I finally settled on a spot below the CD/Radio. The area marked in the red box is where it lives.
I had to remove most of the dash to fit it, but it now real tight in there and aint moving. The speaker is very audible when driving.
As seen below.
You can also see where I mounted the remote face and mic holder. All of this was secured without drilling any new holes.
I just used the vehicles existing switch blanks, some double sided tape here and there and zip ties.
The mic holder is screwed into place but the screws locate to some thin metal plate behind the plastic trim.
This way I can remove the hole thing, put the blank switch back in, and you wouldn't even know anything was there.
As I usually only hold onto cars for 3-4yrs, I may want to remove the accessories I’ve fitted in the future.
Dealers don't like the look of drilled holes in trim etc and will affect the tradein value.
50amp Anderson Plug Install
The next thing to do was add an Anderson Plug to the rear.
Its a 50amp hot connection straight to the battery. I’ve fuzzed it at 10amps as its only to run the air mattress pump, lights etc.
The whole thing runs through the chassis rails and is protected PVC tape, split tubing, and sealed with silicon.
IPF900XS Install with HID Mod
I purchased a pair of IPF900 XS Spots and wired them up with the Loom kit provided.
After having them for 2 months I decided to modify them to HID.
I wasn’t concerned with heat etc from the HID’s as the IPF are a very strong and well built light.
My only concern was with reliability after the conversion. I discussed the HID kits available with fellow PP member CRAMMY.
After looking at his install it all seemed very easy. And it was very simple! Below are the pics for converting the Halogens to HID.
Bought the kit off e-bay and landed it hear in Oz for about $150 which included the extra silicon high voltage cables.
You need longer cables because the Ballasts are under the bonnet and the lights on the Bullbar.
The only difficulty I had was getting the cables to the back of the light casing. I didn’t want to cut the wires like Crammy did,
so I removed the grommet and filed the casing a liitle to create a larger hole to feed the wire connectors through.
After fitting the new grommet in place, I sealed it with silicon.
Now it’s ready for install
To fit the Ballasts I decided to make up a metal bracket and secured the ballasts to it and mounted it to the area where a second battery could go.
I didn’t drill any holes, but just used the existing threaded holes. I’ve used all stainless steel bolts and washes.
I’ve tested them and am pleased with the result. Well worth the $150 spent.
I’ve used them on an off over the last 4 months and they still seem to be reliable as ever.
Below are shots of HID in action over the standard IPF Halogens
Picked a clear road as seen here in daylight.
The distance to the T intersection at the end of the road is just over 400mtrs
Here is the same pic done earlier with the standard IPF 900XS Halogens
Now the same photo in HID
Headliner Rattle Fix
I had an annoying rattle at times from around the Sunglass Holder/ Map lights.
I’d press on it and the noise would go away for while, but then return.
To finally fix it, I removed the Holder as seen. Just pull down and it will pop out
I bought an off cut of foam from Clark Rubber for $3, cut out small pieces around 10x15cm and folded it up into place all around the headliner cavity.
Lastly, I stuck some thick spongy rubber onto the back where the map lights are. This will press up against the metal bracket to take out any rattles that could be coming from here also.
Just make sure not to use foam directly near the lights bulbs and connections.
I think the foam I packed into the front cavity at the headlining of the windscreen fix was the real fix.
Cargo Drawers Install and build
Dec 2008 / Jan 2009
Cargo drawers are still to be made. I picked up these T Locks and 90kg slides.
The Slides are 700mm to 1420mm and heavy duty. All to do now is assemble and carpet it.
Should have it ready for the 2009 GTG.
Feb 2009 - picks still to post
With the final plans almost finished for overall design. I descided to pull my finger out and do some work over the weekend.
So far I've managed to put the base frame together. After mesasuring and re-measuring, this is what I've come up with so far.
The total depth is 1000mm and 1050mm wide. The draw cavity is 320mm high. I've tried to utilise all the available space for deeper draws.
All to now is put the top on and incorporate the fridge slide into the top lid.
I'll also be installing a pull out table into base, and using it for quick food preparation.
Landcruiser Park – 09 New Years Day
Spent 4 days over the New Years break at Landcruiser Park
Check out the rear flex
Also thought you might find this interesting. On new years day we recovered an 04 Nissan Patrol 3.0 Diesel from the location named
"Head of Brisbane River" at Landcruiser Park.
I watched in dismay as this fellow drove straight in without checking the depth.
It turns out he was travelling alone and was a real novice. (never 4wheeled before)
:arrow: The big fella in Black is the Submarine Captain
The Diesel took and absolute gob full of water.
After we recovered it we then drained the fuel from the filter and re-primed with fresh fuel.
The filter box was soaking wet and full of brackish water.
We tried to start it but the motor wouldn’t even try to turn.
Later we found that the vehicle was written off by his insurer from water and electrical damage.
The fellow had owned it for only 2 weeks and was his first time out. It was $30k well spent.
After much consultation with Nissan and Toyota, and with persuasion from the Mrs.
The Prado seemed to make a good all-round 4x4 and was the preferred choice.
My old Hilux was a 2005 V6 4.0ltr SR Manual Dual Cab. It was a great 4x4 vehicle with plenty of load carrying for camping etc.
The Prado on the other hand was more comfortable and had the long range tanks for some serious touring that myself and Mrs were keen to undertake in the near future.
I went from this
To This
So far the add-ons include:-
:arrow: ARB Deluxe Winch Bar with IPF Fog Lights
:arrow: IPF 900XS Spots (converted to HID)
:arrow: Navman N40i GPS
:arrow: UHF GME 3400TX for communications
:arrow: Safari Snorkel
:arrow: Colour Coded Hard Cover for the spare
:arrow: Typhoon twin cylinder air compressor
:arrow: Rust Proofing
:arrow: Electronic Rust Protection
:arrow: Hot wired 50amp Anderson Plug fuzzed at 10amps to run external lights etc.
:arrow: Factory tow bar
In the future, I’ll fit a few more accessories just to make things a bit comfortable and to enhance the cars 4x4 capabilities off-road.
:arrow: Cargo Drawers
:arrow: Upgrade the suspension
:arrow: Beefier AT Rubber
:arrow: AGM Auxiliary Battery
:arrow: Ranox charging system
:arrow: Fridge/Freezer
:arrow: Rhino roof cross bars
:arrow: Rhino Rack
:arrow: Pullout roof awning
UHF Install
The first option to fit after I picked it up was to install the old GME UHF 3400 radio from the Hilux.
It took a while to run the coax and cables, mount the antenna etc. But I finally settled on a spot below the CD/Radio. The area marked in the red box is where it lives.
I had to remove most of the dash to fit it, but it now real tight in there and aint moving. The speaker is very audible when driving.
As seen below.
You can also see where I mounted the remote face and mic holder. All of this was secured without drilling any new holes.
I just used the vehicles existing switch blanks, some double sided tape here and there and zip ties.
The mic holder is screwed into place but the screws locate to some thin metal plate behind the plastic trim.
This way I can remove the hole thing, put the blank switch back in, and you wouldn't even know anything was there.
As I usually only hold onto cars for 3-4yrs, I may want to remove the accessories I’ve fitted in the future.
Dealers don't like the look of drilled holes in trim etc and will affect the tradein value.
50amp Anderson Plug Install
The next thing to do was add an Anderson Plug to the rear.
Its a 50amp hot connection straight to the battery. I’ve fuzzed it at 10amps as its only to run the air mattress pump, lights etc.
The whole thing runs through the chassis rails and is protected PVC tape, split tubing, and sealed with silicon.
IPF900XS Install with HID Mod
I purchased a pair of IPF900 XS Spots and wired them up with the Loom kit provided.
After having them for 2 months I decided to modify them to HID.
I wasn’t concerned with heat etc from the HID’s as the IPF are a very strong and well built light.
My only concern was with reliability after the conversion. I discussed the HID kits available with fellow PP member CRAMMY.
After looking at his install it all seemed very easy. And it was very simple! Below are the pics for converting the Halogens to HID.
Bought the kit off e-bay and landed it hear in Oz for about $150 which included the extra silicon high voltage cables.
You need longer cables because the Ballasts are under the bonnet and the lights on the Bullbar.
The only difficulty I had was getting the cables to the back of the light casing. I didn’t want to cut the wires like Crammy did,
so I removed the grommet and filed the casing a liitle to create a larger hole to feed the wire connectors through.
After fitting the new grommet in place, I sealed it with silicon.
Now it’s ready for install
To fit the Ballasts I decided to make up a metal bracket and secured the ballasts to it and mounted it to the area where a second battery could go.
I didn’t drill any holes, but just used the existing threaded holes. I’ve used all stainless steel bolts and washes.
I’ve tested them and am pleased with the result. Well worth the $150 spent.
I’ve used them on an off over the last 4 months and they still seem to be reliable as ever.
Below are shots of HID in action over the standard IPF Halogens
Picked a clear road as seen here in daylight.
The distance to the T intersection at the end of the road is just over 400mtrs
Here is the same pic done earlier with the standard IPF 900XS Halogens
Now the same photo in HID
Headliner Rattle Fix
I had an annoying rattle at times from around the Sunglass Holder/ Map lights.
I’d press on it and the noise would go away for while, but then return.
To finally fix it, I removed the Holder as seen. Just pull down and it will pop out
I bought an off cut of foam from Clark Rubber for $3, cut out small pieces around 10x15cm and folded it up into place all around the headliner cavity.
Lastly, I stuck some thick spongy rubber onto the back where the map lights are. This will press up against the metal bracket to take out any rattles that could be coming from here also.
Just make sure not to use foam directly near the lights bulbs and connections.
I think the foam I packed into the front cavity at the headlining of the windscreen fix was the real fix.
Cargo Drawers Install and build
Dec 2008 / Jan 2009
Cargo drawers are still to be made. I picked up these T Locks and 90kg slides.
The Slides are 700mm to 1420mm and heavy duty. All to do now is assemble and carpet it.
Should have it ready for the 2009 GTG.
Feb 2009 - picks still to post
With the final plans almost finished for overall design. I descided to pull my finger out and do some work over the weekend.
So far I've managed to put the base frame together. After mesasuring and re-measuring, this is what I've come up with so far.
The total depth is 1000mm and 1050mm wide. The draw cavity is 320mm high. I've tried to utilise all the available space for deeper draws.
All to now is put the top on and incorporate the fridge slide into the top lid.
I'll also be installing a pull out table into base, and using it for quick food preparation.
Landcruiser Park – 09 New Years Day
Spent 4 days over the New Years break at Landcruiser Park
Check out the rear flex
Also thought you might find this interesting. On new years day we recovered an 04 Nissan Patrol 3.0 Diesel from the location named
"Head of Brisbane River" at Landcruiser Park.
I watched in dismay as this fellow drove straight in without checking the depth.
It turns out he was travelling alone and was a real novice. (never 4wheeled before)
:arrow: The big fella in Black is the Submarine Captain
The Diesel took and absolute gob full of water.
After we recovered it we then drained the fuel from the filter and re-primed with fresh fuel.
The filter box was soaking wet and full of brackish water.
We tried to start it but the motor wouldn’t even try to turn.
Later we found that the vehicle was written off by his insurer from water and electrical damage.
The fellow had owned it for only 2 weeks and was his first time out. It was $30k well spent.
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