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  • #31
    I have a Jan 07 D4D. I first noticed the knocking about 12 months ago when i had covered about 5,000Ks and only on cold mornings and for the first 5 minutes. It does make you want to ease off on the throttle though.

    Here are two other threads on the topic. When i raised it 12 months ago, it seemed that not many had encountered the problem and certainly Toyota were of no help. But now it looks like a few more of us have experienced the problem. I have now covered 35,000 and the car is going beautifully except for this knocking that i get in winter down here in Melb in the first few minutes. I can live with it but it just doesn't seem quite right!

    http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php ... highlight=

    http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?t=629
    2007 GX D4D Auto, 694s, Tint, Dual Batts, long ranger water tank, IPF Fatboys, Brown Davis bash plate, ScanGauge2, Safari Snorkel, Sovereign Bullbar, ARB lift kit

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    • #32
      any one with a white prado with this problem have a look at the rear bumper near the exhast tip. I have a quite ugly and visible dark gray/ gold residue in a 5" arc just left of the pipe. The car was washed two weeks ago and this is the first time i have seen it. I think the combustion problem when cold is causing it.
      I spoke to a bloke a few weeks ago thats got a white Audi 4x4 , it had two huge dark patched on the rear bumper, he said the Audi dealer has told him its our OZ diesel.

      I'm expecting a phone call from Mobil ( APCO sells Mobil diesel) today telling me when/if they swapped to winter diesel this year.

      Toyota have asked me to change to another fuel brand. The dealer has also given me a bottle of an aditive to try after the next tank of fuel.
      2007 120 D4D VX Auto.
      1985 LWB Suzuki Sierra 1600.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by Walter
        One other thing I have noticed is that since the knocking started my idle speed when the motor is cold is 1200rpm, and when warmed up it is the usual 700 rpm. Has really only done this for the last 2500km
        You sure you haven't got the "Idle up" button pushed in? This is how I start mine every cold morning.
        VX D4D

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        • #34
          Well there you go....

          My first response was "what idle up button?". So off to the garage, out came the manual, found the button, and yes it was pushed in....

          Will check it in the morning (cold start) but I guess problem hopefully solved.

          Many thanks

          Ron
          07 Prado GXL, D4D manual, silver ash, Sovereign bullbar, towbar, spotties, dual batts, BFG A/T, sunroof, TXE 4400, window tints, headlight & bonnet protectors, floor mats, Navman MY60T, 2" Ultimate suspension, Polyairs, snorkel

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          • #35
            Apco said that Mobil had not yet changed to winter diesel. I did find out that there are infact 3 diesels sold in oz.
            Summer , winter and alpine.
            The summer diesel has a cloud temperature of -1 DegC ( it will start to get suspended waxy solids at that temp and look cloudy).
            There is also Winter diesel ( temp ?)
            and Alpine diesel ( sold in a few stations up in the slow areas).

            Interesting reading extracts from the diesel standard AS 3570-1998.
            OZ has some 12 diesel zones and temperatures for different cloudpoints linked to the months of the year.
            Our huge 180+ liter tanks must be a worry to the motor companies , briving from Bris' to Mt Buller with the same tank of diesel in two days.

            Neither Caltex or Mobil are aware of any problems with diesel in OZ this year ( other than a localised problem 8 or 9 weeks ago with alge in a Biodiesel).

            Toyota have asked me to change to another brand of diesel for 3 tanks. The dealer has also given me two bottles of toyota "jetstream" injector cleaner to add after the first tank has been used.

            Last time i drove the prado it made the noise at 13 DegC water and air temp. Thats not low at all !.
            2007 120 D4D VX Auto.
            1985 LWB Suzuki Sierra 1600.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by Walter
              Well there you go....

              My first response was "what idle up button?". So off to the garage, out came the manual, found the button, and yes it was pushed in....

              Will check it in the morning (cold start) but I guess problem hopefully solved.

              Many thanks

              Ron
              Ron, since I started using the idle up button over the last week I have noticed that the engine isn't as noisy in the morning now & quietens down a lot quicker.
              Its still more noisy than normal but it doesn't sound like its going to blow itself to bits.
              2007 D4D auto, Tunit Power Module, Scan GaugeII, Bilsteins & lovels HD, raised 50mm front & 60mm rear, 10,000lb Tmax winch, 7/16th Amsteelblue synthetic 23,000lb winch cable, TiTan HD winch solenoid pack, Outback draws with fridge slide & 50 litre Waeco, Ryno roof rack & Alloy Cage & extra set of Rhino HD Roof bars x 3, TJM type 15 steel Bullbar powder coated silver, Dual battery setup with custom tray, Bosch Navigator spots with 55w HID kit, Sand Grabber mats, Toyota Tow Bar, Sensor Touch Electric Brakes, Cooper ST 265/70/17 tyres, Uniden remote head UHF radio, Modified Milford Cargo Barrier, Extra power points in the back run with 10mm wire for fridge & inverter, Anderson plugs with 10mm wire front & back for the camper & compresor conections. 7 inch in dash JVC DVD player with bluetooth & Ipod adaptor, 39DB Stebel High Power TM80/2 Magnum Electric Horns. JL Audio 300/4, 300/2 power amps, Pioneer TS-C160R front splits & TS-D161S rear speakers & 12" Pioneer sub

              Still need to fit some heavy duty engine & transmision gaurds, snorkel. 9inch headrest monitors

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              • #37
                My Prado started the knock/rattle as early as 6000 k's. Could be coincidental that its happened due to the cooler weather starting. In the short term, I've resolved the issue by a adding LiquiMoly Fuel additive from Germany. It's a diesel anti-knock formulation (ie. improves the cetane rating of the fuel) with a mild injector cleaner. Stopped the rattle pretty much straight away. Not cheap though, approximately $20 to treat our 180 ltr fuel tank, each time!

                cheers
                Mardo
                08 D4D Auto

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                • #38
                  I've also noticed a bit of a rattle in the morning when I start the car. Like some said, I started to notice it maybe after 10,000km and as the temps were starting to get a bit colder. I almost always start the car and let it idle for at least 10 mins to get the eng temp up before I drive. I use the idle up switch. I find the rattle doesnt last for long. I've just put it down to the Diesel engine. This is my first oiler so I havent really got anything else to compare. I'll still mention it though at the next service.

                  Mark

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                  • #39
                    I phoned Mobil and caltex today who both said they are following the Australian standard and will have gone to a full winter mix by now. Both quoted this part of Vic to have 0 DegC cloud point mix as per AS 3570-1998.

                    Mardo, I did some reading on cetane ratings of diesel after your post. Its a bit of a worry that some of our local diesel brands are quoting a cetane number of 45 and 46 on their web pages.
                    I have just looked at the prado book that says we must use diesel of 50 or above. BP is the only one that i can see has 50 or above Cetane diesel??

                    The Europeans have a minimum requirement of 51. Even more of a worry is that many countries have standard diesel and premium diesel. I bet the later is more $$$ and will be the fix for out problem.
                    2007 120 D4D VX Auto.
                    1985 LWB Suzuki Sierra 1600.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally posted by Zukjeff
                      I phoned Mobil and caltex today who both said they are following the Australian standard and will have gone to a full winter mix by now. Both quoted this part of Vic to have 0 DegC cloud point mix as per AS 3570-1998.

                      Mardo, I did some reading on cetane ratings of diesel after your post. Its a bit of a worry that some of our local diesel brands are quoting a cetane number of 45 and 46 on their web pages.
                      I have just looked at the prado book that says we must use diesel of 50 or above. BP is the only one that i can see has 50 or above Cetane diesel??

                      The Europeans have a minimum requirement of 51. Even more of a worry is that many countries have standard diesel and premium diesel. I bet the later is more $$$ and will be the fix for out problem.
                      Now I know why mine's not too noisy. I only use BP!
                      VX D4D

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                      • #41
                        After reading the posts regarding cetane readings I checked BPs website and they claim their Diesel has a minimum cetane rating of 46 with a typical rating of 51, not bad.

                        I then checked the Freedom Fuels site, they say their biodiesel exceeds Australian minimum standard for Cetane rating but dont say what rating it has...

                        I'm yet to read up on what Toyota recommend but, from what others are saying, the up to 20% blend might be a bit dodgy for my engine. I'm sticking to BP for now.

                        Cheers

                        Mark

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                        • #42
                          Hi Mark,

                          we all know the greater sensitivity of modern common rail diesels are to fuel quality and it's disappointing that our refineries can't commit to a minimum standard (cetane rating) as per Europe which is why I have resorted to fuel additives. It was amazing the diffenece in smoothness once I added it which leads me to believe that our fuel quality might worse than we think (I only use Shell).

                          An interesting point you made on an earlier post was the warm up time of about 10 minutes. I was always lead to believe that it wasn't good to let a cold diesel engine idle for extended peroids of time with no engine load as these conditions leads to glazing of the bore and higher carbon build up. I was told by a an experienced diesel mechanic that the warm up idle time should just be enough to get oil circulating to all engine parts, then take take slowly and gently to for the first few minutes. The only exception he mentioned was in snowy conditions where the warm up time should be about 2 minutes to ensure (again) appropiate oil circulation.

                          cheers
                          Mardo
                          08 D4D Auto

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                          • #43
                            Mardo,

                            thanks for passing that on to me. This is my first Diesel, so I had no idea about the warm up. Just assumed it was good to let the engine get warm before driving. I might need to change my routine with this. Thanks

                            Mark

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                            • #44
                              Well, this afternoon, I did what I probably should have done a little while ago, I read the manual on starting the vehicle. It confirms what Mardo's mate said. Lesson learnt. I'll be changing my routine from here on. ops:

                              Thanks again for pointing that out Mardo... as they say, you learn something everyday.

                              Cheers

                              Mark

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by mardo
                                which is why I have resorted to fuel additives. It was amazing the diffenece in smoothness once I added it which leads me to believe that our fuel quality might worse than we think (I only use Shell).cheers
                                Mardo
                                Hey Mardo, do you mind telling us which brand fuel additives you use? I am looking to start using some form of additive but undecided which would be the best value for money one available.
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