Good luck with your suspension issue Matt. I think ARB will come to the party, however after they have tried to resolve it, try contacting Sam (She use to be a Prado owner and is now the Woman behind ARB Accessories as a member on here), as often She will refer the issue to Head Office.
Sorry Madkore, just had to!
Cheers
Micheal.
2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...
We went to the 4x4 show today and bought a Runva 11xp. It came with a snatch block and isolation switch. Also came with a damper disguised as a recovery gear bag , a 3m trunk protector, some leather gloves and 2x4& 3/4 t bow shackles. Just got to find some time to install. Has anyone hidden the control box behind the 120 ARB bar?. Seems enough room Maybe a custom bracket
Matt
Just reading about your build up. some excellent ideas there. my weekend project this weekend is trek table and wish I had read your post suggesting the melamine edging before I purchased the wood and cut the carpet.
A good lesson for next time to read a little more.
Did you have any troubles installing the light switch on the back door? it looks great with that 1m light bar.
Hey Retreads, no wasn't too bad with the light switch I just put a drill bit through then finished the cutout off with a square file. I had a small plastic snake to get the cable through the rubber tube between the car and door but I reckon you could get something through with a metal coathanger with the end taped up & if necessary a bit of dish washing liquid on it and join a cable on it to pull through.
Cheers Matt
2008 120 GX D4D with a few extras
Rig build here
[url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33115-Mattfunk-s-120[/url]
Spending spree hey Matt, winch and garage jack, well done.
Measured your droop yet? Bet that was the first thing you did with that shiny new jack
I still haven't found my jack handle either, went to Repco Saturday morning and bought a new one ready for work Monday morning, lucky.
Enjoy the winch fitting, have to get you bogged now to test it out.
Hey mate, Christmas in March yeah . Only got the jack out of the box by the time we were home. Measured my droop last week with the slow jack and it was FL-81mm & FR-72mm.. At least I can rotate the tyres now cause apart from the new one it's been about 8000km since they've been on.
Thanks again for your help again , better to know now rather than later to start saving for injectors
Cheers Matt
2008 120 GX D4D with a few extras
Rig build here
[url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33115-Mattfunk-s-120[/url]
I finished installing my new Runva 11xp winch on the weekend. My led light bar is on my lower bar which impeded mounting it there and there was plenty of room behind the bar so I mounted the control box there. A bit more effort but glad I did now.
I had to go visit a mate to borrow an angle drill to drill the holes to mount the control box cause it was a in a bit of a spot. Mounting the box here meant that I had to pop the bonnet to plug in the wired remote so I extended the plug up to the bullbar on the drivers side just behind the loop. I figured if it was on the side of the bar there was more chance of damage so I put it on the top, semi protected. A 25mm gland fitted into the control lid and tightened on some split tube to extend the wiring , which I used 2.5 mm2 3-core fez to extend.
I followed CraigM 's post on his rig build to install an isolation switch to kid proof accidental operation . All wired up and just waiting for Air on board to get some blue backgrounds in so I can order a "winch" switch . I like their push switches cause they fit straight in and don't require filing of the hole to fit them in like some of the carling style rocker switches that I have.
I had heard about the boots on the lugs on the motor filling up with water cause they were mainly on the bottom so I cut them off and went sick with a mountain of silicone to protect them from corrosion as well.
Negative on top is the same . I was short of room on my battery and needed a good connection for a high current so I ran the negative to the block where my aux battery is earthed. My positive on the crank battery was crowded and wasn't looking in the best condition for high current draw . The OEM terminal is 2 thin bands so I upgraded to a more solid brass fitting and replaced the bolt with a longer one to accomodate the new lug. Before and after.
Also split tubing around all the cables between the control box and motor.
I sourced some longer bolts to accomodate the offset hawse as well
A question . Where does everyone leave there hook. Do you wind it tight onto the bar or do you hook it on your recovery point? Does the rope then become damaged?
Cheers Matt
Nice work Matt. My preference is to keep the winch wound in to the bar so the Rope is away from the elements as much as possible. Also especially if you are going wheeling, that way the cable isnt going to get damaged from debris etc. This is another reason why I splashed out and got a Flatlink as it makes it easier to keep wound in without being awkwardly wound in hard against the Hawse. (post #228 of my Rig build)
Another tight into the fairlead here, however I don't have a hook and use a winch saver. Cut off bump stop or Kong dog toy will suffice.
I'm also not convinced on the silicone, those lugs generate/dissipate some heat. I'd prefer a smear of Vaseline etc. also would make for an easier in the bush repair.
I'm also not convinced on the silicone, those lugs generate/dissipate some heat. I'd prefer a smear of Vaseline etc. also would make for an easier in the bush repair.
Wasn't too bad . After some constant use the silicone was cool compared to the motor which was fairly warm. Will keep an eye on it anyway.
Matt
2008 120 GX D4D with a few extras
Rig build here
[url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33115-Mattfunk-s-120[/url]
Finally received my isolation switch for the winch yesterday. Air on board didn't have any blue backgrounds for their 80 style switches in stock for about 6 weeks. Easy to install as no filing required and I prefer wires at the back of the switch that need soldering rather than spade terminals . Looks good and kid proofs it if the girls are in the glovebox and find the remote and go " oh I wonder what this does"
Switch on
Switch and headlights on
Matt
2008 120 GX D4D with a few extras
Rig build here
[url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33115-Mattfunk-s-120[/url]
awesome build now you have made my wish list bigger lol
n_umind
[FONT=Comic Sans MS]2004 120 series Prado Grande ,2 inch toughdog front suspension and airbag man rear airbags ,Black widow rear drawers, Yaesu uhf ,ARB snatch strap ,ARB onboard air compressor ,Sandgrabber moulded mats ,dual battery system,Hid spot lights , ARB Rear air locker,Battery monitor and the list is growing [/FONT]
Well I've had the stauns for a while but I've never spent the time to set them up properly. A mate at a trip recently showed me his his arb ezy deflator and I wanted one so I bought one at the caravan show . Anyway dad came over this arvo so I pulled it out to show him how good it is . Dropped down to 20psi then went to pump it back up off the compressor it read 10psi with the arb inflator gauge. The old boy had a digital & an analogue as well which proved the
other was faulty. Accidentally stumbled on
this , maybe a good idea for others to check
theirs against a known value.
Cheers Matt
2008 120 GX D4D with a few extras
Rig build here
[url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33115-Mattfunk-s-120[/url]
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