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Sway bar disconnects on a 95?

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  • Sway bar disconnects on a 95?

    Anyone running their lifted 95 without sway bars or has anyone discovered sway bar disconnects that will fit the 95?

    Will the front CV's and shocks cope with the increased flex?

    Any comments please?
    6
    Yes I have
    33.33%
    2
    No I haven't
    66.67%
    4
    Disconnects fitted
    0%
    0
    MalcomM
    Senior Member
    Last edited by MalcomM; 05-10-2012, 09:48 AM.
    Malcom
    Prado 95 TX turbo diesel
    LC100 GXL turbo diesel

  • #2
    im running with out a front sway bar, rolls areound a bit on the road, but apart from the boots splitting (hey, that half shafts are 15 years old) i havent had any drive line troubles. i will be replacing the front haklf shafts over the next week or so, ill have a good look at them then, but i think they will be fine. as for the shocks, as long as you arent launching the thing then they will be fine. the bump stops will stop over compressing them and if your doing anything with a chance of suddenly over extending them then you should probably be taking it easy anyway.
    1997 3.4 V6 Rv. mods; 1 1/2 inch bodylift, 285/75/R16 cooper STTs, 16x8 sunraysia style black steel rims '0' offset, 2 inch heavy duty springs, bilstein shocks (80 series rear), GME remote mounted UHF.

    Comment


    • #3
      You can remove one side link from the front sway bar and it will not hit anything when you go offroad, but the back bar does need to be either left in place or fully removed - you cannot remove one link.

      Comment


      • #4
        Unfortunately I was never able to find disconnects on the market, apart from some home-job style ones being sold in USA (using long bolts, nuts, etc).

        Disconnecting the front sway bar will increase the flex tremendously, but also increase the risk of CV joint failure. I'd say give it a try off-road at least once, it's easy to do, and the results are impressive. Just be careful not to turn the steering when flexing at extreme angles - they will not cope with full steering plus full flex.

        Most people won't remove their sway bars ON-ROAD due to legal, insurance and corning reasons. For anyone that does remove their sway bar for on-road use - consider that no matter how well you adjust to it's poor handling, the trouble is when something unexpected happens. Sway bars are not just for body roll, they are also for stability control. If the driver must suddenly swerve/stop for an animal/vehicle, any chance of maintaining control of that 2 tonne + lifted vehicle goes out the window.
        glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?17237 www.youtube.com/user/glenep www.fb.com/groups/ToyotaPrado90

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        • #5
          I'am with Glen on this one. I broke the front sway bar a couple of months ago while on a weekend away. Couldn't work out why the 90 was going so well over terrain it would normally have some trouble. Even had a few comments from so Pootrol owner's at how much flex the front had. Anyway didn't work out it was knackered until the drive home fully loaded towing a camper. The old girl leaned all over the shop, and almost made you sea sick. Moral of the story is it fine for slow track work, but high speed black top, Leave it connected
          96 3.4 GXL, 2" lift, Poly airs in rear, 32" BFG muddies, Lightforce 170's HID's, TJM rack, Awning, Twine on board shower, GME uhf, Dual batteries & monitor, Storage system, ARB fridge, LED rear lighting, Safari snorkel, Brown Davis bash plate, Ironman winch bar, Runva 11xp winch, Roadsafe recovery points, ARB compressor, Tyre dog monitor, AJ's sliders, Hema hn6. The to do list is getting shorter.

          Comment

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