My main quary is, how the voltage regulator on the charging circuit works?
Is it connected across the battery or at the alternator?
I need to know this be fore I build a circuit for charging an AGM battery for accessories as the orginal charging circuit is only about 13.4 Volts. Most AGM batterires like a Voltage around 14.3 Volts.
The max. current from the alternator is 80A. This info. came from Toyota Spare Parts. Max. output voltage I do not know, but on hind sight will check with Toyota Spare Parts.
My present thoughs are to bring the alternator out up to 14.3 Volts, so you are charging both batteries together, with out much change in Voltage across the starter battery.
Location: Parramatta, Sydney.
Present Model Grande.
The regulator is part of the alternator. It sit on the rear of the alternator, held on with a couple of mounting screws (Depending on engine it may be under an end cover).
It's a non servicable part (ie... buy a new one)
Mick
[CENTER][B][I][SIZE=1][COLOR=blue]1KZ-TE Turbo Diesel, 5 speed manual, 3.5 inch lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson MTZ, D-Tronic chip, Boost controller, mandrel exhaust, dump pipe, modified intake, ARB steel bar, Magnum winch, Safari snorkel, rear drawers, half cargo barrier, dual batteries, Uniden UHF, Sat Nav, reverse camera, Magellan XL , Tjm bash plates, ARB alloy roof rack, rear telescopic work light and numerous other modifications!!!
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I was told that the alternator was computer controlled?
If the voltage regulator was in the alternator would you not, have a constant voltage across the Battery.
When you start up, the voltage across the battery is only 12.4 volts for about 6 seconds, then increases to 13.7 Volts for about ten minutes, then drops slowly back to 13.4 Volts. It stops 13.4 Volts or close to it, even when youn load it up by switching every thing on.
When you talk to agents about installing a dual battery system, they are not to sure if their system will work or not, due to the low voltage across the main battery.
It's good to hear that installers are realising traditional solenoid dual battery systems will not work properly with the ECU controlled alterator on a D4D. The voltages you are seeing are noramal in a D4D and modifciation to change this would most likely void your warranty on anything electrical in the vehicle. This topic has been discussed in great detail in a number of threads and simplest option for someone looking for a plug and play solution is to install a Ranox. http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic....=a&hilit=Ranox
in simple dumb shit english for guy like me Leachy, does a Ranox use the Main Batteries power, then revamp it up using its own circuits to a higher voltage to charge the Dual Battery ?
Can this run of mains 240v power in your shed, or does it have to be put into the Prado and use 12v. Like yourself, I work away, and to have the Dual on trickle in the shed and have the wife kill the switch when its ready would be better for me, we use our 3rd row seats alot unfortunately to have it set up like yours and Crammy's
in simple dumb shit english for guy like me Leachy, does a Ranox use the Main Batteries power, then revamp it up using its own circuits to a higher voltage to charge the Dual Battery ?
Can this run of mains 240v power in your shed, or does it have to be put into the Prado and use 12v. Like yourself, I work away, and to have the Dual on trickle in the shed and have the wife kill the switch when its ready would be better for me, we use our 3rd row seats alot unfortunately to have it set up like yours and Crammy's
Golly,
You're correct in your DSE. The Ranox boosts the voltage up to a more usable voltage to charge the battery connected to it. Further to this, it also has multistages of charging to get the battery charged faster and to a higher level. It works in much the same way a CTEK charger does only it runs off 12v rather than 240V.
Depending on the battery you are using, you'll find you will not need to trickle charge your aux battery whilst you're away, especially if using an AGM (Which is highly advisable if putting battery in car). You can simply leave a CTEK or similar charger to look after your main battery. To run the Ranox off 240v you'll need to run it off a 240v-12v power supply.
My setup allows me to still utilise the third row if I need too. I simply unplug my aux battery (anderson plug) and away we go. If you're using the thrid row, you're probably not going to have room for a fridge anyway so no need to run the aux battery?
Is there no under bonnet version of Ranox or an equivalent. I really don't want to run a set of wires back and forward of the cabin to get to the under bonnet second battery.
June 2008 D4D 6sp Manual GXL. Toyota bull bar, Custom Leather, Piranha Duel Battery, Bridgestone D694s, IPF 900XS, ScanguageII, front radiator bash plate and Uniden UHF
Is there no under bonnet version of Ranox or an equivalent. I really don't want to run a set of wires back and forward of the cabin to get to the under bonnet second battery.
Much better idea for me 8)
One of the auto sparkys on site just said, "Is it possible to get Toyota to up the voltage output for the alternator through the ECU" to me IMHO Toyota are not allowing us to charge up a simple dual battery through a solenoid, therefore leaving us no choice but to purchase extra gear needed.... Can this be done ? :|
Is there no under bonnet version of Ranox or an equivalent. I really don't want to run a set of wires back and forward of the cabin to get to the under bonnet second battery.
No.
The power electronics in these products generate heat and require fan cooling, thus they are not weather proof and not suitable for under bonnet installation.
As for not wanting to run the cabling. That is a personal choice but there is no technical reason not do it. There is more than enough space in the cableways to accomadate the required cables.
This whole ECU controlled voltage thing is confusing.
I can see that the Ranox will give much better charging control than the standard systems, but at some cost. I've been doing a few 1 hour trips in the Prado this last week with the Thumper in the back (standard Thumper relay charge system). Checked the voltage this morning: 13.59v How is this even possible?
The voltage you are seeing is most likely a result of the recent charging and the test method used. Most probably what you are measuring is the battery surface charge. To properly test the battery you need to remove the surface charge by placing the battery under load for a couple of minutes.
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