View Full Version : Invertor wire up and purchase questions ?
28-02-2008, 11:56 AM
Inverter size depends on the max watt usage of appliances you are planning on running.. I got Powertech 400W (1200W peak) inventor from eBay (the same one as they sell in the Jay Car) it is enough for kids to watch DVD player (similar power to laptop), run laptop, and charge Video
camera batteries at the same time...
Most inverters (like the one I got already come with the fuse as part of the wiring, the wiring should be similar size as use use for your dual batteries/fridge (6mm+ NOT the auto grade)
28-02-2008, 12:03 PM
Electric toaster and specially kettle need more than 1000W power, so inverter would cost ya well over $1000, better get a proper camping gas stove :lol: :lol: :lol:
28-02-2008, 12:17 PM
generally anything with a heater elememt will have a large current draw, you need to work out how many watts the appliance you gonna run is than get something a little biggger to give you some leeway.
28-02-2008, 03:48 PM
Mine is mounted (just lies on the floor) under front passenger seat.
That way you got control to turn it on/off, charge batteries etc from the
drivers seat... Just make sure it is switched off when not in use as
it is draws a bit of power sitting idle...
28-02-2008, 03:59 PM
With things auto electrical I would call Derek frm ABR Sidewinder, he sells alot on Ebay and the quality is top shelf, without being over the top on price. I bought my dual Battery set up for the camper through him. Have a look at this one;
28-02-2008, 04:24 PM
Derek's one should be OK, but if you decide to fit it
under front seat make sure that it is small enough to fit:
This is the link to the same as I got:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... &SUBCATID= (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MI5106&CATID=&keywords=inverter&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=)
28-02-2008, 04:49 PM
I run a 600 watt jobby and I got one of those old fashioned speedy electric toasters (the ones with the single slice one door per side)
from memory its only about 500 watts. Works like a dream.
If I had seen those ones from Derek I would have bought one at that price, I paid $250 for mine. In the old days you used to pay $100 per 100 watts, so a 600 watt inverter used to cost around $600 bucks. Dereks looks the goods.
Just one thing about the install........ Be very careful where you put it. Dust is a killer, and they like to be cool. They dont like terminals being crossed..... can go BANG bigtime........ Try to find a spot under the bonnet to bolt it in. :wink:
28-02-2008, 09:11 PM
Mine is a 1000watt continuous, didnt cost anywhere near $ 1000 though, it is also pure sine wave, from memory around $ 300 ish, off one of our suppliers we deal with. It can run a bar heater ! as long as you dont turn both elements on :oops: It is pulling some ludicrus amount of DC current at 1000 watts though, 90 odd amps from memory, must have very large cable and biig circuit breaker.
28-02-2008, 09:33 PM
Just a tip, if you are considering running delicate electrical equipment such as laptops then it is advisable that you purchase an inverter that produces pure sinewave as opposed to the modified sinewave. The cheaper units are generally modified sinewave and you can cause damage to your laptop from the outputs of these units. I have a pure sinewave inverter which is a 500W unit peaking at 1000W. It's been great and I have occassionally carried an extension cord to power things outside the truck whilst we've been away. I've installed mine under the front passanger seat and it's been there for the past 3 years. I love my gadgets.
just make sure "err indors" doesnt think she can run a hairdrier off it .... mine just bought a new one ...2500w :!: :!: her last was 2000w which she tripped the house rcd with :shock: not very outback friendly bits of gear .
Would this be okay, to just charge up camera batteries on our trip away ?
I will save up and sort out a bigger on in the future. I plan to wire it directly to my 2nd battery.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12V-DC-to-230v-A ... dZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12V-DC-to-230v-AC-Power-Inverter-Great-for-Camping_W0QQitemZ120229050628QQihZ002QQcategoryZ30 862QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)
Yep that would do the job, what kind of batteries are they?
No idea mav,
Just my new Cannon digital camera batteries.
Are they for a Canon DSLR or a point and shoot. Canon usually allow AA's to be used if you are in a pinch. Even my Canon 40D will allow AA's to be used with the adaptor for them.
If they are AA's then there is a new 12V AA battery charger available that my mate was telling me about at Xmas. He offered to give me one but we kind of forgot all about it due to amber liquid consumption.
This is not the one my mate was talking about but it would do the trick I reckon:
06-03-2008, 03:31 AM
Just install a similiar set up to waht I have done to run my fridge... Circuit breaker from Jaycar (I installed a dual one and can run to accesory plugs off it) and 4 gauge wiring and you should be fine. Just give the Inverter plenty of air to breathe as they get pretty hot under load.
P.S. Click my dual battery link below to see the circuit breaker etc.
18-03-2008, 10:03 PM
The input (12v) is electrically isolated from the output (240 V). The earth pin of the 240 volt socket is therefore connected to the case of the inverter. You need to connect the inverter earth to the chassis to provide electrical safety in the event the 240 volt appliance plugged into the inverter fails to earth (the chassis) and raises the car chassis to 240 V. This Earth conductor normally does not carry any current, unlike the negative wire connected to the chassis to power the inverter which will carry around 28 amps at full load.
19-03-2008, 02:27 PM
What size cable are you planning to use?
The earth cable may need to carry substantial current for the delay period before the fault current limiter/s (internal current limiting, fuse, circuit breaker or the like) operates either on the 12V side or 240 side of the inverter.
Your unit can delivery 1000 watts on surge, so your earthing cable needs to handle at least 5 amps as you are only concerned about faults on the 240 v side of the inverter. The earth lead should be relative short in length to insure prompt activation of the protection device/s. If you have spare cable left over, make it the same size as the negative input cable.
Clearly the 12v supply cable should be sized to provide a current path for a 12v earth fault.
Having said all that, if you mount the inverter to the chassis there would be no need for an earthing cable.
26-03-2008, 09:48 PM
I bought a 15owatt (peak 300 watt) cheapie from supercheap and I run my CPAP machine in the camper trailer no problems and it charges all of my batteries ok and runs the kids DVD player. I use a dedicated laptop adaptor that plugs into the cigarette lighter, only cost me about $75.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.2 Copyright © 2014 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.