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mkh
23-05-2008, 08:22 AM
G'day.

Am thinking of doing the oil changes myself and just wondering if anyone else here does it themselves and which oil they could recommend.

The owner manual is pretty general about the oil viscosity to use. My engine has nearly 150,000kms on it. Driving type is almost 50/50 city/highway and most trips are at least 30mins duration so engine always gets to warm up properly.

Cheers, Markus.

Zapper
23-05-2008, 09:15 AM
hi Markus

I have a 2004 v6 approaching 60,000 and I have been using Toyota's 10/30 motor oil and their oil filter. I do mine every 5000 and its quite easy, just don't forget to coat the oil filter gasket with oil before you install and don't over tighten, hand tight is only needed(no oil on gasket and over tighten = hard time getting it off next time).

Zapper

roddy
23-05-2008, 05:25 PM
hi Markus,
I use Caltex Havoline Premium 'Plus', 10W-30
remember to get the sump plug gsk - you would think when buying an oil filter they would suggest to buy the sump plug gskt - but hey - not paid to think.
cheers Rod 8)


G'day.

Am thinking of doing the oil changes myself and just wondering if anyone else here does it themselves and which oil they could recommend.

The owner manual is pretty general about the oil viscosity to use. My engine has nearly 150,000kms on it. Driving type is almost 50/50 city/highway and most trips are at least 30mins duration so engine always gets to warm up properly.

Cheers, Markus.

mkh
23-05-2008, 05:35 PM
Cheers guys. Thanks.

And yes, in the past on previous cars, I've ALWAYS had to ask for the sump plug gasket. Some dealers / service guys even raise their eyebrows as if to say "what? what do you need that for?".

Like you said, they're not usually paid to think... :roll:

Justo
23-05-2008, 06:03 PM
I run Fuchs GTO 10W-30 synthetic and stretch it out to 7-8k oil changes. Is good. :) Everyone has a different opinion on what is good oil though.

awp
03-06-2009, 09:51 AM
well, i was thinking of changing the oil myself too, as other people say it is not hard. went to supercheap yesterday, asking for sump plug gasket, they had no idea what is that. is it a must item?
and also, the dealer says that 10W-40 better on my car. is it true? since most of you here using 10W-30, i was thinking of changing to synthetic oil, but dealer said no good. i am thinking of changing to shell ultra 5W-40 or castrol edge 5W-30 or shell helix plus 10W-40/30. the car has almost reach 100000km
well the car wont be driven for 1 year, as i am going away for 1 year, but my friend will heat the car every week.

roddy
03-06-2009, 10:36 AM
Hi,
yes you must replace sump plug gasket.. There is a chance that the old one will not leak but why risk the cost of 5 litres of oil because of a small part. If you choose not to re-new the gasket and use the old on and it does leak you will need to take plug out again to change over - all your new oil will drain out. Nothing worse than doing the same job twice when it is not needed. Go to your toyota dealer and buy a few of them.
As for oil, well that can be a huge debate.
I myself use Caltex Havoline 'premium plus' 10W-30. It is not a synthetic but does have the latest SM rating.
The !0W is for good flow on cold start up. Since the latest engines have very fine tolerances most are now recommending a 30 grade for better flow once hot on the high viscocity side.
The highest oil grade now has a rating of 'SM'. A 30 grade SM oil will carry the load and heat stress with a very very thin oil film and greater flows through fine tolerences.
Once you go thicker, eg 20W-50 etc, the oil is really too think for the fine tolerences of todays engines - hence older cars are suggested to use 15W-50, 20W-50 etc.
As for synthetic, well i think as long as the oil has the highest rating, ie 'SM' i see no real reason on spending the extra.
I only do 10,000km a year, so i change oil every 5,000km or 6 months, but hey, thats just me. AND always change the filter too.
If your friend is left with the car, just get him too start car, let it warm up and do a lap around the block. This way it is hot and also gets the revs up a little while driving, not just sitting idling.
all the best, cheers, Rod



well, i was thinking of changing the oil myself too, as other people say it is not hard. went to supercheap yesterday, asking for sump plug gasket, they had no idea what is that. is it a must item?
and also, the dealer says that 10W-40 better on my car. is it true? since most of you here using 10W-30, i was thinking of changing to synthetic oil, but dealer said no good. i am thinking of changing to shell ultra 5W-40 or castrol edge 5W-30 or shell helix plus 10W-40/30. the car has almost reach 100000km
well the car wont be driven for 1 year, as i am going away for 1 year, but my friend will heat the car every week.

awp
03-06-2009, 01:35 PM
thank for your reply.

with the sump plug gasket, i will definitely get one from toyota dealer. about the oil, most of you here using 10W-30, but my dealer always use 10W-40. what is the advantage if i change to 10W-30?

i can only find castrol magnatec 10W-40, shell helix plus 10W-40, shell helix plus eco 10W-30 from my local kmart, as this is the closest one to me.
castrol have API SM, not sure about the shell, as the website doesn't tell

Almost forgot, is it easy to find the oil drain plug?

oldsalt
03-06-2009, 02:32 PM
thank for your reply.

with the sump plug gasket, i will definitely get one from toyota dealer.

Almost forgot, is it easy to find the oil drain plug?

I have installed one of these and hassles with oil changes are now history.

It is very well engineered and very secure, worth every dollar.

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_The-Fumo ... ticle.html (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_The-Fumoto-Engine-Oil-Drain-Valve/A_2029/article.html)

http://us1.webpublications.com.au/static/images/articles/featurepics/2029.jpg

roddy
03-06-2009, 07:23 PM
hi,
i buy and get my oil delivered via post/courier from www.lubesonline.com.au (http://www.lubesonline.com.au)
Ask them for a price delivered to your door ... might be worth it.
cheers, rod


thank for your reply.

with the sump plug gasket, i will definitely get one from toyota dealer. about the oil, most of you here using 10W-30, but my dealer always use 10W-40. what is the advantage if i change to 10W-30?

i can only find castrol magnatec 10W-40, shell helix plus 10W-40, shell helix plus eco 10W-30 from my local kmart, as this is the closest one to me.
castrol have API SM, not sure about the shell, as the website doesn't tell

Almost forgot, is it easy to find the oil drain plug?

Bryan120
10-06-2009, 05:47 PM
I my opinion 10W30 oils are not up to the challenge of high ambient temps. SAE 30 is only able to withstand temps up to 35 degree C. I cant comment on your climate but Im sure its hotter there than here. Hence anything below SAE 40 is no good. The reason why manufacturers are using 5w30's in these bigger engines is not just tolerances but its in order to meet fuel consumption and emissions requirements. In the states I believe they using 0w20 oils in the engines and its noted engine life is dramatically reduced.

For the best oil for your Prado you want something that flows quickly when the engine is cold and something that can handle the heat when the engine is warm.
Techincally speaking the lower the winter rating and the higher the summer the better the oil. i.e a 5w60 is best ( however it will come at a price$$$) I changed my 2004 Hilux 2.7i from Magnetic 10W40 to 5w40 fully synthetic, the difference was felt in the mornings, the vehicle ran smoother when cold and even when starting it when cold the engine felt as if it was warm already. A low winter rating is essential as most wear occurs when the engine is cold.

I later decided to change to 10W60 fully synthetic as we get temps up to 45 deg+ C here and the vehicle performed flawlessly. So in my opinion if you need to change your own oil stick to a 10W60 Fully sythetic. The prado V6 is a big engine so it needs some decent lubrication.

BTW I recorded no difference in fuel ecomomy from 10w40 to 10w60.

don1
14-06-2009, 07:23 PM
i do oil and filter, with every 5000k interval...using mobil 1 5w-30...seems to run smoother.

RustyTruck
18-07-2009, 09:21 AM
Just about to change my oil to 5W-40 Valvoline SYN Power Full Synthetic.

Specs are: SAE 5W-40 API SM/CF. In the manual is details to use 'API grade SJ or SL'.

Can anyone tell me the difference between SM/CF and SJ/SL??

And has anyone else used this oil before?

Greatly appreciated, thanks.

gxl_d4d
18-07-2009, 10:52 AM
SM is the latest API oil spec and is supposed to be fully backward compatible with previous API ratings.

If you want to buy oil in 20L drums, you can typically get havoline fully synthetic 5w40 for $130/drum.

RustyTruck
18-07-2009, 11:10 AM
Thanks for that mate.

The oil capacity with filter is 5.2L right?

I have put 5L in, started the car then let it sit for a minute and its reading way over the full mark on the dipstick.

I have changed the oil on every car I have had, but this has me worried. IT IS 5.2 LITRES ISNT IT?

19-04-2010, 03:59 PM
SM is the latest API oil spec and is supposed to be fully backward compatible with previous API ratings.

If you want to buy oil in 20L drums, you can typically get havoline fully synthetic 5w40 for $130/drum.

Digging up and old post here, but where are you finding Havoline 5W 40 Synthetic oil for $130 per 20l drum??

fishfinder
22-04-2010, 11:13 AM
Valvoline Enigne Armour 10w-30 , I have allways used Valvoline and never had an issue .
The old Jackaroo I use to own ( yep I am now on pescribed medication for being insane ) I still service it and it is now pushing 525 000 km and still strong , its a huge effort for a 2.3ltr petrol , and now pulling horse floats , but all its life I have used valvoline in it .

Offroader
22-04-2010, 08:02 PM
fishfinder-

You can't argue with 500, 000 + kays. Good stuff mate. I hope I can get that sort of milage out of the Prado!
Do you use the 10w-30 in the old jack or a heavier grade to reduce oil consumption? I think I'll go for a 5w-40 on the V6 Prado like Shell Helix Ultra.

tinkera
22-04-2010, 08:26 PM
HI ALL After looking at different oils ,prices I went back and bought toyota oil and filter most places said PENRITE but it was dearer than TOYOTA .Then you had to buy 10lt,s to cover the oil change :evil: so I decieded to buy TOYOTA.CHEERS TINKERA.

gxl_d4d
25-04-2010, 07:30 AM
Stirrer,

I get the oil from South East Queensland Fuels. They're a Caltex Distributor here in Brisbane.

don1
25-04-2010, 08:47 PM
hi

has anyone tried using Castrol edge 0w-30 fully synthetic? i used to use Mobil 1 5w-30..but this Castrol egde is making a difference the way the engine sounds, a lot quieter..only concern is the Castrol edge 0w-30 is too thin..

thanks
lyndon

don1
30-04-2010, 08:27 PM
hi

has anyone tried using Castrol edge 0w-30 fully synthetic? i used to use Mobil 1 5w-30..but this Castrol egde is making a difference the way the engine sounds, a lot quieter..only concern is the Castrol edge 0w-30 is too thin..

thanks
lyndon

sorry above info was wrong..had a look at the drum today and it is actually castrol longtec 0w-30..
might drain it tomorrow and fill it up with castrol edge 5w-30 then compare the difference..

don

Offroader
02-05-2010, 09:13 PM
don1-

The 0w-30 will have the same "thickness" as the 5w-30 during normal engine operating temperatures. The primary difference is the cold or start-up viscosity of the 2 oils. The 0w-30 will have better flow characteristics during a cold start-up than a heavier base weight oil such as a 10w-30 for example. As most engine wear occurs during start-up due to restricted oil flow, the 0w-30 should provide better lubrication during that critical period, especially if you operate the vehicle in a colder climate.

fishfinder
03-05-2010, 01:23 PM
fishfinder-

You can't argue with 500, 000 + kays. Good stuff mate. I hope I can get that sort of milage out of the Prado!
Do you use the 10w-30 in the old jack or a heavier grade to reduce oil consumption? I think I'll go for a 5w-40 on the V6 Prado like Shell Helix Ultra.
Yes I get the old bloke I sold it to to continue with Valvoline and he gets a 20w 60 stops the old girl rattleing

don1
04-05-2010, 09:25 PM
thanks offroader

in that case i will continue using the 0w-30 for winter and switch back into 5w-30 before summer approaches..i tried the castrol edge sport 5w-30 for a month and switch back to mobil 1 5w-30 and i didnt noticed any difference at all!!just considering the price of castrol is only half of the mobil1..i think using 0w-30 for a low mileage engine is good for the prado..

don

timmy
29-07-2010, 08:27 PM
I changed my oil recently and didn't notice any sump gasket. I did the change without one and no problems..........yet Used Magnatec oil

Offroader
03-08-2010, 09:06 AM
timmy-

I changed my oil recently and didn't notice any sump gasket. I did the change without one and no problems..........yet Used Magnatec oil

Sometimes the gasket can get stuck to the sump and it's easy to miss if you're in a hurry. If the gasket is missing, it would be wise to replace it as soon as practical. Yes, the sump plug will usually seal without it, but for the sake of some loose change you can prevent a potential oil leak or worse, an empty oil sump. Pop into a Toyota dealer and buy a pack of ten, they are about $1.50 each from memory.

timmy
03-08-2010, 06:25 PM
Sometimes the gasket can get stuck to the sump and it's easy to miss if you're in a hurry. If the gasket is missing, it would be wise to replace it as soon as practical. Yes, the sump plug will usually seal without it, but for the sake of some loose change you can prevent a potential oil leak or worse, an empty oil sump. Pop into a Toyota dealer and buy a pack of ten, they are about $1.50 each from memory.
Thanks, I will grab a packet. I reckon the last service didn't use one.

hassro
18-12-2010, 10:08 PM
I just had a 180K Service done by local garage and checking tonight see that they have used a 20/50 Valvoline XLD PLus. What are peoples thoughs on this as I really dont want to go through replacing the oil. Will I have issues running this over the next 6months should complete about 5000km in that time and then replace with the correct oil?


Cheers

Rolf

meminiau
27-12-2010, 07:43 PM
I just had a 180K Service done by local garage and checking tonight see that they have used a 20/50 Valvoline XLD PLus. What are peoples thoughs on this as I really dont want to go through replacing the oil. Will I have issues running this over the next 6months should complete about 5000km in that time and then replace with the correct oil?


Cheers

Rolf


Saw this post a while ago.... didn't reply coz I hoped someone with a bit more knowledge might chime in.... anyways

I reckon that might be a bit thick. I'm running 10-30. Just my 2 cents :-)

hassro
27-12-2010, 08:51 PM
That's what Im thinking as well but as I am going for a drive to Qld and will be doing high k's each day was wondering if I will get away with leaving until I return then replace with a 10-40 oil. thanks for your thoughs this is what I think i will do anyway.

meminiau
28-12-2010, 08:57 AM
That's what Im thinking as well but as I am going for a drive to Qld and will be doing high k's each day was wondering if I will get away with leaving until I return then replace with a 10-40 oil. thanks for your thoughs this is what I think i will do anyway.

I just drove from Newcastle to QLD using 10-30. Did't use a drop of oil and fuel economy was great. Also did a few kms while up there. With the price of oil pretty low, I would change your oil before going. I had just bought my car and didn't know what oil was in it, and thought it best to know before travelling so many kms.

Simmo67
29-12-2010, 07:33 AM
I have just bought a 20 Litre drum of BP Vanellus Multifleet 15W - 40, $108 at BP depots.

I have bought this oil as it is the one my regular mechanic uses and I'm going to change the oil myself every 5000km, and get my mechanic to do the regular 10 000k services. I thought I should keep it consistent and use the same oil my mechanic (and the local Toyota dealership) happen to use.

Probably a stupid question, but I have never used such a big drum of oil before :shock: . Just wondering if anyone has any tips ? I am wondering the best way to measure 7 Litres out, and then get it into the engine without spilling too much :oops:

I am thinking of using an old but clean 5 Litre oil container as a measure, putting in 4 litres at first, then a further 3 Litres from the big drum ? I realise this may sound like a stupid question but I am sure someone out there has a great little trick they use when handling those big 20 Litre drums? Actually it may not be that stupid a question, I was in Autobarn yesterday getting some Z334 filters and I asked the owner what the second grey plastic openining was on the top of the drum (see pic below) and he didn't know (I think it may be a pouring spout inside but I have no idea how to make it pop out)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j91/Simmo67/SDC15217.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j91/Simmo67/SDC15216.jpg

Simmo67
29-12-2010, 07:59 AM
Well that was easy...

You simply pull out the grey plastic circle and it's a convenient pourer. This should make things easier.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j91/Simmo67/SDC15221.jpg

gxl_d4d
30-12-2010, 05:20 AM
Using the plastic spout is messy. If you're going to continue using 20L drums, I'd highly recommend a drum pump. They're around $40 from memory. You occasionally see them at supercheap and autobarn. If all else fails, the place that sold you the oil should be able to order one in for you.

Fozzy
30-12-2010, 07:27 AM
I second the drum pump. Autobarn have them for sure.

It just screws onto the filler cap and you can meter the oil out into one of the wifes measuring jugs to get the proscribed amount. One tip though - make sure she's not around while this is happening.

Cheers,

Dave

Simmo67
30-12-2010, 08:08 PM
Holy Shit :shock:

Just tried to pour oil out of that 20 Litre drum. That is friggin ridiculous :roll:

Yep, I'll go the drum pump - thanks for the tip fellas :D

(my first intermediate oil change is done however - I feel all warm and fuzzy inside)

pradogang
03-02-2011, 01:28 PM
Just did my first DIY oil change and yes the sump plug didn't have a gasket. Popped down to the local Toyota dealer at Cleveland to pick one up and he gave me one for free. That's a first from Toyota for me! :D :D

matt150
12-06-2011, 03:18 PM
I just switched to Penrite HPR10 (Semi-synthetic) 10W-50.

Seems to abit better on the road, alittle quieter at start up too.

1coolbanana
12-06-2011, 04:23 PM
Ive switched the Prado V6 to full synthetic everything. (includes diffs and transfer)
New to me and dont know its history so best to change everything.
Always been a fan of full synthetic and use it on everything, bikes cars, machinery, whatever.
Im using Nulon 10W40 for the Prado and it comes in a handy 6 litre size at SCA.

Derb
14-06-2011, 07:29 AM
Hi Fellas. Simple and cheaper option for convenient pouring. Buy a plastic reducer to fit into the large threaded hole. Screw in a plastic drum tap as per those fitted to 20 litre water containers. Place the drum on it's side on a stand or convenient bench or what have you (it aint rocket science) with tap to the bottom and use old 5 litre oil tubs to fill the engine. Just open the smaller pourer bung every now and then to relieve the vacumn when pouring into your 5 litre tub. Fatueze. Cheers.

barkern
22-07-2011, 12:25 PM
I have installed one of these and hassles with oil changes are now history.

It is very well engineered and very secure, worth every dollar.

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_The-Fumo ... ticle.html (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_The-Fumoto-Engine-Oil-Drain-Valve/A_2029/article.html)

http://us1.webpublications.com.au/static/images/articles/featurepics/2029.jpg

Hey what size did you get and will it be the same for the diesel? does anybody know?

amts
22-07-2011, 01:32 PM
F-103 series. Sump plug is M12x1.25pitch for both V6 and diesels. I checked on toyodiy and the part numbers are the same 12101A for the sump plug.

I got mine from here http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?15519-Fumoto-Engine-Oil-Drain-Valve-(possible-group-buy)

barkern
22-07-2011, 03:03 PM
Thanks amts! just ordered one. if im supposed to be changing the oil every 5000kms this will be a godsend!

Shan
21-09-2011, 03:39 PM
Ive switched the Prado V6 to full synthetic everything. (includes diffs and transfer)
New to me and dont know its history so best to change everything.
Always been a fan of full synthetic and use it on everything, bikes cars, machinery, whatever.
Im using Nulon 10W40 for the Prado and it comes in a handy 6 litre size at SCA.
Hey Marc, I'm thinking of doing the same. Could you tell me which oils you used and how many Ltrs from each I need ?
Also if that's alright which spark plugs you are using?
I'm planning to do the 150,000 service and like to arrange everything before I go to my Local mechanic...

1coolbanana
21-09-2011, 04:34 PM
Hey Marc, I'm thinking of doing the same. Could you tell me which oils you used and how many Ltrs from each I need ?
Also if that's alright which spark plugs you are using?
I'm planning to do the 150,000 service and like to arrange everything before I go to my Local mechanic...

Hi Shan
Oils I used are:
Nulon 10/40 Synth Engine
Transfer and diffs is all the same:
Nulon75-90 Synth Smooth Shift Gear and Transaxle Oil
Quantities I cant remember atm but are straight out of the handbook in your glovebox.
Auto trans was done by the transmission place up the road, 2 litres of oil and $120.
Spark plugs I havent changed yet.

This only applies to my petrol Grande, I dont know what youve got and it may vary.
Cheers

timmay5.7
21-09-2011, 04:53 PM
Auto trans was done by the transmission place up the road, 2 litres of oil and $120.
Spark plugs I havent changed yet.

This only applies to my petrol Grande, I dont know what youve got and it may vary.
Cheers
One thing I would advise checking, I had redline synthetic put into my auto box.
You shouldn't mix oils - especially mineral and syntheic. I used a fair bit more than 2l (I think closer to 13) to completely flush the auto box AND torque converter.

Shan
22-09-2011, 12:20 PM
Thanks for your input guys... thinking of doing the service next week. :)

krypto
22-09-2011, 12:52 PM
I like the look of the oil drain valve. I thought I might add some info on the down side of changing oil too frequently.

A few years as a plant maintenance engineer I got to work with a guy who was an expert in lubrication and oils. He did a lot of work looking at heavy equipment and in particular dump trucks on the mines. The reason for this was to see if they could reduce the down time on the equipment and also to improve reliability.

Through a long study using oil sampling he found that the oil was being changed far too frequently when following the manufacturer’s recommendations. What amazed me were his findings on the cleanliness of oil straight out of the drum/container. He found that the oil initially had a higher level of particles that came from the oil manufacture, storage and transfer process. These impurities were filtered out in the first few hours of use in an engine, also during this time the filter actually 'clogged' up slightly and let through smaller particles.

The upshot of this is that overly frequent oil changes do nothing for the engine and may cause additional wear, and after a lot of negotiation he was able to convince the manufacturer to lengthen the oil change interval without losing warranty. Oil sampling at our site confirmed his findings.

The proviso is that these heavy equipment engines are kept at operating temperatures for long periods of time, unlike car engines which tend to cycle far more frequently and hence the oil doesn't breakdown and lose its properties as quickly.

The other lesson which I applied to all my fixed plant was that breathers are a primary source of dirt into the systems, which means that it's important to make sure all breathers are filtered to the same standards as the oil.

So dark oil is not necessarily a sign of oil losing its properties, but of the oil doing its job. The metal particles and other debris that can cause real damage don’t give the oil a dark colour, the dark colour comes from combustion by-products which are generally small and relatively harmless. Changing oil too frequently may introduce more of the damaging particles and do more damage than changing to schedule.


Below is something I found on the internet


The Dark Oil Myth
Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil pan.

The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. Since most people don't want to bother with this, it's acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service. There are still a few cars that specify 3K intervals for severe service, but not many. If you look at countries other than the U.S., the oil recommended change interval is much higher than even the normal interval specified by vehicle manufacturers in the U.S

Bidla
22-09-2011, 01:10 PM
Wow Krypto! Here I was thinking that I was doing my engine a favour by dumping the oil every 5,000klms! What were your mates recommendation on filter replacements?

krypto
22-09-2011, 01:30 PM
Wow Krypto! Here I was thinking that I was doing my engine a favour by dumping the oil every 5,000klms! What were your mates recommendation on filter replacements?

I can't remember, but I change the filter with the oil. I notice that some manufacturers change the filter every 2nd oil change.

I forgot to mention, regardless of how often you change oil if you use funnels or fillers they must be squeaky clean. I often see funnels and filler tubes left in the open, particularly at workshops. It only takes a short while for dust to get into the fillers and from there it goes straight into the engine the next time its used.

I'm sure some people will strongly disagree with this, I know my mechanic strongly disagrees, but I saw the oil sample results myself.

I've never changed oil more than every 10000km on my cars and never had any wear issues. I generally change my cars at around 200k, but I'm planning to keep the 150 longer than that.

Shan
22-09-2011, 01:42 PM
Interesting info Krypto !!! It's a shame that even qualified mechanics do advice everyone that changing oil frequently would help the engine of the cars...
As you mentioned just wondering whether this is true only for engines that runs almost non-stop.

krypto
22-09-2011, 02:00 PM
I have some good mates who I rate very highly as mechanics, but a lot of the stuff is done just because its always been done that way. Oils and lubricants have come a long way.

A good check next time you take your car in for a service is to have a look how the oils are handled, are drums left open and fillers not sealed. If an oil tap is in the open and is left it accumulates dirt. Often the workshops transfer oil between drums before it gets to your car, is this done cleanly? This will give you an idea of whether the mechanic really understands oils and lubricants.

When you think about the cost of oils and the trouble we go to, its amazing to see how poorly oil is often handled. I think of oil like the blood of an engine and it needs to treated accordingly, hydraulic systems are the same. After the initial run in period most failures in hydraulic systems happen because dirt gets into the system through breathers or when hoses are changed.

Whatever
01-08-2012, 09:20 AM
I have installed one of these and hassles with oil changes are now history.

It is very well engineered and very secure, worth every dollar.

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_The-Fumo ... ticle.html (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_The-Fumoto-Engine-Oil-Drain-Valve/A_2029/article.html)

http://us1.webpublications.com.au/static/images/articles/featurepics/2029.jpg

Where did you buy one of these and does it open while off road if something hits it thanks pm me please thanks corey

wooley
01-08-2012, 10:19 AM
Where did you buy one of these and does it open while off road if something hits it thanks pm me please thanks corey

Search fumoto Australia and buy through them. Next day delivery and 5% off at the moment. F103 is the part number.

bh2905
01-03-2013, 07:44 PM
just about to do an oil change on v6 120 which has 235,000 on the clock and im just wondering what viscosity and what brands of oil everyone is using was using nulon full syn 15w 50 but not sure if i should trying something else as it the engine is a bit nosier than before

Auss15
01-03-2013, 08:26 PM
Iv'e been using the Nulon in all my vehicles and have been very happy with the engine running and performance.

When you say nosier, is that on start up or running.

15w 50w is a heavier oil so maybe on cold start it will be a bit nosier, I use 10w 40w in my Prado with 175Ks on the speedo

bh2905
01-03-2013, 08:41 PM
it is a little bit more tappety than before i was using the 10w40 syn and its what im thinkng i might go back to but i would love to hear what others r using and what is working for them

Steve M
01-03-2013, 09:24 PM
I was using magnatec but am now using the genuine Toyota VVTI oil in both my Toyota's. I used full synthetic once before in my commodore and found the engine to be so bloody tappety, (we bought the commodore new and was quit before I changed oil) thinking I was doing the write thing using synthetic would increase engine life and be good internally. I was told not to use synthetic as the commodore had roller rockers (from the factory) and they do not like synthetic oil. I went back to normal mineral oil and the engine was so much quitter. Now funny thing is HSV recommend only synthetic and they use the same roller rockers ??? Might explain why the 5.7L engines at the time were so bloody rattly, they were shocking...........I personally think the 15/50 is way to thick for a VVTI engine. 10/30 would be more the better choice...........Cheers Steve

8608
02-03-2013, 12:45 AM
Maybe a little different living up here.

I use titan ultra lube 15/40 by fuchs. Running this since 1000km old.

That's fuchs as in chooks and not fuchs as in ducks.

wes_614
06-11-2013, 11:32 AM
204,000km 1GR-FE
Castrol Edge Titanium 0W-40 (Engine)
Castrol Syntrax 80W-140 (Front & Rear Diff)
Castrol Syntrax Universal Plus 75W-90 (Transfer Case)