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  • AGM Battery Under Bonet v6 120 Series

    Just installed an Outback Accessories Tray to a 2003 v6, behind the driver side headlight. The manufacturers mounting points for the power steering reservoir are placed under or around the radiator hose and personally it did not fit. (Bracket was ill fitting and did not hold the reservoir and also not enough clearance for the radiator hose, even if it did fit) Not sure if the wrong product was supplied, but was bought from a reputable after market supplier. (Product Number marked on the Box BTT64P)

    To cut a long story short , after customising and relocation the Reservoir closer to the Air Filter (simular to the position of the competitors products) adding new power steering hoses by customising (as originally I cut them to fit the tray manufacturers mounting point). The job ended up being done after a few long hours.

    My question now is does anyone have personal preference regarding the redarc or ctek mmpt DC to DC battery charger.

    Also can you fit an AGM Battery under the bonnet?

    Thoughts?

  • #2
    All VRSLA (AGM) batteries I've used don't take kindly to excessive heat so I would not use one under the bonnet and have always mounted them in the cargo area.
    "Sure it’s quiet, for a diesel, but that’s like being well-behaved… for a murderer."- Jeremy Clarkson

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: the cTek vs Redarc.....

      I haven't done the research yet, but a good mate of mine has and advise me to go for the Redarc as he said it appears it can handle the heat and dust / moisture that u would get from being under the bonnet whereas the the Ctek apparently doesn't like heat and I think its not waterproof.....
      [I]cheers..... Rob (macca)[/I]
      [I][B][COLOR=DarkRed]Car-4: 1996 Defender Tdi [/COLOR][/B][/I]
      [I][B][COLOR=Blue]Car-3: 1996 Discovery Tdi Auto[/COLOR][/B][/I]
      [B][I][COLOR=Green]Car-2: 1993 Suzuki Vitara 4Dr (modified for Playing) [/COLOR][COLOR=#ff0000]Now Retired[/COLOR][COLOR=Green] [/COLOR][/I][/B]
      [B][I][COLOR=DarkOrchid]Car-1: 2010 Toyota Prado 150's (Missus Car/current touring vehicle)[/COLOR][/I][/B]

      Comment


      • #4
        I've had AGMs under the bonnet of my 90 for about 2 years and all the life of the 120. No problms with overheating and you are going the right way with DC DC charging. Neither of the Prados had sparking plugs though.
        My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

        Comment


        • #5
          Install a normal isolator, an Optima battery, and a booster diode if required.

          An Optima D31 for instance will give a total usable capacity of 75AH and a recharge time of
          around an hour, no DC DC charger can match that.

          If at some time you add a camper with another optima just a matter of running some cable
          and you end up with total usable capacity of 150AH and a two hour recharge time.

          Cheers
          Leigh
          LeighW
          Avid PP Poster!
          Last edited by LeighW; 18-10-2012, 08:46 AM.
          HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi Lads,

            Thanks for your Great Comments, I have previously had a Ctek D250s and it worked fine charging a full river 120amp AGM Battery, poweriing an Evakool 55ltr FridgeMate Fridge, however the Ctek was not mounted under the bonnet nor was the battery. (4Runner)

            I am interested in the heating issues with the CTEK being uder the Bonnet, I know they have a heat sensor, does this affect the amount of charge that it will carry to the battery or does it shut down at a certain temp?

            Also for instance if bought heat shield from ABR Sidewinder would this assist with the cooling of an AGM Battery or is it just a gimmick?

            I would likee your guys thoughts and they will be muchly appreciated or am I barking up the wrong Ally with the AGM and should put just a deep cycle (Amptech) Battery in?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by LeighW View Post
              Install a normal isolator, an Optima battery, and a booster diode if required.

              An Optima D31 for instance will give a total usable capacity of 75AH and a recharge time of
              around an hour, no DC DC charger can match that.

              If at some time you add a camper with another optima just a matter of running some cable
              and you end up with total usable capacity of 150AH and a two hour recharge time.

              Cheers
              Leigh
              What he said
              Winston.

              White 2009 120 Series D4D GXL manual.

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi Wombat and why do you think you need a DC/DC device.

                Before you spend any money, check your operating voltage.

                With a 2003 Toyota, your vehicle predates the low voltage vehicles and yours actually operates at a similar voltage to a DC/DC device but your alternator has way more current capacity.

                So in your case, fitting a DC/DC device would actually slow down your battery charging, not improve it.

                Again, before you do anything, the next time you do a drive of 30 minutes or more, pull up with your motor still running and check the voltage at your cranking battery.

                You will most likely find it is 14+v and this is heaps high enough to charge batteries better than any DC/DC device can.

                Comment


                • #9
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                  i fabbed up this heat sheild so i could fit an AGM in mine. it stops all the radient heat from reaching the battery and allows cool flow of air from the front of the vehicle. thinking of doing same for main battery now as it gets very hot after a drive ( the AGM however is only just warm)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Wombat1 View Post
                    Just installed an Outback Accessories Tray to a 2003 v6, behind the driver side headlight. The manufacturers mounting points for the power steering reservoir are placed under or around the radiator hose and personally it did not fit. (Bracket was ill fitting and did not hold the reservoir and also not enough clearance for the radiator hose, even if it did fit) Not sure if the wrong product was supplied, but was bought from a reputable after market supplier. (Product Number marked on the Box BTT64P)

                    To cut a long story short , after customising and relocation the Reservoir closer to the Air Filter (simular to the position of the competitors products) adding new power steering hoses by customising (as originally I cut them to fit the tray manufacturers mounting point). The job ended up being done after a few long hours.

                    My question now is does anyone have personal preference regarding the redarc or ctek mmpt DC to DC battery charger.

                    Also can you fit an AGM Battery under the bonnet?

                    Thoughts?


                    Hi Wombat,
                    In my experience it works pretty well.
                    I am running AGM batteries under the bonnet for many years without any issues, one AGM battery moved from the 90 series into the 120series and still serves me well well.
                    The AGM has now done around four years and I still l get 2-3 days of cooling out of my fridge before the voltage cut-off kicks in.
                    Independently I found that fridge running time improved substantially after I increased the charging voltage with a diode.
                    Hope that helps.

                    Regards
                    Michael

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi Lads,

                      Thank you for your responses I have a 2003 V6Prado. I am still trying to understand the Diode method. Is that a change in the regulator of the alternator or a seperate way of charging the second battery? (Many moons ago possibly was possibly known as an active compacitor)

                      Normally now it would seem that isolators have been used. eg Redarc and as a further update to that metod is the DC to DC Charges that also have MMPT Charging ablities eg. redarc 1240 or ctek d250s.

                      I have a good understanding of a 12 volt system and want to I'm make the right choice before outlaying too many beans. As stated previously, I have a Ctek D250s and would like to know if it has the ability of the diode method. If not the Diode is the way tog go.

                      If the diode method is the key, can you please advise the manufactures or where to buy them from.

                      I love the picture sent by barcode and if there are more that you can be provided, it would be a wonderful help to me or others.

                      As they say each to there own, however strong advice would make it a lot easier.

                      Keep up the good work lads and look forward to your responses regarding

                      Cheers

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hi Wombat and before you spend any money, you need to determine what is the operating voltage of your vehicle.

                        I think you will find, as I posted, your Toyota predates the low operating voltage of newer Toyotas.

                        As I posted earlier in this thread, do the 30 minute drive and measure the voltage at your cranking battery.

                        If your voltage is at the 14+v mark then you can not use the diode as this will raise your operating voltage too high and you will end up cooking your batteries while on a long drive.

                        Again, if your operating voltage is 14+v you will get no advantage from any form of DC/DC device as your operating voltage is far better than what they can provide.

                        Again, until you test your vehicle’s voltage, you can’t establish which, if anything, will work.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Totally agree, you need to check the voltage first but chances are that you don't get above 14V on the Prado.

                          I don't know Ctek D250s so I cant comment on how it works or reacts on an increased voltage
                          I am using a simple voltage sensing relay which connects both batteries as soon as I get above 13v and disconnect with ignition off.
                          For my simple mind a simple high power relay is working well ;-)

                          I take from you post that you have some background knowledge so I skip the details but the function of the diode is not too complicated:
                          If sitting in the voltage sensing cable of the regulator and (if working in the correct orientation) the voltage drop is fooling the regulator to increase the charging voltage by approx 0.7 volts.

                          You most probably know that get a diode at Jaycar for a few cents (from memory I am using a 1A diode) or you can get a modified fuse for the fusebox for around $35.
                          There is a fellow from Pradopoint selling them on fleebay but I cant remember the name.
                          Search for voltage booster.

                          Regards
                          Michael

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hi Lads or Ladetts,

                            Once again thankyou for your responses. I will test the alternator's output tommorow.

                            With the Diode method would it mean you need to run the batteries (Dual) in parallel ? And hence no need for an isolator?

                            Or would it essentially mean you could have two dead batteries if you run them in parallel without the isolator, only if you are drawing to many amps (current). Therefore in this instance, would it require constant monitoring to ensure you have enough grunt too start the 4wd?

                            Sorry to be a pain, but hoping there could be a real answer and solution for all members. This matter seems to be debatable and would hate to see other spend too much coin if unnecessary.

                            V6 Dual Battery system pics would help all.

                            Thoughts?

                            Wombat1

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hi Wombat1,
                              That are two different things, don't mix them up.

                              The diode
                              is only increasing the charging voltage and has nothing to do whether you have one or two batteries.

                              The isolator
                              is making sure that your auxiliary battery is disconnected from the starter battery when the engine is not running.
                              If you don't have an isolator you indeed can run both batteries flat.

                              I would strongly suggest that you somehow disconnect the batteries as soon as the engine stops.
                              Easiest solution is if the "spanner isolator": use a spanner and disconnect the batteries manually every time you stop
                              Not really convenient, but cheap and might be a temporally solution.

                              Other option is to buy a automatic isolator which connects the batteries as soon as the charging voltage is above some 13 V and disconnects as soon as you switch off the ignition.

                              There are several nifty devices on the market but I personally would go for something simple.
                              One sample you can find in boating shops e.g. http://www.biasboating.com.au/Voltag...BEP_p/2330.htm

                              or check fleebay for dual battery isolator or Voltage Sensitive Relay.
                              There are plenty of hits for less than $80.


                              Hope that helps to clarify.
                              Regards
                              Michael

                              Comment

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