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  • 1Kz cooling...questions

    My 06 GX has cooling problems...I think!

    I recently had a bullbar installed (TJM Outback) and about a week before went 4WDing in a bit of mud. After about a week it started overheating up to the red line. No boiling, just the gauge. The engine did seem a bit hot though at the end of a drive.

    First thought was that the new bullbar was restricting flow however I doubted TJM could have got it so wrong. I removed the plate which sits over the winch fairlead hole hoping this would help. It may have a bit but I still got overheating.

    Someone at work suggested head gasket might have been shot but there was no white under the oil cap.

    Next I thought the mud might have blocked the condenser and radiator so I gave it a good squirt with the pressure cleaner for a good 1/2 hr. The amount of mud that came out was amazing.

    Results were better with no redlining but I still get the needle creeping up a bit on hot days (30?). Today I changed my oil, air and fuel filters and oil. Tonight it ran with the needle at 1/2 way up which is where it normally sits once it's warmed up. I'm not losing coolant or water.

    Now my questions:

    Firstly, for those with bullbars (and diesels, better yet the 1Kz), where does the needle normally sit and do you find the needle creeps up a bit now you have a bar?

    I want to try taking out the thermostat to see if it changes anything. Stupid question I guess but where is it? And are there any other suggestions?
    Cheers - Phil Taylor

    Prado KZJ120 2006 GX 3.0ltr Manual TJM T13 Bar, Airtec Snorkel, Sand/snow mats, cargo barrier, Cruise, Budget Campertrailer, 8x17" steelies w/ 265/70/R17 Mickey Thompson ATZ 4 ribs, Binatone GPS, Other Stuff...

  • #2
    Re: 1Kz cooling...questions

    FBP

    My 1KZ sits just under 1/2 on a hot day, and 1/3 in Winter.

    While your description could lead to some thinking of cracked head or gasket, there are a few things to def check prior. With a few mods over Winter such as bullbar, different tyre sizes, some Winter mud in radiator, and the first hot day could push the cooling system over the limit.

    While the redline temps would not have helped, dont despair just yet. These are some of the things that I check first on overheating problems.

    * You need to be absolutely sure all that mud is out of the radiator or Condenser fins. Any residual mud will restrict air flow and therefore reduce cooling. I would be revisiting this first. May even need to remove radiator to be sure.
    * Condition of coolant and check that all of the radiator core is working. A radiator shop will have Infra Red temp gun to check for even cooling across the entire core, but you can check yourself by placing palm of hand on core and feeling for cold areas, which would indicate a partial blockage of core
    * A common issue with slowly rising temp gauge can be the fan hub clutch not working properly, or even working at all. The are websites (maybe links on Pradopoint) about this. I will find and post for you. Some hubs dont work correctly when the vehicle leaves the factory, and I have found this a problem on some Toyotas. They can also fail at any time, and a mudbath doesnt help! The fan hub issue is often not diagnosed properly, and many head gaskets been changed through not checking this.
    * Check fan belt tension. Yes I know its an obvious one, but they dont always squeal when slipping.
    * Dont remove thermostat. Its there to do its job, and part of that job is to slow the speed of the coolant as it goes through the radiator, allowing it enough time to actually cool down. Is the engine getting to operating temperature in normal time? If not, then check that thermostat is not stuck open.

    These are just a few things I check first on overheating engines. Others may have more tips to offer.

    Good luck
    Cheers

    Daz

    2004 TD GXL Auto Prado

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: 1Kz cooling...questions

      Daz has some very good ideas that you should have checked out.
      i never use a high pressure washer for cleaning out condensors or radiators,
      as this can bend or remove the cooling fins. i just use the garden hose with good pressure.
      also run your hose from the engine bay side and flush forwards, as only flushing through condensor can push
      mud into radiator and not enough force to flush out of it.
      definately don't remove thermostat. if in doubt replace it and the o-ring with a genuine toyota.
      the slowing of water flow through the engine enable heat to be transferred and then tranferred again at the radiator.
      we have a 1kz, and it sit just under half all year round except when pushed hard it get to half (bar, lights, winch)
      [url=http://www.fuelly.com/driver/damonat/prado][img]http://www.fuelly.com/smallsig-metric/50578.png[/img][/url]

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: 1Kz cooling...questions

        Thanks Daz & Damonat, I have replaced the fan belt recently so tensioning that and re-cleaning the condenser will be first options. I hadn't thought of the fan clutch either. I'll work through one by one. I had only planned to remove the thermostat for a quick test but by the sound if that's not a great idea. I have a trip to Adelaide with the camper next week so I'm a little nervous.
        Cheers - Phil Taylor

        Prado KZJ120 2006 GX 3.0ltr Manual TJM T13 Bar, Airtec Snorkel, Sand/snow mats, cargo barrier, Cruise, Budget Campertrailer, 8x17" steelies w/ 265/70/R17 Mickey Thompson ATZ 4 ribs, Binatone GPS, Other Stuff...

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: 1Kz cooling...questions

          speeds of over 80km/hr, the fan doesn't work anyway, so highway/freeway runs will be ok if fan is the issue.
          alot of radiator mobs buy up toyota viscous fan hub oil all the time when summer hits,
          so this is possible as the temp starts to rise.
          [url=http://www.fuelly.com/driver/damonat/prado][img]http://www.fuelly.com/smallsig-metric/50578.png[/img][/url]

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: 1Kz cooling...questions

            Here is link to viscous fan hub overhaul, should the issue end up being this. Im not sure its the link I was actually looking for, as its for 80 series, but still covers the points. Im sure I saw one here or on LCOOL. Perhaps someone else can help here
            http://www.offroad80s.com/how-to-top...mod-t1160.html

            Depending on how you go, the whole overheating thing requires a structured diognosis before removing cylinder head. Things such as blocked exhaust, tyre pressures, dragging brakes etc have been previously overlooked by people focusing on the overheating engine, and not the root cause

            Good luck
            Cheers

            Daz

            2004 TD GXL Auto Prado

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: 1Kz cooling...questions

              Not a 120 but a 1kzte anyway.....aluminium bullbar & driving lights
              The needle sits below half winter/summer. I have a digital temperature gauge, it registers between 70-80 degrees depending on if your going down hill or up. The gauge does not move at all over this range. In fact I had reached 92 on Fraser recently, still the gauge did not move.

              I recently added a bug blind (plastic flyscreen) across the front of the car - the digital gauge immediately read 5 degrees hotter on my run in to town peaking @ 82 degrees.....

              Now with summer coming on, I think I need to change the warning preset from 90 degrees :shock:

              Cheers
              Richard
              2011 GXL TD Auto Prado Silver

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: 1Kz cooling...questions

                Hi Flyingbushpig,

                Whatever is going wrong, I hope you get it sorted soon.

                I am STILL going back and forth with Toyota, and the CTTT (Consumer Trader and Tenancy Tribunal of NSW) arguing my case for a major engine repair under Warranty.

                Toyota are arguing I have allowed the vehicle to overheat at some stage (and my needle has never gone over 1/2way) and have at this stage declined warranty.

                I am taking them to the CTTT tribunal. I will let you all know how I get on in the weeks/months to come.

                My only real advice I have to offer Flying Bush Pig is this (and you would already appreciate it I am sure) ANY SIGNS OF ENGINE OVERHEATING OR OIL WARNING LIGHTS ARE POTENTIALLY FATAL and need to be addressed asap.

                Good luck with it mate and hope you sort it out :?
                Greg Simpson "Simmo"
                Simmo's Offroad Tours
                Winery Tours - Scenic 4WD Tours - Camping Adventures
                Orange NSW
                [url="http://www.simmosoffroadtours.com"]www.simmosoffroadtours.com[/url]

                2006 Toyota Prado TD GXL, Dune in colour.
                Sovereign Bullbar, Hella lights, cargo barrier, Opposite Lock Rackmaster racks, Waeco 60L Fridge, Cooper STT's, Sandrabba Matts, GME TX3400,

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hi all,

                  I have some heating issues with my Prado. I find that towing my camper at highway speeds it will heat up on hills even on a cool day <20 degrees. It can climb to 3/4 on the gauge. I also find that when the motor is revving higher say 2500 - 3000 rpm it seems to be cooler than when in 4th gear (auto) at 1800 - 2200 rpm. Once I am at the top of the hill or on the down hill the temp will quickly drop to a normal level. On a hot day it will heat up enough to shut off the A/C which worries me a bit.

                  I do a bit of offroading and have hosed out the radiator a few times (heaps of mud came out). I recently flushed out the radiator and changed the coolant but it doesn't seem to fix the problem.

                  Any thoughts on what could be the problem and what should I be looking for to rectify this. My mechanic reckons there is nothing wrong with the cooling system but I don't think he has done a thorough inspection yet, just the usual servicing inspection.

                  Any help is appreciated.

                  Cheers

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    My 2003 1KZ sits on 1/3 most of the time but work it a little it creeps towards 2/5, a long hill will put it up easier to hover around half.
                    As soon as you back of the throttle it comes back down to 1/3 or so. It does not need to be a hot day.
                    I have heard others say your gauge shouldnt move. So after watching it operate for a year including making sure the outer cores were clear of mud. I decided to give it some love and put a NEW radiator in, i havnt done the usual test (heading up the western out of baccus marsh) but have already done enough to see it has made no difference!
                    Yep so there was no blockage at all in the 9 yr old radiator (thats what i really expected with Toyota long life coolant and maintenence)
                    Im also wondering if mine is supposed to sit at 1/3 or is thermostat slightly stuck open keeping it a bit cool, and then when it needs to open more its stuck at the same spot?
                    I would imagine Toyoya would have designed a cooling system for this to keep the gauge steady at 1/3 or so like most other vehicles i service and drive do.

                    Am I asking too much? should i be happy for the gauge to go to half or so? or should it be able to sit on 1/3 ish steady?
                    Anth120playdo
                    Banned
                    Last edited by Anth120playdo; 22-10-2012, 09:52 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The gauge normally sits at half on both of the Prados I have owned. I would think yours is running cold unto a dodgy thermostat.

                      Cheers Andrew
                      [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

                      [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

                      [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


                      [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        thats what im thinking, the TOYota Genuine Thermostat is next!
                        is it under the top housing i assume? never had to change one.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I am pretty sure there is thread on how to change it.

                          Cheers Andrew
                          [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

                          [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

                          [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


                          [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Gday guys

                            Here is a good link below for the Viscousfan.
                            http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/tuni...ous-fan-clutch

                            Cheers

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The gauges are designed not to fluctuate so much that it will alarm people, problem is, by the time it has climbed up some times its too late. The best gauge is an after market one eg VDO etc with actual degree's or digital readout. My old 1kz use to sit just under 1/2 99% of the time and would drop down to say 1/3 if coasting down a hill on a cold day other wise once it got to temp it didnt move. Even when the head cracked it still didnt move !!! The only reason I knew I had an issue was on the way home from the PP GTG couple of years ago and noticed a few wet spots on the screen. Thinking it was the aircon dropping from the prado in front didnt think anything of it till I went to clean the screen with the wipers and squirters and noticed what was like an oil residue after the wiper passed over it. Checked it all out everything looked fine so kept going. Wasnt till a few days later I noticed the same going donw the M4 here in Sydney (had been driving to work for 2 weeks after the GTG but only local). Got to the inlaws and noticed water/coolant under the passengers guard. What was happening the system was pressurising due to exhaust gases getting into the cooling system and pushing it out the radiator cap into overflow bottle then when it got full would blow out onto ground. I was hoping it wasnt what I really new it was but did the other checks first. Replaced the thermostat (prick of a job) and was warned my the mechanic to never ever run it with out it, they are a two stage thermostat ?? he did the job best $50 I ever spent, he skinned a few knuckles doing it. Didnt solve the issue (deep down I knew it wouldnt) Checked belts, water pump, swapped over viscous coupling on the fan, no change.Pulled the radiator out myself took it down and had it cleaned out and rodded, came back as I thought, mate clean as a whistle inside no shit or blockages what so ever.. My mate did a dye test (not sure of correct name) meant to change green if exhaust gases in the system, kept coming up showing nothing. Problem was running around town it didn't show a single issue, nothing, zippo, but get it out on the freeway where it had to work harder and it would pressurize, we left the cap loose and took it for a flogging down the M4, we pulled up while it was burbling over (out from under lose cap) my mate then quickly put the pressure thingo on it again and bang, up come the green colour indicating exhaust gasses in the system. Now all this without one bit of movement from the temp gauge !!!! All up 4g thanks for coming on a vehicle that had been extremely well serviced, never over heated, stuff all towing, genuine coolant and filters, oil and filter done every 5k and all genuine parts used and cracked at 103 thou, sold it with 107k on it and still going strong now with the new lady owner............Cheers Steve

                              And dont use after market viscous fan hubs their shit including the well known brand DC. Toyota are dearer for sure but give a lot less issues. I have had two DG ones, one on a VL the other my old lux, worked when they wanted to not when needed, ended up putting genuine on the hilux never had another issue
                              Steve M
                              Addicted PP Member
                              Last edited by Steve M; 23-10-2012, 12:48 PM. Reason: Viscous fan
                              Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet

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