Is there a quick and easy way to run all accessories from the Aux battery?
Or do I need to run new wires to every accessory eg. rear cig lighter?
Cheers
hey daz, there is no quick and easy way, you have to run individual wires to everything. what do you wan to run off the aux battery, im assuming a cb, fridge etc,
had an 03 gx 120 with some gear now got a 2013 bt 50 GT auto some ARB gear.
I would have thought that a lot of that required new runs anyway. The wiring to the existing accessories socket in the back SHOULD be upgraded to run a fridge and so why not leave that and install a new socket for the fridge. CB is easy to wire off a new run and GPS, well is that in dash or on a mount?
If these are the main things to run then new cabling will not be an issue.
You could run 1 twin cable (positive and negative cable) from the aux battery to the rear of your car or else where. At the end of the twin cable connect it to a Blue Sea ST Blade Fuse Block with the Negative Bus (unless you want to create a new earth on the car), then you can run 1 to 6 leads from the fuse block to your accessories, you will need a fuse at the aux battery end for safe measure.
I'm about to do this installation soon to supply a socket for the fridge, and 2 leads with anderson plugs for 2 external Hella Marine LED flood lights on the roof rack. That leaves me with 3 extra outlets for me to ponder over...
You can check this Blue Sea System at http://www.12volt.com.au/ click on the "Fuse and Breaker" link and look for the ST Blade Fuse Block.
It's all about total current draw.
All copper wire has a resistance, and that resistance depends on length and thicknesss of the cable. ( short, thick =low resistance )
So if, say you are running lots of accessories in the back, you run a thick red and black wires from your aux battery under the bottom footwell trims to the back and then distribute to each accessory in the back with thinner wires. ( via a fuse block or bus bar ). You'll need to add up the current draw from all your accessories and calculate the thickness of wire from that ( there's calculators on the web that will help, but 10mm cable should be more than enough ). This is what I did and it works very well.
You can also "tap" off your thick wires along the way for any for accessories running in the passenger area. The simplest way to do this is just bare off a bit of the insulation with a stanley knife ( without cutting the wire ) then wrap and solder your thinner wires to it, then tape over well the bare parts. ( heat shrink is better but a bit difficult to fit here )
This method saves having to poke a new wire through the firewall every time you get a new toy.
You should have a main fuse ( say 30 amp ) near the battery and then have each accessory fused at the distribution point, with a lower amperage fuse.
mmmm... Just reading this again, sorry I might have missed the point of your question.
There are other threads relating to the install of the dual battery and pulling through a cable pair to the left rear. I've posted my pic's of the dual battery with Projecta fuse box on the positive terminal, the Projecta 150A dual battery system and the Blue Sea Fuse box located in the rear left cubby hole. I've yet to decide on drilling through the plastic cover to install a couple of hella female connectors or just leave the cables poking out of the lid when needed. Anyway the Blue Sea fuse box is mounted on a piece of ply that is stuck to the interior plastic with some heave duty stick on velcro.
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