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HOW TO look after your BATTERY

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  • HOW TO look after your BATTERY

    Regular testing and inspection will help to maximise battery life.
    I'd say at least once a month.
    Keep your battery clean & dry.
    Check battery security - no good if its bouncing around.
    Check all connections are good and not corroded.
    You can add a thin layer of grease to the posts & connections, for added corrosion protection.
    Inspect the case for warpage, this can indicate that has been overheated and/or overcharged.
    Make sure electrolyte levels are correct, over the top of the plates but do not overfill.
    Never top up with or add acid!
    Keep the battery fully charged, sulphating is much worse if it is not fully charged or flat.
    HEAT is a big killer, try and insulate the battery from the heat, have air duct feeding air to cool it if possible.

    Simple rough % of charge: Firstly a good battery 100% charged should have an open circuit voltage 12.65 to 12.8+v if it is charged. If its fully charged and lower than 12.65 it's likely your battery is near its end.
    Often the reading will be higher. Let the battery settle after charging before checking.
    75% charged might be 12.4 to 12.5v
    50% 12.20-12.30v
    25% 12-12.10v
    Anything under 12 is considered discharged.

    Battery's generate explosive gases, keep ignition sources away, especially during and after charging.
    Avoid causing sparks at terminals. I have seen them explode, it's not a happy shower.

    I have a digital battery tester, happy to test your battery for free.

    Hope that helps.
    Anth120playdo
    Banned
    Last edited by Anth120playdo; 02-03-2013, 06:51 PM. Reason: Add info

  • #2
    Thanks for the info #### some good indicators to look out for.
    Cheers
    Troy
    SOUTH AUSTRALIA GATEWAY TO THE OUTBACK!
    2003 GXL V6 AUTO 120 CHAMPAGNE MICA [DUNE]
    LIST OF ACCESSORIES GROWING, WISH LIST SLOWLY DECLINING

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    • #3
      I've still got my factory GS Yuasa 105D31L after 4 years 7 months. I've charged every 3 months with a Ctek 7A charger on it's normal setting.

      In summer I don't notice weak starts. In winter if I notice weak starts I give it a charge and it's fine.

      Adding to the original post I recommend charging the starting battery every few months.

      Also, try not to parallel 2 different chemistries of batteries through a solonoid. Calcium batteries when fully charged sit at around 12.8V. Normal hybrid style batteries sit at 12.6V fully charged. The calcium battery will never retain a full charge as it will discharge into the other battery until the solonoid cuts out. If you have a soilenoid that cuts out at say 12.8 or 12.9V then mixing battery types should not be a problem.
      gxl_d4d
      Advanced Member
      Last edited by gxl_d4d; 16-02-2013, 10:14 PM.
      2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

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      • #4
        I use inox or wd40 on my battery terminals. Its easier to clean the terminals when working on the batery and provides a better electrical connection. I have never had an issue of corrosion on my terminals. In saying that thou, when i wash my vehicle i also clean the engine bay.

        Winston.
        Winston.

        White 2009 120 Series D4D GXL manual.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by gxl_d4d View Post
          I've still got my factory GS Yuasa 105D31L after 4 years 7 months. I've charged every 3 months with a Ctek 7A charger on it's normal setting.

          In summer I don't notice weak starts. In winter if I notice weak starts I give it a charge and it's fine.

          Adding to the original post I recommend charging the starting battery every few months.

          Also, try not to parallel 2 different chemistries of batteries through a solonoid. Calcium batteries when fully charged sit at around 12.8V. Normal hybrid style batteries sit at 12.6V fully charged. The calcium battery will never retain a full charge as it will discharge into the other battery until the solonoid cuts out. If you have a soilenoid that cuts out at say 12.8 or 12.9V then mixing battery types should not be a problem.
          The yuasa are one of the best, they often last up to 7 years when looked after.

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          • #6
            The yuasa are one of the best, they often last up to 7 years when looked after.[/QUOTE]

            Yep have to agree..still have this as my starting battery in 2006 1kz-te..is starting to sound sluggish though..might just throw the charger on it one day for a decent charge/conditioning

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Anth120playdo View Post
              The yuasa are one of the best, they often last up to 7 years when looked after.
              The one in our Rav is now going 8 years old, its a bit sluggish in the mornings so a replacement is coming soon, pretty good life foe a battery though. Oh and its nover had an auxillery charge or anything special done as fair as maintenance goes, just drive it and check the level at service time.

              Cheers Andrew
              [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

              [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

              [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


              [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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              • #8
                So it looks like my battery is naffed...

                Ive googled Yuasa. There seems to be alot of info on motorcycle batteries but I cant seem to find a 4X4 specific battery.

                Any info on where to find them would be appreciated.
                HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
                MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by mackayvx View Post
                  So it looks like my battery is naffed...

                  Ive googled Yuasa. There seems to be alot of info on motorcycle batteries but I cant seem to find a 4X4 specific battery.

                  Any info on where to find them would be appreciated.
                  For Century Batteries (Century Yuasa), try here http://www.centurybatteries.com.au/index.php/product-range/4wd

                  Edit: Century Batteries are also Distributors of Optima Batteries... (also on their web page)
                  craigm
                  Addicted PP Member
                  Last edited by craigm; 01-03-2013, 02:02 PM. Reason: added info
                  2004 V6 Grande. BLACK -

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by craigm View Post
                    For Century Batteries (Century Yuasa), try here http://www.centurybatteries.com.au/index.php/product-range/4wd

                    Edit: Century Batteries are also Distributors of Optima Batteries... (also on their web page)
                    Hey craig.
                    Yes thats what had me confused...
                    It seems Century and Yuasa are one in the same.

                    Well the battery that has failed me is a Century heavy duty and Im cautious about buying another Century.
                    Does anyone own a Century Overlander Ultra High Performance battery???

                    Technically the Overlander battery is perfect. Correct size and good cranking amps + 24 month warranty.

                    So does anyone have any feedback?

                    Cheers. Drew.
                    HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
                    MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi folks and some good info here but unfortunately there has been a very common error made, that leads on to other erroneous postings.

                      Hi #### and your maintenance advice is well worth following for those who had no idea of what it takes to help keep a lead acid battery in best possible condition.

                      BUT, the voltages you used are for OPEN CIRCUIT voltage readings, and batteries in vehicles, particularly one used on a daily basis have WORKING batteries and you need to use a different voltage to SoC table.

                      I’ve post one at the bottom of this reply.

                      You will notice that a working battery with a voltage reading of 12.0v is actually only 50% discharged, not completely discharged as is the case with your OPEN CIRCUIT voltage reading.

                      OPEN CIRCUIT voltage readings are only valid where the battery has been in a No-charge/No-Load state for at least 24 hours, which does not apply to the typical 4x4 battery.

                      Hi gxl_d4d and again, you to have used OPEN CIRCUIT voltage readings. Battery voltages will not only vary between different types, they will vary between batteries of the same type when you use an OPEN CIRCUIT voltage reading.

                      All lead acid batteries have the same voltage readings when the battery is in use. This is to do with the the acid to water ratio, no matter what type of battery it is.

                      In your scenario, if you have a say a Calcium/Calcium and an Optima ( Spiral ) type AGM. If your two batteries are down a bit when you go for a short drive, at the end of the drive, because the Optima is a RAPID charging battery, it will be in a higher state of charge and if the batteries were kept together, the Optima will discharge back into the Ca/Ca cranking battery.

                      But as you posted, most DBS isolators will Cut-Out and stop the Optima discharging back into the cranking battery.

                      Now while this sounds like a good idea, in fact, if the Optima is allowed to discharge back into the Ca/Ca cranking battery, over just a week or two of normal driving and your cranking battery would progressively be charged to a high state and it would remain that way.

                      Mixing battery types actually has no harmful effects, and can be an advantage.

                      To use this table to get a reasonable indication of the battery’s SoC, there should be a small load, no more than 5% of the battery’s total Ah, and the reading needs to be taken after the load has been in place for at least 10 minutes after the motor is first turned of or for a minute or so at any other time when the motor has not been used for a few hours.

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                      • #12
                        Gidday Drew,

                        I replaced my OEM battery about 9 months ago with the Century Overlander. So far I'm stoked. It turns the engine over quicker than the OEM battery ever did. Not that I'm complaining about almost 7 years from the old girl

                        Recently both my alternator belts broke about an hour from home. I disconnected the anderson for the camper and continued home, shut the engine down, and it restarted as though it hadn't been off charge.

                        So far I'm quite happy with it. The only down side to the battery is that the new versions have a plastic cover over the caps (which sit at the front of the battery). This requires you to remove the battery clamp to service the electrolyte.

                        Can't remember what the warranty is.......

                        Originally posted by mackayvx View Post
                        Hey craig.
                        Yes thats what had me confused...
                        It seems Century and Yuasa are one in the same.

                        Well the battery that has failed me is a Century heavy duty and Im cautious about buying another Century.
                        Does anyone own a Century Overlander Ultra High Performance battery???

                        Technically the Overlander battery is perfect. Correct size and good cranking amps + 24 month warranty.

                        So does anyone have any feedback?

                        Cheers. Drew.
                        [i]I remember when sex was safe, and flying was dangerous![/i]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by John View Post
                          Gidday Drew,

                          I replaced my OEM battery about 9 months ago with the Century Overlander. So far I'm stoked. It turns the engine over quicker than the OEM battery ever did. Not that I'm complaining about almost 7 years from the old girl

                          Recently both my alternator belts broke about an hour from home. I disconnected the anderson for the camper and continued home, shut the engine down, and it restarted as though it hadn't been off charge.

                          So far I'm quite happy with it. The only down side to the battery is that the new versions have a plastic cover over the caps (which sit at the front of the battery). This requires you to remove the battery clamp to service the electrolyte.

                          Can't remember what the warranty is.......
                          Howdy john.
                          Thanks for the feedback on the overlander.
                          I actually had to buy a battery from a local dealer this morning just so i could drive the car.
                          He had a good stock of Delcor, so I got a 710 CCA calcium to get me on the road.
                          All I can say so far is... The car starts- YAY!

                          On a different note its great yo see a battery load tester in action.
                          At full amp load my old battery dropped to 5volts.

                          Thanks again john.
                          Cheers. Drew.
                          HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
                          MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

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                          • #14
                            Yuasa Japan bought century many years ago.
                            That's why it's century/yuasa.
                            The century ones are Aussie made in Queensland.

                            There are always failures, some brands % more than others the good news if it is genuinely a failure, it would be covered under warranty.
                            I know century are excellent with any service in my experience.

                            I just replaced my 2011 excide with an over lander 4x4 760cca. The old battery was starting the vehicle fine, but it was cactus. Don't think because it still starts the engine it's ok.
                            I would have used a marine pro 720 but the terminals only come in the one configuration.

                            The voltages I used in the first post are just a guide.
                            The table provided by drive safe is ok too.
                            There is no absolute. All battery's are different.
                            As I already wrote, they should be allowed to settle after charging before using static voltage as a guide.
                            This information was offered as a simple guide. Generally HOW to look after your BATTERY.

                            Anyone in Melbourne that really want to know how good their battery is: you are welcome to contact me and come for a free battery inspection and test.
                            Anth120playdo
                            Banned
                            Last edited by Anth120playdo; 02-03-2013, 06:57 PM.

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