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  • #31
    Sub tank pick up

    Guys I reckon I have this problem... Travelling today and KDJ120R begins losing power, managed to baby it for a while but she stopped with 40 liters still in the tank. Filled her up after an RAA tow, primed and started no worries and got us home about 150 k's later. All mentioned fuses are ok so I reckon its the sub tank pick up. Can anyone tell me what the part number for this is as I have tried toyodiy.com and cant figure out which part it is and can i get it from anyone other than toyota as im sure they will try to overcharge me...
    Thanks, Nathan

    Comment


    • #32
      We've got this problem now with our 08 D4D 130k. Stopped at about 2/3 full on the sub tank first time, RACQ suspected contaminated fuel and we had it towed to the mechanic. He had a look at it and suspected a broken pickup (has had 2 or 3 other Prado's that go off road with the same problem) but checked the underbody filter and it was blocked - reckons it's never been changed (he's only done two minor services on the prado, previously serviced by Toyota). Driving back from Boonah on the weekend (with the new/2nd hand CT) got past the 2/3 mark on the sub tank and thought we were all good, then lost power again at about 1/2 full on the sub tank, pulled over and put in the 20L of Diesel we had just in case and we were off again, to the servo and another 40L.

      Drove it all this week, it flicked over to the 2nd tank on the way home yesterday, but by the time I got home (20k) the gauge had already dropped to just above the 3/4 mark.

      Off to Kingaroy this weekend so went to fill it up this morning so we've got a full main tank and could only get 50L into it. and it's now reading about 2/3's on the main tank.

      So this weekend I'll take a look at the fuses - still a bit unclear on which one - 15A next to horn is what I've read.
      Big Dog
      [B]2008 GREY GXL D4D[/B] with Sovereign Bar, PP Sticker, IPF 900 Spot/Spread Blue Covers, GME3440 UHF, AMTS Spacers, 275/65 R17 BFG's, Autocraft Sliders/Steps, Safari Snorkle, Hilux Washers, ARB Alloy Roof Rack, Ironman Awning [B]Yet To Come[/B] - 2" Lift, Dual Battery, AMTS Bash Plates, DIY Drawers, Diff Breathers, Rear Locker....Much More.

      Comment


      • #33
        Elaborate on flicked over to the second tank?
        HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

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        • #34
          Gday BigDog816

          Originally posted by BigDog816 View Post
          but checked the underbody filter and it was blocked - reckons it's never been changed
          Given that this $20 sediment filter was never changed (Small filter between both tanks) i believe it would have overloaded the purge pump & it has burned out!.. If fuse is blown then purge pump for sure!

          Now i just rang BURSONS (@ Gosford NSW) and they can get this pump in stock (EFP-660) for $660! ... Eeek!

          OR!

          You can get it through Amayama & get all genuine parts for $229.7 plus frieght!

          Firstly! ... You need your mechanic to confirm that the fuel purge pump is burned out?

          Once happy that it is fuel purge pump then here is the part numbers that you need to order them

          FUEL TANK-W pump(FUEL SUB TANK) 180L 23220-30011
          $218.91

          RING, O(FOR FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR) 90301-08020
          $1.72

          HOLDER, FUEL TANK PIPE SETTING 77289-52090
          $5.57

          GASKET, larg O-ring FUEL SUCTION TUBE SET 77169-35010
          $3.50

          If you can handle running around with a full tank then i would order the parts in through Amayama but i have to warn you that delivery can sometimes be slow but is worth it as i have ordered from them for my self a few times and took about 4 x weeks.

          You can try $oyota but i think your butt will drop out when they give you a quote price

          Cheers

          Side Note: I am not in anyway associated with this company or any other company but if anyone can come up with better pricing then feel free to share for all others to benefit from!

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by LeighW View Post
            Elaborate on flicked over to the second tank?
            Only meant that the 90L light came on and gauge went back to full.
            Big Dog
            [B]2008 GREY GXL D4D[/B] with Sovereign Bar, PP Sticker, IPF 900 Spot/Spread Blue Covers, GME3440 UHF, AMTS Spacers, 275/65 R17 BFG's, Autocraft Sliders/Steps, Safari Snorkle, Hilux Washers, ARB Alloy Roof Rack, Ironman Awning [B]Yet To Come[/B] - 2" Lift, Dual Battery, AMTS Bash Plates, DIY Drawers, Diff Breathers, Rear Locker....Much More.

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by Skywalkerrun View Post
              Gday BigDog816



              Given that this $20 sediment filter was never changed (Small filter between both tanks) i believe it would have overloaded the purge pump & it has burned out!.. If fuse is blown then purge pump for sure!

              Now i just rang BURSONS (@ Gosford NSW) and they can get this pump in stock (EFP-660) for $660! ... Eeek!

              OR!

              You can get it through Amayama & get all genuine parts for $229.7 plus frieght!

              Firstly! ... You need your mechanic to confirm that the fuel purge pump is burned out?

              Once happy that it is fuel purge pump then here is the part numbers that you need to order them

              FUEL TANK-W pump(FUEL SUB TANK) 180L 23220-30011
              $218.91

              RING, O(FOR FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR) 90301-08020
              $1.72

              HOLDER, FUEL TANK PIPE SETTING 77289-52090
              $5.57

              GASKET, larg O-ring FUEL SUCTION TUBE SET 77169-35010
              $3.50

              If you can handle running around with a full tank then i would order the parts in through Amayama but i have to warn you that delivery can sometimes be slow but is worth it as i have ordered from them for my self a few times and took about 4 x weeks.

              You can try $oyota but i think your butt will drop out when they give you a quote price

              Cheers

              Side Note: I am not in anyway associated with this company or any other company but if anyone can come up with better pricing then feel free to share for all others to benefit from!

              Skywalkrun, thanks for the detailed response. I'll check the fuse this arvo (any idea on the name of the fuse). And have a chat to the mechanic on Thursday when it's in for a service.
              Big Dog
              [B]2008 GREY GXL D4D[/B] with Sovereign Bar, PP Sticker, IPF 900 Spot/Spread Blue Covers, GME3440 UHF, AMTS Spacers, 275/65 R17 BFG's, Autocraft Sliders/Steps, Safari Snorkle, Hilux Washers, ARB Alloy Roof Rack, Ironman Awning [B]Yet To Come[/B] - 2" Lift, Dual Battery, AMTS Bash Plates, DIY Drawers, Diff Breathers, Rear Locker....Much More.

              Comment


              • #37
                Hi all,

                I just got back from a trip to NT doing 12000km. I wasn't a member but referred to this thread for some info as my 120 series 2008 d4d had this fuel problem. Basically, I first noticed in cobar when trying to fill up, kept gurgling and fuel kept coming up through the breather as if the tanks were full but I knew they weren't. It took me about 45mins to put in 60 litres of fuel, i had to fill up like this all the way to Katherine! The problem is the jet pump (fuel pump) in main tank (front tank) wasn't working. This pump transfers fuel from subtank into main from where the fuel pick up is. The fuel gauge on the dash was still working as usual (the gauge reading is an average between the two tanks and because the main tank is slightly larger than subtank it transfers over to second tank on gauge before the main was empty). After reading this thread, I needed actually see if what I suspected and read was true and sure enough 20k north of mataranka I run out of fuel when the gauge read just above 3/4 with green 90l light on.

                In the meantime on the way up I checked all fuses which were fine, fuel tank breather and changed the filter between the two tanks. All this made no difference. So definitely related to jet pump in main tank.

                I got under the car again...... and found the drain on the sub tank which I could reach with a socket (located on back rhs of tank). Using the mrs wee bucket and a cut off plastic bottle as a funnel, i managed to drain 5 litres at a time from sub tank and poured into main tank. The fuel went into main tank as it fills first and because the level of subtank was going down as I was draining it, the tank breather was clear of fuel therefore didn't gurgle and take forever. I managed to get 30l into main tank, primed the fuel pump (in engine bay on top of fuel filter) until hard and drove onto Katherine. The subtank is supposedly 87 litres so if this happens to you you can get this fuel out if desperate like I was.

                When I got to Katherine I decided to drop the main tank out to try finding the problem. I phoned a few toyota service centres and they had no idea. There is no fuel drain on the main tank so if you have do this, do it when you know tank is nearly empty as it is too heavy to handle and manoeuvre. You need to discount all fuel lines to the main tank, filler pipe, tank bash plate and disconnect an electrical cable on top of the tank that you can only do through the floor of the car by taking out passenger side rear seat, lifting carpet and unscrewing a plastic cover.

                Once this is done you can lower the tank. On top of the tank is a large white round screw on cap with fuel pipes. You need to un clip 1 or 2 of these to unscrew the cap. I had to use a hammer and large screw driver to undo as very tight. Once undone pull out a large white canister looking thing. Be careful removing as float, pick up, sender etc are all part of this. Once out, you need to un clip to access the jet pump. There are a two wires attached to a clip on either end ( one to jet pump itself and other to the cap on canister (I don't know what this canister is actually called- fuel assembly unit??)

                I tested the pump by using a battery and a couple of wires and and was working. I plugged it all back together in the canister and tried to power power it using the battery and nothing. I then discovered that the plug into the cap (top of canister) was all burnt and melted and not connecting with the connection pin on the cap. I phoned Toyota to try purchasing the cable and plugs and they would not sell me it separately, stating I must buy the whole fuel unit at $1300! You pay $65000 for a car with a reputation and that is the service you get! It is literally two pieces of wire 6 inches long that plug into a single plug each end. I tried every car parts shop and auto electrician but could not source one or have one made to suit. Without melting the insulation on the wire I soldered pin into plug and insulated with electrical tape and put it all back together. When you put canister back into tank ensure the cap is in the position it was before removing and as you screw up the large locking screw it will lock into position.

                Once back together I nervously went to the servo and filled up. Fuel went in properly and fast like it should. I filled up to max capacity. When I started it, the 90l light came on and showed empty but after I turned off and on again it reprogrammed as usual. Obviously there is no relay or fuse associated with the jet pump as i would of expected it to blow given the burnt out plug. I did another 8000k including on heavy corrugation and didn't have any further issues with the fuel tanks or transfer of fuel. If you have this problem I hope this information is of help to you. I certainly know how it feels. It seems to becoming an issue with the 120s as they age and I have heard it happening to a couple of 150s. Good luck

                Comment


                • #38
                  Hey SteveP
                  sorry to hear of your troubles , but a very good report
                  i was just going to ask the question about getting the tanks out to clean & inspect the jet pump with some of the issues i have been reading about

                  i will print that and keep it in the glove box

                  i might even go to a wrecker and see if i can by just that part of the wiring to the tank to have a spare part when we go remote
                  as for that i will add a soldering iron as well as some heat shrink

                  so there is a drain plug on the rear tank: correct ?? and the rear tank has the last lot of fuel: correct ??
                  and there is no drain on the front tank: correct ?? and when the 90L light is on, the tank is empty : correct ??

                  thanks James
                  2008 Dune D4D manual GXL update - with lots of fruit !! + Roma Razorback Off Road Van

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Lots of PPers with this problem without a r eal simple fix!
                    I bashed my head against the wall with this problem for months...
                    After trying everything form cleaning tanks etc etc, I replaced the FUEL RETURN BANJO ASSY on the injector pump...

                    That problem is now a distant memory.
                    HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
                    MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Well now my 2008 d4d has this same problem now be damed if I am taking it to a dealer to look at cost is way to much so I will try this. Remove fuel line from sub tank side of filter and block off remove drain plug from Sub tank put in a fitting to attach another fuel line to it run to 12v aftermarket pump then run a line to the filter and just turn on and off as required.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Had that issue a few years ago. Try to fill up and it would froth and splatter everywhere and took 30min's to fill the tank. would also run out of fuel soon after when light for 90ltrs came on. Changed filters, checked fuel pump in main under floor tank, nothing. Ended up being clogged or faulty unit in rear tank. Looks like an Octopus with 4 pipes coming out of it.

                        Centre square in the picture shows the part. About $300 from memory but fixed the problem straight off.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          There seems to be a lot of confusion around the "fuel pump" in the main tank of 120 diesel prados. If there is a fuel pump with wires to it it must be for petrol models and they just use the same fuel sender for both petrol and diesel models. For diesels they use a jet pump which is a static device that simply uses the fuel returning from the engine to pass down a vertical tube and as it passes an intersecting tube it creates a suction effect which draws fuel from the sub tank to the main tank. It involves no wires or fuses.

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            I have this exact problem. My drama is there are no pumps available anywhere in Aus and I have to wait 8 weeks. Anyone have any step by step in removal and replace as I'm guessing I have to get a second hand one from a wrecker. Cheers for any help. Trent

                            Comment

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