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  • Starter Motor repair kit

    Hi there,
    My starter motor is playing up, and first I was thinking about getting a new one, but after checking the price of a new one (close to 800), I am not too keen. And I am not sure I want to stick in one of the cheapies from eBay. So after finding a good thread (the rebuild with lots of pictures) I have decided to fix it myself, and do some major overhaul. However I was wondering if there is a repair kid that I could buy to have it handy when taking it apart, just in case there are things that cannot be fixed and need replacing. Would anybody know who sell these? This is for 2007 120 D4D.
    Thanks in advance.
    Borec

  • #2
    Why don't you try wreckers first?

    Comment


    • #3
      Because I would have to overhaul it anyway, but e a good option for a spare one, once I venture into simpson or further, but I would overhaul it anyway, just to make sure it will be good.

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      • #4
        What is the problem with the one you have?
        HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

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        • #5
          Started after I went through deep water crossing, would tick once and nothing would happen. Then it went away, bu last weekend after a bog hole, it started doing it again. It will eventually turn (I hope), but I do not like the uncertainty, and obviously it needs to be looked into.

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          • #6
            Did some more research on new units, Repco will cost you 310, Bursons 470, Terrain Tamer 260 or so, import from middle east including postage close to 800.

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            • #7
              If it just clicks it may be just the solenoid contacts, I would pull it down, check the bearings
              and chane the brushes and contacts if required.

              Toyota also have remanufactured units I believe.
              HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by LeighW View Post
                I would pull it down, check the bearings and change the brushes and contacts if required.
                .
                Thanks
                Would you know are the part numbrers or specs of the contacts and brushes that I would need to buy, in order to have it at hand while taking it apart?

                Cheers

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                • #9
                  I was going to say that Repco and the like could supply a contact set for your diesel starter motor. I've never had an issue on my current Prado however, over the years with all the landcruisers and hilux diesels I've had, this is a common once the engine gets on a bit. The alternator and starter motors being the most common issues on aging engines. Was just checking ebay pics to see if the Prado starter is the same or similar setup with the solenoid (three screws) as the older cruisers and hiluxes and it is. You should be able to get a kit for it. I remember that these kits were never expensive really. There have been times though where is hasn't been the contact set but the solenoid coil wiring has failed (intermittently) and this requires a new complete starter motor.

                  There are certainly some cheap starters on fleabay now....http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STARTER-M...MAAOSwwpdW-d5q

                  Makes you wonder about the quality but the pricing is very good nonetheless.

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                  • #10
                    FWIW, my 2003 1KZ S.M packed up recently. Age got the better of it and I went through a lot of water the weekend before. Still it was the original one and it obviously did good service. I'm very time poor so my trusted auto electrician looked after me. I asked him to recondition but he put a 'better aftermarket' one in for @ the $390.00 mark inc fitting. He mentioned he had done a lot recently. He mentioned the brushes and contacts were in very good condition, I believe the solenoids were shot, it is normally the other way round. I pushed him about the kit but he rightly said after labour it would have worked out more expensive.

                    Yeah if I was doing it myself a kit may have been the go, it just did not fit my scenario. Starts like a dream now, very quick and efficient, sounds very different...I'd have stuffed something up. I don't know the part number but can chase it for you if you really want!
                    [SIZE=1]03 TD 120 Grande, L&R weathershields, f&r deflectors, Sov bar Amts rad b.pl, TJM front B.P, Uniden UH7760NB Kaymar LED worklight, ARB 47l, lifestyle rack & Milford C. Barrier, 9500llb Superwinch, IPF 900SR spots, T. Dog 40mm adj shocks/struts, coils, airbagman OA6011 airbags, 2.75" Beaudesert exhaust, 300w inverter, 1L Catch can,outback rec points, R.R awning, dual batteries redarc SBI12 Cooper LT A/T3's 265/65, Safari snorkel, Hilux jets, Brains TG150, Leigh's booster diode [/SIZE]

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for all the replies.
                      Just visited Repco, they do not sell any kits, so in the end I just bought after market one for supposed trade price of $260 (supposed retail price is 403). So I might have to change it tomorrow after work, as at the moment, I need to hold the key in the starting position for about 2-3 seconds before it turns over (mind you mind battery is pretty much on the way out - will need to buy a new one - decided on optima yellow top, but that is another story). Well I will try to fix the old one and keep it as a spare (or I might put it back and keep the new one as a spare)

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                      • #12
                        I have spend 6 hours under the car last night, I had to take the bash plates out, then I could not get one of the nuts holding the SM loose. I have a pebbled driveway so the job under the car is not easy. Got the SM out, and when I compared it to the repco OEX one, it is much heavier and good size larger and feels sturdier, even the positive terminal connection is larger then the Repco one. No wonder the Repco one costs only $260. So I was somewhat reluctant to put it in,so I decided to take my apart and see what it looks like inside.
                        Doing it I have stripped one of the Philips head screws that hold in the brush assembly to the front cover, so I had to drill it out, fortunately I had a similar screw to put in. I have never done this before, so it took me a while to figure out how to put the rotor back into the brush assembly once I pulled it out. There was quite a lot of moisture through out the whole SM. I was under the impression that these things are water proof, but they are not, they even have two breather/drainers. So every time one gets into a deep water water gets into these things, so no wonder they play up after deep water crossings. I be bit reluctant from now on to cross deep water, knowing how easy water can get into the SM.
                        I could not take apart the part where the gears are, as I do not have proper tools, and was afraid I might strip the three Philip head screws that hold it together. So I cleaned it and sanded the contacts on the plunger,and after some difficulty put it back together. There was some steel ball loose in the whole into which the plunger goes, and this would interfere with the spring on the plunger, But eventually I figured it was OK when the ball was et the bottom of the whole the plunger would go in and out without any issues.
                        I put it back together praying that it would work, and lord behold, it does. So I might keep the repco one as a emergency spare, or if possible return it and save up money for a genuine Japanese one, because I do not see the Chinese after market one working for too long under harsh conditions. All together it took me about 10 hours, but mostly because I was not sure what I was doing, and was trying to figure out what to do.
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                        • #13
                          Good work!

                          JimmyC was having troubles with the OEX alternators (he's had a couple now) producing a whine. Best to stick with genuine I think.

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                          • #14
                            I had one fully rebuilt a few years back was 270$ FYI 1KD/1KZ are the same

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                            • #15
                              Just a question... Did water likely ingress the breather(s)? If so, could it be possible to add a hose to a higher level (diff breather style) therfor making it reasonably water resistant?

                              Contemplating buying a backup alternator and starter motor :-o

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