Hi fellows. Ive just learned that I need to become David Copperfield to replace the rear shocks,more so the left one.Hows this for an idea?What say I purchase 2 gromets for the 120series cut 2 holes in my 90 series,remove the shocks then replace them and fit my new gromets. Can this be done ? Has anybody out there done this? If so please reply.Stay tuned fellows Ill let you know how I went. :idea: If your not sure what im on about here,read the 90series suspension forum as it is what gave me the idea..
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Left rear shock.
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I have heard of that being done
the other thing ive heard was places that do prados reguly have a spanner bent at 90deg to get to them
I got mine done at a suspension place, the time it would have taken me would have been worth alot more than the fitting fee.Glenn
2012 GX TD 150 with long mudflaps - [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?23370-Yota-s-150[/url]
1996 GXL TD 95 with no mudflaps (sold) - [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?12402-My-Truck-quot-Build-Up-quot[/url]
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It's no so difficult
It is not the easiest thing on earth -that would be replacement for 120 rear shocks-, but is possible for anyone with some patience.
First
Take the bottom screws of the shocks -no major issue there-
Second
Use a wrench that is already bended(I believe is called a bucket wrench)
Third
Pass it between the body and the frame of the vehicle and hold the top bolt with it -you might find some cables, pipes, exhaust line, etc, but is ok, just lean under the car from the rear, looking upwards and you will find the correct position and the way to put the wrench in the adecuate situation so it will almost lock by itshelf...
Fith
Either with someone help by hand, or if you have a pipe wrench on your own, use one hand to hold each wrench. start movin the shock counterclock wise until it unbolts by itshelf.
be aware that if you try to unbolt the top bolt, most likely you will damage it... and you will be in deep trouble then.
Sixth
Pray on hope that the top bolt is not to rusted... you can clean the area of the bolt beforehand with a really small screw driver, moving it around trough the draining hole of the frame...KZJ95L + KDJ120 w/TTE power kit + LR 88 1959...sorry!
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Not real good pictures I know but I got these off the old 90's Cool Yahoo forum. They show a home made tool used to remove the upper nut on the left hand shock.
Another poor bit of design by Toyota is the bracket that holds the upper shock in place, its cupped shaped so mud and rocks collect in it.
There is a small drainage hole, but if that gets blocked all the crap sits there and rusts up the nut, making it even more difficult to remove.
I always try and direct a jet of water between the chassis rail and body to clean out any debris when I've been off road.
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LEFT REAR SHOCK
Hi fellows.My bright idea of cutting holes in the floor pan and installing grometts to replace the rear shocks has failed as was predicted by Trojan. The problems in doing this are listed in his posted reply above. Further more the 120 series is mutch the same,I recomend making a tool similar to the ones pictured above as I finally did;Give the shaft thread a good soak of WD40 and have a good set of stillsons handy. You will also need a relaxed frame of mind to complete the task,and to maintain that relaxed frame of mind have some cold beer handy,this was the only part of the project that I enjoyed.What were they thinking when they designed that...... :shock:
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Prado 90 series L/H rear shock absorber nut
Would you be interested in selling / renting me that home made tool?
Cheers
Nigel
Originally posted by Rainman View PostNot real good pictures I know but I got these off the old 90's Cool Yahoo forum. They show a home made tool used to remove the upper nut on the left hand shock.
Another poor bit of design by Toyota is the bracket that holds the upper shock in place, its cupped shaped so mud and rocks collect in it.
There is a small drainage hole, but if that gets blocked all the crap sits there and rusts up the nut, making it even more difficult to remove.
I always try and direct a jet of water between the chassis rail and body to clean out any debris when I've been off road.
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Not sure why it failed ?? This is how my 90 was done (second one I had). The first one was a prick of a job but could be done, the second 90 had traction and stability control which meant there was another brake line running to the rear write dead smack in line with where is the only possible place to get the spanner in to remove the top nut, so a hole was drilled (passengers side only) into the rear floor in the cargo area directly above the nut for the shock. You could just pull the grommet out (which I installed after the shitty grommet they tried to put in bodgy crap they installed) and you could use a normal socket with an extension straight down on top of the nut, 2 minute job to remove the grommet and nut... Sorry never took any pics of it when I had it, plenty of other pics of other things...............Cheers SteveFace lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet
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Hi guys.
We are faced with this same problem when we do the rear shocks too.
One of the boys here cut up & reshaped a couple of spanners a few years ago so we had some that fitted.
Recently when we did my own car we tried this swivel ratchet spanner below & it worked a treat.
Upon re-installation on ours, the Bilsteins use a 17mm top nut & the 17mm Ratchet spanner just fitted up there also.
Mine is the pain in the butt Grande with the extra line in the way also.
Regards, Jason.
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difficult but it can be done by one person
Hi, this is my first reply on the forum, so I hope this makes sense. Just wanted to let others know what worked for me.
I just finished changing the front and rear suspension on my KZJ95 in the garage at home. I left the rear shocks till last knowing what a problem they would be.
After reading all of your input I decided to go with an adjustable head ratchet spanner for the top nut on the rear shocks (14mm). I found it much easier (after failing the first attempt) to do this job with one wheel off at a time and leave the bottom of the shock still attached.
After contorting myself under the vehicle and getting the spanner onto the top nut, turning the top of the shock a little I was able to wedge the spanner in place and turn the top of the shock from outside the vehicle. Once the spanner is wedged in place the shock turns and undoes the nut with ease.
The right was certainly much easier than the left. But this can be done safely at home with the right tools and a clear mind, and a lot of patience. It certainly helped having the children out of the house for half the day.
Cheers,
Macka 75
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