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    Hi, .I have been changing my oil and filter at every 5K since new irrespective .I'm currently at 70K which is an overnight er .My question is there seems to be so many different options regarding which is the better oil to use .My dealer (Toyota ) uses the Magnatec 15w-40 but I have tried to stick with the Toyota oil (warranty) but I have a local fuel and oil supplier to farmers here and he has suggested Caltex Delo 400 15-w - 40 @ $9.90 /Lt. I don't know if that is a good price or not .I have just dropped the filter and oil in my girl @ 70K and used the Delo400, the first thing I noticed was the engine ran a lot quieter and seemed to be smoother What are your thoughts on the Caltex people Cheers Foxy:grin:

  • #2
    Stick to the Delo 400 , tried and proven across the country with these motors
    2012 Graphite GXL T/D Auto, with all the normal crap you fit

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    • #3
      Caltex delo 400 ..yes indeed, and you can buy a 20l drum for about $100...then all you need is a hand operated oil pump to screw into the drum (you can get one from Diesel Spares)... thats the way to go...its the latest quality oil and it meets the requirements of Toyota for the 150 diesel prado.
      SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

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      • #4
        Hey guys where are you buying in that size? I am currently using nulon 15w40 semi synthetic in my girl but buy a couple 10lt bottles when they are on sale.


        Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
        2008 120 Series 3lt D4D TD Prado GX, With to many bits to list :-) and more to come!!

        Ghosts Build thread :- [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?22132-Ghosts-2008-D4D-Auto-build[/url]

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        • #5
          Hi Ghost...unfortunately Foxy48 has no information on his post about what car he has or where he lives, so I didn't bother putting location information in my reply, and given that you are in Mackay I would say the best thing to do is to ring the caltex refinery in Brisban (as I did) and they they will gladly tell you where the wholesale distributers are located that can supply you with a 20litre drum.
          Just be careful where you get it from, because I have seem it for sale at some servos for well over $130 per 20litre drum.

          I had considered using a synthetic or semi synthetic oil in my 150 D4D, but in the end, I was told if you change the oil every 5,000km, its not a case of the oil actually breaking down and thus needing a synthetric or semi synthetic oil that lasts longer than a mineral oil, but rather its a case of changing the dirty, sotty oil (becaue of the detergents in the diesel oil and the production of soot by a diesel engine), and hence a mineral base oil of the correct grade/viscosity with equal (or in this case much better) to the minimum quality required for this engine was the way to go. I change the oil and filter every 5,000km, and I also didn't want the supposedly unnecessary expense of using a synthetic or semi synthetic oil. I paid $96 for a 20 litre drum of Caltex Delo 400 Multigrade 15W 40 CI4 plus oil. (It is also called an "ISO SYN" oil, because it reportedly has similar properties to a synthetic oil). Anyway, thats what I do and lots of people have different opinions regarding engine oil....Have a great Christmas folks.
          brogers
          Advanced Member
          Last edited by brogers; 20-12-2013, 07:43 AM.
          SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

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          • #6
            Thanks for that brogers, yea I've only been using the semi synthetic as it was cheaper on sale than the normal mineral oil , spoke to the nulon rep and he said the same thing in regards to a bit of an overkill with doing to 5,000k services if using semi synthetic. But as most of us we like to keep our pride and joy in tip top shape. Will go back to normal mineral oil if I can't get the semi synthetic on sale. It's a killer at normal prices .


            Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
            2008 120 Series 3lt D4D TD Prado GX, With to many bits to list :-) and more to come!!

            Ghosts Build thread :- [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?22132-Ghosts-2008-D4D-Auto-build[/url]

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            • #7
              Hi guys thank you for your thoughts .I drive a 2010 SX Shorty and I live in a small country town in SA called Lobethal . My guy here is a distributor for Mobil and Caltex .I paid $99.00 for the 20liter drum .Brogers, mate I too started using a synthetic but found the cost just didn't warrant it as I still believe that the new oil every 5K is the way to go and I'm yet to be convinced that letting a diesel engine go for 10K without a change especially after towing is good for the engine . Being an old farmer I guess old habits die hard . Once again thank you, you have convinced me to stick with this oil . Have a safe and blessed christmas Foxy

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              • #8
                I my self am a diesel mechanic (road transport) and use the 15w-40 we have here in the work shop which is Fuchs, was calling around the other day at Toyota dealers to find out what they use and the majority use either caltex or castrol as a workshop oil.

                This is perth dealers.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Foxy48 View Post
                  I drive a 2010 SX Shorty and I live in a small country town in SA called Lobethal . My guy here is a distributor for Mobil and Caltex
                  Hi Foxy,

                  I'm in the market for a drum or two as well. (For a 2009 ZR) Who's the distributor in Lobie? I'm about 15km South of Mt Barker...

                  Cheers,
                  Scrubby

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                  • #10
                    hi Scrubby , Mate I'll send you a private note okay Cheers foxy

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                    • #11
                      I have run Delo400 for years now in 1KZTE. I have done oil tests at 5,10 and 15k on tour and the oil had not degraded at all, the soot loading was the limiting factor but I extrapolated 20k life from the results (on tour only)

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                      • #12
                        t303, Would a bypass filter be a good idea to process the soot out of the oil as they are 2micron as that seems to be the determining factor?? I believe that is what the truckies use on their rigs. Cheers foxy

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                        • #13
                          Yep, I have considered one, but space is getting to be at a premium under the bonnet for me by the time I fit a catch can as well as all the electrical gear under there. Maybe I need to do a complete re-org.

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                          • #14
                            t303, Mate I have put a AM-SOIL one on my girl but I had to move it all down to the chassis. I used one of those screw on ports using AN10 SS hose because the bypass filter and engine oil filter are on the same fitting . I also have the catch can but to date I have had no need to empty it as there is very little muck in it as it seems the bypass filter is getting most of it . The fitting is protected by guards which I added to protect it from damage .I have put it just forward of the front cross member on the left hand side also adding oil pressure sensors and oil temp sender as well using gauges instead of indicators . I do a fair bit of towing so I like to know what is going on before it happens .hope this may help Cheers Foxy

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