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  • They do that.
    If one or 2 feedbacks are out they are all worn & stuffed. It just doesn't show up that way.
    Injectors are worn & can be causing rattles & nothing showing up on diagnostics.
    The wear stops them from working properly.

    Lets take it a step further:

    How many Klm's?
    What the total injection volume ? At 25degrees or 30 seconds after start up. & at full temp ?
    What's the main injection period?

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Sumi View Post
      Would it be possible to have -1.5, +2.2, -0.7, +0.2 feedbacks from the ECU but still needing all 4 injectors to be replaced? Took my car to a diesel mechanic, who pulled the injectors and measured it with some equipement I don't know about (some sort of denso bench stuff), and is stating that all 4 are shot and also need a new scv. Could this be possible? Quotes about $2500 for the whole job. Car had engine rattle and fuel line malcfunction error code, and bad black smoking under heavy acceleration also.
      I have a feeling that they're trying to rip me off. (Maybe even billing all injectors but changing only 1 or 2)
      I replaced my injectors with Baileys injectors not long ago and cold rattles is back as bad as it was before I replaced the Injectors. I had the Values checked and they are normal. Was also told as Sumi was that they may read ok but still fail mechanically. I think they are still under Baileys warrenty. Anyone had to go back to baileys with issues????

      Comment


      • I went back to them with smoke on startup. Matt treated me well. Replaced them all for free. Next failure I lost faith and went with Denso ones. (Availability was also an issue at the time)
        Greg - 08 D4D Prado,
        Some trips done - Cape York, Fraser Island, Simpson Desert / Central Aust, Vic High Country.

        Comment


        • As with Corigator, I had go go back as mine starting cold-knocking on the BDG injectors and also plenty of soot on the bumper.

          I wasn't treated as well though and had to put in far more effort to get the warranty honoured. Ended up getting all 4 replaced and also lost faith when they too started to rattle after a short period of time...
          Cheers
          Micheal.

          2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
          2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

          Comment


          • Just wanted to share my story..

            I had my injectors replaced as they're were out of specs. It was fine for a couple of days, but a different type of rattle has started to return, to increase. Also the truck got hard to start after sitting for a couple of hours, had bad consumption and was down on power. I didn't think much about it that time, was thinking that it's probably my mind playing tricks on me. Then this weekend I've checked the oil level, and it was way out of place (around 3x high as the high mark on the dip-stick). Probably because fuel is leaking into the oil. This actually explains all the symptoms above. Sadly though the rattle must be from the now worn engine parts, which is irreversible.
            Thinking about the old feed/return line gaskets were reused and/or not torqued to specs.
            Took it back to the injector service shop, but I doubt they'll buy me a new engine. Probably they'll come up with some BS.

            So this is how to wreck a nice car after spending $2500 on it.

            Cheers

            Comment


            • So they've called me today: They've failed to assemble the return pipe correctly, that caused the diesel leakage. Engine has a bad rattle when hot, they state that the conrod bearings are shot. They also said that because the car has 540k kms on the clock, it would've failed eventually, and they take a maximum of 50% of the responsibility because of the issue. They're now counting together the costs it would take to refurbish the engine, and may share the costs.
              f*ck.

              Comment


              • This injector replacement & related testing while doing the job is a specialist area.
                You need to be careful who you get onto it.
                Part of doing the job properly is the compression test & valve clearance checks.
                Because there is no point spending 2-3-4-5k on an engine that is shot.
                Do we believe its a worn engine? What's the compression readings? Have they even tested it yet?
                Maybe the new injectors were contaminated from their poor fitment procedure.
                Did they use the right parts?
                Did they enter the new compensation codes?
                I have had some with some widely varying compressions & still come up quiet.

                Sorry for your pain, it's a big problem when this job gets messed up.

                Comment


                • Hi All!!
                  I also found that engine rattles while not warm up. This was noising only in winter/autumn(first 5-10 minutes on cold engine) and was fine in summer.
                  I found that rattle begins if air temperature is lower than +20C.
                  So if it is +18C in the morning, then I hear rattle again.

                  By the way, engine heater button algorithm is also tied to +20C.
                  Once upon a time, it was +18C, I was driving with rattle, and I tried to turn-off heater button - and found that rattle becomes more quiet (or different).
                  This was a surprise, because I never tried it.
                  This pushed me to try to turn off air temperature sensor (in front of coolant radiator) - and RATTLE is gone now!
                  Cold engine works smooth, like it is hot.
                  (trip computer does not show outside air temperature now, but there is no error in engine ECU - I checked)

                  As I remember, someone was saying that toyota`s response was:
                  "this is fine, this rattle helps cold diesel engine to become warmer".

                  So it think, I have just deactivated heating program, and probably engine will be heated longer
                  (but anyway - it is better than cracked pistons)

                  By the way, heater button still works, I tried to turn it on while on neutral, and engine speed increased to + 300rpm.

                  Maybe, power of engine is a little bit decreased, I am not sure, maybe it is just my feeling. I will try to turn on/off this sensor to compare how engine runs...
                  (I suspected that turbo boost became a bit lower, but then made some logs before/after with techstream, boost (MAP sensor) looks the same...
                  probably ECU uses other map without that sensor)


                  What do you think?
                  Please try and see if sound of engine changes.
                  Last edited by bad3p; 28-07-2016, 01:04 AM.

                  Comment


                  • Sadly Bad3P, You will need to read this thread to understand the risks of the rattle. - Basically you need to check your injectors to make sure they are not failing. You need to get the feedback values checked to be sure you are not about to have an engine failure.
                    Corigator
                    Avid PP Poster!
                    Last edited by Corigator; 03-08-2016, 08:35 PM.
                    Greg - 08 D4D Prado,
                    Some trips done - Cape York, Fraser Island, Simpson Desert / Central Aust, Vic High Country.

                    Comment


                    • The air temp sensor in front of the radiator is for climate control & nothing to do with engine management.

                      The intake air temp sensor is part of maf sensor. This is used for engine management.

                      Your injectors are wear n tear items. A fresh set is the go. Read on or pop pop pop.......boom.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Anth120playdo View Post

                        Your injectors are wear n tear items. A fresh set is the go. Read on or pop pop pop.......boom.
                        So eloquently put ####.....
                        2010 150 Glacier White GXL D4D Auto

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by TurboD4D View Post
                          I replaced my injectors with Baileys injectors not long ago and cold rattles is back as bad as it was before I replaced the Injectors. I had the Values checked and they are normal. Was also told as Sumi was that they may read ok but still fail mechanically. I think they are still under Baileys warrenty. Anyone had to go back to baileys with issues????
                          Maybe it's a compression problem.
                          I have discovered the seats/sheets being supplied were brass, not copper. They don't always squash & seal.
                          They can leak later, not much later either.


                          Comment


                          • Faulty injectors

                            Where can I find the Toyota recall of fuel injectors for the 3 litre 4d4 ?
                            And also VCAT case against them?
                            Thanks

                            Comment


                            • Just had new Denso injectors fitted to my 2007 Prado,lt rattled worse then when I took it to Toyota,I am familiar with injectors as this is the 3rd complete set fitted, the previous sets 2sets under warranty,the vehicle has 270000kys on it,Toyota are doing the right thing by me at this stage, the injector readings are all in spec when cold,they are going to perform some more tests tomorrow had car for 3days,last resort change them out again, only been in for a week,it was idling rough before the change out,this was fixed for about 2 days, but sadly returned with the rattle. Would I be unlucky to get some faulty injectors from new,they have checked to see that the injectors are the right ones thanking you John.

                              Comment


                              • Friar ask to have your SCV valve check as it might be playing up.

                                Comment

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