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  • price of having heavy grade wiring installed for fridge

    Hi guys. Just curious, I have a waeco fridge that we use and have been enquiring to the big two shops, ARB and TJM regards having heavy grade wiring and sockets installed in the cargo area.

    I wont beat around, TJM = $180.00 ARB = $250.TJM sounds high end for job, the other....yeah...okkkkkk!!. Get the feeling arb need to cover the cost of having 15 staff in there shop and a very expensive looking shop front...just a thought..could be wrong..probably not.

  • #2
    Hi QLDer
    You will find that most on the forum have run fridge/Auxillary power supplies to the rear cargo areas of thier Prados. With a little research, help from mates or your local auto electrician you will be happy with this very useful addition.
    I would rather take the time to do the instal of quality components myself, knowing the ins and outs of the system.
    Oh and of course save on those exorbitant charges.
    Cheers
    Troy
    SOUTH AUSTRALIA GATEWAY TO THE OUTBACK!
    2003 GXL V6 AUTO 120 CHAMPAGNE MICA [DUNE]
    LIST OF ACCESSORIES GROWING, WISH LIST SLOWLY DECLINING

    Comment


    • #3
      Ran mine myself not hard, used 6mm cable in sleeving from 15amp cat circuit breaker , but should take Auto sparkie an hour and a bit so probably 150 -180 including partsClick image for larger version

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      Regards Mark
      Last edited by Marbo; 26-11-2012, 10:33 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        from what ive read and people i know who have had experiences with certain companys . also after talking to people at certain companies about issues that i am already informed about and hearing their answers, i would not let them touch my vehicle with a very long pole . i had my vehicle wired with a redarc controller through to the back with an anderson plug and 4 x 12v outlets by my local auto elec who has been in business for 30 years . ithink it cost about $400 , but i know some idiot didn't do it and it shouldn't catch fire and hasn't so far . $180 sounds pretty good .
        03 grande v6 , with added stuff that makes it go places . RTFM people !
        founding member of the " you don't need all that crap on a prado association "
        "you only use 15% of your brain " Einstein . " so why not burn off the other 85% " Cheech & Chong .
        petrol , petrol ,petrol , you know it makes sense ! im kavpetrolbitch

        Comment


        • #5
          thanks to all.Will look into doing myself but feel the 180 price is fair now....I understand what Foxclan was saying, its so much better doing job yourself when you can.

          Marbo, are you using some kind of volt gauge that plug into your original 12v port there so you can see the battery charge. Thanks for the pics too, the swith setup looks really neat.
          Queenslander
          Lurker
          Last edited by Queenslander; 26-11-2012, 04:28 PM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi Q lander
            Yeh found this little volt meter on E Bay out of Honkers , cheap as handy to show state of second Batt , Ican knock you up diagram if you like

            Marbo

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Marbo,

              Like it, I will search for one, that would be handy. I just have a stock standard single battery at this time but I am considering just upgrading the wire direct from battery for rear cargo outlet at this time. Would love a diagram on that if you would be so kind however I would be curious to see your dual battery setup aswell. Question for you. For someone that has no auto electrical experience but is ok on the wrench is there a simple work method of running a heavy grade wire from battery to rear cargo that i could manage. Thanks Marbo, Rob

              Comment


              • #8
                Click image for larger version

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ID:	641577Hi Rob
                please find attached basic diagram , Running cable is relatively easy be careful running wire through firewall grommet , have heard of people damaging main wiring harness , ouch $$$ All panels clip off easy on Prado can run with existing harness along door sills just use cable ties where you think your new addition might move and rub
                I have used a GSL 100amp solenoid only because I get them wholesale and we aren't that hard core on the 4x4 thing I do recommend the red arc tho and have a friend who sells them on net at fair price . ps SEND Email or fax to send Diagram
                Hope this helps .. Mark Item Number 120802225267 on Ebay for LED Voltmeter
                Last edited by Marbo; 27-11-2012, 02:17 PM. Reason: Upload PIc

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hi Qlder,you could also try ABR sidewinder,they do a drop in wire kit for the 150s.

                  http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page190.html

                  I have sourced some items from them and have been happy with the delivery/service and products work ok [battery monitor is a little hard to read though]
                  New 2015 150s GX 5 seater with floor mats, towbar and a big wish list
                  Previously a 2004 120s 1KZ GX silver manual with stuff
                  before that a 1996 RV6 90S with lots of gear

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hi Queenslander,

                    A bit more detail for you, if you’re running an auxiliary battery or if not, you should use at least 6 B&S wire to the back, this is to reduce the voltage drop. The auto elect I have known for years said also 8 B&S will do, with minimal voltage drop.
                    If you decide to do it yourself here are some overall costing’s mounted on the drivers side?

                    (Positive Terminal) 6 B&S Red Cable @ $5.00 per meter need min 4meters $20.00 (Buy a little extra thought) - Trust Me this is the over inflated price you can get it cheaper, but look at the overall amp rate. (Try to get above 125+ Amp rated cable - Tinned Preferably)

                    (Negative Terminal) 6 B&S Black Cable @ 5.00 per meter need 1 Meter $5.00 (There is a chassis erch on the drivers side behind the Taillights, otherwise run an earth direct from the battery, this would be a recommended idea. I currently use the dual earth method though. 1 to the chassis earth and one back to the battery - Better to be safe than sorry).
                    Circuit Breaker - either 20 to 40 amp should do, from the positive cable @ $8.95. You can also use a fuse, but if you chose a fuse, would recommend a mega fuse that will carry the cable size. I would suggest that either the fuse or circuit breaker be located as near to the battery as possible, no longer than 30cmm.

                    Socket/s - will be dependent on your fridge - A reputable brand would be between $5.00 and $20.00 per socket, but look at a dual socket if you want to run a secondary item. (Lights etc) If you wish to monitor your battery look at DC to DC Amp or Voltage Monitors.
                    Lugs and Cable connectors should cost no more than $5.00 for each side of cable. (Do yourself a favour - Use heat shrink to make the job neater and spaghetti under the bonnet)

                    The labour to do it is no more than an hour or two, dependant on how many tinnies you have.
                    Also be aware that you never want to run your starter battery flat, Isolators, DC to DC chargers may assist with this, especially running two batteries.

                    At the end of the day, questions that need to be asked from ARB and TJM, is what cable size they will use, Voltage Drop Etc. The store sales person should be able to give you more detail on exactlly what they are selling you, otherwise they do not have the correct knoweldge to give you the correct information.

                    Personally it is not a hard job and you'd be happy with the result, doing it youself. Once done you'd need to follow the procedure as below.
                    1. Smile Be Happy (Life is always Meant to Be Happy)
                    2. Tell someone how good you are
                    3. Hop on one Leg as you are patting your head , 3 Times
                    4. Look at the job and admire something that you have achieved.

                    I hope this is some assistance.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi Queenslander,

                      A bit more detail for you, if you’re running an auxiliary battery or if not, you should use at least 6 B&S wire to the back, this is to reduce the voltage drop. The auto elect I have known for years said also 8 B&S will do, with minimal voltage drop.
                      If you decide to do it yourself here are some overall costing’s mounted on the drivers side?

                      (Positive Terminal) 6 B&S Red Cable @ $5.00 per meter need min 4meters $20.00 (Buy a little extra thought) - Trust Me this is the over inflated price you can get it cheaper, but look at the overall amp rate. (Try to get above 125+ Amp rated cable - Tinned Preferably)

                      (Negative Terminal) 6 B&S Black Cable @ 5.00 per meter need 1 Meter $5.00 (There is a chassis erch on the drivers side behind the Taillights, otherwise run an earth direct from the battery, this would be a recommended idea. I currently use the dual earth method though. 1 to the chassis earth and one back to the battery - Better to be safe than sorry).
                      Circuit Breaker - either 20 to 40 amp should do, from the positive cable @ $8.95. You can also use a fuse, but if you chose a fuse, would recommend a mega fuse that will carry the cable size. I would suggest that either the fuse or circuit breaker be located as near to the battery as possible, no longer than 30cmm.

                      Socket/s - will be dependent on your fridge - A reputable brand would be between $5.00 and $20.00 per socket, but look at a dual socket if you want to run a secondary item. (Lights etc) If you wish to monitor your battery look at DC to DC Amp or Voltage Monitors.
                      Lugs and Cable connectors should cost no more than $5.00 for each side of cable. (Do yourself a favour - Use heat shrink to make the job neater and spaghetti under the bonnet)

                      The labour to do it is no more than an hour or two, dependant on how many tinnies you have.
                      Also be aware that you never want to run your starter battery flat, Isolators, DC to DC chargers may assist with this, especially running two batteries.

                      At the end of the day, questions that need to be asked from ARB and TJM, is what cable size they will use, Voltage Drop Etc. The store sales person should be able to give you more detail on exactlly what they are selling you, otherwise they do not have the correct knoweldge to give you the correct information.

                      Personally it is not a hard job and you'd be happy with the result, doing it youself. Once done you'd need to follow the procedure as below.
                      1. Smile Be Happy (Life is always Meant to Be Happy)
                      2. Tell someone how good you are
                      3. Hop on one Leg as you are patting your head , 3 Times
                      4. Look at the job and admire something that you have achieved.

                      I hope this is some assistance.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hi Lads or Ladetts,

                        Sorry about the double response.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The parts are not expensive to buy, if you know where to go and who to speak to
                          Have a look here and message me for pricing on anything you find you want: http://www.ionnic.com/electrical.html
                          Cheers,
                          Jus.
                          [B]2005 VX V6[/B]

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            cheers guys...so much info to take in...will get back to you when i have a sneak peak...will mull over...thanks again

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hi all
                              Why heavy grade wiring in the cargo area for the fridge? My 55 L fridge/freezer uses 60 watt and I believe most other brands around are the same. The wiring is good for 120 watt. I had my fridge/freezer connected for up to four weeks, turned it only off at night time because I only had 1 battery. I also run sometimes a battery charger at the same time.

                              Ron

                              Comment

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