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  • Correct Engine Oil?

    I was just wondering if anyone has asked what oil their local toyota dealer is fitting to the diesel 150 Prado's? The reason I ask is my previous local dealer was fitting a stock 15W40 diesel oil, but the book actualy reads that for most situations it should be a 10W30 SM or SL oil. Try find that on the local Repco shelf for turbo diesel engine!
    2010,Prado 150 D4D GXL manual, ARB deluxe bar, iron man 9500 winch, IPF 900XS converted HID, pirrana duel battery tray and controller, 50mm lift toughdog springs and shocks, GME TX3440 uhf, false floor and ORS fridge slide 60ltr Waeco fridge, kaymar rear bar, with anderson plug, safari snorkel, Mickey Thompson 265/70R/17.

  • #2
    So an update to this, I found I was wrong on the oil spec I quoted above, sorry about that, for ambtemps upto 38C under normal driving the book actually quotes 5W30CF or higher grade. During the break I found I have access to an oil condition monitoring lab through work so asked them what they thought. They seem to think the 15W40 would be to thick on start up and make the engine rattly(which it was) and could cause damage and add to bad fuel economy, the suggestion was to use a 5W40 semi or full synthetic oil as it has the start up qualities needed but also the same viscosity at high temps as the 15w40 oil.
    Anyone got a suggestion, while oil is cheap in comparision and I don't mind changing it I don't want the long term result to be a stuffed engine..
    Magiver70
    Lurker
    Last edited by Magiver70; 01-01-2012, 08:16 AM. Reason: I can't spell......
    2010,Prado 150 D4D GXL manual, ARB deluxe bar, iron man 9500 winch, IPF 900XS converted HID, pirrana duel battery tray and controller, 50mm lift toughdog springs and shocks, GME TX3440 uhf, false floor and ORS fridge slide 60ltr Waeco fridge, kaymar rear bar, with anderson plug, safari snorkel, Mickey Thompson 265/70R/17.

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Roo,
      Thanks for the reply, I agree about getting the oil right as it is cheaper than an engine rebuild for sure.
      I spent a bit of time on the Castrol and Penrite web sites and looked up the spec sheets for the oil you mentioned and also looked up the specs for the oil quoted in the prado hand book and I have put their specs below, it would seem the biggest differance is the start up thickness between the 5w and 15w oil as all of them are within a few points thickness specs at the upper temp range.
      Castrol Magnatec Diesel - KV@ 100C =15.9, KV@40C= 125
      Castrol Edge 5W40 CF/SN- KV@ 100C = 14.0, KV@40C = 83.7
      Penrite Enviro Plus 5W40- KV@100C = 13.4, KV@40C = 81
      2010,Prado 150 D4D GXL manual, ARB deluxe bar, iron man 9500 winch, IPF 900XS converted HID, pirrana duel battery tray and controller, 50mm lift toughdog springs and shocks, GME TX3440 uhf, false floor and ORS fridge slide 60ltr Waeco fridge, kaymar rear bar, with anderson plug, safari snorkel, Mickey Thompson 265/70R/17.

      Comment


      • #4
        Its also VERY important (from what I have been told) that you use an oil that is clearly identified as being for a DIESEL engine because engine oil manufactured for a diesel engine contains a detergent additive that gathers up the sooty diesel by-products an protects the engine from the black soot, whereas "petrol" engine oil does not contain the important detergent additives....just something else to keep in mind.
        SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi Brogers,
          That is right, in the oil specs on label it has to have a CF rating or higher CL, CM as an example to be suitable for diesel and a differant spec again or specifically say it is suitable for use with an exhaust system particulate filter as some oils will block it up from what I can find. That old saying "oils aint oils" is becoming more and more accurate on these modern engines.
          2010,Prado 150 D4D GXL manual, ARB deluxe bar, iron man 9500 winch, IPF 900XS converted HID, pirrana duel battery tray and controller, 50mm lift toughdog springs and shocks, GME TX3440 uhf, false floor and ORS fridge slide 60ltr Waeco fridge, kaymar rear bar, with anderson plug, safari snorkel, Mickey Thompson 265/70R/17.

          Comment


          • #6
            oops,

            I have been lead astray somewhat...and don't want to lead others astray.....so I decided to ring the castrol technical advice line and spoke with a technician called "Demetrious" on the castrol oil advice line 1300 557 998 (mon-fri 8-5 melbourne time) and he was quite simply fantastic, he really knows his oils and I would not begin to confuse anyone again...please just ring him if you are considering what oil to use....frankly, whether or not "DIESEL" is mentioned in the name of the oil is in fact, totally irrelevant (despite what I had been told by others less knowledgable than than an oil technical expert....its all about the code (CF, Ch, CH4 etc) or more specifically the ACEA code..(ACEA B1, B3 or B4) ..but that is likely to confuse as I have overly simplied things....so please don't ever listen to me about oils, just speak to the experts.

            After having discussed the fact that I live in Queensland, (ie the climate) and the toyota oil specification for the diesel Prado...and the fact that I want good viscosity at start up (to minimise engine wear and rattle) and very good viscosity at operating temperatures, and an oil that will maximise engine protection .....it seems that an excellent engine oil for the 150 diesel (and certainly well over specification) is the fully synthetic "Castrol Magnatec Professional 5w-40" (Item code 335 0465). Unfortunately this oil is not supplied in 5 or 10 litre containers... it can be purchased in 20 litre containers (which suits me fine).

            I was told it most definately has a much more than adequate detergent content, and just because it doesn't have the word "diesel" in the name it does not mean that it is not to be used in diesel engines....quite to the contrary in fact, as it is very very suitable to diesel engines.... .but I haven't checked the price yet.....I shudder to think of the price....but lets see.

            "Castrol magnatec diesel 15w-40" is also certainly very very satisfactory and certainly meets/exceeds the toyota specifications, but it is a bit thicker at "start up" temperatures (especially in winter) from what I understand.....anyway, I was told lots lots more of great information from an expert, and please check for yourself....does anyone have any further comments, as I am always learning something and am always open to advice and suggestions....
            brogers
            Advanced Member
            Last edited by brogers; 03-01-2012, 04:50 PM.
            SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

            Comment


            • #7
              ....just found out from Qld Diesel Spares that 20 litres of Castrol Magnatec Professional 5w-40 fully synthetic= $299(incl GST)

              Currently it costs me about $55 for 5 litres of "toyota" diesel oil
              The Castrol Magnatec Professional 5w-40 fully synthetic would cost about $75 for 5 litres......

              I wonder if there is another equivalent fully synthetic oil...I'll have a search of previous posts....I am guessing Nulon and Penrite ....but I don't know this for sure...
              SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

              Comment


              • #8
                So, I know "Roo" and others have posted in some detail on this topic elsewhere...but I am a slow learner, and have been confused somewhat...(as there are many many alternatives within each brand name...so I need some "specific" advice...so after checking, below are some fully synthetic oils with a wide viscosity range that meet (indeed exceede) the toyota specification for the 150 Diesel Prado...


                Nulon Fully Synthetic Long Life Engine oil 5W-40 (Mees and exceeds API CF, and ACEA B4)

                Penrite Fully Synthetic HPR 5 (Meets and exceeds API CF, and ACEA B4) "Ideal for many light duty diesel engines where API CF...is recommended."


                These seem to be available in 5 litre and 10 litre containers and from the listed prices seem to offer better value for money than the fully synthetic Castrol Magnatec Professional 5W-40..

                Anyway, to get the wide viscosity of say 5w-40 the only option it would seem is to use a fully synthetic oil....


                any comments or further advice is welcome?
                brogers
                Advanced Member
                Last edited by brogers; 03-01-2012, 05:27 PM.
                SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hi Brogers,
                  Lots of good info there,
                  I have found the Castrol Edge 5W40 at super cheap for $74.95(about the same as the Magnatec) for 5ltr, or the Penrite HPR5 in a 10ltr bottle for $91.95
                  I found a few other brands at Repco in the same viscosity/spec needed but all about the same price.
                  2010,Prado 150 D4D GXL manual, ARB deluxe bar, iron man 9500 winch, IPF 900XS converted HID, pirrana duel battery tray and controller, 50mm lift toughdog springs and shocks, GME TX3440 uhf, false floor and ORS fridge slide 60ltr Waeco fridge, kaymar rear bar, with anderson plug, safari snorkel, Mickey Thompson 265/70R/17.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hi guys

                    These links seem to evolve around Castrol! ...... I personally use another brand but like the informative info that this sight has provided.

                    I figured that once you have read these links that most of your questions on "Which oil should i use & how often should i change?" should be answered.

                    Intro to engine oils
                    http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

                    Question's and answers! (Start reading from the top of this page first).
                    http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_b...g2.html#return
                    I also like the "do it yourself - Magnetised oil traps" (I have those hard drive magnets all over my fridge from past projects. They "are" strong!).


                    Political side of Oil's
                    http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html

                    Cheers

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I put in Penrite hpr 5 diesel in between servicings and rate it. Mate of mine has a 07 D4d with 100k on it and feeds it hpr 5 every 5k and i reckon it runs smoother than another guys d4d with similar kms who does the usual 10k interval with Toyota oil.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Just a tip if you are using any "Castrol Magnatec" type oils.... These are a fantastic oil to reduce engine wear because as the name suggests these will stick with engine components even when it's not running. But this strength is also the weakness of the oil. You can't fully drain these oils even with suction methods. So You need to flush the engine every 50k to get the best results.

                        All these are an advice that I got from a friend who's a petrolium engineer for QP.
                        [COLOR=#3E3E3E][URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?31747-Shan-s-Silver-TD-Altitude-with-Attitude"]2012 Altitude TD Auto - Silver[/URL] [/COLOR]

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                        • #13
                          I'm not sure if the formulation of Magnatec has changed over the years. I've seen it leave a coat of golden varnish on the inside of engines if left in for the full 15 000km interval in petrol engined toyotas. The stain dosn't come off easily either even after a flush and regular oil changes with other brands of oil.
                          2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I'm with you for sure Roo,
                            Change oil and oil filter at 5,000km intervals and the castrol magnatec 15w 40 is certainly fine, get it on special and save a few dollars perhaps, but its absolutely fine.
                            It has been very interesting just the same, to see the misinformation that exists about oil. Of great interest to me, and where it all began for me, was I asked a simple question when getting the car serviced...."I'll be changing my engine oil in 5,000km what oil do you use"...and the conflicting information has not stopped...even after 12 months....the service manager says they use one brand/spec, the spare parts manager swears its something else, the mechanic says "come and have a look for yourself at the bulk tank suppy we use and its different again, the apprentice, who actually does the job (who I know) says, "no way, its not that oil, we absolutely use such and such"....and still, to this day I have no concrete idea of what the heck they use in the engine of my car, its not specificed on the service report...and I just simply want to know...I'm entitled to know, I pay for it, and I just want to know what they are using.
                            Try it yourselves next time you get a service. Ask around at the delership, just don't belive what the admin person says....you will be surprised...Toyota oil, caltex, castrol, synthetic, semi synthetic, blah blah, they don't even know what they are saying sometimes....and then ask them who actually makes the "toyota" bottled oil and have a chuckle as you get all sorts of answers once again. There is a real opportunity for "oil Substitution"...you pay for such and such, but actually get a much cheaper, inferior oil....be alert please, as the variety of responses I get to what oil has actually been used on my car makes me wonder.
                            I have reported this "confusion" to toyota each time they email me a service survery. Of concern, without this forum and making some enquiries, I could easily have gone into an auto shop and in all ignornace easily have purchased absolutely the wrong oil ( as the manual does not make it crystal clear as to what is best...and the letters and numbers can be confusing...seriously...and you can do who knows what damage.... as the range of oils are vast...and as far as a turbo diesel is concerned (and many other cars also) ...OILS ain't OILs...so use one that is the correct viscosity, a good brand..as advised by Roos ....and change it regularly.

                            BTW, wife got charged (by another manufacturer' s dealer) for windscreen washer additive....and the washer water, which I had just topped up, was still so fresh you could drink it....gee the washer additive is getting so good you can't even tell its there....
                            SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hi Guys,

                              How much oil are you actually putting into the engine (1KD-FTV) when you change the oil? I find that the 5ltr bottles are more convenient to handle and store and would prefer to get one (or two) for each oil change.

                              VXWesty
                              [SIZE=1]2011 Crystal Pearl VX D4D Auto, MT ATZ 4 Rib, Full River 105AH / Redarc SBi12 DBS (TJM Tray), CKMA12 Air Comp, Alpine INA-W910R - PDX-5 - Type-R Speakers, Engel MT60FP, Rhino Alloy Platform, Foxwing Awning, Rear 12V Cig and Engel Socket, ARB Deluxe Combi Bar, Safari Snorkel, LF 240 XGT's + HID Upgrade, HB3 (9005) HID Upgrade, Bilstein / Lovells 2" Lift Suspension, Chip-It, Alpine PKG-RSE2 Roof DVD Monitors, Maxtrax, GME TX3540 + AE409L, Avenger TDS 9.5, ARB UVP, ARB Protection Steps.
                              [/SIZE]

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