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  • New MAF sensor instalation

    Took the old girl (2003 prado v6) to the auto electrician and was advised the MAF Sensor was shot and wasn’t working at all, the car runs better without it.
    so after a $275 bill from Toyota ill have a new one tomorrow,
    Now I know how to remove and refit ( pretty standard) but do you need to do any calibration ? or tweeks ?
    Im pretty sure its a straight plug in screw down plug electrical cable in and im set but I thought Id ask.

    Thanks,
    Dean

  • #2
    cheers mate I thought it would be a standard install but thats why I love this place lol allways has someone thats been there and done that lol hopefully this will be the last thing I have to buy lol

    Comment


    • #3
      Put it in today and whoa what a difference the engine is running smoothly and I have acceleration weve never felt before.
      It idles preety damm nicely.

      Comment


      • #4
        Are there any obvious indications (apart from less than desirable fuel efficiency) that the MAF sensor is shot? I have removed, cleaned and refitted mine but have not noticed much of a difference?
        2003 120 GXL, 4.0V6, Snorkel, Sovereign Bar, Dual Batteries, Bilstein/Lovells 50mm Lift, PolyAir Bags, MickeyT MTZ 265/70/R17.

        Comment


        • #5
          We had an engine kick when idling and massive acceleration issues , also when driving down the road to open her up it would be more of a put foot down and then after a pause it would kick in .
          Also when I held the old sensor up to light I couldn’t see thru the glass sensor it it was far to dark with the new one you can see thru it.
          In all honesty its like its just been fine tuned to perfection it idles great and the car feels a tonn smoother and we can now accelerate of the mark and not have a ohh sh*t there’s a truck coming our way lol.
          best $275 ive spent in a long time.

          Comment


          • #6
            Hey dean96 (or anyone else for that matter...), do you know if the diesel has one of those MAF sensors and if so would it have a similar effect on the 1kzte motor - as in poor fuel economy and lack of power? Cheers Paul

            Comment


            • #7
              http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...96b43f802c5570

              Includes instructions for testing the MAF sensor on a 1grfe 4.0v6
              2003 120 GXL, 4.0V6, Snorkel, Sovereign Bar, Dual Batteries, Bilstein/Lovells 50mm Lift, PolyAir Bags, MickeyT MTZ 265/70/R17.

              Comment


              • #8
                Nice diagram etc but doesn't anwer the ? about the DIESEL bit... as far as I can tell the engines listed there are all petrol...aren't they?! But thanks! Anyone else...? Ta.

                Comment


                • #9
                  All engines these days have a MAF.

                  The MAF measures the temperature, and volume of air entering the motor,
                  the ECU uses this info with other sensor inputs to work out how much
                  fuel is required to be injected into the motor. If the MAF fails the engine will
                  revert to look up tables as a fail safe. It will still run but not as effeciently as
                  it will with the MAF.

                  I't would seem from above, as no one has indicated they had a engine management
                  light up, that when the MAF failed they did not get a warning light?

                  Cheers
                  LeighW
                  HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks Leigh, that answers my question as to whether I have one...so ya reckon that unless I get a warning light it would be working ok? or could it become dirty and therefore ineffectual without a warning light? And do you know where it is on the 1kz te? Thanks, much appreciated. Paul.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Did you try cleaning the sensor with contact cleaner? Crud build up affects the temperature reading and how fast the sensor responds to temperature changes.
                      2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hi Paul,

                        Not sure where it is on a 1KZ but on most cars it is usually located in the ducting
                        between the air cleaner and the inlet manifold. Check out the duct and you will most
                        likely find a connector located mid way, that will be the MAF.

                        If you don't have a engine tell tail up the MAF should be working ok, some feel they can suffer
                        from contamination as discussed above which can effect their operation. It would have
                        to be very dirty though. In hot wire MAF as used on the prado, the MAF does a self clean and calibration
                        each time you start the motor to counteract any dirt / carbon build up.

                        Oil build up (causes carbon build up when self cleaning) can also cause be issue which is why some argue
                        K&N type filters should not be used on hot wire MAF.

                        Honestly though I have never noticed any improvement in performance of a vehicle by
                        cleaning the MAF, the self clean seems to work well. Still not going to hurt to give it
                        a squirt of cleaner when you change the filter.

                        Cheers
                        LeighW
                        HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Ok, thanks LeighW and gxl_d4d, for the info. I bought this thing (1kz diesel 04) a while back and it's great...but I only am getting 1100ish km per tank (180lt), so I'm just working through what it could be. It does have a lot of gear on it - ARB winch bar and winch, rear dual Kaymar, roof rack, 2" lift, draws in back etc, so... we'll get there, but until I do, you will notice these questions of mine popping up now and then. Thanks again, Paul. (By the way, what does it mean 'in hot wire'? Is it when the power is on or something...?)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hot wire refers to the type of MAF sensor being used, in some vehicles for example they use a vane system whereby the air flowing past the sensor pushes the vane, this movement is translated into how much air is flowing into the motor.

                            A hot wire sensor is just as its described, the sensor consists of two wires that are heated buy an electric current flowing through them. One wire is placed in the air stream flowing into the motor. The other is shielded from the air flow into the motor but exposed to the ambient. The air flow into the motor cools the wire that is exposed to it the amount of cooling is dependent on the flow rate, the air density (altitude) and temperature. The cooling of this wire is compared to the temperature of the other wire in free air and the difference is used to determine how much fuel is required to be injected into the motor.

                            The ECU takes the this result together with, together with torgue request signal from driver (accellerator), engine load, RPM etc and uses this info to look a data table that tells it how much fuel
                            to inject. This is called open loop and determines a ball park figure for the amount of fuel required, this system is used whenever the load is changing on the motor, ie speeding up slowing down starting etc.

                            Once the car is running at a steady speed ie highway driving the ECU then goes into closed loop mode. It uses the basic fuel calculation above for a rough figure of fuel required, it then varies the amount of fuel and whilst measuring the actual airfuel ratio being acheived via a sensor in the exhaust system and works out the leanest fuel amount required to maintain the required engine power. This is the engines
                            most economical setting.

                            When you start the engine the ECU applies a large current to the sensor wires to burn of any contamination, this generally keeps the wires clean but over time deposists could build up.

                            In your case I would be inclined to have your vehicle weighed, sounds like your carry around a bit of extra weight and your fuel comsumption might not be that bad, not sure what sort of consumption you'll get from the 1kz.

                            In my D4D, with dual batts, alloy bar, winch, draws, roof basket etc I get about 9.5 ~ 10 litres a 100k cruising.

                            Cheers
                            LeighW
                            LeighW
                            Avid PP Poster!
                            Last edited by LeighW; 29-11-2011, 06:10 PM.
                            HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Whoa! Ok, thanks for the info The Roo and LeighW (you know stuff!) I appreciate it. I have just changed the injectors (which didn't make a great deal of diff) and I just did the air, oil and fuel filter today when I changed the oil...actually, last time I did the oil I just gave the air filter a dust off but I did notice that it had an extra flat (5mm) sheet of ... not sure really... some sort of extra filter (hairy lookin stuff) on the underside of the filter compared with the new one, not sure if that was stuck on there by the previous owner for extra protection or whether it was a diff brand? Maybe that was restricting the airflow somewhat?... But it doesn't blow smoke at all. When I had the injectors out I wanted to give it a compression test but didn't have access to a tester. (Are there any tell tale signs of compression imbalance/drop?) Anyway, yes in the end it may come back to weight, and I did just think of getting the GVM to see - good idea. And hopefully I'll get a chance to look at the MAF thingos tomorrow and I'll let ya know if I get any where. I've also posted on a thread about the dump pipe which I'm thinking of replacing to see if this will help ...? Who knows...? Thanks again.

                              Comment

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