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  • Permanently mounting an amorphorous solar panel

    Hey guys,

    Has anyone permanently mounted an amorphorous solar panel to their vehicle roof?

    I recently purchased a James Barroud fibreglass roof tent (awesome bit of kit) for our upcoming trip around Australia. It has a recessed section on the top for storage or a spare wheel. Can take up to 25 kgs apparently.

    I would LOVE to whack a solar panel up there to help out with the fridge and keeping the batts topped up. I dont want a folding panel that i need to set up when topped as it doesnt suit our style of touring. We dont set up at camp and remain stationary for days on end. We tend to basecamp and do short day trips. I want something more permanent so when we drive a few km's and hang on a beach all day or stop for lunch or go for a walk away from the vehicle, the batts are automatically being topped up whether are with the vehicle or not.

    I looked into a 80 watt panel which should just fit in the recess however unsure how it could be mounted as i would really prefer not to drill through the roof of the tent. Also worried about it flying off if i just glue it.

    So i started thinking about sticking an amorphorous panel straight to the tent shell. I remember seeing a pic on another forum of one stuck straight to the roof of a cruiser. The redarc 36W should fit. Redarc didnt seem to like the idea tho saying it could void warranty if the glue screws up the cells. I dont see it being a problem if i kept the glue to the outer canvas around the cells.

    Has anyone done this or have an opinion or maybe another suggestion? Would love to hear it.

    I know 36W isnt much but for the bloody price and size of these things thats about all i could do. As we tend to drive a fair bit im hoping its enough to help out a little on hot days when the fridge is pumping or we do sit on our arse for a whole day whilst hungover. It happens..

    Cheers, Anthony

  • #2
    got my attention?

    Originally posted by dezzert storm View Post
    Hey guys,

    Has anyone permanently mounted an amorphorous solar panel to their vehicle roof?

    I recently purchased a James Barroud fibreglass roof tent (awesome bit of kit) for our upcoming trip around Australia. It has a recessed section on the top for storage or a spare wheel. Can take up to 25 kgs apparently.

    I would LOVE to whack a solar panel up there to help out with the fridge and keeping the batts topped up. I dont want a folding panel that i need to set up when topped as it doesnt suit our style of touring. We dont set up at camp and remain stationary for days on end. We tend to basecamp and do short day trips. I want something more permanent so when we drive a few km's and hang on a beach all day or stop for lunch or go for a walk away from the vehicle, the batts are automatically being topped up whether are with the vehicle or not.

    I looked into a 80 watt panel which should just fit in the recess however unsure how it could be mounted as i would really prefer not to drill through the roof of the tent. Also worried about it flying off if i just glue it.

    So i started thinking about sticking an amorphorous panel straight to the tent shell. I remember seeing a pic on another forum of one stuck straight to the roof of a cruiser. The redarc 36W should fit. Redarc didnt seem to like the idea tho saying it could void warranty if the glue screws up the cells. I dont see it being a problem if i kept the glue to the outer canvas around the cells.

    Has anyone done this or have an opinion or maybe another suggestion? Would love to hear it.

    I know 36W isnt much but for the bloody price and size of these things thats about all i could do. As we tend to drive a fair bit im hoping its enough to help out a little on hot days when the fridge is pumping or we do sit on our arse for a whole day whilst hungover. It happens..

    Cheers, Anthony
    continue with your thought, watching with interest , cheers butane
    [u][i][b][color=#0000FF] ..lets take her out for a spin... butane[/color][/b][/i][/u]

    [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFK707FE9SM[/url]

    Comment


    • #3
      Mate, we leave on the 28th Need a solution ASAP!

      Comment


      • #4
        looks like you too need to "google"
        [u][i][b][color=#0000FF] ..lets take her out for a spin... butane[/color][/b][/i][/u]

        [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFK707FE9SM[/url]

        Comment


        • #5
          tried that..

          Comment


          • #6
            dezzert this is posted in another thread from the past.

            http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...suitable/page4

            When we go camping or sometimes just have the roofrack on and the car will be in the sun I fit the solar panels as above. My data from last December when the weather was very nice indeed on the Fraser Coast was that the 80W panel pretty much supplied as much energy as the fridge took out. So 10 or 12 hours of solar boost = 24 hours of fridge use with the fridge set at -3C.

            I am going to go larger and use this panel for the second battery that I have in the trailer. I am a bit restricted as my roofrack is only small at 1450mm x 1250mm but I have found one that will generate 130W and fits comfortably in that space.

            The only problem I faced was shading from trees in the camping spot we chose which meant that I really didn't get a full day's worth of solar energy. Sometimes I moved the car around but mostly I just left it alone and used the occasional trip up the beach to top up the battery.

            I don't know what access you have for fitting rails but if you apply a good quality silicone sealant around the holes you should have no issues with either water or dust leakage into the tent. I chose aluminium rails and stainless fittings. The clamps for the panel are proprietary solar panel clamps and do the job regardless of how much bouncing and twisting the car does. These are available for a number of different thickness panels since they seem to be all different. All up the weight of the 80W panel is around 14kg with the fittings adding another couple of kg.

            I have wired my panel to the battery directly with connectors and have an in line power monitor (Doc Wattson) which is detailed in other posts somewhere. I also have the same monitor on the fridge so I can see what is going in and what is coming out. I did have a problem early on with a faulty connector (and not even one I did) but I fixed that and all was good. That is the benefit of the monitors. We had gone for a 4wd on some bouncy tracks and one of the connectors failed. It still took me a couple of days to find it because I wasn't checking the monitors daily but otherwise I would have had no idea the solar panel wasn't topping up the battery until that went flat.

            If you have any questions feel free to send me a pm or post here.

            EDIT:

            Here is a pic of the monitor though I now have it adjacent to the panel so I can read it without popping the bonnet, under bonnet temps a bit too high as well.



            And this is how the panel looks up on the roof.





            mjrandom
            Out of control poster!
            Last edited by mjrandom; 18-01-2013, 02:38 PM.
            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

            Comment


            • #7
              A couple of more recent shots with the panel on the roof.





              My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

              Comment


              • #8
                Anthony,
                A few years ago when I was doing the Grey Nomad thing in a van around Australia I attached 2 Solar panels to the roof of the Van using Aluminium Angle glued to the Van Roof. I used Sikaflex which is used to glue panels of vehicles together. I had no troulbe with the panels lifting or the glue giving way during the time I had the van. I used this method as I didn't want to drill through the roof of the van. I only drilled 1 hole and that was for the wiring from the panels to the battery in the van boot.
                I have in fact used Sikaflex on the Prado to attach the Ballasts for my HID conversions (Driving Lights & High Beam) to the inner guard and bull bar and they haven't moved either as yet.
                ptnlinda
                Member
                Last edited by ptnlinda; 18-01-2013, 12:44 PM.
                2012 GXL White Prado. TJM BUllbar, TJM Winch, TJM Side Steps and Bush Bars, Black Widow Drawers, MSA Fridge Drop Slide, TJM Dual Battery Setup with Optima Battery, TJM Snorkel, Black Widow Roof Rack with Fred's Arm & TJM Awning, GME 3340 UHF, HID Drivivng Lights, TJM full underbody protection, Morosso Oil catch can, MSA Canvas Seat Covers, Kaymar Rear Bar with Dual Wheel Carriers. Cooper STMax tyres on original rims.Scanguage II.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hi mr random
                  I am looking at mounting some solar panels on the roof as well, are the panels strong enough to pack camping gear on top of them ????


                  Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
                  A couple of more recent shots with the panel on the roof.





                  Prado 120 GXL v6 Petrol 2003, Lovell 50mm raised springs -HD Front -Medium Rear, Bilstein Shocks, 600w inverter, Rhino roof rack and tray.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I haven't tried that. My panels fold up and are stored vertically in the car in a bag when we travel. I have certainly toyed with the idea of putting the rackbag on top with the sleeping bags and clothes etc. This is so that the panel doesn't have to get packed and unpacked and packed again. I wouldn't even think about anything heavier or harder than that. Assuming I grab the 130W folding panel I suspect it will travel on the roofrack as it is about 1100mm x 1000mm and folded may not fit next to the fridge. Bit of suck it and see.

                    I have done a lot of ks with the panel in the rack but none with anything on top.
                    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      have just installed a 135 watt cell onto the roof with custom racks. i leave my fridge in the car for work and this saves me having to put the charger on every night. Also great for camping when not driving around. Will make some quick release brackets so i can move the cell away from the car soon. I wanted it nice and low to keep under the car parks.
                      Would like to make a pipe rack out of 2" pipe and have the cell sitting lower than the pipe so i can carry lengths of wood etc without removing the cell.

                      that will have to wait.

                      Total cost so far. 135 w cell with regulator $385. Steel: nil . Left over from previous jobs. Time: 3 hours.
                      Anderson plugs and 6mm wire to back of car: $20.









                      08 VX D4D, Lift, Safari Snorkle, Trailblazer Fridge, Custom Storeage System, BFG, ARB Safari Bar, Wife, Kids, Codan NGT HF Radio, Debt.
                      06 100 Series Sahara, Bilteins, Kings, Beaudesert 3", Diff drop, Unichip Q4, Safari Intercooler, EGR delete, 20ft Bushtracker, Codan Envoy more coming.
                      Sometimes i wake up Grumpy, most times i leave her sleep.

                      Comment


                      • #12




                        08 VX D4D, Lift, Safari Snorkle, Trailblazer Fridge, Custom Storeage System, BFG, ARB Safari Bar, Wife, Kids, Codan NGT HF Radio, Debt.
                        06 100 Series Sahara, Bilteins, Kings, Beaudesert 3", Diff drop, Unichip Q4, Safari Intercooler, EGR delete, 20ft Bushtracker, Codan Envoy more coming.
                        Sometimes i wake up Grumpy, most times i leave her sleep.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          What's the span between supports 1200mm? Are you sure that is enough with the bouncy bouncy that a 4wd gets?
                          My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Nice job Rusty
                            Prado 120 GXL v6 Petrol 2003, Lovell 50mm raised springs -HD Front -Medium Rear, Bilstein Shocks, 600w inverter, Rhino roof rack and tray.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              So far good. The mounts are holding up and have no concern re mount points. Cells have been bouncing around on caravans for years with far less support.
                              Will start the new rack made from 2" ppe soon and post more pics.
                              So far the wind noise was annoying so I have cut a piece of 40 mm conduit and slipped over the front leading edge and inserted a thin plastic cutting board under the conduit and over the front bar. This has reduced the buffeting noise. I think the new pipe rack will be better but will need to have a piece of thin plate under the front like they do on the ARB roof racks.
                              08 VX D4D, Lift, Safari Snorkle, Trailblazer Fridge, Custom Storeage System, BFG, ARB Safari Bar, Wife, Kids, Codan NGT HF Radio, Debt.
                              06 100 Series Sahara, Bilteins, Kings, Beaudesert 3", Diff drop, Unichip Q4, Safari Intercooler, EGR delete, 20ft Bushtracker, Codan Envoy more coming.
                              Sometimes i wake up Grumpy, most times i leave her sleep.

                              Comment

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