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WayneG
05-10-2008, 08:58 PM
Has anyone changed the shoes on their hand brake recently?

If so, how did you do it? How does the rear axle separate from the handbrake backing plate? Had mine in bits today to adjust the hand brake shoes and could not work it out. Must be an easy way being a Toyota.

Cheers

Wayne

MickL
06-10-2008, 07:00 PM
Has anyone changed the shoes on their hand brake recently?


These should last the life of the car unless you are doing some serious hand brake turns off road :shock:

Mick

butane8
23-04-2010, 01:45 AM
i've got a new set of pads in the shed waiting for a chance to strip it down and replace 'em .... will reply when the change is in progress..butane

raydes
23-04-2010, 10:56 AM
Jack up ,take the wheel off, take out the two bolts holding the calliper on ,lift up the calliper ( don't undo the brake pipe). Then the rotor/disc/drum should just pull off . You can then change the handbrake shoes.

8608
23-04-2010, 11:08 PM
i've already gone through a set of handbrake shoes. my prado has just passed 50K on the clock, bought new Feb 2009 with 9kms on the clock.

its a real PITA job, and you need 3 hands to do it. even though the disc comes off the axle flange (where the studs are) the flange is pretty big and covers a lot of the area needed to work in.

unless you actually pull the axle assembly out, it gets extremely tight and fidgity to get right. you end up trying to clip the pin in several times cos you keep dropping them.

i didn't get pics, but i will next time i do them. i have a spare set in the garage.

ps. i do a lot of sandy based clay/mud as well as a lot of black soil mud. so handbrake shoes never last long at all.

winniliss
28-04-2010, 09:35 PM
I had to adjust my handbrake today and it will be a BITA job removing the shoes later. There is a clip that holds the shoe up against the plate.

http://s1.postimage.org/gxyX020.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxyX020)
Wheel taken off
http://s1.postimage.org/gxyX2x9.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxyX2x9)
Remove calliper mounting bolts (Note when putting back on torque to 105NM) and support callipaer
http://s1.postimage.org/gxyX7wr.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxyX7wr)
Rotor should slide off. May need some WD on the face
http://s1.postimage.org/gxyXa0A.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxyXa0A)
All the crap that gets in (car has done 18000kms. Not much room to work with removing springs etc if needed.
http://s1.postimage.org/gxyXhv0.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxyXhv0)
Cleaned with water and brush. Hair dried the area and used WD (dont get it in the pads) and clean inside the rotor At this point. From here you can tell how to take the shoes off.
http://s1.postimage.org/gxyXj_9.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxyXj_9)
Inspection hole for adjusting screw. (work out which way it goes before putting rotor back on.
http://s1.postimage.org/gxyXoZr.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxyXoZr)
inspection hole with rotor on (not much room, need small flat tip screw driver)

Screw brake shoes out until they rub constanlty when turning rotor then back off until it partly rubs.
Use handbrake a couple of times and check clearance. Torque wheel nuts to 112NM I didn't have to adjust inside the cab. Adjustment should allow 5-7 clicks of the handbrake

ntp
28-04-2010, 09:38 PM
My wife's got enough shoes already... she'd almost give Imelda Marcos a run for her money!

ntp
28-04-2010, 09:39 PM
Oops... shouldn't have just read the title before posting. :shock:

fishfinder
29-04-2010, 02:34 PM
Oops... should've have just read the title before posting. :shock:
yes my hand brake has plenty as well

winniliss
20-05-2010, 01:05 PM
Refer to the following photos to adjust handbrake via the centre console:

First of all, make sure the vehicle is on level ground and a block behind the wheel to stop it rolling
Remove the rubber mat and the two screws
http://s4.postimage.org/aV8IJS0.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV8IJS0)http://s4.postimage.org/aV8IMm9.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV8IMm9)

Open the lid and pull up on the plastic (top of drink holder) till it unclips then pull up on each corner at the front of the drink holder. The front clips are tight.
http://s4.postimage.org/aV8IORi.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV8IORi)http://s4.postimage.org/aV8IRlr.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV8IRlr)http://s4.postimage.org/aV8IWkJ.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV8IWkJ)http://s4.postimage.org/aV8IYPS.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV8IYPS)http://s4.postimage.org/aV8J0k0.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV8J0k0)

The following shows the handbrake adjusting nut. Pull the cable up to take the tension off it and then turn the nut towards the passenger seat a few turns. Apply the hand brake and count the clicks. You should have about 5 - 7 clicks. I found 5 works best when you have a heavy trailer on or on a boat ramp.
http://s4.postimage.org/aV8J2P9.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV8J2P9)http://s4.postimage.org/aV8J5ji.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV8J5ji)

butane8
11-01-2011, 10:33 PM
:arrow: take me off the list, had a crack at it today, pretty straight forward.
never lost it .... :x nearly once..

:idea: the second side was a pleasure to change.. i worked out the two top springs vary in size.. ( the hard way )
when re-assembling, clip the thick one on first then then other, to save " some " swearing and knuckles :oops:

http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/ae331/butane8/P1000979.jpg

:idea: put the adjuster in last after the top and bottom springs in place

:idea: if you get both rotors off you can use the opposite side to double check the assembly and your memory, when emotions are running hot' :evil:

:idea: once its all back assembled before you replace the rotors ... STOP ... triple check all the seating of every cable, spring, clip, shoe and adjuster..
you'll find something to correct... now check again... easier now then later.. :wink: you get the drift

http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/ae331/butane8/P1000975.jpg

the rest was pretty straight forward to adjust with both wheels off the ground..

http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/ae331/butane8/P1000977.jpg

....all up it took me about 2.5 hrs and skin off only 1 knuckle.. and minimal bad language , now :!: I have a handbrake.. hope this helped ...butane

prh
12-02-2011, 02:46 PM
Can someone describe or show a pic of the park brake shoe adjusting screw?

I ask because my old bmw 5 series had a star wheel screw which was oriented at 90 degrees to the little access port in the rotor. You had to use a small flat screwdriver to push the star wheel either up or down to adjust the shoes. It was a pain because you couldn't really see what you were doing.


Thanks! Paul

Chriso57
12-02-2011, 05:37 PM
Can someone describe or show a pic of the park brake shoe adjusting screw?

I ask because my old bmw 5 series had a star wheel screw which was oriented at 90 degrees to the little access port in the rotor. You had to use a small flat screwdriver to push the star wheel either up or down to adjust the shoes. It was a pain because you couldn't really see what you were doing.


Thanks! Paul

Paul,

What you have described is the same way a Prado adjuster works. See winniliss pics above for the hole location. You will need the hole right at the bottom. Then use a small flat screwdriver and wind the star wheel in an upwards direction to adjust the shoes out/downwards to wind them in. PITA job sometimes to locate the adjuster but a small point torch will help.

Chriso

prh
12-02-2011, 07:06 PM
What you have described is the same way a Prado adjuster works. See winniliss pics above for the hole location. You will need the hole right at the bottom. Then use a small flat screwdriver and wind the star wheel in an upwards direction to adjust the shoes out/downwards to wind them in. PITA job sometimes to locate the adjuster but a small point torch will help.
Chriso

Thanks, Chriso. You've at least taken the guess-work out of the screw direction for me!

Paul

kav
12-02-2011, 08:48 PM
wouldn't mind changing my handbrake or her shoes . never had problems with the direction of the screw. she always tells me which way to go .

Talktheroo
13-02-2011, 12:32 PM
Hey guys, If you are going through hand brake shoes, you are adjusting up to far. Put your wheel back on with two nuts and feel for brake rub. Re-adjust so the brake shoe does not touch. Also, if you are going to work on the ground I would suggest the purchase of some Kinchrome 3000kg stands or something similar. The stands are mounted to the chassis rails, not the diff. The stands you are using are not designed for 4wds. I have seen a person with his foot cut off through not using the right method of safety on the ground. Not nice, I can tell you.

Chriso57
13-02-2011, 08:02 PM
Hey guys, If you are going through hand brake shoes, you are adjusting up to far. Put your wheel back on with two nuts and feel for brake rub. Re-adjust so the brake shoe does not touch. Also, if you are going to work on the ground I would suggest the purchase of some Kinchrome 3000kg stands or something similar. The stands are mounted to the chassis rails, not the diff. The stands you are using are not designed for 4wds. I have seen a person with his foot cut off through not using the right method of safety on the ground. Not nice, I can tell you.

If at all in doubt with your stands then throw the wheel (on its side) under there aswell. I always do, just as a precaution. That way if it all goes pear shaped the car will only drop a few inches - not all the way to your foot :shock:

Chriso

Derb
15-02-2011, 06:03 PM
Hi fellas. Could someone advise me WTF is the go with not using axle stands on the axle? I have been using this method for the last 41 years as a mechanic - just the way it was taught at trade school. Never had one vehicle fall off yet and never seen one come off in the shop. Do your 120's have IRS or something? Cheers.

williade
15-02-2011, 06:14 PM
Hi fellas. Could someone advise me WTF is the go with not using axle stands on the axle? I have been using this method for the last 41 years as a mechanic - just the way it was taught at trade school. Never had one vehicle fall off yet and never seen one come off in the shop. Do your 120's have IRS or something? Cheers.
I second that. To use axle stands on the chassis at the rear would require stands with a raised height of something stupid like 800mm or so :shock:

Cheers,
Declan

butane8
15-02-2011, 08:19 PM
:?: no probs hear boys , im a boilermaker in heavy industry and i make alot of my own gear, my stands do " me " fine..
and generally put them where i want for the task at hand.. axle was good for the hand break shoes. but..............
each to their own .. my handbrake works sweet now thanks to this thread. :wink: . thanks boyz.. butane

:arrow: another tip , would be , before the adjuster goes back on . play with it work out which direction spreads the adjuster... assemble it in the narrow position.
( i set mine up so the top rolls inward to spread the shoes, allowed me to adjust with ease )

Talktheroo
18-02-2011, 08:53 PM
That is a sedan method, not a vehicle with a full chassis. Most 4wds can be classified as heavy vehicles so the chassis stands should be placed from the front, behind the front diff on the chassis rails and before the rear diff on the chassis rails. Lucky i'm not an Inspector, I'd nail your arses. Your limbs, your life, do what you want so long as you don't have kids. Happy hopping Mary Poppins.

http://s1.postimage.org/255bys938/Right_Stand_For_The_Job.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/255bys938/)

ntp
19-02-2011, 11:50 AM
Not this type of hand brake shoe replacement, obviously:

http://assets.lifehack.org/wp-content/files/2007/09/changing_shoes.jpg

Talktheroo
20-02-2011, 07:53 AM
I could do with a bit of that shoe replacement. Were you having a beer when you took this shot? You would have been in heaven just for a minute or two. Where's the Prado, that would of made it more interesting especially with a 50mm lift.

butane8
05-03-2011, 09:18 PM
:idea: I took the new hand brake shoes to wyangla dam 4 the weekend.. handbrake could do with a tighten..but a massive confident boost taking on bigar lookout..
the more i pull this car apart the more i like it :idea: butane

DamianG
15-03-2011, 09:48 PM
The drums should just slip off.

Yeah right. NO F'ing W@Y.

Mine were TIGHT. To get them off I had too...

1. removed the caliper bracket
2. Put a piece of soft wood (pine actully) against the back of the disk and pounded with a big hammer.
3. Work around the disk bit by bit.It should eventually slide off.

The spigot on the axle where the disk sits was rusty.

I suppose the main reason mine were so hard to get off was the fact someone (not me (-:) had broken a jacking bolt off in one of the jacking holes and the other was a bit rusty so didn't hold up to much pressure.

FYI the theads in the jacking holes are M8x1mm pitch. A normal bolt from the hard ware store will be M8X1.25 and will waste the thread quick smart.

cheers
Damian

butane8
16-03-2011, 06:16 PM
:arrow: DamianG, do you think it would have been a better idea to pay someone/ or do you think it is a D.I.Y ? loose much skin .. cheers butane

dibbledabble
11-03-2012, 12:49 PM
thanks winniliss,

After having taken my 2006 gxl to my mechanic and asking him to look at why my handbrake wasnt working, he came up with the conclusion i needed a new handbrake cable. He still adjusted my shoes and said it was working much better, $110 of labor gave me no improvement what so ever.

I had the rig booked into my toyota stealership for the soveriegn recall so i asked them to diagnose the handbrake too. I got the same answer, but this time with a quote - $750 bucks to replace the handbrake cable.

Thinking this was just not sounding right, and the fact id rather chock my wheels everywhere i go rather than hand them over 750 of my hard earned coin, i investigated myself, removed the center console and found that the nut on the lever had became lose and needed tightening. A dab of loctite and 10 minutes later i am 750 bucks better off.

Research first - Pay later.

winniliss
11-03-2012, 09:41 PM
Good help is hard to find...

BusterOz
09-04-2012, 06:24 PM
Mr Toyota fixed my handbrake recently - new shoes and rotors.

$370 parts plus $220 labour and GST! :eek:

1x 5654060060
2x 4655060070
2x 4658060060
1x BBC7671


Only 90k+ clicks on the clock

Anth120playdo
03-07-2012, 08:53 PM
I have found, once your handbrake is adjusted correctly, if you stay on the black, it wont need attention again, i have customers prado's example 250,000klms and all good! so yes may last a lifetime........

Once your in the mud and slop every other weekend very different story, mine could do with an adjust every month or 2, its ridiculous.
I certainly dont over adjust them i actually try to leave some clearance for the CRUD as it seems to act like emery paper.
I also avoid using the handbrake where possible. It was getting really bad......
So today i spent an hour, and pulled it apart for a clean and adjust, it all came up real well as usual, but my shoes are shagged, going to have to replace them, never had to change any before on these cars. looks like a real knuckle buster pain of a Job.
20,000klms of regualr offroad use and they are down to 1-2 mm.

Almost considering removing axles to do it....? How am i supposed to get to those retainer clips?
Where to buy shoes from? Toyota tell me nearly $200.00 hahahahaha
Repco tell me no listing......?

Any help with cheap supplier?
or try to convince me its not too hard so i actually do it.........

Thank you,

mkh
04-07-2012, 04:21 PM
Anth seeing you're in Melb try this mob: http://www.tradebrake.com.au/
They are in Clayton but pretty sure they deliver anywhere. They're usually really good at sourcing hard to find parts and their prices are generally very good. I, and my old man before me, have used them for over 20 years.

Cheers,
Markus.

butane8
06-11-2012, 05:59 PM
How am i supposed to get to those retainer clips?

try to convince me its not too hard so i actually do it.........

Thank you,,

GOT A LAFF OUTTA THAT STATEMENT,

yes they are a bit daunting at first, but once my freind "Ben" (ex mechanic) did one clip up as a this is how you do, wasnt gunna let him show me up.... lol.. i put the other three on with no probs.. just needed a gee up.. cheers butane

frederick
15-01-2013, 06:53 PM
,

GOT A LAFF OUTTA THAT STATEMENT,

yes they are a bit daunting at first, but once my freind "Ben" (ex mechanic) did one clip up as a this is how you do, wasnt gunna let him show me up.... lol.. i put the other three on with no probs.. just needed a gee up.. cheers butane

His day butane, How the bloody hell did you fit the anti rattle clips, did you draw the axles like I am considering doing tomorrow as I have wasted enough time trying to fit these bloody clips

Wassa ( Frederick)

Anth120playdo
15-01-2013, 09:15 PM
Well it appears Repco were wrong when they told me they didn't have them, can get these shoes easy and pretty cheap.
I still have not changed them, I just keep adjusting them :-)
Not scraping metal yet........ Lol...... I slipped another set of rear pads in they only last 30,000klms/ 1 year, almost to metal....
Mud grinds I guess.........

Did I mention I'm supposed to be a brake specialist? Lol..... Really not looking forward to it, never done a Prado handbrake shoe, I'm sure after I finally do I will think what was the fuss about.

butane8
15-01-2013, 09:59 PM
His day butane, How the bloody hell did you fit the anti rattle clips, did you draw the axles like I am considering doing tomorrow as I have wasted enough time trying to fit these bloody clips

Wassa ( Frederick)
Wassa , i've got a terrible memory mate but, I'm pretty sure it was as you are lookin at the pads , spin the axle till the hole is close to 3 oclock ish.. lol..
right thumb and first digit went between the axle and the shoe holding the spring and twist plate in towards the backing plate of brakes.. OK guesture

any of the left over fingers that is in the position go around the back of the plate and hold the pin hard against the backing plate

get comfortable fingers wise fiddle a bit then the pin comes thro the retainer/twist plate... long nose flat pliers grabs the pin thro the axle hole and twist 90 the pliers and pin ... then realease you thumb to allow the retainer to seat properly

have a fiddle poke and prod to insure clip is settled in shoes all good... evan etc,, then change hands and re do opposite handed..
dont stress one side more frustrating than the other but unless you have short fat fingers... relax and it will be easy .. trick is to hold the spring in... compressed so the pin twists easy without and load

hope it helps.. thinking of ya .cheers butane

Anth120playdo
02-02-2013, 09:52 AM
Just picked up the set Repco shoes at Repco retail is $54.99.
I think these are made by brake bonders, which have always been good in the past.

Anth120playdo
12-02-2013, 04:50 PM
I changed the shoes on mine today.
Started at 9am, no swearing, no slipping, very str8 forward if you have experience changing brake shoes - (i hate them anyday)
including all the washing, fussing round, cleaning, relubing, not in a hurry it was done by 12midday.
It was a good experience & I worked out, would charge $300 to do for customers, learning day for me, just a bit more fiddly than some.

You wouldnt want to be in a hurry to do this job.
If you have not changed brake shoes, but are confident and have a LOT of patience, id say give it a go.
if you think it might be a p.i.t.a job, you are correct, if you are not good with patience and trying again, fiddy stuff needing 4 hands, then i would say pay someone to do it.
I remember when my first shoes change when i was a first year apprentice, hated it! still do really.
If this Prado handbrake was my first set, personally id pay someone to do it. (jeez the falcons are easy)

I hope that this might help with your decision if you should d.i.y or not, and what the job should be worth.

I also found 2 clips (1 at each side) at the base of the retainer springs bent, these locate the retainer, i assume they were bent and pulled away from an overextended handbrake, watch out if your handbrake comes up too far.
Sprayed crc up the cable from the bottom to flush the crud out.

good luck ppl.......

butane8
12-02-2013, 08:52 PM
nice d.i.y

anth.. good job ,,,,,,especially the no swearing part
and your timing says you nailed it, hope you make a few few bucks outta doin more, cheers butane

Anth120playdo
12-02-2013, 10:47 PM
Thank you,

Hey on a clean non offroader, I recon after a bit of practise might nail it within the hour.
Remembering I'm fully equipt, hoist, rattle gun etc, and used to all of this.
But that might cause a sweat, so I better not try..... :-)
We used to drop autos out of falcons in 10-15 minutes when we wanted to.

Cheers!

Ken in Cairns
18-02-2013, 04:15 PM
Here is a good link anbout the handbrake, it is for a 90/95 Series, but good info on how to set them up as well.

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/34957-Getting-the-best-from-your-hand-brake

Whitey1
11-01-2014, 04:20 PM
Time to replace my handbrake shoes(150000 km). Easy job, 1 to 2 hours tops, so I thought! Bought a set of Repco ones for $22 trade. The guy behind the counter said "that can't be right.........yep that's the price".
So up on the hoist and had them swapped over in about an hour.
Then the fun started......bloody things would randomly grab and lock up which made it very hard to adjust. Pulled them apart several times to try to figure out what was going on. 4 hours later and I'm still having problems! Arrrgh!!!!! So close to chucking the old ones back on and giving up! Maybe they just need to bed in. So I adjusted them as best I could and drove it home. Left ones a bit hot so I'll have to have another go at adjusting it tomorrow. I'm over it!

Bushbasher
11-01-2014, 06:57 PM
How worn were the old ones? My disc brake pads all still look nice and chunky despite being 5 years old. Must be living in the country that makes them last longer.

Whitey1
11-01-2014, 07:57 PM
How worn were the old ones? My disc brake pads all still look nice and chunky despite being 5 years old. Must be living in the country that makes them last longer.

Hand brake shoes were almost down to the metal on one of them. The main disc brake pads are still fine after 150000 km and 6 years. Most of that is country driving too.

Bushbasher
11-01-2014, 11:19 PM
Hand brake shoes were almost down to the metal on one of them.
So, you're saying that the handbrake is worn out. Would she mind if you got a new one?

jcsmsmith
02-02-2014, 03:10 PM
It sounds like the disk needed to be machined.Our corolla had a problem that was nearly the same as it would grab in reverse.

scottkz
04-02-2014, 11:46 PM
incedently the handbrake spring sets are the same in all toyota 4WDs from about 88 onwards..... iv got to do them on one side in my 90 as something failed and the one side of the shoe fell off... bits were rattling and getting munched up inside the drum! still the shoes are still fine so there just going back on with a new spring set....original shoes got me 280k. but need new rotors drums fine but discs undersize.

i hate drums with a passion! why didnt they just do what mazda did in the 80s and make the handbrake operate the caliper !

Anth120playdo
05-02-2014, 07:34 AM
incedently the handbrake spring sets are the same in all toyota 4WDs from about 88 onwards..... iv got to do them on one side in my 90 as something failed and the one side of the shoe fell off... bits were rattling and getting munched up inside the drum! still the shoes are still fine so there just going back on with a new spring set....original shoes got me 280k. but need new rotors drums fine but discs undersize.

i hate drums with a passion! why didnt they just do what mazda did in the 80s and make the handbrake operate the caliper !

Toyota like other makes did put the handbrake on the calipers on many vehicles.
These have their own problems, some are very hard to retract when changing pads.
They often don't hold well either, it takes a lot more pressure to get the same stopping friction on pads.
So because the vehicle starts heavy, it's likely going to be loaded and have a trailer the manufacturers realise a drum set up is what is required to hold the vehicle. We know even with the drums it can be hard to hold the vehicle at times, but a disc with the same load would have no hope.

I don't like drums either.

Whitey1
05-02-2014, 10:20 AM
I ended up getting my mechanic to fix it. Seems the drums needed machining, the new shoes were catching on a ridge causing them to drag. All good now.

Hommér
25-03-2014, 11:04 AM
Hi' Winnilis,

Your photos will help me to adjust my handbrakes to my 120 series Prado.

Thanks