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  • Anderson plug to run camper trailer battery

    Hey guys I don't know a lot about anderson plugs to charge batteries. I'm making a custom camper at the moment and am running an anderson plug in the trailer to a battery in the trailer so when I plug it into my car it will charge it. If I have two batteries in my trailer will the one anderson plug be enough to keep them both charging? What do I need to hook them both up?

    Thanks!
    2012 4dr JK wrangler, 3.5" AEV lift, AEV mags, 35" muddies, front/rear arb bars, tjm sliders, pioneer platform and some other goodies

  • #2
    They will be a 95ah and a 100ah battery in the trailer and will be charging them from the cranking battery in my prado as it doesn't have dual batteries. Was planning on running 6mm cable back to the tow bar to an anderson plug and then an anderson plug on the trailer with 6mm cable running direct to the batteries in the trailer?
    2012 4dr JK wrangler, 3.5" AEV lift, AEV mags, 35" muddies, front/rear arb bars, tjm sliders, pioneer platform and some other goodies

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    • #3
      I have 2 x 100Ah batteries in my Crossover. The setup I have is 6B&S cable from the car to an Anderson plug through a 50A circuit breaker. In the Crossover I fitted a C-Tek D250S and Smartpass which will provide charging current of up to 80A to the batteries . The advantage is that the D250S has built-in battery isolation, as well as a solar input. If you leave the car connected via the Anderson, the solar will charge the car's battery once the camper batteries are full.

      The setup works well for me. When I start the Prado, it is putting 20A into the Crossover batteries at IDLE (measured by the Victron fitted to the Crossover).

      Hope this helps.
      [i]I remember when sex was safe, and flying was dangerous![/i]

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      • #4
        Is 6mm large enough? A 6 B&S is equal to 16mm which will minimise your voltage drop all the way back to the van. The 6mm is fine for the current demand but will you get the required volts to service your Aux batteries?


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        2004 V6 Grande. BLACK -

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        • #5
          Originally posted by John View Post
          I have 2 x 100Ah batteries in my Crossover. The setup I have is 6B&S cable from the car to an Anderson plug through a 50A circuit breaker. In the Crossover I fitted a C-Tek D250S and Smartpass which will provide charging current of up to 80A to the batteries . The advantage is that the D250S has built-in battery isolation, as well as a solar input. If you leave the car connected via the Anderson, the solar will charge the car's battery once the camper batteries are full.

          The setup works well for me. When I start the Prado, it is putting 20A into the Crossover batteries at IDLE (measured by the Victron fitted to the Crossover).

          Hope this helps.
          G'Day John,

          Just to clear up a few points.

          6 B&S or 13.5mm2 in theory will provide 20amps over 10 meters with an input voltage of 13.8vdc (new prado's won't supply this without a bit of help). The voltage will drop to about 13.5v over that length using this calculator as an example http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/WireSizeCalc.html

          The CTEK SmartPass is another term for a high current switch which provides no charging on it's own. The 80amp figure that CTEK provides is what the unit can handle from the power source i.e alternator. If connected to the CTEK D250S ( http://www.ctek.com/Archive/ProductM...ARTPASS_EN.pdf ) it will do a number of things. If no solar panel is connected it will check the input voltage /current from the alternator. If the combination of this is low with the voltage level under 13.2vdc it won't start to charge as per Cteks website - CHARGING PROGRAM D250S DUAL The charger starts charging the target battery when the supply voltage exceeds 13.1V for 5 sec [engine on]. The charger stops charging the target battery when the supply voltage drops below 12.8V for 10 sec [engine off] . But if the above requirements are met it will allow the alternator to provide power to the D250S to up the voltage to 14.4v and current to a maximum of 20amps in theory.

          If a solar panel is connected to the D250S it will either use the power source from the solar panel (it engine is not running) or both the solar and alternator up to a maximum input voltage of 22volts.

          The main points are when running cable from the engine bay to the camper / caravan, ensure cable length and size are optimal to reduce voltage drop. Keeping in mind you have a small voltage drop at each connection. The wire calculator above allows a 2% drop for this (this figure can be changed). To know what voltage you need at the end of the cable look at your manufacturers website for your particular battery to see what the minimum charge voltage is and don't go below this.

          Look at the operation voltages that is required to operate your charging equipment i.e Redarc SB12I or your Ctek D250s.

          Look at what voltage your vehicle supplies. A stock 120 series D4D is about 13.2 -13.5vdc. Add a voltage drop of say .4vdc over 10 meters and your supply voltage from the alternator is around 12.8v give or take. This is where a voltage booster diode comes in handy to up you alternator voltage by about .4 of a volt give or take. High current devices will drop the voltage as well so you need to factor this in with cable size.

          Sometimes it's trial and error but you can minimise this by knowing the limits of your equipment etc, over compensating your requirements i.e the supply cable, using good products and ensuring good installation practices are adhered to. Don't do it on the cheap, don't rush it and plan ahead. I didn't think I was going to buy a camper trailer but when I ran the cable from the engine bay to rear of the vehicle I allowed it to be long enough and big enough so that I could connect to a trailer down the track if required. I had the excess cable sitting in the wheel arch for over 12 months.

          The above is my opinion and each install will be different. Seek as much advice as you can before considering any install if unsure. Sometimes you will waste money, other times you will save it.

          Winston.
          winniliss
          Avid PP Poster!
          Last edited by winniliss; 04-07-2013, 10:05 PM.
          Winston.

          White 2009 120 Series D4D GXL manual.

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          • #6
            Cheers winston big help
            2012 4dr JK wrangler, 3.5" AEV lift, AEV mags, 35" muddies, front/rear arb bars, tjm sliders, pioneer platform and some other goodies

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            • #7
              After having volt drop in my 6mm cable to the fridge, codan and 240v inverter i finally upgraded the cable to the back of the car.
              Used a duel 60 amp circuit breaker under the bonnet, ran out of room so made a bracket to mount above the second battery. Ran 4AG cable to the back and installed a six outlet fuse box. 6mm cable (short lengths) from fuse box to the fridge, codan, inverter, and the solar panel with a spare lead so i can run anything else like a portable compressor. The wire to the anderson plug for the trailer charge is 8AG. Anderson plugs on everything. Also ran the 8AG canle to inside the bullbar for a second spare or for a second solar panel.
              All up the cost is close to $200.
              Picture of circuit breakers.

              Pic of rear fuse box.


              Mounted the fuse box on the RHS in the open tub area. Need to build a carpet mat to finish the bottom and hide the mount bracket. Now i have less than 0.5 volt drop under full load from the Codan.
              08 VX D4D, Lift, Safari Snorkle, Trailblazer Fridge, Custom Storeage System, BFG, ARB Safari Bar, Wife, Kids, Codan NGT HF Radio, Debt.
              06 100 Series Sahara, Bilteins, Kings, Beaudesert 3", Diff drop, Unichip Q4, Safari Intercooler, EGR delete, 20ft Bushtracker, Codan Envoy more coming.
              Sometimes i wake up Grumpy, most times i leave her sleep.

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              • #8
                Good outcome Rusty. Most electrical issues can be minimised by spending a little more coin to do the job right first time with the right advice.

                Winston
                Winston.

                White 2009 120 Series D4D GXL manual.

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                • #9
                  6 bns twin will be more than enough to charge 2 deep cycle batterys and if you have a ctek or similar it will be fine. I have 8 bns twin and every thing works as normal. Beer is always cold in the car and the camper so thats a good start. I wish i went 6 but that wasnt on the shelf at work when i done mine.

                  If you have any doubts go to a good auto elec that has a track record of working with caravans etc etc. they will help advise what you do and dont need.
                  2005 Black gxl 1kz, Steinbauer chip, ome lift, arb delux bar, Lightforce genisis 210's, 30inch led light, tigerz roof rack, GME 3540 uhf, genuine towbar, custom spare wheel spacer, ors draws, drop slide, waeco, dual batteries, twin locked, st maxx tyres, winch.

                  Soon to come-35's and longer shocks.

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                  • #10
                    I have my Anderson at the rear wired to battery in the engine bay via 40mm^2 cable (both + and -). I have no measurable voltage drop. This setup works OK when I drive for a few hours, but on its own isn't great for topping up the camper battery by just starting and idling the car - with most alternators the charging current drops off pretty quickly after a few minutes (they are designed to top up starting batteries). This is where the DS250 comes in handy. However I didn't go for a DS250 due to its limited input voltage (around 20V). I run 30V solar panels, so I installed a separate MPPT controller in parallel with the main cable from the battery. The MPPT reg knows when the alternator is charging, and waits until the alternator thinks the batteries are full, and then the reg tops them up with the higher boost voltage (14.5V on my AGM's).
                    95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]
                    [/SIZE]

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                    • #11
                      Update on my circuit breaker. Started to get large voltage drop when under load. Up to 0.8 volt when running the compressor. Tested everything to determine the volt drop was between the cable input and the breakers themselves. Bought a replacement but before installing it thought I would investigate he circuit breaker to find the screws underneath the clear plastic where a little bit loose. Tightened these and presto, no more volt drop. Max with the same compressor is now 0.06 volt.
                      Will keep the new one as a spare but it will pay to check these units before every trip.

                      Rusty.
                      08 VX D4D, Lift, Safari Snorkle, Trailblazer Fridge, Custom Storeage System, BFG, ARB Safari Bar, Wife, Kids, Codan NGT HF Radio, Debt.
                      06 100 Series Sahara, Bilteins, Kings, Beaudesert 3", Diff drop, Unichip Q4, Safari Intercooler, EGR delete, 20ft Bushtracker, Codan Envoy more coming.
                      Sometimes i wake up Grumpy, most times i leave her sleep.

                      Comment

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