View Full Version : IPF 900XS New Install
16-10-2007, 07:27 PM
Having a set of IPF 900XS spots installed tomorrow. Have been chasing up a switch for the install to go on the panel near the ignition (thanks TP).
Anyhow I confirmed the time with the shop this afternoon and told them that I wanted to install an independent switch instead of the little mouse style that they provide.
Was told that a genuine toyota switch will not work! That the IPF wiring loom will only work with the mouse switch............
What say you guys, is it a case of too hard or cant be bothered. Trouble is the kits are scarce and I have already put a deposit down.
Here is a picture of the wiring loom and "mouse switch"
As a backup until I could source a possible genuine toyota I picked this up today:
Would prefer at least installing this.
16-10-2007, 07:45 PM
I would imagine that they are talking crap and dont want to integrate the switch you want. Looking at the loom there is no electronics boxes or any thing that may prevent another switch being used.
16-10-2007, 07:52 PM
I can see no reason why a standard 12V light cannot be operated by any type of on / off switch ... but then I don't have a great deal of experience with IPF's. There doesn't appear to be any electrickery in the pic that would require a specific switch.
16-10-2007, 08:04 PM
I also didn't like the mouse switch, and installed an illuminated rocker switch, with no problems at all.
16-10-2007, 08:34 PM
As a backup until I could source a possible genuine toyota I picked this up today:
Excellent idea - also have them going in on Thur...
Qn: what brand of switch is that? when did you source it (model #?) ? Cost?
Also do you know if this switch is a perfect fit for the blanks in there or does something need to be ground / timmed for it to fit?
16-10-2007, 08:40 PM
You can order a fog light switch i believe which comes of a LC in the states that is a perfect fit and matches the other switches.
You can order them through toyota i think, a search will find some answers.
16-10-2007, 09:06 PM
I cant see why they cant re-wire the switch for you.
I have a small switch on the dash for my Lightforce 170's, however i dont like the way the auto sparky fitted the switch - and now i am trying to find a illuminated swicth like the one in the pic - that is 'made to fit' the panel. The one that i have - moves around to much - as he had to 'bore' out the clips (that keep it mounted in the panel) and therefore the switch moves around after a few km's of bumpy road... :(
I would like to pop out the existing plate - wire up the new switch and then pop it back into the panel
Any news on the part number....
16-10-2007, 09:10 PM
Repco does a Narva brand illuminated switch that is a real close fit.
16-10-2007, 09:21 PM
Here is the Link to Navra info
63026BL Blister Pack
Off/On Rocker Switch with Red L.E.D
and Driving Lamp Symbol
DPST, push-fit design with 6.3mm push-on
Amperage rating 20A for use at 12V only
Mounting opening 34.5 x 20mm
Not sure of the fit - ie the dimensions for the prado switch blanks... but worth look!
16-10-2007, 09:22 PM
That is a cole hersee rocker switch from coventry auto's number :58328-55 the cost was $14.00, it looks like it will fit perfectly.
I actually purchased the green one as well, wasnt to sure which colour to install. Will probably install the green if you want the other............
I got a part number off Toyota (finally) for "rear fog light switch" which will fit
perfectly. Off LH drive vehicle. Is a special order from Japan, will take 3-5 weeks and costs $118.00 part number is 8416533040
I have also spoken with a "grey" importer. I emailed him a picture of the switch panel near the ignition and explained the type of switch we are looking for. He is going to ask his contact in Japan to see if he can source genuine switches for us.
The guy from ARB reckons they have tried the "genuine fog light switch" with the IPF 900XS and says it doesnt work...............
Any further info just ask.
17-10-2007, 08:56 AM
Guys, I have pulled apart one of those IPF "mouse" switches and there is a small circuit board inside with a couple of components. I think from memory that they are only to reduce the voltage so that the coloured LED's will work properly, however I am not sure what the voltage is that is sent out to the Spotty relay under the bonnet. Also the wires within the cable running to the switch are very fine and may not be able to supply sufficient current to drive the incandescant bulb in replacement switches which could be the reason the switches dont appear to work. Just something to think about :)
17-10-2007, 09:59 AM
Sounds like carp to me. I havent come across an install in 24 years that we havent been able to retrofit switches.
Glad you found the part number for the switch. There is also a front spot switch avaliable, its just a matter of finding the part number (USA version again) Maybe Our US mate can help :wink: :wink: :wink:
17-10-2007, 11:43 AM
Just a thought guys, stick the switch up under the dash out of sight altogether, why would you ever want HiBeam without driving lights ? I have always run my driving lights without a switch for this reason, whenever HiBeam is on so are the driving lights. Not sure exactly on the rego issues if there is any ? but in all the years I have done it no one doing a roadworthy has commented on it. The ARB loom is overly complex and unneccesary, they are a bit of a hassle for the installers to change the swich easily, With my ARB loom I ended up just tossing it aside and using a quality relay and wired it without a switch.
Just my 2 cents worth though :)
17-10-2007, 12:49 PM
Speedy, by law you have to be able to switch off your driving lights independantly of the high beam. I think this is in case the relay fails and they stay on. :shock:
Applies in Tassie not sure about other states but I guess its an ADR?
17-10-2007, 01:50 PM
same law in qld...
17-10-2007, 03:04 PM
definately the law in QLD. Had police pull me up several times in different vehicles checking my vehicle for roadworthy. It was one of the things they checked.
Had Dept of Transport do the same. - I thought they were national too.
Also had mechanic check this before issuing a roadworthy certificate.
17-10-2007, 06:23 PM
I failed a RWC back in the 70's cause my spotties were wire to the dip switch ..... gee remember them....... showing my age now, but I was forced to put a seperate switch in.
20-10-2007, 10:57 AM
I put mine in out of the way and you hardly know it is there. I will probably only turn it on/off when the law asks so I don't need an accessable spot.
20-10-2007, 11:04 AM
Thanks for the replies guys. Plucker looks good. The ARB Capalaba boys did a nice job of the install, looks good, very professional.
They would not install the aftermarket switch for me, so we agreed that the IPF switch would be left "on" and work with normal high beam selection.
For now the mouse switch is secured under the dash out of the way.
Will post some pictures shortly.
20-10-2007, 11:23 AM
Here are some pics.
Havent had a chance to use them yet or adjust as required............ hopefully soon.
Need to find something to hold the "tube" in place behind the light itself, any suggestions except electrical tape???
20-10-2007, 11:54 AM
DarkHorse you coud try these stuck on with 3M tape.
The bar and lights look great DarkHorse.
20-10-2007, 03:09 PM
DarkHorse you may want to consider drilling some holes in you bull bar for the wiring to go through.
As with the way you have it just going under the bonnet, when you are driving and the body is moving on its mounts it starts to rub and wear away the protective sheathing on the wire, and it also wears away the bar.
20-10-2007, 04:28 PM
The clear covers look great Rob. I might get some for mine for travelling. Nice looking setup you have there. Welldone.
Where do you get those sticky things you pictured
20-10-2007, 06:51 PM
Im not trying to argue the point here but the ARB switch is only a very light duty switch which is definately not an "isolator" for the hot side of the relay, so if the relay was to " lock on" or " fuse" the switch would have no effect as it switches the coil not the actual contact or hot side of the relay, Im not sure what the law actually says about the switch but if you just put a toggle switch in series with the coil, so the switch only switches low current eg the Hibeam trigger, yes it would isolate the coil but so does dipping to low beam, I have come across a relay in the past that "fused" causing it to lock on as the contacts actually burnt together in this situation the isolator switch would do nothing, the only way to isolate the driving lights from a " fused" relay would be to have the isolator on the "hot" side of the relay, This im almost positive is not how driving light kits off the shelf instructions show, im sure they switch the coil.
You can tell me to shove off if you like :D
20-10-2007, 07:17 PM
Could you just leave the mouse type switch on and hidden, and wire in a seperate switch??
You can tell me to shove off if you like :D hehe
20-10-2007, 10:51 PM
Speedcom you are correct in saying that the switch is on the coil side of the relay.
I have had the relay lock on whilst driving and dipping the lights. The oncoming car was cranky but nothing I could do. Pulled over and tapped the relay and it unlatched.
If you feel the need, you can put a switch on the light side although it will have to be rated pretty high. 130W spotties draw over 10 amps which is far greater than the common switch. That is why the relay is in place as it would only draw milliamps.
26-11-2010, 02:47 PM
Nice spots, How about using heat shrink to cover the remaining wire?? If you put a small zip tie around the wire (spotlight end) this will give the heat shrink something to mold over so it won't work it's way back and the ribbed conduit should keep it fixed at that end (there is even a heatshrink with a glue compund inside so when you heat it it will bond regardless.
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