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  • Reasonable life expectancy of D4D diesel engine

    Hi all, just wondering what people's thoughts are re engine life. I use my prado 150 for work and with my weekly commute back to Sydney from Bathurst, I am finding that my weekly kms are now nearly 1000. Given that my lease for my vehicle is 4 1/2 years then by the time I have finished using it as my work car, it will have around 200km or more on it.
    So my question to put out there is: Do I trade it before then or do I keep it as our family adventure car after the 4 1/2 years at which point, it will probably be asked to do only about 15,000 kms a year from then on. In other words, should a well-looked after 4 1/2 year old diesel with 200k or so on the clock give us many years of good service from then on? My preference is to keep hold of it for our family use but just concerned about the high kms.

    Interested to hear people's comments.

    Thanks, Roger
    Toyota 150 DVD Silver Pearl, original towbar, Yokohama Geolandar ATS

  • #2
    I would have thought any Diesel that's got that many kms on it from mainly H'way commute would actually good for it, instead of the normal stop/go; long/short type of driving....

    In the past (not with these latest modern Diesels though) when I've gone to buy a 2nd hand Diesel, if I found out that the type of driving the car had done was mainly all H'way & it had a good Service history on it, then that would not scare me away from buying it as I know it's more likely to perform better than some other ones w/o as many kms on it.....as long as the service history can be proven though

    I would like to think that today's modern day diesels can hopefully still achieve or at least "come close" to the older diesels of the past..... not sure I believe that they can, or willing to take the risk with the huge associated repair costs..... but I guess time will tell......


    others may be able to give u some better info.......
    [I]cheers..... Rob (macca)[/I]
    [I][B][COLOR=DarkRed]Car-4: 1996 Defender Tdi [/COLOR][/B][/I]
    [I][B][COLOR=Blue]Car-3: 1996 Discovery Tdi Auto[/COLOR][/B][/I]
    [B][I][COLOR=Green]Car-2: 1993 Suzuki Vitara 4Dr (modified for Playing) [/COLOR][COLOR=#ff0000]Now Retired[/COLOR][COLOR=Green] [/COLOR][/I][/B]
    [B][I][COLOR=DarkOrchid]Car-1: 2010 Toyota Prado 150's (Missus Car/current touring vehicle)[/COLOR][/I][/B]

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Roo. Can I ask you a couple of questions based on your comments
      1. When I bought the prado, I did so knowing I wanted a car that we could do adventure trips with and that would also be required to do about 4 years worth of 50,000 first. My understanding is that diesel engines should easily have a 500,000km lifespan. Is this maybe not the case with the 1KD-FTV?
      2. You mention a 'every 5000km' service. By that do you mean an oil change in the middle of the 10,000km service interval. I had contemplated doing this and was planning to do an oil-only change to make it a little easier for me. Do you think this is sufficient without the need for a filter change at the 5000km mid-service interval?
      3. I've been reading a lot about oils recently on this site. It seems that many Toyotal dealers re-label other people's oil. My own local toyota dealer where I get it serviced in Sydney re-labels Caltex and I guess it is the Delo 400 which is what I was going to use. Would this be your recommendation?
      4. Re fuel, I didn't realise there was a difference until recently between diesels when someone warned me against buying cheap diesel which I see at some of the independents and budget places in Sydney. Therefore I decided to go with either Vortex diesel or Shell diesel as you can get it a bit cheaper with these Woolies and Coles dockets. The Vortex reads well on the site. Is there any reason you are going for the BP brand and do you think there is a problem with Caltex or Shell?
      5. Finally, on a completely different topic as I learn how to use this site, are there any instructions. I look in the search box sometimes for things I have read before and I can't find the thing!

      And lastly, I am guessing you are in the mechanic or vehicle business. I often get to Brissie ( I'm up there tomorrow - Monday 15th) where abouts are you based? I would like to drop in if I am nearby.

      Cheers
      Roger
      Toyota 150 DVD Silver Pearl, original towbar, Yokohama Geolandar ATS

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks, will do roo. I will also check my service book as I can't remember if they routinely do a fuel filter change every 10,000? If its not on every service, I guess you are advising me to get them to add that in.
        Look forward to catching up north of the border sometime.
        Cheers
        Roger
        Toyota 150 DVD Silver Pearl, original towbar, Yokohama Geolandar ATS

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi Marrer,

          Just to add my 2 cents worth....I also want to keep my car for many years if possible.

          Personally, I would advise change the engine oil and the oil filter at 5,000km. I do this myself, on the recommendation of a good mechanic, and many on this forum also do the same. Currently I purchase the 5 litre "toyota" oil containers, genuine oil filters and sump washers from the dealer, just so i have a reciept as proof of purchase should there be any warranty issues in the future, but I know that toyota don't make oil, but be very, very careful about what oil you get, and double check it with a qualified toyota diesel mechanci before you use it, because there is in fact quite a lot of conflicting advice about oils out there.

          The easiest bit to do is change the oil filter, its located upside down on the left hand (passanger) side of the engine block, and you get to it from above ie from the engine bay. You can get a toyota oil filter wrench (about $25 from memory) and it fits on the filter like a huge socket, and you use a socket wrench with an extension bar and its dead set easy to change. The sump plug is located behind an inspection plate (2 bolts). If you change the oil, I would also go the next, relatively easy step, and change the oil filter as well.


          Also, get a dozen or so sump plug washers (replace the washer each time you change the oil to be sure the sump plug doesn't leak) and keep the extra washers in the glove box.

          Also, in the manual (i can't remember the page, but its definately in there) it recommends that you idle the engine to allow it to cool after driving. I also commute to work, and I try wherever possible to allow a minute or so to cool the engine/turbo etc by either driving slowly for a few blocks before home, or at idle for a minute or two before shut down. Some have said on this forum that you don't need to let it idle to cool down, but it is very clear in the manual, especially after a highway or towing etc. I have not bothered with a turbo timer given the relatively complex electronic ignition/keyless push button setup etc, just drive carefully before shutdown or let it idle for a minute or two...I am sure it will prolong the life of the engine/turbo....but thats just my opinion, I'm not a mechanic, but have quite a few good friends who are, and they have advised change the oil, oil filter, let engine cool down (even just a litle bit as the turbo glows red hot immediately after driving and it burns the oil if you shut it down immediately)..use genuine parts while the car is under warranty, and get all log book services donw at 10,000km , and be sure to ask for any parts that are changed at the service to be placed in a plastic bag and left in the car (else the parts may be "overlooked" by the apprentice.....as has happened with previous cars I have had).....anyway, just some of my personal thoughts/suggestions, I am sure you will do what you think is best

          BTW Roo, can I ask what sort of castrol oil are you using now?

          Are you using Castrol Diesel GTX 15w 40 ?
          SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks Brogers. I am intrigued as to why you get the mechanic to leave any changed parts in a plastic bag in the car?? Why do you do that?
            On a slightly different note, I recall some people on this site saying that the service blokes at some places just don't bother rotating the tyres when they should. I will start to mark mine with something to test that out. There seem to be a lot of shonky dealers out there.
            Cheers
            Roger
            Toyota 150 DVD Silver Pearl, original towbar, Yokohama Geolandar ATS

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Roger, I also like to see the parts they have supposed to have replaced when I have had bigger jobs done (do what I can myself) by mechanics. Generally there are only 4 people who I like to do any mechanical work on my car, first one is me, the other is my mate who worked for toyota for 20 + years, the other 2 are mechanics in there own workshops, one is at St Marys the other at 7Hills Jason is brilliant. I refused to take it to Toyota unless it was a warranty issue. You dont have to take it to a dealer to keep warranty going BUT for a lot of extended (6 years) warrantys like toyota they need to be serviced by them from day one. If I had a late model high teck diesel then possibly a different story due to cost of just parts alone. I also worked for toyota back in late 80's early 90's. I use to fit aircons then become PD Manager, I wont say the stealership as they have changed their ways (I hope) but I can tell you the floor shop controller (as they were called back then) use to say to us, if its dirty change the fluids if its a shopping trolley then just do the engine oil some times filter some times not. Now when I refer to fluids Im talking diff oils, transfer case, wheel bearing repacks, proper radiator flush eg block and all not just dump the radiator and refill. I use to shake my head and think how do they get away with it ?? We would use all different brands of oil, depends on what was cheapest so they obviously had accounts with more then one supplier, some times was caltex sometimes mobil back then. Now I must admit I had some warranty work done on the 120 I have now and must admitt Penrith Toyota were extremely good, As far as turbo cool down I totally agree with how Brogers is treating his in regards to cooling the turbo down, I use to do the exact same thing in my 95 T/D Grande (stilll blew head but noting to do with turbo, common issue 1KZ not D4D) The problem I see these days no one seems to double check what they have done, oil caps left off, filters left loose, too much air in tyres (Have seen 60/70psi) too busy talking or texting. When I had my 2.8D hilux I did oil and filter every 4 to 5k max, sold it with 300 thou on it and never spent a cent on major repairs to the engine and still going strong today with nearly 400 on it, the prado diesel I didnt have that long but changed the oil and filter every 5 without fail, still blew the head BUT he said the top of the engine,inside etc was like new so pays in one way. The 120 petrol I have now I do the oil & filter every 10k but still nice and clean when I dump it. Like every car or 4wd I have owned I dump the oil when I get home at night as the oil is nice and hot, then I let it drain over night, normally 8 to 10 hours before i refill. You will be suprised how much extra you get out then just letting it drain for 10 mins. I wouldnt let your oil and filter changes go over 5 if you intend hanging onto it for a long time, pays off in the end I reckon (personal opinion). You can only try your hardest at keeping every thing micky mouse in how you keep it serviced and clean, if any thing else happens at least you know it wasnt from neglect. You can still have injector issues, engine mount issues etc .............Cheers steve
              Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi all, thanks for your advice everyone. Couple of quick questions for Steve and Roo, ( sorry I haven't worked out how people do these quotes)
                Steve - who are your guys at 7 Hills if you don't mind. Even though I live in Bathurst at the weekends, I am based in Epping during the week which is quite close to them. Also you and Roo both comment about keeping the engine 'clean'. At first I thought you must be referring to inside, ie the importance of changing the oil every 5k which I get, but are you talking about literally physcially clean. Seems a bit of a basic question, sorry, but just want to check.
                Finally, the cooling down of the turbo - I do this if I have just had a long trip on the highway as per the manual and I sit there for a couple of minutes but I don't do this if it is 30 mins in Sydney's dreadfully slow traffic. Do you do this cool down all the time, no matter what the driving conditions?
                Re oil ( and before the prado, I assumed you just got the right grade of oil and the manufacturer was irrelevant), Brogers comments suggested get the 'toyota' oil; when I phoned Mossman Toyota, the service manager there said that they use Caltex and I could buy that without affecting warranty, other toyotas use whatever they can get their hands on, I think I'm going to end up paranoid about the stuff. Is the concensus to go with Toyota oil or is the Caltex Delo OK.
                Can I add one final "by the way" - I had the vibration others have talked about that Toyo eventually fixed. The one thing I do still have at about 1800 RPM sometimes is an almost buzzing metallic noise seemingly from the right hand of the engine bay. It sounds like a loose screw or something like that. Toyota haven't heard it and I don't know if its a drama as I tend to hear it more when the engine is cold. Any thoughts. Sorry for so many final questions right before Christmas!
                Toyota 150 DVD Silver Pearl, original towbar, Yokohama Geolandar ATS

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Marrer View Post
                  Thanks Brogers. I am intrigued as to why you get the mechanic to leave any changed parts in a plastic bag in the car?? Why do you do that?
                  On a slightly different note, I recall some people on this site saying that the service blokes at some places just don't bother rotating the tyres when they should. I will start to mark mine with something to test that out. There seem to be a lot of shonky dealers out there.
                  Cheers
                  Roger
                  Hi "marrer",

                  I get most parts that are removed during service or repair, such as fuel transfer filter, air filter, belts etc, but in a bag for me to inspect because then I know for sure (almost) it has been changed. I don't bother about the engine oil filter because I mark it, and its easy to see that it has in fact been changed. Also, and injector cleaner that is put in the tank I ask that they supply the fluid, and I personally put it in the tank etc. It just that I have paid for parts to be changed previousy (not with my current dealer) only to discover that the parts had not , in fact, been changed, with the excuse "sorry sir, but the apprentice must have forgotten it". Honestly, its not being paranoid, I guess margins are tight, service centres are very busy, and if you wish to keep your car as long as possible, you want to be sure that all services, fluids and filters are in fact changed and are correct the first time, every time,

                  Thanks also Mr Roo, I will certainly try the magnatec diesel engine oil, I appreciate you advice and comments.

                  merry christmas to all.
                  SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    http://www.totalcare4wd.com.au/home.php His name is Jason, he is an absolute whiz when it comes to 4wd's. Even my wifes boss owns a new 200 he has it serviced by Jason as his pricess are good but you know he will do the job you ask. I had an annoying hub leak on my old lux years ago, toyota couldnt fix it, another mechanic looked and tryed to stop the leak, didnt know of the bloke at St Marys at the time and I was put onto Jason, he fixed in a couple of hours, price was what I thought extremely cheap and it never leaked again, but is attitude and they way he spoke to people and explained the problem or what ever the issue was instead of the bullshit you get from dealers............Cheers Steve
                    Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hey Mr Roo,

                      You mention, "Also the air filter is cleaned and serviced". Does this mean the Toyota air filter is washable or is it just blown out with a compressor ?

                      Thanks
                      Dave
                      [B]Dave[/B] - 2010 Silver GXL Prado 150 TD Manual.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Not sure on current air filters but the ones I had in my 95 prados both petrol 97 grande and 01 grande diesel were genuine toyota filters and were washable. Generally its a case of blow the dust out using compressed air then wash and let dry then put back in. The only thing I found is the paper fibres seem to go a bit hairy so to speak, fluff up a bit, not sure if this is good or not so I stopped washing them and just replaced when due, or if extremely dusty just blew it out with compressed air using one of those trigger guns. I have no idea if the one in my petrol 120 is washable or not but this time Im just going to replace wth genuine new one when due. Have done any off road in this one YET so not sure how dirty it will get compared to the 95's which had huge filters and filtered extremely well, never any dust on the inlet side of the filter............Cheers Steve
                        Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I just had my 80K service last week, was told it was needed overnight to check the valve clearance with a cold engine. Great, sounded like they were going to measure it properly.
                          Had the service done, asked to keep the old fuel filter that was replaced, which they happily left in the vehicle. It wasn't until a day or two after picking up the rig that I noticed a slight oil leak. Took it back to toyota who found that the valve gasket needed replacement and was the cause of the slight oil leak from when they checked the valve clearances the week before. I guess the upside to this was I know they did exactly what was required for the service, and their service delivery manager bent over backwards for me including giving me a free loan car whilst they replace the gasket, and clean up the block for me
                          [b]Silver 2008 D4D Auto GXL[/b]
                          [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6032]My build up[/url]

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hey Roo, so you'd recommend a snorkel even for general driving on a 150?
                            2010 150 Glacier White GXL D4D Auto

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I dont think you need one for every day driving around town as really how much dust do you encounter driving around Sydney ?? And really you dont have any effect as far as the air ramming down the system till about 80k+ so I dont think as far as economy or having a cleaner air filter or performance wise will make any difference. If you were driving country areas or outside of sydney then it would possibly pay to have one may give you better economy, if driving dusty dirt roads all the time then yes Id have one without fail, if intending to do some touring then Id also have one wether it was petrol or diesel. I am getting one on the 120 V6, one reason will be for touring but the main one is with the soverign (spelling) toyota alloy bar, the way they cut the inner plastic guard acts like a scoop and if going through even mild depth water they scoop the water up and drive it straight into the air intake so mainly doing mine for engine safety. Mate works for NRMA as an assesor and he had one in last week for the exact reason I desrcibed but only an issue with the 120 with factory alloy bar I believe....Cheers Steve
                              Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet

                              Comment

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