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Replacing Prado suspension

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  • #16
    Putting the lift kit will increase your flex but put long travel shocks in or shocks from a 100 series and you will have more articulation but i have found the front does not change that much because of the ifs


    1996 prado grande v6 2" lift, cooper st, uhf,lightforce 240 & IPF 900, 60ltr waeco, custom rear draws, dual batteries,dvd player, tom tom one.

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    • #17
      Thanks syco8!

      Could I just confirm... will 100 series factory front and rear shocks (actually... are the front shocks called struts???) fit on a 95series and match up with a 2" suspension lift?

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      • #18
        playing with rear suspension

        this week ive been playing with my rear suspension, i went and seen the local spring guy and he had a secondhand set of stock front 80series coils, he also had some old shocks unknown what there off but they were about 2 to 3 inches longer than the stock prado shocks. check out my tread on 4wd monthly.
        http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/show ... hp?t=31767
        75 Series Cruiser No More
        Replaced with a G6E Turbo
        95 Series Prado [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?19936-Beast2h-s-Prado[/url]

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        • #19
          Originally posted by carrot
          Thanks syco8!

          Could I just confirm... will 100 series factory front and rear shocks (actually... are the front shocks called struts???) fit on a 95series and match up with a 2" suspension lift?
          Front shocks from 100s won't fit.
          Rear shocks can be fitted for more down travel. you may need to bolt the rubber cones to the chassis to retain the rear springs
          cheers
          4WD SUSPENSION & BODYLIFTS 0418780611 A/H PH/FAX 07 33512692- [COLOR=#ff0000][SIZE=5]Bilstein, Ironman & Roadsafe Distributor [/SIZE][/COLOR]

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          • #20
            Thanks for the tips! I've got a stock 2000 GXL that is getting 2" lifted springs, and so I'm thinking of what it needs next. Looks like I'll try 100 series rear shocks... I'll see how the front travels with the standard struts, and I'll see if I can get 33's under it.

            I'm trying to do everything on a shoe-string! :wink:

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            • #21
              Originally posted by jimbo
              The fronts are dead easy no problems there .
              - Jack up to unload suspension
              - Remove strut / spring sub-assembly
              - Disassemble using spring compressors
              ... something along those lines, right?

              I've never worked with coil-over's before. Is it possible to do it without spring compressors?

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              • #22
                Originally posted by carrot
                Originally posted by jimbo
                The fronts are dead easy no problems there .
                -
                I've never worked with coil-over's before. Is it possible to do it without spring compressors?
                NO!! I've just done this. $40 Supercheap compressors did the job, although at times i was a tad worried at the bend in the screw thread as I cranked them down. Springs were 2" kings (although it's lifted the front about 90mm, measured from the edge of the flare to the top of the rim. Flare to ground now measures 925mm, on 265/70s

                I needed tham again for the left rear spring to pop it over the saddle.

                Rear shocks defeated me, non longer flexible enough to get the angle while laying on the floor in the garage.
                '01 TX turbo auto

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                • #23
                  Well, I put 2" lifted OME springs and 100 series shocks on the back. The shocks cost me $25 each from a wreacker. Some observations so far:

                  REAR

                  - Based on rough measurements, I did get about 2 inches of lift :wink:
                  - I didn't have as much trouble with the rear left shock as it seems like many others did. I just used an ordinary 14mm spanner. The car was jacked up, wheel removed, spring removed (coz I undid the bottom first and the spring comes out with a bit of bouncing on the axle - release the handbrake for more down-travel, I think). I sat on the floor half in the wheel arch, and brought the spanner across from the right and on to the nut. Easy. I fit a ratchet and socket in the left.
                  - The 100 series shock is a lot fatter and longer. At full droop the springs are loose, and I think I may want to do more than secure the upper rubber cones, coz I don't want the springs rattling and rotating. I think I'm going to have really good rear end flex, tho I haven't ramped it yet. The 100 series shocks are a little longer than the stock shocks when compressed, and I haven't checked if they will bottom out before the axle hits the bump stops.
                  - The 100 series rear shocks do bolt on, but the mounting hole at the top is a bit tight and don't allow for much angular movement (hole is about 1mm bigger than shaft. Shaft on original shocks was much smaller). I hope this isn't going to be a problem. Also, the rubbers in the eyelet at the bottom of the shocks are different, but it bolted together fine.

                  FRONT

                  I'll do that today, I haven't got my spring clamps yet! So the car's a bit wonky for now. I'll be using the stock struts, so I guess I'll have the same travel with a different zero-position (more compression, less droop). Do the aftermarket struts have longer down-travel? Any other suggestions on stock shocks from other models? I guess it can't go much lower than stock for the sake of the CV's.

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                  • #24
                    Well, it's all in now... I noticed my front struts are quite worn, so I'll have to replace them someday. And yeah, the front doesn't flex. :?

                    Here's a pic of some (rear) flex:

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                    • #25
                      Re: Replacing Prado suspension

                      OK............. After reading all this, I have to be honest I was getting pretty hesitant about even going near the back of my 97 GXL Prado. Hell I even procrastinated for a few days.

                      BUT THEN................ I got under the car and got both shocks out and in within half an hour !!!! Now I am of course not sure what options you guys explored when attacking this, but did anyone consider getting UNDER the car? I only ask this because most of what I read refers to accessing the top nut through the side (between chassis rail and body).

                      This is how I did it............. Hopefully it will help others out in the future.

                      The only tools I used were a 14mm spanner, and a 17mm socket/ratchet (17mm spanner would work too)

                      1: I didn't even jack the car up, I laid under it, armed with a 14mm run of the mill open/ring spanner.

                      2: Placed spanner ring over top bolt (not hard to reach, i was confused at this point what all the fuss was about). I then turned the upper shock tube counter-clockwise until the spanner "jammed" itself against the body of the vehicle.

                      3: Keep turning the upper shock tube until the nut is off.

                      4: Use 17mm spanner or socket/ratchet to loosen lower shock mount bolt.

                      5: Remove shock.

                      6: To re-install......... reverse this process.

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