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  • Car Fridge/Dual Battery

    Hi guys,

    I'm in the process of acquiring an ARB 47L fridge and am now, as a result, looking at putting in a second battery.

    I'm probably the least electrical minded person on this forum and was hoping I could get some input.

    First question is the Prado 120 series cracking guard problem. I want to put the battery behind the drivers side head light (as passenger side firewall has my compressor there) but have heard that there are a few problems with the guards cracking. I have a 2007 D4D GXL. Is the guards cracking caused by a crap bracket being used or is it just a foregone conclusion that it's going to happen full stop?

    Second question... Which battery? I've tried reading squillions of pages on batteries, but am yet to work out what all the ratings mean. I got as close as finding out that the Optima Yellow top has 60AH, which I would assume could power a fridge drawing .87AH for around 70 hours. Is that how it works? (I'm using averages here, I know a fridge could draw more/less depending on conditions etc.)

    Another question is rewiring the 12v socket at the back of the prado... is this something that is a must or is the existing wiring good enough? I'm not going to be using the fridge 24/7, it'll mostly be for the odd weekend camping away and maybe some longer week long trips 2-3 times a year.

    Last but not least, ARB recommended the SBI12 isolator. Is this any good? Does it have some sort of a display showing you both batteries charge and a way to crank off your secondary battery if need be?

    I know it's alot of questions and some may have been covered before, but the new pradopoint update back in March has left this forum very hard to search.

    Cheers,
    Loz
    Loz - 2007 GXL D4D Auto White
    ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, 2" OME Lift, ARB On-Board Air, Safari Snorkel, GME TX3440 UHF, GME AE4018K1 antenna, Redarc/Exide ED5 dual battery system, ARB 47L fridge, Cooper AT3's 265/70/17, LeighW's voltage booster, Lightforce 240XGT's, Outback Solutions Drawer Systems
    [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?20863-Loz-s-120-GXL-D4D-Prado&highlight=loz%27s]My Rig Build-Up[/url]

  • #2
    The ARB tray is on the firewall, the Pirahna tray is behind the headlight. Haven't heard of cracking for a long while.

    I use one of these batteries, I have found it charges well in the D4D
    http://www.supercharge.com.au/produc...il.php?seq=104

    I would run a dedicated socket for the fridge using 6mm wire

    ARB or Redarc kits are both ok

    As you have a D4D I would also invest in one of Leigh's boosters
    [url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]

    Comment


    • #3
      The existing rear socket can be used with a new supply connected to the back of it, if you don't fancy drilling extra holes. But as D4D says, best run a new supply to it. Just ensure that you adequately rate your fuse protection for the new cable running to the rear.
      2014 D4D 150 GXL Automatic - CHARCOAL

      Comment


      • #4
        What's involved in rewiring it? Is it a fairly simple job or do you have to strip the car apart to do so? ARB quoted $125 to rewire it (wires + labour). Let them do it or save the dosh and do it myself?

        I wired my own compressor a couple of months ago and it was worth saving the $180 of install ARB wanted. Is rewiring that socket harder?
        Loz - 2007 GXL D4D Auto White
        ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, 2" OME Lift, ARB On-Board Air, Safari Snorkel, GME TX3440 UHF, GME AE4018K1 antenna, Redarc/Exide ED5 dual battery system, ARB 47L fridge, Cooper AT3's 265/70/17, LeighW's voltage booster, Lightforce 240XGT's, Outback Solutions Drawer Systems
        [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?20863-Loz-s-120-GXL-D4D-Prado&highlight=loz%27s]My Rig Build-Up[/url]

        Comment


        • #5
          Given the way the door opens I have the fridge on the LHS, means you can get into the fridge without opening the door fully. Therefore you need to wire a socket on the LHS. It is dead easy to get down the LHS and through the firewall.
          [url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]

          Comment


          • #6
            Either side is good.If you pop the door sills..? not sure if that is the right word, but the pieces of plastic that fit over the carpet and under the door when it's closed you'll find a veritable highway to run any number of cables from the engine bay to the rear. Cheers Grizz!

            Comment


            • #7
              Loz,
              Not that electrically minded either so right there with you but didnt find it that hard. Just wired up Waeco 50 ltr to 2nd battery, only used 4mm dual core wire direct to battery but was assured it was OK and only have minimial power loss from battery, also running 10amp fuse on positive. Getting wire through firewall via LHS simple and as said under door sills, under plastics at wheel well and mounted socket above jack compartment.

              Am running a second cranking battery at present as am running winch off same battery plus can also be used to start car via Red Arc management system, will be investigating another battery (perhaps Trojan) to give longer uncharged use, just ran for last 4 days no issues driving and camping, weather cool though! Not sure about cracking, 2nd battery set up in car already.

              Jason
              2005 GXL, TJM Bar, 2" Tough Dogs, Narva Spots, GME UHF Radio, Warn Winch, BFG AT's, Dual Battery, Red Arc BMS, Safari Snorkel, ARB air, Piranna Breathers, Rhino RR, Waeco 50lt, XTM recovery, Open Sky Awning - towing a Customerline Camper Trailer!

              Comment


              • #8
                Ok,

                I've decided that I'm going to wire up the lot by myself. Drawing confidence from my perfect compressor install and info found here on the internet. Also a friend has volounteered to watch me with a beer in his hand and a fire extiguisher in the other in case things go pear shaped

                So far on the shopping list:
                SBI12 = $88 eBay
                Pirahna Tray = $169 eBay
                Battery = $200 (brand tba, suggestions welcome)
                2 x 60A fuses = $20
                1 x 20A fuse = $10
                2m of 8mm2 wire = $20
                4m of 6mm2 wire = $40
                Cable Lugs = $5

                I've got all the tools and other bits and pieces. Might buy an el cheapo voltmeter for a once off use.

                Below is my wiring diagram. Can anyone fault it? Please do tell me before I go through with this



                I'm going to leave the spotties running from main battery and only going to move compressor to aux battery to remove a bit of main battery clutter.

                Awaiting comments!
                Loz - 2007 GXL D4D Auto White
                ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, 2" OME Lift, ARB On-Board Air, Safari Snorkel, GME TX3440 UHF, GME AE4018K1 antenna, Redarc/Exide ED5 dual battery system, ARB 47L fridge, Cooper AT3's 265/70/17, LeighW's voltage booster, Lightforce 240XGT's, Outback Solutions Drawer Systems
                [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?20863-Loz-s-120-GXL-D4D-Prado&highlight=loz%27s]My Rig Build-Up[/url]

                Comment


                • #9
                  Use the same sized wires for the neutral as you do for the positive.

                  Suggest not using body earths in your system, if you run the active all the way aft, then you should do the same for the neutral 6mm sq. with the 20 amp fuse is fine, but if its only running the fridge, you'd be better off with a 10 amp fuse - even though that means the cables are over rated.

                  Thinking that the 8mm sq between the batteries is not enough.

                  6B&S is 13mm sq. and that would be a minimum charging circuit size i think. rated at 140A total - use 100A fuses.

                  Personally, i used 3B&S.
                  Matty80
                  Avid PP Poster!
                  Last edited by Matty80; 10-10-2011, 10:33 PM.
                  2014 D4D 150 GXL Automatic - CHARCOAL

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey Matty,

                    I was being lazy using paint... negative will be same size as positive in socket wire up...

                    That wire size i got off the Redarc website:

                    http://redarc.com.au/products-and-se...mart-start-sbi

                    then go on pdf download down the bottom. It says to use heavier wire and fuse if you have the over ride (which i won't have)

                    What do you reckon the 12v wire should go down to then? 4mm?
                    Loz - 2007 GXL D4D Auto White
                    ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, 2" OME Lift, ARB On-Board Air, Safari Snorkel, GME TX3440 UHF, GME AE4018K1 antenna, Redarc/Exide ED5 dual battery system, ARB 47L fridge, Cooper AT3's 265/70/17, LeighW's voltage booster, Lightforce 240XGT's, Outback Solutions Drawer Systems
                    [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?20863-Loz-s-120-GXL-D4D-Prado&highlight=loz%27s]My Rig Build-Up[/url]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Its a decent run, double length (for pos and neg - there and back) leave it at the 6mm sq. which covers any voltage drop, just fuse it smaller.
                      If your not connecting the override, to use as a starting battery then the smaller wire would be passable.
                      2014 D4D 150 GXL Automatic - CHARCOAL

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Nah, it won't be double wire there and back... I'll run the positive all the way to the back, and the negative I'll find somewhere to earth it at the back somewhere... I'll see where the existing earth is and see if I can stick it there too.

                        I'll leave it as 6mm and fuse it at 10amp... What's the max current draw of a 12v fridge? 5amp?
                        Lorenzo
                        Senior Member
                        Last edited by Lorenzo; 10-10-2011, 10:50 PM. Reason: reworded the post
                        Loz - 2007 GXL D4D Auto White
                        ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, 2" OME Lift, ARB On-Board Air, Safari Snorkel, GME TX3440 UHF, GME AE4018K1 antenna, Redarc/Exide ED5 dual battery system, ARB 47L fridge, Cooper AT3's 265/70/17, LeighW's voltage booster, Lightforce 240XGT's, Outback Solutions Drawer Systems
                        [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?20863-Loz-s-120-GXL-D4D-Prado&highlight=loz%27s]My Rig Build-Up[/url]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Lorenzo View Post
                          Nah, it won't be double wire there and back... I'll run the positive all the way to the back, and the negative I'll find somewhere to earth it at the back somewhere... I'll see where the existing earth is and see if I can stick it there too.
                          I don't agree, but it will work.

                          Originally posted by Lorenzo View Post
                          I'll leave it as 6mm and fuse it at 10amp... What's the max current draw of a 12v fridge? 5amp?
                          Depends on a few things, like size of compressor and type, model, so couldn't say for sure. But 10A is well covered for fridge requirements.
                          2014 D4D 150 GXL Automatic - CHARCOAL

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Matty & Loz View Post
                            I don't agree, but it will work.
                            Why not?

                            Originally posted by Matty & Loz View Post
                            Depends on a few things, like size of compressor and type, model, so couldn't say for sure. But 10A is well covered for fridge requirements.
                            It's an ARB CKMA12. At present it's hard wired to the battery with no fuse. But I need to get onto that sooner rather than later!
                            Loz - 2007 GXL D4D Auto White
                            ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, 2" OME Lift, ARB On-Board Air, Safari Snorkel, GME TX3440 UHF, GME AE4018K1 antenna, Redarc/Exide ED5 dual battery system, ARB 47L fridge, Cooper AT3's 265/70/17, LeighW's voltage booster, Lightforce 240XGT's, Outback Solutions Drawer Systems
                            [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?20863-Loz-s-120-GXL-D4D-Prado&highlight=loz%27s]My Rig Build-Up[/url]

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Lorenzo View Post
                              Why not?
                              It's best practice is to run both positive and negative for power supply circuits, and not use body earths.

                              Originally posted by Lorenzo View Post
                              It's an ARB CKMA12. At present it's hard wired to the battery with no fuse. But I need to get onto that sooner rather than later!
                              I can't remember what my ARB compressor has, but i think its in the range of 35A.

                              Someone else would have to confirm?
                              2014 D4D 150 GXL Automatic - CHARCOAL

                              Comment

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