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  • Blocking EGR

    Hi guys, yes I'm a low poster but would appreciate some info.
    I have a Hi Lux with D4d motor and want to block the EGR.
    If I cut a plate the same as the pic below, will it do the job? I plan to fit it between the EGR and intake manifold but don't know if there is anything that may get in the way between the two faces, I don't want to pull it apart just to find out. sorry about the huge pic.

    EDIT, Sorry guys, wrong part number I am told.
    the ferret
    Junior Member
    Last edited by the ferret; 09-06-2011, 08:30 PM.

  • #2
    Dont need to replace the gasket, just block the vacuum line that operates the ERG valve.
    John

    Comment


    • #3
      Thankyou for your reply Johna, Yeah a few mates want to block it off completely, I have a feeling it's jammed open so want block it off at the inlet manifold, then I don't need to worry about it, rather than the cost of a new EGR lol
      Cheers Rod.

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi Rod
        Damonat made a new gasket for his 1KZ, but I think he couldn't find a drill for the centre hole, so he's fitted it without the hole, with the plan that one day he'll drill it out (wink wink)http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...tle-body/page6. So there is no problem with your method with the 1KZ, so I would assume it should be ok with the D4D. I'm also planning to do this to my 1KZ soon, as a part of the intake clean, injector and glow plug replacement.

        Matt
        2003 Prado Grande TD Auto Pearl White

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks Matt, yer ya can never find the right size drill bit eh?
          Thanks for your help Guys. I have set up a jig so I can cut more if need be. 1mm stainless seems the go from all reports.I too will leave all vacuum lines in situ and operating. I may remove the butterfly on the intercooler as well if it has one!! I'm a bit new to Prados.
          Cheers Rod.

          EDIT Sorry guys, Toyo gave me the wrong part number,,ooooops!
          the ferret
          Junior Member
          Last edited by the ferret; 09-06-2011, 08:27 PM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi there

            I wanted to write a basic explanation of the EGR in as simple terms as possible so that any home handyman has a better understanding of how and what purpose it serves.

            NOx (Nitrogen oxide) Formed once combustion exceeds 2500F.

            Oxygen + Nitrogen = NOx (oxide of nitrogen). these accure when high temps rise in the combustion chamber on the short duration peak temperatures which are created towards the end of a combustion process.

            The EGR valve allows the Exhaust gases to cool the combustion in order to reduce these temperatures. Lower peak combustion temperatures which reduces NOX and thermal energy which provides more mechanical load which = more power.

            PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Oil Mist.

            all 4 stroke engines leak small amounts of combustion gas past the piston rings into the crankcase of the engine (known as blow-by), also in the crankcase is oil mist caused by the engine oil being thrown around inside the engine.

            To stop the blow-by pressurizing the crankcase the crank case needs to be vented (If not vented crank case press causes engine oil seals to leak). Venting those gases/emissions into the atmosphere is also illegal.

            Manufacturers run a hose (the PCV hose) from the rocker cover on top of the engine back around to the intake duct between the air filter and the intake manifold as this allows the PCV vapors (a mix of blow-by/oil mist) to be drawn back into the engine to be burnt.

            A downside to this Venting process is that the oil mist condenses and coats the entire intake tract with a fine coating of oil, It then turns into a black sticky gunk in the throttle housing and inlet manifold. (Eventually leading to loss of power and bad fuel consumption).

            There are many manufacturers that sell devices that help to reduce and trap these oily vapors before reaching the intake manifold.

            A PCV filter or catch can fits in line with the PCV hose and separates the oil mist and blow-by. The oil is trapped to be drained later and the blow-by is allowed through to the intake to be burnt.

            Hope this has made a few things clearer for the home handyman before blocking the EGR

            PS. If you use the blanking plate for the EGR inter-cooler you will get an error code as i did Don't quote me but from what i can see it looks like that is where the engine also dumps its access boost back into the exhaust as there is no manual dump valve on the 1KD D4D' turbo's.

            PPS. I have already r & r inlet manifold on mine & re-used gsk's (Alloy) & injector pipes with no leaks.
            Last edited by SWR; 21-09-2011, 04:37 AM. Reason: Added extra txt

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Skywalkerrun View Post
              Hi there

              PS. If you use the blanking plate for the EGR inter-cooler you will get an error code as i did Don't quote me but from what i can see it looks like that is where the engine also dumps its access boost back into the exhaust as there is no manual dump valve on the 1KD D4D' turbo's.yes this will occur on a D4D. 1kz's are fine and don't produce any error codes here. 1kz dump there over boost into the exhaust as most turbo vehicles do with internal wastegates.

              PPS. I have already r & r inlet manifold on mine & re-used gsk's (Alloy) & injector pipes with no leaks. toyota recommend the alloy pipes as single use only, but it not uncommon to be able to re-use these a couple of times, as long as the alignment of components hasn't changed to far.
              just thought i'd clarify as the topic doesn't denote for D4D's or 1KZ's.
              the oil vapour from the PCV does adhere to the internals of the intake.
              it does however require carbon to produce the thick sticky substance that most of us have found.
              the carbon is introduced from the unburnt fuel of the combustion process and delivered to the intake via the EGR system.
              if 1 of these supplies is not present (vapour/carbon) or reduced, then there is less chance of this re-occurring.
              and it's easier for us 1kz drivers to apply this to the egr.
              for the D4D owners, you will find this a much harder process as the ECU receives so many inputs that this is very difficult.
              [url=http://www.fuelly.com/driver/damonat/prado][img]http://www.fuelly.com/smallsig-metric/50578.png[/img][/url]

              Comment


              • #8
                At the Very start of this blog "the ferret" - 27 May 2011

                QUOTE: I have a Hi Lux with D4d motor and want to block the EGR

                On the #4 reply ------------------ "waltec" - 29-May-2011

                QUOTE: So there is no problem with your method with the 1KZ, so I would assume it should be ok with the D4D.

                On the #7 Reply ------------------ "damonat" - 21-Sep-2001

                QUOTE: just thought i'd clarify as the topic doesn't denote for D4D's or 1KZ's.

                On the #6 reply ------------------ "Skywalkerrun" - 21-Sep-2011

                QUOTE: Don't quote me but from what i can see it looks like that is where the engine also dumps its access boost back into the exhaust as there is no manual dump valve on the 1KD D4D' turbo's.

                So where you say QUOTE: - "damonat" - just thought i'd clarify as the topic doesn't denote for D4D's or 1KZ's.

                I would add that YOU did not read the post properly Mr TOYOTA.

                I also add that all manifold Gsk's ARE Aluminum metal and that the injector lines ARE gal metal NOT Aluminum!!!

                On the #7 Reply ------------------ "damonat" - 21-Sep-2001

                QUOTE: the oil vapor from the PCV does adhere to the internals of the intake.

                This is also true on the 1KD D4D as it goes directly from the Cylinder head cover (Rocker cover) Directly to the rear of the intake side of the turbo then sent through the inter-cooler (Where it condenses in to oil form) then through the intake housing where it meets up the the EGR valve in a nice oily state!

                Carbon is not sticky! .... Oil vapor "is" and is made into a thick sticky gunk when adding EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) gases on top of it.

                And yes here is a few sensors on the D4D manifold intake side: Air Mass/Air Density/Air temp/ egr valve position/Turbo press as just a few which are all then processed by the ECU (Electronic Control Unit).

                As you did not answer! Where does the manifold boost get dumped as it does not have an external waste gate! .... Once you answer this you will know where the error code on the 1KD D4D's comes from!

                If you read my reply along side the total blog i think my reply was fair and not SMART!

                This forum is about us (the community) helping jo blogs save money and to be pointed in the right direction and to not blow all his cash where it is not needed!

                Toyota states to never go anywhere else but genuine!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Skywalkerrun View Post
                  At the Very start of this blog "the ferret" - 27 May 2011

                  QUOTE: I have a Hi Lux with D4d motor and want to block the EGR

                  On the #4 reply ------------------ "waltec" - 29-May-2011

                  QUOTE: So there is no problem with your method with the 1KZ, so I would assume it should be ok with the D4D.

                  On the #7 Reply ------------------ "damonat" - 21-Sep-2001

                  QUOTE: just thought i'd clarify as the topic doesn't denote for D4D's or 1KZ's.

                  On the #6 reply ------------------ "Skywalkerrun" - 21-Sep-2011

                  QUOTE: Don't quote me but from what i can see it looks like that is where the engine also dumps its access boost back into the exhaust as there is no manual dump valve on the 1KD D4D' turbo's.

                  So where you say QUOTE: - "damonat" - just thought i'd clarify as the topic doesn't denote for D4D's or 1KZ's.

                  I would add that YOU did not read the post properly Mr TOYOTA.

                  I also add that all manifold Gsk's ARE Aluminum metal and that the injector lines ARE gal metal NOT Aluminum!!!

                  On the #7 Reply ------------------ "damonat" - 21-Sep-2001

                  QUOTE: the oil vapor from the PCV does adhere to the internals of the intake.

                  This is also true on the 1KD D4D as it goes directly from the Cylinder head cover (Rocker cover) Directly to the rear of the intake side of the turbo then sent through the inter-cooler (Where it condenses in to oil form) then through the intake housing where it meets up the the EGR valve in a nice oily state!

                  Carbon is not sticky! .... Oil vapor "is" and is made into a thick sticky gunk when adding EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) gases on top of it.

                  And yes here is a few sensors on the D4D manifold intake side: Air Mass/Air Density/Air temp/ egr valve position/Turbo press as just a few which are all then processed by the ECU (Electronic Control Unit).

                  As you did not answer! Where does the manifold boost get dumped as it does not have an external waste gate! .... Once you answer this you will know where the error code on the 1KD D4D's comes from!

                  If you read my reply along side the total blog i think my reply was fair and not SMART!

                  This forum is about us (the community) helping jo blogs save money and to be pointed in the right direction and to not blow all his cash where it is not needed!

                  Toyota states to never go anywhere else but genuine!
                  Who ever says what, and what ever, the aim of the game is as you said, to help others and save them some dollars.
                  I post up what I know to be true and correct, as many others do for this very reason.
                  If there is something that I'm not sure of, I ask, as I did in the first place with regard to my Hilux egr.
                  I didn't get the info I needed here so went elsewhere, but that is not a problem.
                  I find as a fairly new member, the people on here are friendly and always willing to help.
                  Being a Fitter/Turner as well as a bush mechanic with over 50 years in the game, if I can help someone, I'm happy to do so.
                  Keep up the good work fellas, regards Rod, The ferret.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    HI There Again.

                    Apologies to all

                    Original question was and i will stick to the original question in hand

                    Quote: I have a Hi Lux with D4d motor and want to block the EGR.
                    If I cut a plate the same as the pic below, will it do the job? I plan to fit it between the EGR and intake manifold but don't know if there is anything that may get in the way between the two faces, I don't want to pull it apart just to find out.

                    Reply: I can not see the pic for the plate but the answer to your question is "Yes" you can fit the plate as there is nothing in between the two surfaces apart from an aluminum gkt on the D4D 1KD engine (Not the 1KZ) and a 2-3mm plate will not stop anything from re-assembly! (I only used gsk sealer when fitted plate).

                    You will also need ONLY to un-screw Injector pipes 1-2-3 (17mm) from the main fuel common rail below the intake manifold. As this will allow you to move the housing to get the plate in.

                    The fuel system on the (1KD D4D) is self purge so there is no need with having to bleed the air out of the fuel rail or injector pipes (I would still use the pre-pump on the fuel filter housing to build up fuel rail pressure before starting).

                    On the 1KD D4D engines there is plenty of sensors etc that communicate with the ECU so you will have to drill a hole in the middle of this plate that you will be fitting so that the Turbo manifold boost can be dumped back into the exhaust system or you will get an engine light with a error code (Only applies to the 1KD D4D).

                    I also see no problem with blanking off the vacuum hose for the EGR venturi flap below the manifold as this is not monitored by the ECU as such. The EGR valve at the very back of the engine "is" monitored and must be left alone!

                    May i also add as i tried to explain in the reply #6 EGR does cause carbon build up but the main culprit for intake manifold build-up on ALL 4-stroke engines is the oil mist that is re-directed into the intake system via the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation). That is why it is a thick black sticky substance.

                    This is also why you always get oil leaking from the back of the turbo-intake and the turbo-inter cooler as it condenses back into an oil state as it makes its way to the manifold and this oil can sometimes be mistaken for a worn turbo!

                    This oil mist can be REDUCED but not stopped by installing a PCV filter or PCV catch can. these set-ups will separate the oil mist and trap it but let the blow-by gases proceed to the intake manifold. (Please read basic principle on reply #6).

                    Hope this explains your question better "The ferret" and that you have a better understanding of how it all works in a basic manner.

                    PS Sorry for coming across as a troll. Re-read this morning and had no reason to attack any ones opinion! Redemption in hand

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      A great post Skywalkerrun, thank you, I am now well informed and from what I've read, you are spot on.
                      Regards Rod.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hi all,

                        I have just decided to do this mod but find pictures no longer available.

                        Would be appreciated if someone could tell me which is the correct hose to plug.

                        I believe from the above there are two EGR valves, one attached to the EGR cooler and one connected
                        to the inlet manifold?

                        From the above it seems you block the line going to the one attached to the cooler, is this correct?

                        If there is more than one vacuum line attached to the valve which one is to be blocked?

                        Thanks for any info available.

                        Cheers
                        LeighW
                        HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Gday Leigh

                          You do not disconnect either the yellow and purple which are together at the very back of the engine which is also connected directly to the EGR valve.

                          Disconnect and plug the single vacuum hose (Purple tracer) that is only one hose connected to a vacuum canister directly in-front of you from the passenger side of the car below the intake manifold.
                          Cheers

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Continuation of #06 & #10

                            Hi all

                            I have done another basic description on the EGR system of the 1KD D4D engine & this does NOT apply to the 1KZ mainly due to the Turbo & EGR configuration.

                            May I also add that i did not do this write-up to start an argument but to let those who are not fully mechanically minded to have a better understanding.

                            On the 1KZ engines the turbo has a mechanical waste gate attached to the external of the turbo which is operated by manifold pressure and independent of the EGR system so when you block the EGR port everything runs happy (Better) and no more EGR gases are pumped into the intake manifold and you get to run the engine on nice clean air and boost pressures are not provoked.

                            If you block or restricted the EGR system on the 1KD D4D engine by fitting a blanking plate you will inadvertently increase fuel consumption (Worse) and cause loss off power backed up with an engine check light with error code

                            You can get rid of the error code by drilling a whole in the middle of the banking plate (10mm) which will stop the error code but you will still cause issues globally due to the restriction of the turbo boost dumping process!

                            REASON: The 1KD has a variable high press turbo which is mechanically adjusted via an electronic solenoid which is solely controlled by the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) to improve the spooling of the turbo depending on engine rpm.

                            IF this doesn't make things harder to by-pass the EGR system then what follows will! The 1KD does not have a simple system like on the 1KZ's but rather a system where the turbo boost is sent BACK through the EGR cooler on the same path in-order to dump the access turbo boost back into the exhaust. (EGR valve in the intake throat opens to let exhaust gases in but also opens to let access turbo boost out).

                            Depending on engine load the access turbo boost needs to be dumped immediately. If this is not accomplished then the turbo boost will hang around in the intake manifold and inter-cooler which will cause a leaning off (Weak Mixture) in the combustion chamber and the boost that is trapped will back-flow back into the inter-cooler then pushed through the air filter box in order to escape. This will also put the dirty air and EGR gases across the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. This will also be recognised by the turbo sensor located on the turbo inter-cooler which will be sent to the ECU and will in-turn drop the fuel rail pressure to try and reduce the access boost that has been trapped!

                            OUTCOME: Even though the car will drive "ok" it will feel doughy at the pedal and feel like you are driving in a head wind and your fuel consumption will get worse not better.

                            I know that this whole principle of the 1KD sux but apart from being stuck with EGR gases it is a very officiant principle.

                            OPTIONS: If you want to reduce the fouling of the intake components the only best option at the moment (Until someone develops a chip to disarm the EGR gas flow but still allow the EGR valve to operate to dump access boost) is to fit a PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) filter or catch-can to at-least reduce oil mixing in the intake manifold which is made very sticky when EGR gases are blown across the oil.

                            The cooler housing for the EGR does not only cool EGR gases but has a simple switching mechanism which is controlled by a vacuum canister that closes one port and opens another simultaneously when dumping turbo boost.

                            Blanking off this vacuum line does not effect turbo dump as it just back-tracks through the port that is open as both ports are linked together anyway! One side is cooled by the engine coolant for the hot EGR gases and the other is just a straight through port for dumping access boost.

                            PS. Hint! I basically mean to say Do Not Block EGR port with a blanking plate on 1KD D4D.

                            Hope this has made a few things clearer for some one who is thinking of fitting the blanking plate on the EGR on the 1KD D4D.
                            Last edited by SWR; 01-10-2011, 06:45 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Another valuable and informative post skywalkerrun, thanks.
                              By the way, for what it's worth, you are correct.
                              Cheers, the ferret. (bush mechanic)

                              Comment

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