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  • Changing shocks myself

    Hi,

    I am about to tackle the job of replacing my shocks and springs on my 90.
    I have read that the top nut on the rear shocks is a bugger to undo. It has been recommended to get a flexible shaft spanner of sorts.
    My question is, what size is that nut? If I need to go an buy such a tool, it may help to know what size nut I am aiming at fitting.

    I am replacing with Bilsteins. Is the nut on the Bilsteins going to be the same size? Do they even come with a nut ?

    If anyone has done this before and can remember (I'm sure it was a memorable experience ) any help would be greatly appreciated.

    cheers,
    David
    David

    2013 FJ Cruiser
    265/75r17 Cooper ST Maxx, Rear locker/A-Trac/Crawl
    Losi Comp Crawler for the really rough stuff

  • #2
    Re: Changing shocks myself

    OK so it's just the crap that's on the old nut/thread that's the problem. I was thinking it was lack of decent access to even get a socket on there.
    I'm fine with trashing the old shocks. They leak anyway

    Thanks for the advice.
    David

    2013 FJ Cruiser
    265/75r17 Cooper ST Maxx, Rear locker/A-Trac/Crawl
    Losi Comp Crawler for the really rough stuff

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Changing shocks myself

      Hi Birdman,

      I'm pretty sure trojan is correct with the 14mm for the stock shocks, however the bilsteins i put in had 17mm nuts (these were 80s billies so not sure if yours would be the same). The problem with putting the billies in is that you need to be able to hold the stud from spinning while you tighten the locknut onto it (they are a different design to the stock ones and lovells etc in that you cant just hold the tube). The end of the stud has a hex fitting for an allen key to go into, however by using this you cannot get a socket over it to tighten the nut.

      The best/only way i found of doing it was with adjustable neck ratchet spanners, an allen key and a small length of pipe over the allen key to hold it in place and get your hand out of the way to turn the spanner. You could do it with a normal offset neck spanner but it would take an eternity. Definately recommend having a second person there to help with the billies.

      Have fun! I know i did. . .

      Cheers, Brent
      2000 GXL kimberly pack, 3.4 Auto, 2" kings, 80series Lovells rear shocks, GME UHF, TJM Steel Bull Bar.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Changing shocks myself

        Hi Birdman. Please take pics of the install as well as a detailed explanation of what you did. I am thinking of doing this as well and would love to get some ideas.

        Cheers
        Wayne
        2000 VX Grande 3.4L , Bonnet/Light protectors , Toyota tow bar & bullbar,Hayman Reece brake controller, GME 3220 UHF, TJM Compressor,Nane 7200 spotties, Safari Snorkel, TJM XGS Gold suspension, Magellan Crossover, Cheap GPS with Ozi Explorer and Pradopoint sticker

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Changing shocks myself

          I tightened up mine the other day, they had come loose and it was 17mm, but they are OME aswell.
          2000 Toyota Prado GXL- Gone, but not forgotten...
          '92 Landcruiser HDJ80 4"lift 33's
          '91 Surf LN130 coil sas, 4.8s, 35s
          '12 Jayco Eagle Outback

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Changing shocks myself

            Originally posted by waylib
            Please take pics of the install as well as a detailed explanation of what you did. I am thinking of doing this as well and would love to get some ideas.
            Yeah that sounds like a smart thing to do. Will make sure to document the install and the pain and bloodied knuckles along the way. I got under the back today and tried cleaning out the tops of the rear shocks. There was so much crusted dirt/mud up in there. The drain holes were blocked solid. Once I twisted my arm into a position that I didn't think it could go, it was the most I could do to wiggle my fingers to loosen the dirt, god knows how I'm going to get a spanner up in there. It's going to be fun. I'm expecting there'll be more room once it's jacked up a bit.
            Thanks for everyones advice. I'll post pics in a couple of weeks once I've done it :shock:
            David

            2013 FJ Cruiser
            265/75r17 Cooper ST Maxx, Rear locker/A-Trac/Crawl
            Losi Comp Crawler for the really rough stuff

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Changing shocks myself

              Birdman

              Installing the rear Bilstein's will test you that's for sure. You will need to use an allen key on the top of the shaft as well as a spanner on the mounting nut. The reason is that the Billies are mono tube so you cant rotate the shock body while holding a spanner on the nut to tighten the shock. If you try to do this the centre shaft just rotates within the shock body :lol:

              I taped an extension to the allen key and slipped it through the gap between the inside of the wheel arch and the chassis. Then I used a ring spanner that I had already positioned onto the mounting nut. It was a quarter of a turn at a time with the spanner while holding the allen key with the other hand, all done by feel whilst contorting my body into the wheel arch with the wheel removed :lol: :roll:

              Almost impossible but not quite.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Changing shocks myself

                Hi,
                I thought I'd better update this thread.
                I installed the Bilsteins and raised Lovells on the weekend. I was surprised that the coils and shocks seemed to be the same height and length as the stockos. Obviously the springs were thicker so would give more resistance. I gave up trying to replace the rear shocks myself. I fugured if they weren't any longer and were going to be a pig to change, I would go and speak to the guy I got them from and try and get longer ones. I ended being talked out of it and I got him to fit the rears. All the shoving around of the lower arms loosened one of the inner CV boots which ended up spewing grease when on the road. I had the clamp replaced and all good again.
                All up I gained 20mm on the front which is disappointing, and 60mm in the rear. The Bilstein struts had the 3 grooves for the circlip (10mm apart) and came set on the lowest setting. Not knowing what the results would be I left them that way. In hinde sight I should have moved it up to the top groove, then I would have a decent lift on the front. Has anyone else moved the circlip ? What's the best setting?

                cheers
                David

                2013 FJ Cruiser
                265/75r17 Cooper ST Maxx, Rear locker/A-Trac/Crawl
                Losi Comp Crawler for the really rough stuff

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Changing shocks myself

                  Originally posted by BirdMan
                  Hi,
                  All up I gained 20mm on the front which is disappointing, and 60mm in the rear. The Bilstein struts had the 3 grooves for the circlip (10mm apart) and came set on the lowest setting. Not knowing what the results would be I left them that way. In hinde sight I should have moved it up to the top groove, then I would have a decent lift on the front. Has anyone else moved the circlip ? What's the best setting?
                  cheers
                  From what I have read on this forum, the circlip position depends what you already have on the front of your car. It is like a preload setting. If you've got a bar, winch and dual batteries, then you need to set the circlip to the top. Most have it on the center. Do a search on circlip and you will see what others have set theirs at.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Changing shocks myself

                    OK............. After reading all this, I have to be honest I was getting pretty hesitant about even going near the back of my 97 GXL Prado. Hell I even procrastinated for a few days.

                    BUT THEN................ I got under the car and got both shocks out and in within half an hour !!!! Now I am of course not sure what options you guys explored when attacking this, but did anyone consider getting UNDER the car? I only ask this because most of what I read refers to accessing the top nut through the side (between chassis rail and body).

                    This is how I did it............. Hopefully it will help others out in the future.

                    The only tools I used were a 14mm spanner, and a 17mm socket/ratchet (17mm spanner would work too)

                    1: I didn't even jack the car up, I laid under it, armed with a 14mm run of the mill open/ring spanner.

                    2: Placed spanner ring over top bolt (not hard to reach, i was confused at this point what all the fuss was about). I then turned the upper shock tube counter-clockwise until the spanner "jammed" itself against the body of the vehicle.

                    3: Keep turning the upper shock tube until the nut is off.

                    4: Use 17mm spanner or socket/ratchet to loosen lower shock mount bolt.

                    5: Remove shock.

                    6: To re-install......... reverse this process.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Changing shocks myself

                      It's been about 5years since I attempted it myself, and I could be wrong but I'm sure I managed to do one side the way you described , but on the other was blocked by fuel or brake lines or something (too dark and cold to go look now) I gave up and got my mechanic to do it.
                      [url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=29022]My Prado[/url]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Changing shocks myself

                        Yeah, access from underneath in my case was the issue. There was no easy path for my arm to get up there and get a spanner onto the top. To confirm this awkward process, the suspension specialist I took it to, just cut the old ones off, rather than try and undo them.

                        Maybe there is a difference between some models in this area ??
                        David

                        2013 FJ Cruiser
                        265/75r17 Cooper ST Maxx, Rear locker/A-Trac/Crawl
                        Losi Comp Crawler for the really rough stuff

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Changing shocks myself

                          Hey guys newbie here but just changed my front/rear shocks myself this morning with the help of a mate. No real issues once we figured the 1st strut; bigget problem here was lining the bottom eye bolt back up but once we worked the 1st strut out the 2nd was in/out within 5 mins. As for the rear followed the same process as Birdman, easier with the help of 2 and my mate had access to a pit so that made getting under the car so much easier. Figured we change all the fluids while we were under there. Car now rides much better with 296k on clock of my 02 GXL Diesel when we pulled the front stuts found to be originals not bad going but must admit they were in real need of replacement; rears were aftermarket at some stage before I bought the car. Gotta say these things are tough with those Ks and still going strong; though doesn't get alot of off road use but hope to change that in time.
                          2002 GXL TD - Stock - TJM Steel Bar

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Changing shocks myself

                            hi guys. After looking at this thread a few times for pointers i fitted my new shocks and springs this arvo/night. Took around 5 hours and alot of swearing. That LHR shocker top nut is a bastard to get on to and im sure ill have nightmares about it tonight. Im sure some models must differ with access to this mount as there was no way possible of getting my hand in there. Other side was a breeze. If it needs doing again one day i think ill just pay some one.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              i wonder if the person who had no problems just getting under the car and doing it from there had an RV, cos the 2.7L only has the main tank,
                              going to tackle the shock replacement when my get my cast off (broken hand).
                              will try and take some photo's.
                              99 RV6 Prado manual, 1" lift, ARB Steel winch bar, Ridge Ryder 9500lb winch, Lightforce 170 striker spot light, GME aerial,
                              Uniden UHF, TJM full roof rack, custom diff breathers, Advanti 16" wheels, 275/70r16 Maxxis Bravo 751, Pioneer head unit,
                              Milford cargo barrier, Tinted windows,

                              Comment

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