Nothing like a quick response. 85 ft/lb seems to be close. Used this for the last 35 years. Never had a wheel stud fail or nut come loose.
Rusty
08 VX D4D, Lift, Safari Snorkle, Trailblazer Fridge, Custom Storeage System, BFG, ARB Safari Bar, Wife, Kids, Codan NGT HF Radio, Debt.
06 100 Series Sahara, Bilteins, Kings, Beaudesert 3", Diff drop, Unichip Q4, Safari Intercooler, EGR delete, 20ft Bushtracker, Codan Envoy more coming.
Sometimes i wake up Grumpy, most times i leave her sleep.
As an aside, the wheelnuts on my GTS are torqued to 190Nm (140ftlb). I usually have the appropriate tools at home but a few weeks ago a mate in the US asked for a closeup shot of the front brakes. I thought hmmm time to see if the supplied jack and wheel spanner are ok to use on the side of the road. My attempt at removing the first wheelnut resulted in the pressed metal wheel spanner looking more like a pretzel than a tool. So it went to land fill and I put my breaker bar and impact socket in the boot. Crazy torque but that is the factory requirement.
My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic
Always did mine at 110nm for years & years. I’m an advocate in most circumstances of torquing things up a little less than the recommended Toyota spec. I hate it when I get new tyres fitted or a wheel alignment done, then when back at home I’m correcting the way over torqued wheels nuts. What brought this about is many years previously with a previous car, a mechanic snapped a wheel stud during a service. When I came in pick the car up I was going to be charged for the replacement stud. I stuck to my guns and kept saying it was fine before bringing the car in. They ended up waiving the charge. Every single mechanic or tyre shop since have done the wheel nuts up too tight, some way too tight.
2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.
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