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  • dual battery choice???

    hey guys, been doing some reading and need some help making the final choice please. which of these sets would be best in your expert opinions please, and it will be running an exide extreme deep cycle 100ah 660cca.

    running a 80l fridge and 600w invertor atm.

    (have chosen a full kit because its just not easy finding reasonable parts here in mt isa for reasonable cost.)

    Cheers

    option 1:
    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....:X:RTQ:AU:1123

    option 2:
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MATSON-14...item43a7acf35f

    OR

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MATSON-14...item415725da7b

    Cheers for looking

  • #2
    I would personally go with the package which inlcudes the redarc isolator - it is a reasonable package price and redarc is a good reliable product. (you can pick the up isolator on Ebay for $95 delivered but as you outlined location / product and competitive price means alot)

    Comment


    • #3
      This will be my choice when funds permt...

      http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REDARC-DU...item19c63e2fa1

      Its more expensive but has a pass through current of 200Amps the SBi12 is only 100Amps
      Tazdevil
      Moderated member
      Last edited by Tazdevil; 18-06-2011, 09:00 PM. Reason: Fixed the link..

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi mcfisherclan, can you supply a bit more info about your intended set up, like planned location of your second battery, where is the inverter to be located and I take it your fridge will be in the rear cargo area.

        he Redarc is repairable the Matson are seal and this means they are throw-away once the warraty runs out and they play up.

        The cable in the first link is stated to be 100 amp, this can mean anything and is usually 8B&S which is NOT 100 amp cable when used in a dual battery set up, in a DBS, 8B&S is rated at just 65 amps but there are are number of snake oil pedlars selling it as 100 amp cable, so you need to get exact cable size sorted and it needs to be sized by type, EG. 8B&S or 6B&S and not by some amp rating.

        Note if it is 6B&S then it is 100 amp rated for DBS use.

        Comment


        • #5
          the battery will be located in the spot designed for it in the front drivers side. the fridge will indeed be in the rear area and the inverter will also be located somewhere in the rear. but open to suggestions. the redarc kit comes with 6B&S.

          i dont plan to crank from the 2nd battery if i can avoid it (kinda the point of getting a dual battery to run the fridge i thought.) so unsure we need the BIGGER 1 as it is know on that link? is this right?

          i hope to run another socket in the rear from the new system. as i have heard the wiring for the standard one included the actual socket, is not up to scratch, is this right? have a electrician mate that will be helping with the install, though hes not an auto leccy. should hopefully be able to get a socket and some!!! wire locally, but that may be a bit exxy.

          thanks for looking and helping out. its all a little too much at the moment, and its starting to rack up the $$$$$. bring on tax return.

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi mcfisherclan, how are you planning to power the inverter.

            Your 600w inverter, even if only run at about half it’s capacity, will draw around 25 amps and this is a battery killing current rate if you plan to use the inverter for any length of time.

            To power the inverter properly you need to run 6B&S TWIN cable from your auxiliary battery to a connection point in the rear and you will need something like a 50 amp auto resetting circuit breaker at the auxiliary battery end of the 6B&S twin.

            If you are going to make the inverter removable, you will need 50 amp Anderson plugs to connect the inverter to the 6B&S twin cable.

            Once you have the 6B&S twin to the rear, you can then junction off this with 6mm AUTO twin and fit other small current power sockets for your fridge.

            BTW, you will probably find your ELECTRICIAN mate will do a better job than most auto electricians do.

            Comment


            • #7
              Well the inverter is out for the moment. So battery choice to get the fridge up and going is priority: PLEASE HELP

              Option 1:
              http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....WNASIF:AU:1123 - $230

              Option 2:
              http://www.centurybatteries.com.au/s...tteries/ID-301 - new tech 100Ah and crank, $215 (due to extorsion from supercheap locally. Can be had for as little as $133 retail price )

              Option 3:
              Exide 95Ah Calcium deep cycle $240 locally. Cant remember model number right now.

              Will be running either an 80L (2.4ah average) or 55L (0.86ah average) fridge. Mostly wont be running off battery for more than 1 to 2 days at a time, once a month at most.

              PLEASE HELP ME, money is tight atm now due to some family illnesses and need to get this going so we can go visit asap.

              Comment


              • #8
                Do you have a Supercharge battery agent in in town.

                If so, see what their price is on an Allrounder.

                The Allrounder is a Calcium/Calcium battery and the 105Ah should the $200 mark.

                Comment


                • #9
                  had a look at them thanks.

                  Just wondering would a agm be a better bet, and is there agm's and agm's? there are some 2yr warranty ones on ebay for $300 100ah.

                  Dont really want it to get MORE expensive, but also dont want to have to keep replacing batteries.

                  cheers

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hi again mcfisherclan, one of the main considerations is the location of the auxiliary battery.

                    You’re correct when you asked whether there were AGMs and AGMs, because there is a major difference between the two popular types of AGM.

                    The typical AGM is a Standby type, like Fullriver AGMs and then there is the more expensive automotive grade AGMs, like Optima.

                    Automotive grade AGMs can be used as direct replacements for flooded wet cell batteries and can be safely fitted under the bonnet. They will tolerate higher voltages, full inrush charge currents and are not effected by the high engine bay temperatures.

                    Most Standby type AGMs are both charge voltage and charge current limited and do not get a long life span if fitted under the bonnet of most vehicles.

                    The lower operating voltages of newer Toyotas will keep both the charge voltage and current under control but the exact location of these batteries when used in an engine bay is still a potential heat problem.

                    Plus, if you decide to use one of LeighW’s voltage boosters, the higher voltage that can be applied to these Standby type AGM batteries can still present a problem.

                    If you are mounting the battery somewhere else in your vehicle, then all these problems are nullified and you can use any type of AGM without risk of damaging them.
                    drivesafe
                    Senior Member
                    Last edited by drivesafe; 28-06-2011, 07:01 PM.

                    Comment

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