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Detaching and reattaching the steering column to the rack

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  • Detaching and reattaching the steering column to the rack

    Somebody had apparently done this on my truck before and when they reattached the column to the rack the rack was not in neutral position. As a result the steering wheel could make a fraction of a turn more to the left than to the right.


    So I had to do front wheel alignment anyways and I asked the mechanics to detach the steering column and attach it again at neutral position before doing the alignment. They did that detaching the column from the rack at the rag joint. When I tested the car after that turning the steering wheel felt as if I had lost my power steering. Besides the steering wheel won't return to neutral position by itself.


    I checked the alignment at at another shop and it was fine. There are no leaks and nothing seems bent. What could have gone wrong. What should i be looking at?

  • #2
    It is a pretty simple system so I am thinking it is one of four things: Fluid level low, drive belt loose so the pump isn't working properly, maybe air in the system from the rack being shifted around or a kinked hose? This is assuming that no damage has been done to either the rack or the power steering pump.

    Check fluid level as per the manual (warm or hot from memory). Check how tight the belt is and see that the pump is spinning. It should go without saying but KEEP YOUR HANDS OUT OF THERE while the engine is running. If it is air that is the case then it should self bleed with a few dozen urns. Kinked hoses should also be obvious.
    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
      It is a pretty simple system so I am thinking it is one of four things: Fluid level low, drive belt loose so the pump isn't working properly, maybe air in the system from the rack being shifted around or a kinked hose? This is assuming that no damage has been done to either the rack or the power steering pump.

      Check fluid level as per the manual (warm or hot from memory). Check how tight the belt is and see that the pump is spinning. It should go without saying but KEEP YOUR HANDS OUT OF THERE while the engine is running. If it is air that is the case then it should self bleed with a few dozen urns. Kinked hoses should also be obvious.
      I don't think it has anything to do with the power steering hydraulic system. The hydraulic system has not been touched at all and it seems to be working fine (i.e. fluid level, belt, pump, etc.) Changes were only applied to the mechanical steering subsystem.

      Comment


      • #4
        There isn’t a lot to the system, it is basically an engine driven pump operating a double acting ram via a rotary control valve.

        So if it feels like you have NO power steering that suggests MJRANDOM’s post makes sense.

        However in your reply you don’t agree, but unfortunately don’t state if you have checked that there is enough fluid in the system, I would also start with what he has suggested, and get back to us, as this will eliminate the most likely causes.

        It is possible to adjust a slightly out of centre rack by the tie rods, instead of moving the rag joint, why wasn’t it done that way ? It is much simpler than messing with the Rag Joint, which is usually adjusted to get the steering wheel back into the neutral position, not the wheels.

        I really can’t see how moving the rag joint could cause a problem, except if they dropped the lines to get access (as it isn’t easy to get your hands in there from underneath with those pipes in the way) and either didn’t top up the fluid, or it has leaked out if they didn’t nip up the lines correctly.

        What did it feel like when you picked it up ?

        Was it OK to begin with , and then got heavier over a period of time ?

        I would think it must have been, otherwise you wouldn’t have driven out of the parking lot, would you ?

        Check the level of fluid etc and get back to us.


        Cheers
        Ken

        PS O I forgot to mention that there is 2 little brass restrictors fitted into the rotary pump ports, they fit underneath the pipe nipples, if the fluid etc is OK, and they did remove the lines, I wonder if one had turned sideways and is restricting the fluid, but this would have been felt straight away I think.

        And sorry I see that you do state in your reply that ”The hydraulic system has not been touched at all and it seems to be working fine (i.e. fluid level, belt, pump, etc.)”.

        Recheck the level of fluid etc and get back to us.

        I would also ring the people who did the work and ask if the pipes had been disconnected and let them know that there are now issues with the vehicle.
        Ken in Cairns
        Junior Member
        Last edited by Ken in Cairns; 28-02-2013, 07:22 AM. Reason: forgot to add something :(

        Comment


        • #5
          Fluid level is normal.

          The problem was there right after the alignment. The mechanics would not want to acknowledge it was a result of their actions so I had to talk to the owner before I got another appointment there. So, I am getting back there tomorrow.

          The first time, I was there all the time watching the mechanics as they worked on the truck. Pump, belt and lines had not been touched at all. Just the rag joint was taken out and then brought back at a different position.

          The problem persists for a week now. I brought the truck to the local Toyota dealership. They acknowledged the problem was there but they offered no solution. They said the steering column and the rack exhibited no problems whatsoever.

          I am really clueless now. Cannot thing of anything else but putting the entire steering column apart and then back again hoping that I'll find the problem or it'll go away.

          Comment


          • #6
            It turned out to be the shaft length. I slackened the rag joint again and tapped the spliced part open. The shaft sunk 1/4''. Steering became light again after that.

            Comment


            • #7
              It didn't damage anything?
              My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

              Comment


              • #8
                I hope so. But I drove just a couple of miles like that.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Glad you found the problem mate.
                  I don’t know how they stuffed that up, as the lower shaft has a slot in in for the bolt.
                  Had mine apart, but yet to drive it, still have some work to do, but nice to know the solution.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The shaft that connects the rag joint to the steering wheel does not seem to have a slot for the bolt. I'll check it out again but I'm pretty sure about that. If there is a slot the chances are I have not gotten it right yet.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      No it's only the lower pump end with the slot mate.

                      The upper is just a plain spline.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Well, there is a flat section couple of inches long running along the length of the upper spline shaft. That flat section is facing the bolt. So it looks like that is acting as a slot. The bolt was below that slot the first time hence the problem.

                        This setup however allows quite some variation in the length of the spline shaft. Mine is at its minimum possible length now, i.e. looking through the slice in the rag joint I can see the blot is at the very lower end of the flat section and there is more than an inch of empty space below. Is it he same way on your trucks? Should I extend the spline shaft some more?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Well, there is a flat section couple of inches long running along the length of the upper spline shaft. That flat section is facing the bolt. So it looks like that is acting as a slot. The bolt was below that slot the first time hence the problem.

                          This setup however allows quite some variation in the length of the spline shaft. Mine is at its minimum possible length now, i.e. looking through the slice in the rag joint I can see the blot is at the very lower end of the flat section and there is more than an inch of empty space below. Is it he same way on your trucks? Should I extend the spline shaft some more?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            My bad, yes the flat is on the top shaft, and the bottom is the plain spline.
                            Sorry was 6 weeks ago I had it apart.
                            If it is OK now I would just see how it goes.

                            Comment

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