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Problem with voltage drop running Waeco cf50 from rear sockets

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  • Problem with voltage drop running Waeco cf50 from rear sockets

    Hi All,

    I have been finding that I was getting minimal running time from my Waeco CF50, before the Waeco's battery protection was cutting in and shutting it off. I am running it off my secondary battery, a new Century Marine Pro 720 100ah, from either the heavy duty socket I had installed in the rear before delivery, or the Waeco Fastcharge wiring & socket unit I also installed.

    I have just bought a Powertech MS6170 power monitor to see what is going on, and found the following;

    Reading at battery and socket before fridge connected: 12.6v

    Reading from socket on load (Waeco connected): Voltage drops to 11.8v 11.6v (Battery reading still 12.6v 12.4v)

    Amp draw: 4.5amp

    I thought the wiring installed on the first socket looked heavy enough, and I would have thought the Waeco wiring unit would also be sufficent, but apparently not.

    Has anyone else had similar issues with the Waeco wiring unit not being sufficent, and any suggestions on overcoming this problem?

    Cheers

    TripleC
    2008 GXL D4D Auto
    ARB winch bar, Warn XD9000 winch, IPF XS Lights, Snorkel, ARB luggage rack, dual battery, tow bar, cargo barrier, Cooper ST's, GME TX3440 UHF radio

  • #2
    sounds like you have a lot of resistance in your cable's to the plug socket. I recently re wired the cig plug in the rear for my 40lt waeco and i used a 6mm twin core. Check what size cable has been used and it might need upgrading to more suitable cable. If you are ever in the singleton area feel free to drop by my work (pm me for details) and we can check it out for you.
    2005 Black gxl 1kz, Steinbauer chip, ome lift, arb delux bar, Lightforce genisis 210's, 30inch led light, tigerz roof rack, GME 3540 uhf, genuine towbar, custom spare wheel spacer, ors draws, drop slide, waeco, dual batteries, twin locked, st maxx tyres, winch.

    Soon to come-35's and longer shocks.

    Comment


    • #3
      I have a 2009 d4d, also with the same fridge and the weaco wiring (twin plug). I must say i've never seen the fridge cut out, either that or i've never paid enough attention to it. If you're using the weaco twin plug do you have the button pressed in or not? (pressed in is On with the engine). Also i have the frige set to the lowest cut off setting, whatever that is.

      If there are any specific test you want me to run, seeing as we have almost identical setups, let me know.

      Comment


      • #4
        Assuming that you are running adequate size wire with that sort of voltage drop I would start by looking for a poor joint or connection in the circuit.

        I had a similar problem with a solar system that turned out to be a bad solder joint.
        [B]Steve[/B]

        2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by krypto View Post
          Assuming that you are running adequate size wire with that sort of voltage drop I would start by looking for a poor joint or connection in the circuit.

          I had a similar problem with a solar system that turned out to be a bad solder joint.

          Yeah I agree. I had a similar problem in my old 95 series with a crusty blade fuse. My CF-50 stopped playing the game completely.


          Chriso
          [COLOR=blue]Current rig - 150 GXL D4D Auto TJM bullbar. Airtec Snorkel. ARB Underbonnet Comp.
          Previous rig - 02 TD GXL.[/COLOR]

          Comment


          • #6
            I think the wiring may be the problem.

            I use 6 B&S and have no trouble.
            Set up is attached
            Attached Files
            Pedro

            2007 D4D Auto

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Guys,

              Thanks for the great advice. The wiring for both the Pre-order fitted socket (wired from battery on drivers side to rear drivers side) and the Waeco Fast Charge unit (wired from battery on drivers side to rear passenger side) are both 6mm, so the gauge of wire should be OK, so I started checking connections as suggested.

              First point was to clean all the terminals and switch them from the side of the brass main battery terminal connectors to the auxillary connections. I then removed the inline glass fuse connector on the Waeco line, and tested it without it.

              It looks like the 15a fuse connection on the Waeco wiring unit is the majority of the problem. I ran the same test using the Powertech monitor, and the voltage drop from battery (12.6v) now only came down to 12.2v 12.1v (4.3% gain from the original drop to 11.7v).

              Looks like I'm off to Supercheap to get a new 6mm blade fuse holder, but what rating fuse is suggested (25a, 30a), and is it better to put it closer to the battery or the Waeco outlet?

              Thanks again.
              2008 GXL D4D Auto
              ARB winch bar, Warn XD9000 winch, IPF XS Lights, Snorkel, ARB luggage rack, dual battery, tow bar, cargo barrier, Cooper ST's, GME TX3440 UHF radio

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by TripleC View Post
                Hi Guys,

                Thanks for the great advice. The wiring for both the Pre-order fitted socket (wired from battery on drivers side to rear drivers side) and the Waeco Fast Charge unit (wired from battery on drivers side to rear passenger side) are both 6mm
                Thanks again.
                I understand that 6mm is not the same as 6 B&S which is around 13.5mm.

                Might be best to ask a marine auto sparky to confirm.
                Pedro

                2007 D4D Auto

                Comment


                • #9
                  6mm is no way big enough. It is not 6mm2 but a size calculated by cable OD that includes insulation. Super cheap 6mm wire is the same. Go to a specialist battery / cable / 12V shop.
                  mjrandom
                  Out of control poster!
                  Last edited by mjrandom; 14-10-2012, 08:10 PM. Reason: Autocorrect stupidity
                  My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
                    6mm is no way big enough. It is not 6mm2 but a size calculated by cable OD that includes insulation. Super cheap 6mm wire is the same. Go to a specialist battery / cable / 12V shop.
                    Mjrandom is spot on! 6mm cable is not 6mm cable if you know what I mean. What you need is 6mm2 cable, which has a diameter much bigger than 6mm. It refers to the cross section area of the copper not the diameter including the shield. Any good auto elec will know the difference if your not sure. Search on google for cable size calculator ( there are heaps of them) they will tell you what cable size to use taking into consideration current draw and length of cable run required. Remember if you are running 3metres from battery to appliance then the cable run is actually 6m because the current runs back to the battery via the neg cable. Sounds confusing to me so just buy some 6B&S and be done with it!
                    Cheers
                    Phil
                    06 120 GXL 1KZ-TE man, modified exhaust, K&N, OME 2",spacers, Sovereign BB, Safari Snorkel, Hella 4000, 33" muddies, ARB 60L fridge / slide ,custom rear drawer, cargo barrier and table, Ironman 9500lb Winch, TJM underbody guards, DIY Radiator bash plate, Outback Ideas recovery points, AJ's sliders, CKMA12, lockers, ext rear breather, UHF, dual batt, SBi12, ARB alloy roof cage, ARB side awning...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Also a voltage drop from 12.6 to 12.1 is not really acceptable IMHO. The more voltage drop ( resistance) you have in the circuit means the battery is waisting energy which could otherwise be used to keep your beer cold for longer. I used 13mm2 in my fridge set up and under load the voltage drop measured was .02 volt. A lot less than half a volt.
                      Cheers
                      Phil
                      06 120 GXL 1KZ-TE man, modified exhaust, K&N, OME 2",spacers, Sovereign BB, Safari Snorkel, Hella 4000, 33" muddies, ARB 60L fridge / slide ,custom rear drawer, cargo barrier and table, Ironman 9500lb Winch, TJM underbody guards, DIY Radiator bash plate, Outback Ideas recovery points, AJ's sliders, CKMA12, lockers, ext rear breather, UHF, dual batt, SBi12, ARB alloy roof cage, ARB side awning...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks for the great advice. I will now look to swap to 6 b&s to resolve the issue but would still appreciate any tips on fuse size, and is it better to have it closer to battery or outlet.

                        I hope the 6 b&s will fit into the Waeco outlet, as it has switching between constant power or only on ignition.
                        2008 GXL D4D Auto
                        ARB winch bar, Warn XD9000 winch, IPF XS Lights, Snorkel, ARB luggage rack, dual battery, tow bar, cargo barrier, Cooper ST's, GME TX3440 UHF radio

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The fuse protects the wiring and the fridge so fuse should be close to the battery. Think about this if there was a fault in the wiring and the fuse is next to the fridge the fuse won't prevent the cable melting down and burning which it would if positioned near the battery.

                          Edit: can't comment on the Waeco fitting as my fridge runs Anderson power poles and 6 B&S is too big for those so I ran the 6 B&S to a power block and then ran short leads of 6 or 8 mm2 to the fridge. On the ithingy at the moment so not sure. I bought tails from Anderson rated for 45 A.
                          mjrandom
                          Out of control poster!
                          Last edited by mjrandom; 15-10-2012, 08:16 PM.
                          My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by TripleC View Post
                            Thanks for the great advice. I will now look to swap to 6 b&s to resolve the issue but would still appreciate any tips on fuse size, and is it better to have it closer to battery or outlet.

                            I hope the 6 b&s will fit into the Waeco outlet, as it has switching between constant power or only on ignition.

                            You may need to modify the Waeco lead along the lines of attached.

                            I have found it better to have an Anderson plug , instead of cigarette lighter .
                            Don't have a photo however I took off the standard cigarette lighter section and replaced it with an Anderson Plug and this fits into the Anderson plug on Battery as per attached photo.

                            Have also modified battery chargers with an Anderson Plug .
                            Apart from 2nd battery in vehicle an Anderson plug at rear enables me to connect to Caravan to charge van battery whilst travelling.

                            Have a 6metre 6 B&S lead with an Anderson Plug at each end and when car is disconnected from van by connecting up this lead (car to van) car 2nd battery can be charged at the same time as van battery.
                            Attached Files
                            Pedro

                            2007 D4D Auto

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hi Guys,

                              How did you run the cable from battery to rear? The 6B&S looks considerably thicker than the 6mm used on the Waeco Fast Charge unit (which I have run through the firewall, and under side kick plates), so I am wondering if it is a challenge to get through the firewall, or if it can be run along/through chasis rail underneath, and some how bring it back up towards the back?

                              Cheers,

                              Craig
                              2008 GXL D4D Auto
                              ARB winch bar, Warn XD9000 winch, IPF XS Lights, Snorkel, ARB luggage rack, dual battery, tow bar, cargo barrier, Cooper ST's, GME TX3440 UHF radio

                              Comment

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