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  • Alternator?

    Hoping this might be an easy answer for someone....

    Driving the car home the other day (2003 1KD-FTV), the radio and other electrical items start to fade. Get home, turn off the engine, won't restart (won't turn over - acts like a dead battery). I jump start it and it idles fine. Try to drive a little bit and it's very sluggish - of real concern (and confusion) is that the brake and abs lights are on.

    I'm thinking that the alternator is gone and that it's running of of whatever is left in the batteries (not enough power to start the motor, but perhaps run for a while). Are those lights on because whatever runs the brakes and abs rely on electricity and there's not enough to run them properly?

    I'm afraid I don't have a code reader - would have to have it towed.

    Thanks,
    Clive
    ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
    2003 LC120 (European Prado) 1KD-FTV 3.0 D4D. All stock including standard transmission. Apparently not one of the VIN numbers that has an injector seating problem but keeping an eye on it anyway....

  • #2
    You may be right. Were the lights on when it was being jump started?
    Greg - 08 D4D Prado,
    Some trips done - Cape York, Fraser Island, Simpson Desert / Central Aust, Vic High Country.

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    • #3
      They'd be your warning lights letting you know there's no charge going into your battery, and everything you described is consistent with a dead alternator. I had the same thing in my 90 series a while back, except that it was the handbrake light, air filer warning light & battery light all on together.

      No need to tow your car. Just hook your car up with another with jumper leads (earth the negative to a shiny bolt on the engine or something though) and leave the other car running, pumping charge into the battery for long enough to fully charge it (no need to run your car during this process). When I did this with mine I was a long way from home and was able to drive the car for nearly 6 hours I think before it got low again. I managed to get home before putting it in to a local mechanic to fix it.

      The car will not have enough power to drive when the battery is nearly dead either and receiving no charge from the alternator and will do exactly what you described. So put a lot of charge into it before taking it to a mechanic to replace the alternator unless they're just down the road. They'll test your alternator for charge output before replacing it anyway just to make sure.
      Brett1979
      Avid PP Poster!
      Last edited by Brett1979; 13-01-2013, 10:25 PM.
      2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

      Comment


      • #4
        Excellent answers, thanks to both of you (answer to Corigator - no, no idiot lights came on while the car was running off the other car); you're confirming what I've managed to find elsewhere on the forum, so it looks like I'll let the other car charge the batteries for a good half hour (with my car not running) before trying to take it somewhere. On that note, I have to order the alternator from a place in Germany; not only is going to Toyota obviously not an option (unless I want to spend about 1200 euro), but even the aftermarket places in Czech Republic are easily 50% more than Germany. Will have to pay for labor though (anyone know of a DIY write up or youtube video for this for the 1KD-FTV?) - I have no access to an indoor garage and we're at about -5C these days.
        Thanks again,
        Clive
        ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
        2003 LC120 (European Prado) 1KD-FTV 3.0 D4D. All stock including standard transmission. Apparently not one of the VIN numbers that has an injector seating problem but keeping an eye on it anyway....

        Comment


        • #5
          Double check your IGN1 and IGN2 fuses, one of the guys had a dodgey trailer or something short out and pop one of those two fuses and gave the same symptoms.

          Cheaper to check them and replace than take the car in an have an auto-elec charge your for an investigation that may not be needed.
          2014 D4D 150 GXL Automatic - CHARCOAL

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Matty & Loz View Post
            Double check your IGN1 and IGN2 fuses, one of the guys had a dodgey trailer or something short out and pop one of those two fuses and gave the same symptoms.

            Cheaper to check them and replace than take the car in an have an auto-elec charge your for an investigation that may not be needed.
            No doubt a good tip, but the fuses are good. I'm actually happy about that - I've always been told that fuses blow for a reason, which can be difficult to diagnose. No, I'm rather confident at this point that it's the alternator. Will take a couple of weeks, but will post back when I know for sure....
            ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
            2003 LC120 (European Prado) 1KD-FTV 3.0 D4D. All stock including standard transmission. Apparently not one of the VIN numbers that has an injector seating problem but keeping an eye on it anyway....

            Comment


            • #7
              Most likely alternator or battery, does the alternator come on before you start the car?

              Sometimes the alternator will put out some charge, enough to keep the fail light off
              but not enough to charge the battery.

              The other systems you mention require a lot of amps to run which is why they are lit.

              Easiest thing is to test the charger voltage, connect a voltmeter across the battery
              terminals, charge voltage should be 13.8V - 14.4V if the alternator is ok.

              If you get the above voltage the battery is most likely faulty.

              Any autoelect will usually do a quick test for free.

              Cheers
              LeighW
              HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

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              • #8
                Many years ago I had a similar fault (on a different vehicle) and it turned out to be worn brushes on the regulator (part of the alternator) and it was a cheap fix - less than $100 to replace the regulator. Hopefully you don't need a whole new alternator.

                VXWesty
                [SIZE=1]2011 Crystal Pearl VX D4D Auto, MT ATZ 4 Rib, Full River 105AH / Redarc SBi12 DBS (TJM Tray), CKMA12 Air Comp, Alpine INA-W910R - PDX-5 - Type-R Speakers, Engel MT60FP, Rhino Alloy Platform, Foxwing Awning, Rear 12V Cig and Engel Socket, ARB Deluxe Combi Bar, Safari Snorkel, LF 240 XGT's + HID Upgrade, HB3 (9005) HID Upgrade, Bilstein / Lovells 2" Lift Suspension, Chip-It, Alpine PKG-RSE2 Roof DVD Monitors, Maxtrax, GME TX3540 + AE409L, Avenger TDS 9.5, ARB UVP, ARB Protection Steps.
                [/SIZE]

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                • #9
                  I can get a remanufactured Lucas alternator for about 220 euro (About AUS$280).

                  While I'm ok doing things with mechanical parts of the vehicle (brakes, etc), I'm always a little afraid of the electrical stuff. From what I've read, alternators can go bad (or act like they've gone bad) because of bearings, diodes, and brushes. I could probably comfortably replace/repair any of those things, but I would not be a happy camper if I did that, reinstalled it, and found out that I had done something wrong.... this alternator is in a position that taking it off and on is not a question of a couple of bolts - I want to make sure that whatever I put back on there has the best chance of working. For the sake of $200 or less, I think I'll go with the "professionally" rebuilt item.

                  Having said that, in order to learn, I probably will try to rebuild the original Toyota one if there's a kit available. I remember my Dad in the 70s saying that Lucas wiring was so bad that the wipers wouldn't work if it rained. Hopefully they've improved since then, but I won't expect it to last more than 100k km.
                  ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
                  2003 LC120 (European Prado) 1KD-FTV 3.0 D4D. All stock including standard transmission. Apparently not one of the VIN numbers that has an injector seating problem but keeping an eye on it anyway....

                  Comment

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